cobblers Posted June 18, 2017 Posted June 18, 2017 They must be worth a decent bit by the way my (plumber) mates face lit up when I said he could have mine. egg 1
gm Posted June 18, 2017 Posted June 18, 2017 sounds promising - the replacement cost me plenty so anything I can get back is a bonus. cheers all
DodgeRover Posted June 18, 2017 Posted June 18, 2017 is a knackered domestic hot water cylinder worth anything or should I just take it to the top ? it appears to be made of copper under the insulationAbout £3.20 a kilo
hairymel Posted June 18, 2017 Posted June 18, 2017 The problemee was suffering random unpredictable erections whilst riding buses and this was diagnosed as Diesel Penis, apparently a medically recognised malady caused by the particular vibrations of bus engines. HTH. this happened to a friend* almost every day on the school bus. very embarrassing at the time.
DodgeRover Posted June 18, 2017 Posted June 18, 2017 this happened to a friend* almost every day on the school bus. very embarrassing at the time.Bus Drivers Log is the medical term I believe
greengartside Posted June 18, 2017 Posted June 18, 2017 Just saying, hypothetically.... ....if a friend* of mine had a car with a knackered turbo at his home, would it be possible to ring the breakdown service and say the incident happened about half a mile from his* house after driving it back the distance home (the friend* has cover for any car, not specific to just one vehicle) and that he* would want it transported to his nearest garage of choice? Or isn't there a loophole for this kind of stuff? I've got a feeling I think there isn't...
cobblers Posted June 18, 2017 Posted June 18, 2017 People do that stuff all the time. The Moog and greengartside 2
bunglebus Posted June 19, 2017 Posted June 19, 2017 What was the last car officially sold in the UK which did not have any onboard computer/ECU?Don't know, but at must be around 1992 because everything with a cat must have some sort of ECU to adjust fueling using a lambada sensor. My '93 Reno 5 has an ECU somewhere (never found it), single point injection with just a lambda, MAP and a temp. sensor. No throttle position or air flow metering, even though the carb injector body is drilled and tapped for a throttle pot.I have no idea how it works it all out from so little info, but it does. egg 1
Lacquer Peel Posted June 19, 2017 Posted June 19, 2017 Some diesels did without ECUs into the new millennium, I'm going to take a stab at the TATA Safari for the last mechanically controlled diesel. bunglebus and egg 2
Lacquer Peel Posted June 19, 2017 Posted June 19, 2017 Oh and the microcars with garden tractor engines. egg, Ghosty and bunglebus 3
Disco Fever Posted June 19, 2017 Posted June 19, 2017 If I buy a car with a personal plate remaining on it, do I automatically own the plate with the car and no further shenanigans with the DVLA is required?
stephen01 Posted June 19, 2017 Posted June 19, 2017 If I buy a car with a personal plate remaining on it, do I automatically own the plate with the car and no further shenanigans with the DVLA is required? Yes,
DSdriver Posted June 19, 2017 Posted June 19, 2017 Unless the previous owner has informed you otherwise, frinstance that he is in the process of transferring it in which case the car will most likely resort to its original reg no providing that has not been reassigned. stephen01 and Nicola H 2
somewhatfoolish Posted June 19, 2017 Posted June 19, 2017 I prefer to pre-solder (tin) the wire ends, as this gives the screws something solid to clamp onto, and I then usually fill the screw block connector with Vaseline (I have a syringe full of the stuff specifically for the purpose) ..to keep moisture out. In my experience - they are very reliable connections. I have done the same before now but it is a non-kosher thing to do; the solder will flow over time and the wire becomes loose.
MorrisItalSLX Posted June 20, 2017 Posted June 20, 2017 Something I have been wondering for a while now, What is a HBOL? I have been able to decipher most of the acronyms here but I just cant get this one Cheers
Bfg Posted June 20, 2017 Posted June 20, 2017 .I didn't realise it was specific to one publisher ! tooSavvy 1
wuvvum Posted June 24, 2017 Posted June 24, 2017 2000 Golf Mk4 TDI 115 bhp. Running fine at town speeds but as soon as it goes over 50 it heats up (to about 110 degrees) and the heater blows cold. Plenty of water in it and doesn't seem to be using any. Possible diagnoses?
cobblers Posted June 24, 2017 Posted June 24, 2017 Water pump impeller dropped off? I think it was common on VAG of that era. Sigmund Fraud 1
Sigmund Fraud Posted June 24, 2017 Posted June 24, 2017 2000 Golf Mk4 TDI 115 bhp. Running fine at town speeds but as soon as it goes over 50 it heats up (to about 110 degrees) and the heater blows cold. Plenty of water in it and doesn't seem to be using any. Possible diagnoses? Do those have a plastic water pump impeller ? Edit : great* minds think alike, cobblers !
DeeJay Posted June 24, 2017 Posted June 24, 2017 Is it that thing that pumps the water? (I haven't a clue, just joining in). The Moog 1
wuvvum Posted June 24, 2017 Posted June 24, 2017 I did wonder about the water pump, but it seems to be speed-dependent rather than rev-dependent - you can sit at 35 in 3rd at 2500 rpm and it's fine, but at 60 in 6th at less than 2000 rpm it heats up.
twosmoke300 Posted June 24, 2017 Posted June 24, 2017 Deffo water pump . Problem is when you take it out it will have cooled down and locked itself back on the shaft again
wuvvum Posted June 24, 2017 Posted June 24, 2017 OK. Well that's probably going to render it scrap then given that the water pump is cambelt driven, so with that and the DMF being on its way out it's probably not worth doing. Would it be worth bodging in one of those secondary electric water pumps that Sharans had, or are they not powerful enough to be any use?
Sigmund Fraud Posted June 24, 2017 Posted June 24, 2017 If you're going to go into the whole trouble of bodging in a second water pump, you might as well replace the normal one. If the rest of the car is falling apart, just get a new water pump and belt, re-using tensioner and idler (unless their bearings are obviously borked). £50 (and most of a Saturday) will see you back on the road.
wuvvum Posted June 24, 2017 Posted June 24, 2017 Only problem with that is I really don't trust myself around cambelts...
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