Ask a Shiter

[AlabamaShrimp]

Anyone know hos oil pressure gauges work?

 

The Frontera one was all over the place, oil changed settled it down but now it's shooting back up again. It's got a small leak on the top of the engine but it isn't low on oil.

[Guest Hooli]

Take the switch out the block N see if it's clean. It's just a spring loaded diaphragm or something like that inside, but as it's fed by a small hole it's easy for them to get blocked due to dirty old oil.

[nacho man]

Picking my car up from the painters friday. Will i be able to wash it/ wax it etc straight away? Its had the front end done to make minty fresh. Will it pick up stonechips easier etc for a while? whats the best way to protect it, look after it???

[AlabamaShrimp]

Take the switch out the block N see if it's clean. It's just a spring loaded diaphragm or something like that inside, but as it's fed by a small hole it's easy for them to get blocked due to dirty old oil.

Thank you, I will locate and clean. Never had a car with one before so know sod all about em.

[maxpower]

Anyone know which insurance company is best for a jap import?...tried conventional companies but they don't have the model of the car i want on their list?

[Snipes]

Anyone know which insurance company is best for a jap import?...tried conventional companies but they don't have the model of the car i want on their list?

 

Go to WHSmiths and have a naughty leaf through the back of Japanese Performance or whatever. 

[Guest Hooli]

Thank you, I will locate and clean. Never had a car with one before so know sod all about em.

 

The ones I've seen look the same as the oil pressure switch for the warning light.

[Sigmund Fraud]

Gents, what is the AS opinion on the VAG 1400 TDi ? I know it's the amputee brother of the 1900 TDi, but is it anywhere as strong/economical ? Any common faults ?

[M'coli]

Gents, what is the AS opinion on the VAG 1400 TDi ? I know it's the amputee brother of the 1900 TDi, but is it anywhere as strong/economical ? Any common faults ?

^^^ Aye, it's attached to something from the VAG group...

[Sigmund Fraud]

VAG SHITE 

[The Moog]

Chatting to a friend tonight who said she has a 1974 Capri 2000gt - 1 owner to sell for father in law.

 

Any idea of how much it may be worth?

[DeeJay]

Squillions.

[Matt]

Some wiring questions...

 

Anyone know what this kind of connection is called, if they are available for purchase or if there are better options available? This is out of a Suzuki Swift wiring loom but I could actually do with something that puts two or three wires into one. A Y shaped crimp connector would be great but I can't actually find something like that.

 

 

Is there any reliable way to work out the gauge of a wire? I've got loads kicking around from various sources from VW audio wiring, Suzuki wiring loom to stuff removed from dead appliances (iron, vacuum cleaner etc).

[Dippy]

Its an uninsulated butt connector with too many wires shaggeg into it

[egg]

What was the last car officially sold in the UK which did not have any onboard computer/ECU?

[NorfolkNWeigh]

Chatting to a friend tonight who said she has a 1974 Capri 2000gt - 1 owner to sell for father in law.

Any idea of how much it may be worth?

These are quite rare because they were a bit of an oddity, when the Mk1 facelift came along in 73 the 1600 Kent engine was replaced by the Pinto. Naturally the 1600GT got a twin choke and a few extra horses.

The logical thing to do with the V4 would obviously to bin it and drop the 2.0 Pinto into the 2000GT- Ford didn't , fuck knows why.

2000GT Pintos didn't appear ( in the UK at least) until the Mk2.

As a Ford licker in my youth I once created my ideal Capri a Facelift 1600GT with a 2.0 Pinto and the twin headlights from a GXL- I loved it, as did whoever nicked it!

 

As to value , may I refer you to DeeJay's accurate assessment - the V4ness might make it more or less desirable- you're welcome.

[Matt]

too many wires shaggeg into it

 

Special Suzuki build quality.

[Bfg]

Some wiring questions...

 

Anyone know what this kind of connection is called, if they are available for purchase or if there are better options available? This is out of a Suzuki Swift wiring loom but I could actually do with something that puts two or three wires into one. A Y shaped crimp connector would be great but I can't actually find something like that.

 

 

Is there any reliable way to work out the gauge of a wire? I've got loads kicking around from various sources from VW audio wiring, Suzuki wiring loom to stuff removed from dead appliances (iron, vacuum cleaner etc).

 

As long as the wiring isn't directly exposed to the elements I'd suggest by far the easiest is to use a screw block connector, aka 'cheese block', aka 'chocolate block' (..as they used to be made in brown Bakelite), aka 'terminal block' or 'terminal strip' - see < here >.  They come in different sizes, and are dirt cheap.  I often use them on my bikes (within the electrical box, so out of the weather).  They are handy if for example wires may sometime need to be feed back through a grommet, when the connectors are physically too big.

 

On my Sunbeam motorcycles ; the wires to the rear mudguard lamp are such a situation. Rather than have a connector block outside in the wet ..it's better to a screw-block connector inside the bike's electrical box. When necessary those wires then very easily pull through the small grommet.    

 

Of course most screw block connectors also have a through hole inbetween the connectors, and are otherwise shaped that zip ties can be used. I have also used a wrap of velcro around them - either way these blocks can easily be securely fastened to the vehicle.

 

I prefer to pre-solder (tin) the wire ends, as this gives the screws something solid to clamp onto, and I then usually fill the screw block connector with Vaseline (I have a syringe full of the stuff specifically for the purpose) ..to keep moisture out.   In my experience - they are very reliable connections..

 

no soldering iron ? ..then try < this >.

 

 

Wire gauge might be reliably assessed by the fuse rating on your vehicle and seeing what size wires go to that fuse.

 

As a guide though :

  9/0.30 = 0.65mm²,   5.75A - cable OD 2.3mm:  Side/tail lamps, indicators etc.

 

14/0.30 = 1.0mm²,   8.75A. cable OD 2.6mm: Side/tail lamps, indicators, fog lamps, general wiring.

 

28/0.30 = 2.0mm²,  17.5A - cable OD 3.3mm: Head lamps, wipers, screen heaters, petrol pumps, etc.

 

44/0.30 = 3.0mm²,  27.5A - cable OD 3.7mm: Charging circuits, main feeds.

 

65/0.30 = 4.5mm²,   35A - cable OD 5.0mm: Heavy duty charge circuits, alternator feeds.

 

Cable descriptions are known by the number / size of cable strands, and/or the cross-sectional area of the wire conductor (all the strands together).  For example 14 / 0.30 refers to 14 strands of 0.30mm diameter cable giving a total cable conductor area of 1.0mm².   Cable OD (outside diameter) is of course an approximation ..depending on how thick the plastic insulator is from any supplier.   Fuse rating is for continuous (as most auto fuses are rated), where their surge loading (for short periods of time) will be more. 

 

Hope that's helpful

Bfg  

[Guest Hooli]

If you use a chocy block then make sure it's supported. The weight of it swinging around on the wires will snap them after a while. My average when wiring stereos like that was 18months before problems.

[twosmoke300]

If you use a chocolate block make sure that the rope you use to hang yourself out of shame is strong enough !

[Richard]

.

[The Moog]

These are quite rare because they were a bit of an oddity, when the Mk1 facelift came along in 73 the 1600 Kent engine was replaced by the Pinto. Naturally the 1600GT got a twin choke and a few extra horses.

The logical thing to do with the V4 would obviously to bin it and drop the 2.0 Pinto into the 2000GT- Ford didn't , fuck knows why. .

Got the reg.

 

It is. 2.0 pinto in it

 

[Matt]

As long as the wiring isn't directly exposed to the elements I'd suggest by far the easiest is to use a screw block connector, aka 'cheese block', aka 'chocolate block' (..as they used to be made in brown Bakelite), aka 'terminal block' or 'terminal strip' - see < here >.  They come in different sizes, and are dirt cheap.  I often use them on my bikes (within the electrical box, so out of the weather).  They are handy if for example wires may sometime need to be feed through a grommet, when the connectors are physically too big.   

 

I prefer to pre-solder (tin) the wire ends, as this gives the screws something solid to clamp onto, and I then usually fill the screw block connector with Vaseline (I have a syringe full of the stuff specifically for the purpose) ..to keep moisture out.   In my experience - they are very reliable connections..

 

no soldering iron ? ..then try < this >.

 

 

Wire gauge might be reliably assessed by the fuse rating on your vehicle and seeing what size wires go to that fuse.

 

As a guide though :

  9/0.30 = 0.65mm²,   5.75A - cable OD 2.3mm:  Side/tail lamps, indicators etc.

 

14/0.30 = 1.0mm²,   8.75A. cable OD 2.6mm: Side/tail lamps, indicators, fog lamps, general wiring.

 

28/0.30 = 2.0mm²,  17.5A - cable OD 3.3mm: Head lamps, wipers, screen heaters, petrol pumps, etc.

 

44/0.30 = 3.0mm²,  27.5A - cable OD 3.7mm: Charging circuits, main feeds.

 

65/0.30 = 4.5mm²,   35A - cable OD 5.0mm: Heavy duty charge circuits, alternator feeds.

 

Cable descriptions are known by the number / size of cable strands, and/or the cross-sectional area of the wire conductor (all the strands together).  For example 14 / 0.30 refers to 14 strands of 0.30mm diameter cable giving a total cable conductor area of 1.0mm².   Cable OD (outside diameter) is of course an approximation ..depending on how thick the plastic insulator is from any supplier.   Fuse rating is for continuous (as most auto fuses are rated), where their surge loading (for short periods of time) will be more. 

 

Hope that's helpful

Bfg  

 

 

If you use a chocy block then make sure it's supported. The weight of it swinging around on the wires will snap them after a while. My average when wiring stereos like that was 18months before problems.

 

 

If you use a chocolate block make sure that the rope you use to hang yourself out of shame is strong enough !

 

 

If you must use chocolate block connectors it's best to use bootlace ferrules on the wires, in fact you should really use bootlace ferrules with any screw connector.

 

I won't be using choc blocks. I don't think it's the done thing really and the connection is going to be in the engine compartment anyway. Not keen on scotch blocks either. What I really need is one of these but the only place I can get them is in the USA with minimum order of £15 plus shipping.

 

 

(No, not three eyelets and a bolt!)

[Guest Hooli]

Just go up a size. If you need red crimps, get a blue & two wires fit in. Fold the third in half for the other end to make it thicker.

[Timewaster]

Scotchlocks are the work of Satan and the pikies connector of choice.

[NorfolkNWeigh]

Got the reg.

It is. 2.0 pinto in it

Ah yes , for some reason I assumed Mk1 Facelift on 74.

Danthecapriman is the man for Capri2 values , he'll hope it's worth more than he's spending on his!

[JeeExEll]

I won't be using choc blocks. I don't think it's the done thing really and the connection is going to be in the engine compartment anyway. Not keen on scotch blocks either. What I really need is one of these but the only place I can get them is in the USA with minimum order of £15 plus shipping.

 

 

(No, not three eyelets and a bolt!)

Red crimps are designed for 1.5mm2 stranded

Blue crimps are for 2.5mm2

Yellow crimps are for 6.0mm2.

 

The oil industry use these. To be used with a proper sprung ratchet- crimper (maybe about £15 from Draper, NOT a bootlace crimper or a combined stripper basic Halfords jobbie). Crimps available in all sorts of terminations (rings various sizes, straight-through insulated, pins suitable for screwed terminal blocks, male and female spades, piggyback-spades, forks, etc), good enough for oil rigs anyway. Check out the range available, I have a large biscuit tin full of the feckers all mixed, you don't need a star-type one in your pic. When you crimp push the cable insulation right into the plastic body of the crimp. Crimp once over the metal joint in the crimp, then I crimp once again back a bit over the plastic body and the cable insulation.

 

Some heatshrink is good too, depending on location of the joint. Use the Missus' hairdrier.

Pic of crimper type to follow.

 

Edit - the ratchet crimper you need is Draper 35574, around £22 inc vat from Amazon but local hardware stores might have them for less. Quick spray of wd40 now and again and it'll last forever.

[Guest Hooli]

Oh yes heatshrink. that makes it look right posh & is great for keeping moisture out.

 

I have a feeling soldering is banned on military stuff & it's all crimped.

[DodgeRover]

Toolstation did those crimpers for a bit less

[JeeExEll]

Oh yes heatshrink. that makes it look right posh & is great for keeping moisture out.

 

I have a feeling soldering is banned on military stuff & it's all crimped.

Soldering also fine if done properly and heatshrunk. Personal preference is for crimps but each to their own. Some oil industry connections use similar type of crimps but without the coloured plastic collar, you crimp the cable then solder it too, then heatshrink it. A bit overkill on car wiring but just saying . . .

 

Invest in a ratchet crimper! Kwallity!!:-