Project The Austin 2dr 1100 story - Part IV - Now in sharleys hands

[PhilA]

Glad you have been able to make good use of them.

 

Phil

[plasticvandan]

It is true when people say that to restore one car you need space for three.I've never had a gayrage but when I was still living at the family home (dad left and now my mum's dead,so it's now my sister's house,grrr) I had a large wooden workshop that backed on to a carport,this worked well enough for most jobs,I also had the critical second shed for putting all the crap you didn't want in the work area in.

[SiC]

This weekend was supposed to be dedicated to 1100 fettling. Unfortunately despite being forecast to be a nice day yesterday, it was a total washout from midday.

 

I did have a go cleaning the engine down. I think I need stronger degreaser. Using Gunk but to be honest it's pretty crap. Most of the dirt I got off was with a hose pipe and a scrubbing brush.

 

 

Does look a fair bit cleaner though. I do want to paint it. Any suggestions on paint? I guess I need to give it a much better scrub before the paint will adhere?

[Squire_Dawson]

These engines would've been painted black. It's not strictly necessary to paint but it does look nice - for a few months. You can get proprietary brands of engine paint which are obviously oil and heat resistant.

 

Now would be a good time to replace the tappet chest gaskets - use the rubber ones instead of cork - and new 'O' rings for the bolts if needed.

[SiC]

Today was much better weather wise.

 

I got on with attaching the bottom of the sill to the membrane. I did this by plug welding the bottom. Forgot to take a picture before throwing paint on, but you get the idea. Probably run a bead along the bottom too just to be 100% on it.

 

Penetration looks ok? I do expect it to be sticking more out than it does, but I guess it's fused through looking at it? Surface isn't flat or smooth anymore.

 

Also ran PU along the top of the door sill area. Again I forgot to take a picture of this, so have one with tape stuck on it!

 

I got it all lovely and smooth, but I then put my finger on it and dented it. I've put paint on it already but to be honest it's cracking the paint so I suspect it hasn't cured fully.

 

 

Attached the back part of the sill to the rear side panel. Ground back all the welds as much as I dare. I think this will need crap tonnes of filler on it to make it half decent looking. That's ok, as it was like that before!

 

The back bit was always going to be an awkward piece. This is how the sill came.

 

Luckily I had pre-measured where to cut on the old sill before putting the new sill on against it. So after cutting it out from the old sill, it fitted quite well.

 

This still left a hole. I did contemplate just stuffing full of filler later, however I know that wouldn't pass on here. I'd only regret it when it rusts out the rest after a year or two.

 

Stuffed a bit of metal off-cut in and welded it up. Not terribly tidy again, however I need to get a replacement arch profile for the rest of the arch anyway. Hopefully it'll be big enough that I can cover this bit too. It's solid metal at least though.

 

A bit prettier after putting paint on it.

 

Just need to box off the front section of the sill and then get the closing panel on. Then need to figure what the hell I'm going to do trying to fix/remove those blasted captive door bolt plate.

[junkyarddog]

Good progress!

[purplebargeken]

You are really getting that welder under control now mate, bloody good progress.

[Arthur Foxhake]

Making me want a new welder man.

Impressed with the progress and how quickly you've tackled some complicated issues.

You can bring your new skills up here and help me with this bloody Mercedes when you're done, I'm sure you'll be finished before me at this rate!

[SiC]

These engines would've been painted black. It's not strictly necessary to paint but it does look nice - for a few months. You can get proprietary brands of engine paint which are obviously oil and heat resistant.

 

I think it's a Gold Seal unit. I'll check the engine plate later but it certainly has bits of gold still on it. Of course knowing what this car is like, it could be a whole mix of bits from other engines!

 

Now would be a good time to replace the tappet chest gaskets - use the rubber ones instead of cork - and new 'O' rings for the bolts if needed.

I'm pondering buying a gasket set and replacing replacing most of them (except head gasket). Reading through catsinthewelder thread it appears he found bits of what looked like gear teeth in the oil. This makes me tempted to split the engine and 'box. I guess there isn't too much risk doing that?

[Squire_Dawson]

You would know about it if a gear was missing a tooth... the magnet in the sump plug collects all the swarf from the shared engine/gearbox/differential oil. Personally I would not split them if it was running fine. You are also wise to leave the cylinder head on, hopefully this will never have to come off.

 

On these OHV engines the main oil leaks are the result of defective rocker cover and tappet chest gaskets. They are generally oil-tight in transverse form.

[SiC]

Making me want a new welder man.

Impressed with the progress and how quickly you've tackled some complicated issues.

You can bring your new skills up here and help me with this bloody Mercedes when you're done, I'm sure you'll be finished before me at this rate!

Funny you should say that, when I was on my side busy getting those plug welds in I started pondering. Despite it costing a fair old whack, I'm extremely pleased with the welding set. A few niggles like I wish the feed mechanism was a bit stronger (sometimes slips, especially with the 4m torch or if the liner is bent) and I find I have to often turn up the wick. I reckon the Esab Rebel or the Kemppi unit would be better, especially as there isn't a huge price difference between them new. However I got this for £450, far cheaper than those go second hand.

 

If I fixed my cheapy Cosmo/SIP unit, I don't think I'd have got anywhere near as far as I have. Not least that the GYS unit happily runs down to 20a and lower. Some of the really thin stuff I was blowing holes in, I turned down the machine lower and it was busy working away at 18A - which stopped it making holes.

 

I honestly can say the welding bit has been very straightforward. Except I'm never sure if the penetration is enough, as the machine can happily maintain the arc, even if it's just piling material on top of itself. I don't think the fact I find it easy is because it's me, more that the machine is just very good. Reminds me a lot of electronics soldering. Cheap kit makes it feel blimming difficult, then using good kit suddenly makes you feel like a pro.

 

My only regret is not going for the bigger gas bottle. I'm a third the way through this new bottle already! I did try turning the regulator down more, but the wind kept blowing away the shielding gas as it was.

[DodgeRover]

Those plug welds look fine to me, if you are concerned about penetration try wack a screwdriver between the panels and see if you can break the weld.

All this going over and seam welding bits you'll be strengthening the shell to the point at which you'll be inelligible for some motorsports as you'll have an unfair advantage!

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

MOT soon..............

[Squire_Dawson]

MOT soon..............

 

No. Not any more.

[SiC]

Those plug welds look fine to me, if you are concerned about penetration try wack a screwdriver between the panels and see if you can break the weld.

All this going over and seam welding bits you'll be strengthening the shell to the point at which you'll be inelligible for some motorsports as you'll have an unfair advantage!

Good idea, I'll give it a go. I really want to make sure it's all ok, as it's not a job I'll want to do again once painted.

 

Speaking of motorsports, I was thinking this would be a great car for me to have a go at a Autotest with.

 

There is even an active club near me that frequently does them: https://bristolpegasus.com/club-events/autotests-autosolos/

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

 once painted.

 

 

 

 

Any thoughts on that? It'd be worth getting a quote for a semi decent blow over in 2-pack if you do the prep.

[SiC]

 

 

You would know about it if a gear was missing a tooth... the magnet in the sump plug collects all the swarf from the shared engine/gearbox/differential oil. Personally I would not split them if it was running fine. You are also wise to leave the cylinder head on, hopefully this will never have to come off.

 

On these OHV engines the main oil leaks are the result of defective rocker cover and tappet chest gaskets. They are generally oil-tight in transverse form.

This is the post that makes me think I should:

http://autoshite.com/topic/9247-the-purple-peril-and-other-dreadful-cars-i-need-to-fix/?p=538339

 

Catsinthewelder was the last person to have this properly on the road and will know what it was like through the gears. Vulgalour only managed to run it in a half circle because the clutch is siezed. The clutch was replaced before catsinthewelder (by sharley also on this thread), so at least I don't need to replace it (hopefully). Still need to get a proper clutch pulling tool.

 

I'll also inspect the oil pump once the clutch is free as cats said the oil pressure light came on when using it. I think the switch was replaced, but that should be replaced by the NOS Smiths electronic gauge.

 

MOT soon..............

No. Not any more.

It's a big target of mine to get it through an MOT.

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

 

 

I'll also inspect the oil pump once the clutch is free 

 

 

Not without cutting a big hole in the transfer case you won't. Oil pump is engine and box out.  I'd just sort the clutch, do an oil/filter change and set the idle at 800 rpm. 

[SiC]

Any thoughts on that? It'd be worth getting a quote for a semi decent blow over in 2-pack if you do the prep.

Depends entirely on money and how much it'll be. Don't forget I'm down in expensive Sarf. We're also planning to move house and that's rather pricey endeavour.

 

Not without cutting a big hole in the transfer case you won't. Oil pump is engine and box out. I'd just sort the clutch, do an oil/filter change and set the idle at 800 rpm.

The engine and box is out! Was one of the first things I did.

 

I thought the oil pump was behind the clutch after that's removed and the casing around it?

[Squire_Dawson]

 

It's a big target of mine to get it through an MOT.

 

What on Earth for? You're seeing to the stuff which finished 99% of these cars off, i.e. rust.

 

I'll read through Cat's thread. As a rule, the less you disturb things the better mechanically as it only upsets the apple cart unless there is a fault. I can guarantee that low oil pressure will be serious engine wear if anything, but I thought it was running well without smoke. A new oil pump is pointless without new engine bearings and a crankshaft appraisal, piston rings &c. In any case the oil pump can supply a much greater volume than would be needed by ordinary engine wear. The oil pressure switch was rated in single-figure PSI for these - check it's correct as it could be the wrong or a faulty switch. The idling oil pressure is insignificant but I know you get paranoid about such things.

 

In all honesty I would just leave well alone and run it for a few hundred miles until you know its performance and oil consumption. Unless neglected these engines are bulletproof.

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

Depends entirely on money and how much it'll be. Don't forget I'm down in expensive Sarf. We're also planning to move house and that's rather pricey endeavour.

 

The engine and box is out! Was one of the first things I did.

 

I thought the oil pump was behind the clutch after that's removed and the casing around it?

 

 

No. The transfer casing has to come off to get to the pump. 

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

Like this - here, the gasket is being fitted.

 

[SiC]

I'll read through Cat's thread. As a rule, the less you disturb things the better mechanically as it only upsets the apple cart unless there is a fault. I can guarantee that low oil pressure will be serious engine wear if anything, but I thought it was running well without smoke. A new oil pump is pointless without new engine bearings and a crankshaft appraisal, piston rings &c. In any case the oil pump can supply a much greater volume than would be needed by ordinary engine wear. The oil pressure switch was rated in single-figure PSI for these - check it's correct as it could be the wrong or a faulty switch. The idling oil pressure is insignificant but I know you get paranoid about such things.

 

In all honesty I would just leave well alone and run it for a few hundred miles until you know its performance and oil consumption. Unless neglected these engines are bulletproof.

Skip to 3:20 minutes to see it running - first bit is me rambling on checking stuff.

[Video]

 

Looking back at that video, the oil pressure light appears to go out. I think the left yellow light is the alternator light as it goes out after the ignition is switched off. So the right yellow light must be the oil pressure light. Both go out when running.

 

My intention was to inspect it as I was nearly there anyway once the clutch is off & out?

[SiC]

Like this - here, the gasket is being fitted.

 

maxresdefault.jpg

Yeah its the big metal bit that the clutch is in needs to come off then.

From reading up, it appears getting the clutch out is going to be the biggest fight. Especially as it seems to be siezed in there and why it doesn't disengage.

[vulgalour]

For degreasing don't bother with Gunk, they did something to it and now it's rubbish.  A better product is Jizer, I've been amazed at what that can shift if you decant some into a pot and then scrub it about the oily bits with a pan brush.  For a more budget conscious approach, oven cleaner (Mr Muscle is pretty good) is suitable too.

 

I'm disappointed that those sill panels weren't as complete or correct as I thought they were.  You've turned that around, all the same, and done a cracking job in a fairly short span of time, certainly your welder seems to give you less grief than the one I've been fighting with for the past few years.

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

The oil pump will be okay, just clean up the pressure relief valve and fit a new spring. 

[SiC]

The oil pump will be okay, just clean up the pressure relief valve and fit a new spring.

I already did that yesterday. Forgot to measure the length of the spring though.

 

Not that concerned about the oil pressure tbh. More that as the engine is out of the car it's an ideal opportunity to give it a good look over. I'd rather find something now and fix it while its out, than having to pull it out again because something has cropped up that I could have found while it was on the stand.

 

 

Also is something fun to fiddle with.

[SiC]

For degreasing don't bother with Gunk, they did something to it and now it's rubbish. A better product is Jizer, I've been amazed at what that can shift if you decant some into a pot and then scrub it about the oily bits with a pan brush. For a more budget conscious approach, oven cleaner (Mr Muscle is pretty good) is suitable too.

 

I'm disappointed that those sill panels weren't as complete or correct as I thought they were. You've turned that around, all the same, and done a cracking job in a fairly short span of time, certainly your welder seems to give you less grief than the one I've been fighting with for the past few years.

Mr Muscle oven cleaner is nasty stuff. Chemical burns territory in a can.

 

I only found out Gunk is Junk just after I bought it. I'll keep it for cleaning down my bike. At least it's less likely to strip the paint off it.

 

Jizer is mightly expensive. I've been tempted to get some of this stuff instead: https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-heavy-duty-degreaser-5ltr/88668

Seems to have mostly good reviews.

 

Maybe your welder just needs a good tune up with new rollers, wire liner and tip?

[vulgalour]

The welder I'm using needs exorcising, or something.  It has a mind of its own.  Some days it welds beautifully, other days it'll barely weld at all, and it matters not what you do with any of it.  It's probably built from bits of old P6.

[They_all_do_that_sir]

Mr Muscle oven cleaner is nasty stuff. Chemical burns territory in a can.

 

I only found out Gunk is Junk just after I bought it. I'll keep it for cleaning down my bike. At least it's less likely to strip the paint off it.

 

Jizer is mightly expensive. I've been tempted to get some of this stuff instead: https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-heavy-duty-degreaser-5ltr/88668

Seems to have mostly good reviews.

 

Maybe your welder just needs a good tune up with new rollers, wire liner and tip?

My local factors sell this, and I've found it to be spot on:

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Comma-HYP5L-Hyperclean-Engine-Degreaser/dp/B003BPR9KA

 

Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk