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dozeydustman

1999 Corolla of Pleasure - bat flattery

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1 hour ago, 500tops said:

My 164,000 mile 1998 Starlet is still on its original exhaust and clutch. For cheap, reliable motoring, 90s Toyotas are hard to beat.

Our one's clutch went at 160-something thousand. Was the original as well.

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On 6/16/2019 at 9:20 PM, MikeR said:

wrong type of bulb been put back in a holder .....  ie a single filament bulb in a twin filament holder , they are not suppost to fit but ....

some one I know did this and caused a  similar   problem ...... 

in a mk1 carlton pressing brake pedal hard would keep engine running when key turned off- all due to single in twin hole!

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On 9/21/2019 at 9:05 AM, Snipes said:

The only pictures we've seen of this have been close ups of the exhaust and it's heat shield. 

 

Jus' sayin' like. 

Go to start of this thread where I install the dash cam for its full lovelyness

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Pair of Avon ZV7s fitted to this today having picked up 3 nails in one tyre. Spare was dated 2001 so the undamaged front tyre was put on this rim.

The droplinks now look very tired and the strut tops have started to rattle, so I will have a few jobs to do before the ticket runs out by the sounds of it. I'm still after a nice driver's side front wing so I can get her in smarter shape than she is. Failing that a pattern part and save for respray of whole car will have to suffice.

Current list of jobs:

  1. replace o/s/f wing
  2. regas air con & change pollen filter
  3. Change water pump & flush out cooling system.
  4. thoroughly clean interior.
  5. save up for respray? unless I can get one in the same metallic blue
  6. Unseize track rod ends for purposes of wheel alignment and future replacement.
  7. Change drop links and strut tops
  8. Locate another set of good alloy wheels (original Toyota) or save up for refurbishment of current set of wolfies.
  9. New exhaust system - the current 20 y/o system is getting more and more rattly.

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May be easier to replace the whole inner and outer track rod as a complete assembly if they're seized badly enough. I don't recall front TREs seizing on Toyotas, though they always were on IS200s and rear toe adjusters on just about anything Toyota  (both adjustable rods and eccentric bolts) such as Supras, Celica GT4s and SW20 MR2s

 

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12 hours ago, Sir Snipes said:

May be easier to replace the whole inner and outer track rod as a complete assembly if they're seized badly enough. I don't recall front TREs seizing on Toyotas, though they always were on IS200s and rear toe adjusters on just about anything Toyota  (both adjustable rods and eccentric bolts) such as Supras, Celica GT4s and SW20 MR2s

 

Use loctite on inner track rods at the rack end or bad things happen 

No prizes for guessing how I know 

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Having been woken up at 5:15 to "Glen the car won't start" I awoke Mrs Dustman to get madam to work, 4 hours on charge has put enough life in the cheap lion battery fitted to it to start so I could investigate why it went flat.

Alternator is getting noisy. So is water pump. I have the latter, not the former so that's on the shopping list, though it's still pumping out a good 14.1 volts when first started and was at 14.0v after a 20 minute run up and down the A27 to Emsworth and back. Essential journey - checking to see if a key worker's car is ok. Voltage on return was a healthy 12.8v with everything off so another 20-30 minute run later when we pick madam up from work should see it fine, though I'll check the battery again before one of us picks her up.

Interior light was on as was door open light on the dash, all 4 doors and the boot shut firmly, but still on. That'll need looking at though halfway through my trip it went off, so I've got a dodgy or shorted out door switch, so interior light is now set to off. Will have to investigate which switch is iffy and replace in due course.

Also time to pull up last year's MoT certificate and rectify some of the advisories. The top end is ticking as well so I'm going to have to re-shim the valves I think. Once I've finished my garden project this car will get a service and when it goes for MoT they can re-gas the air con as well.

Still after a good o/s/f wing, preferably in Blurple, and going to attack the rust on the wheel arches this summer, I wanted to last year but with all the hoo-har that went on I didn't get round to it.

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The last of the engine service items for this and the Suzuki have arrived this evening (thermostat & pollen filter for this car) so services should be carried out this week, along with giving anything perishable a check.

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EEF5A3FB-157A-4ED3-8EF9-EC6647388F1D.thumb.png.3969ee5dbb61c0c877c8cd564f5131f1.png
 

Only advisory last year was a distortion on a wheel rim, but I don’t recall the drop links having been changed (which were and advisory from 2018), so I’ll have to rummage through the paperwork before I order a pair. I’m hoping the thermostat housing isn’t a sod to do, I doubt it’s ever been replaced and I cannot run the risk of madam not being able to get to work. Pretty sure it’s the stat as the car takes forever to warm up when it’s cool.

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13 hours ago, sgtberbatov said:

You could bring it to Halfrauds and have them check the battery, as it's for a key worker.

I think I have found the cause - the boot lid catch needs adjusting (I think), as sometimes even when the catch has caught and is firmly closed, the door open light comes on. Either that or the switch is dicky; if the latter I'll just disconnect it until I get a good replacement. It did it again when I went shopping yesterday. It's in use today as stepdaughter (madam) was called into work an hour ago as they were short staffed. Hopefully I'll get time to check this and service it later today if she's back before dinner time.

Since we've had the interior light switched to "off" there's been no signs of drained battery. It's a new(ish) battery with at least 2 year's guarantee left so if it is kaput it can go back! Also telling wife and madam to not open the boot should help.

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19 minutes ago, dozeydustman said:

I think I have found the cause - the boot lid catch needs adjusting (I think), as sometimes even when the catch has caught and is firmly closed, the door open light comes on. Either that or the switch is dicky; if the latter I'll just disconnect it until I get a good replacement. It did it again when I went shopping yesterday. It's in use today as stepdaughter (madam) was called into work an hour ago as they were short staffed. Hopefully I'll get time to check this and service it later today if she's back before dinner time.

Since we've had the interior light switched to "off" there's been no signs of drained battery. It's a new(ish) battery with at least 2 year's guarantee left so if it is kaput it can go back! Also telling wife and madam to not open the boot should help.

That's good! I'm glad you're on top of it. 

The interior light on my Corolla never ever works. And I only ever think to fix it during the winter when it's dark getting in and out of the damn thing!

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