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Posted

STREETWISES; contemporary reviews say the pezzer is the one to go for, because the (faster, more economical) diesel is a bit clattery. I don't mind clattery.

 

Is there any advantage to the petrol?

The petrol one probably drives a bit better because the K series is light and the L series is heavy but the L series is almost indestructible and goes like the clappers on boost in an R3.

L series for me.

  • Like 3
Posted

Anybody know how much of a job it is to change a starter motor on a c200 petrol merc? Its a 1999 model. Thanks

Posted

STREETWISES; contemporary reviews say the pezzer is the one to go for, because the (faster, more economical) diesel is a bit clattery. I don't mind clattery.

 

Is there any advantage to the petrol?

Cleaner, less stinky, less diesely.

Posted

Does anyone want about 150 litres of unfiltered veg ?

Could be as much as 200. 

  • Like 1
Posted

I found my petrol R3 200 to be better balanced and generally chuckable than the 2 litre petrol R8 I've got now but that could be the shorter wheelbase or far smaller mileage rather than the lighter engine.  I did find the K series powered car annoyingly buzzy above 50mph and crap on fuel, the R8 is no better on fuel but its usually travelling 20mph faster.

Posted

I've rather over enthusiastically tried to open the door of a Lancia Delta Integrale and snapped it. It is made of a flimsy plastic handle with a metal covering. Typical Fiat junk.

 

What is the strongest glue I can buy? Q Bond won't work on this. SIkaflex is probably too flexible. Any ideas? Or a cheap handle? Do any other Fiat items fit?

Posted

Gorilla Glue might but in all honesty I think a replacement is called for as I can't see any adhesive standing up to the wear it is going to have.

  • Like 2
Posted

Mercedes Vito with a crew cab in 114CDI flavour. 100,000 miles and clean.

 

If I’ve been offered it for £900 should I snap it the hell up? Anything significant to look for?

Posted

Mercedes Vito with a crew cab in 114CDI flavour. 100,000 miles and clean.

If I’ve been offered it for £900 should I snap it the hell up? Anything significant to look for?

Rust? Not sure about the newer ones but boy can they rust. I looked at them for a camper conversion but insurance costs were stupid compared to a Fiat or ford equivalent for some reason so may be worth checking that out.
  • Like 1
Posted

At that price? V5. Tampered with VIN plate

 

Bargain

  • Like 1
Posted

Yeah it doesn’t seem too rusty, and I thought it seemed like a flipping bargain but I don’t really keep an eye on these things..

  • Like 2
Posted

STREETWISES; contemporary reviews say the pezzer is the one to go for, because the (faster, more economical) diesel is a bit clattery. I don't mind clattery.

 

Is there any advantage to the petrol?

 

Can't comment on the diesel, aside from more weight, but if you do go petrol try to go for one with the 103hp 1.4 lump rather than the 84hp (admittedly the 84hp to 103hp conversion is pretty straightforward if you can find the better throttle body).

 

My little fella is the 84hp version and whilst it holds its own okay, especially in city traffic, it can be a bit asthmatic on motorways, particularly if trying to overtake stuff uphill ! Entirely competent though and has done me a fair few 250 mile round trips without complaint.

 

It is a competent little thing though, and as Rich notes R3s are eminently chuckable, with the Streetwise having the added advantage of big wheels/tyres to take the strain. Mine always feel very well planted on the road.

 

There are some very very rare 1.6/1.8 CVT K-series versions in existence, but not many at all of these around.

 

In terms of spec, SE is best or the rare Olympic if you can find one. The earlier ones (up to 04 reg) are better in terms of accessing the Pektron BCU which will fail at some point in time (usually relays pop)

 

Didn't you have an L-series one for a short while ?

Posted

Yeah it doesn’t seem too rusty, and I thought it seemed like a flipping bargain but I don’t really keep an eye on these things..

Get it bought if it’s not rusty
Posted

Mercedes Vito with a crew cab in 114CDI flavour. 100,000 miles and clean.

 

If I’ve been offered it for £900 should I snap it the hell up? Anything significant to look for?

I’m off to take a look. The guy says “it could maybe do with a service or injector check, runs fine and passed MOT but just being cautious- sounds a little bit off”
Posted

Probably got the black death then... Can be fixed with patience.

Posted

Do we reckon I could use a slide hammer to straighten this sill enough to refit the black plastic trim??

 

attachicon.gif70B1E665-5FEE-46E1-9ACB-9A3965FEA0BA.jpeg

 

Can't be acessed down the inside/interior? Flat wood and scissor jack to get most out? (No idea what the shape or profile is - so this may be bollox)

Posted

What about some of those sucker type dent pullers? I bet they'd make an improvement, at least.

Posted

I sold a car a number of years ago with a private plate. I'm interested in trying to buy the plate. The car is sorn but MOT expired. Is the a way to go about this?

  • Like 1
Posted

I imagine you would have to contact the current owner and see if they want to transfer it over to you, SORN and no MOT should not be an issue.

Posted

I imagine you would have to contact the current owner and see if they want to transfer it over to you, SORN and no MOT should not be an issue.

 

That's what I thought but I don't know who owns the vehicle now?

Posted

That's what I thought but I don't know who owns the vehicle now?

Then you are buggered unless you can track them down via an owners club etc. DVLA will (quite rightly) not release the owners details.

Posted

I've rather over enthusiastically tried to open the door of a Lancia Delta Integrale and snapped it. It is made of a flimsy plastic handle with a metal covering. Typical Fiat junk.

 

What is the strongest glue I can buy? Q Bond won't work on this. SIkaflex is probably too flexible. Any ideas? Or a cheap handle? Do any other Fiat items fit?

Maybe something like araldite? It’s not so much the glue that will help but how much you can brace it. Can you drill and pin the join so it’s a metal pin that takes the strain?

 

Bond area is important too so anything like a splint you can hide around the back will help to take the strain and give the glue more area to work

  • Like 2
Posted

Having a bit of a sort out of tools in the workshop and these have been sitting in the bottom of a box of random crap for ages, any idea what they are? because I haven't got a clue.

 

post-5550-0-31896400-1550171757_thumb.jpg

 

post-5550-0-23858000-1550171802_thumb.jpg

 

 

post-5550-0-15735900-1550171782_thumb.jpg

Posted

Old soldering irons I think, you heated them in a fire (hence the big end to hold a lot of heat).

  • Like 2
Posted

Old soldering irons I think, you heated them in a fire (hence the big end to hold a lot of heat).

 

Thanks, I just put that into google and that's exactly what they are. The mystery is solved.

Posted

Yep, I've got one, dad taught me to solder using one. Heat it up in the gas flame, just remember you have to file them smooth every so often as the solder eats the side you keep using.

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