Ask a Shiter

[wuvvum]

Yeah, so my Buick is broken.

 

Went to go out in it last night, it fired up straight away, ran for two seconds then cut out, and it's not shown any interest in starting since.

 

With the help of a neighbour and a can of Easystart I've been able to ascertain that it's sparking, so the problem is evidently fuel-related.  Helpfully* the OBD is showing no faults, despite the MIL being on .

 

When I turn the ignition on, the in-tank fuel pump whirrs for a couple of seconds, as it should do.  However when I use a screwdriver to press in the Schrader valve on the fuel line under the bonnet, it just sneezes out a few ml of petrol and that's it.  Surely there should be more pressure than that in an EFI system?

[dozeydustman]

Yeah, so my Buick is broken.

 

Went to go out in it last night, it fired up straight away, ran for two seconds then cut out, and it's not shown any interest in starting since.

 

With the help of a neighbour and a can of Easystart I've been able to ascertain that it's sparking, so the problem is evidently fuel-related.  Helpfully* the OBD is showing no faults, despite the MIL being on .

 

When I turn the ignition on, the in-tank fuel pump whirrs for a couple of seconds, as it should do.  However when I use a screwdriver to press in the Schrader valve on the fuel line under the bonnet, it just sneezes out a few ml of petrol and that's it.  Surely there should be more pressure than that in an EFI system?

 

Collapsed hose, air leak or blocked filter?

[tommytwo]

"Yeah, so my Buick is broken.

 

Went to go out in it last night, it fired up straight away, ran for two seconds then cut out, and it's not shown any interest in starting since.

 

With the help of a neighbour and a can of Easystart I've been able to ascertain that it's sparking, so the problem is evidently fuel-related.  Helpfully* the OBD is showing no faults, despite the MIL being on .

 

When I turn the ignition on, the in-tank fuel pump whirrs for a couple of seconds, as it should do.  However when I use a screwdriver to press in the Schrader valve on the fuel line under the bonnet, it just sneezes out a few ml of petrol and that's it.  Surely there should be more pressure than that in an EFI system?"

 

Your Buick problem may be due to a ballast Resistor in the ignition circuit. I had this once on a Dodge Aspen in Canada. It always blows when the weather is extremely cold. Its worth checking and the Resistor is usually easy to replace.

[dozeydustman]

Autodoc - any one used them, and what's your feedback?

[Tickman]

Autodoc - any one used them, and what's your feedback?

 

I've had stuff off them. 

Worked just fine but not always the fastest 

[dozeydustman]

I've had stuff off them. 

Worked just fine but not always the fastest 

 

That's good to know, thank you. I need to service the Corolla and just wondering if I should give them a shot or see if ECP discount codes can match.

[steveo3002]

can take over a week for autodoc and its min £8 posty....vs ecp can deliver the wrong parts same day free delivery lol

[Tamworthbay]

Another vote for autodoc, as said above the delivery is as fast as Prince Philips reactions but unlike him they do get there in the end.

[somewhatfoolish]

I've yet to look into registration costs but, daft question on Autoshite, do I buy it ? Do these Buicks explode, it's a 3.8.

 

Those V6s are bulletproof, GM turbocharged them and they still refuse to explode.

[Guest Hooli]

I want to say an old Bristol.

 

I keep wanting to say the same too.

 

Yeah, so my Buick is broken.

 

Went to go out in it last night, it fired up straight away, ran for two seconds then cut out, and it's not shown any interest in starting since.

 

With the help of a neighbour and a can of Easystart I've been able to ascertain that it's sparking, so the problem is evidently fuel-related.  Helpfully* the OBD is showing no faults, despite the MIL being on .

 

When I turn the ignition on, the in-tank fuel pump whirrs for a couple of seconds, as it should do.  However when I use a screwdriver to press in the Schrader valve on the fuel line under the bonnet, it just sneezes out a few ml of petrol and that's it.  Surely there should be more pressure than that in an EFI system?

 

It has got fuel in the tank hasn't it?

[Jmac]

Hi all. Is there a thread for videos on YouTube you watch , I have found a engine building channel , I find it very relaxing to watch , it's a German guy , sometimes he speaks English , sometimes just quiet . Nice .

[wuvvum]

It has got fuel in the tank hasn't it?

Yup, 1/4 tank in fact.

 

 

Your Buick problem may be due to a ballast Resistor in the ignition circuit. I had this once on a Dodge Aspen in Canada. It always blows when the weather is extremely cold. Its worth checking and the Resistor is usually easy to replace.

Interesting.  Would that not stop it firing completely though?  It runs "normally" as long as you spray Easystart into the intake, but doesn't even cough otherwise.

[wuvvum]

Collapsed hose, air leak or blocked filter?

I did wonder if it was a blockage somewhere (not sure where the filter is on these, it ain't under the bonnet), but I would have thought that if that was the problem the in-tank pump would keep on running for longer - aren't they supposed to shut off at a certain pressure rather than after a certain time?

 

This is the setup under the bonnet. The round fuel valve thing has a vacuum pipe running from it which is quite perished, but I couldn't see any obvious issues other than that.

 

[mitsisigma01]

Autodoc - any one used them, and what's your feedback?

Searching for Sigma bits , they claimed to have them but I kept searching and found them in a motor factors 20 miles up the road for less money , collected within the hour and fitted that day .

I have heard they are slow and not keen on returning money if they can't source them . Corolla service parts should be easy enough to find. GLWTsearch

[Lacquer Peel]

The Passat failed its test on its insecure battery along with a few other things. The clamp is gone, apparently this is what I need but I can't figure out how it works to hold the battery in place. Any ideas?

 

I'm tempted to use a wee ratchet strap or bungee instead, paying close to £20 for a wee bit of metal stings a bit.

 

[loserone]

I would have thought some zip ties end to end would be enough to hold it in place securely.  You only need to ensure it's not likely to fall from it's carrier and cause a short circuit (4.13.a.ii)

[loserone]

* yes, I have done this previously, during a test, using zip ties of different sizes found on the floor of the car and of the testing bay.  

[The Moog]

Hi all. Is there a thread for videos on YouTube you watch , I have found a engine building channel , I find it very relaxing to watch , it's a German guy , sometimes he speaks English , sometimes just quiet . Nice .

http://autoshite.com/topic/31225-before-you-start-a-new-thread-please-read-this/ 

[Cavcraft]

If you buy a second hand car from a main dealer and it throws it's hand in (under warranty) the next day, who's responsible for getting it back to the dealer if it's not driveable?

[DodgeRover]

The Passat failed its test on its insecure battery along with a few other things. The clamp is gone, apparently this is what I need but I can't figure out how it works to hold the battery in place. Any ideas?

 

I'm tempted to use a wee ratchet strap or bungee instead, paying close to £20 for a wee bit of metal stings a bit.

 

Ratchet strap, job done

[DodgeRover]

If you buy a second hand car from a main dealer and it throws it's hand in (under warranty) the next day, who's responsible for getting it back to the dealer if it's not driveable?

Morally the dealer, legally I think it's up to the purchaser to return it as unfit for purpose. Assuming we aren't talking about a £200 special.

[MorrisItalSLX]

How well do V6 badermatic Rover 75s handle high mileage? (200,000+) What should you look out for?

[Exiled_Tat_Gatherer]

If you buy a second hand car from a main dealer and it throws it's hand in (under warranty) the next day, who's responsible for getting it back to the dealer if it's not driveable?

 

I had an BGT do this - and I was the other end of England. Told 'em to recover it themselves or I'd get it to a local and they pay for all repairs. They decided on a local checking it out, then they shipped it back and I got a refund….. Speak to them first though

[95 quid Peugeot]

Eddie Honda did a excellent thread on funerals.

Does anyone know a easy way to copy complete thread as a oner to pass onto to someone

Ta

[New POD]

If you know a dick head who has a driveway outside his house but insists on parking in the road taking a valuable space in a limited parking area, how would you make sure they stopped being a dick head ? As far as I know insurance isn't valid if you don't park on the drive when at home.. He's one of them modern Mercedes drivers that is all cocky and you can't talk to him..

My insurance is valid for parking in the street for 2 of 3 cars and the other is garage or drive.

[New POD]

If you buy a second hand car from a main dealer and it throws it's hand in (under warranty) the next day, who's responsible for getting it back to the dealer if it's not driveable?

Given that I am in the RAC its not likely to be a discussion i'd need to have with a dealer

[tommytwo]

"Yeah, so my Buick is broken.

 

Went to go out in it last night, it fired up straight away, ran for two seconds then cut out, and it's not shown any interest in starting since.

 

With the help of a neighbour and a can of Easystart I've been able to ascertain that it's sparking, so the problem is evidently fuel-related.  Helpfully* the OBD is showing no faults, despite the MIL being on .

 

When I turn the ignition on, the in-tank fuel pump whirrs for a couple of seconds, as it should do.  However when I use a screwdriver to press in the Schrader valve on the fuel line under the bonnet, it just sneezes out a few ml of petrol and that's it.  Surely there should be more pressure than that in an EFI system?"

 

Your Buick problem may be due to a ballast Resistor in the ignition circuit. I had this once on a Dodge Aspen in Canada. It always blows when the weather is extremely cold. Its worth checking and the Resistor is usually easy to replace.

 

The way it works is as follows:

 

The car is fitted with a coil that needs less than 12 volts to give a healthy spark. In normal running, the feed to the coil is via a resistance. During starting. the starter motor hogs everything that the battery can supply and there is not enough current fed to a normal 12 volt coil to generate a healthy spark, hence the feed is routed direct to the coil. When the start key is released, the coil feed is via the resistance in the circuit. This system was once very common on 70ies, early 80ies cars. Usually identified by two wires to one side of a coil and the other side to earth. I have no idea if this system or a variant of it is still used in modernish cars.

[D Spares & Tyres]

Would a DPF just block up with very little warning?

2015 Renault van 1.6 diesel

Symptoms. Low power, whistling noise like a worn turbo.

Then, it cut out. Oil over end of engine. Not massive amount but hard to see where it comes from. Made worse by aux belt spraying it.

Now when started it tried to very briefly but no smoke out of exhaust. Fumes in intake pipes.

It's got to be blocked DPF, can't be much else can it? It looks a right arse to do. Subrame and driveshaft out by the looks of it.

Sounds like it’s either split or popped off a boost / turbo hose

Well, it's turned out to be a knackered turbo.

 

Thanks anyway

[Lacquer Peel]

Ratchet strap, job done

There, I fixed it. I used a bungee cord before to secure my old Nissan Vanette's battery, don't know why I was even looking at the proper clamps.

 

[wuvvum]

The way it works is as follows:

 

The car is fitted with a coil that needs less than 12 volts to give a healthy spark. In normal running, the feed to the coil is via a resistance. During starting. the starter motor hogs everything that the battery can supply and there is not enough current fed to a normal 12 volt coil to generate a healthy spark, hence the feed is routed direct to the coil. When the start key is released, the coil feed is via the resistance in the circuit. This system was once very common on 70ies, early 80ies cars. Usually identified by two wires to one side of a coil and the other side to earth. I have no idea if this system or a variant of it is still used in modernish cars.

 

Yeah, my Volvo has a ballast resistor in the ignition circuit - only worked out what it was when I inadvertently wired an electric fuel pump in to the coil side of the resistor and wondered why the pump wasn't doing much.  Plugged it in to the battery side and away it went.

 

I'll have to check to see if the Buick has something similar - although it's distributorless / coil packs so if there is a resistor it might be built in to the ignition module rather than a separate unit on the bulkhead like the Volvo.