Ask a Shiter

[Stanky]

Thanks both, makes sense in the assembly stage which I hadn't thought of, I guess they build the whole lot then just roll it in.

 

I'm glad my Nissan doesn't have one now its well past its assembly stage - it does seem to make repairs easier by not having one! I'll suffer with the lower rigidity, NVH and complication of engine swopz YO.

[tooSavvy]

Savv is on a sub.... Clutch required a full drop (my man has a full lift) but one captive has broken free...

 

A 'loppy drop' was enough - clutch will see it fragged so no worries for the future.

 

TS

[xtriple]

One for Panhard I think....

 

Do our model old heap (RR and have voltage stabilisers or similar for the clocks? The reason I ask is: the gauges in my ;new' heap read high (Volts up to the right hand edge of the white bit, oil pressure the same, and the temp gauge over the halfway mark) whereas the old Turbo 'R' read low for all three and were checked out and declared 'fine'!

 

If I turn the engine off and then put the ignition back on, all the gauges read lower (volts and oil pressure for obvious reasons ) and go back to their previous positions as soon as the engine is started. There's no problem as such, just nosey and like things to be 'right;!

[Pillock]

That would appear to be a voltage thing, but not sure if it's a regulator issue - cars will always do the 14v when running, 12v when idle otherwise the alternator is buggered. Probably that your gauges aren't damped to buggery like a lot of new cars.

 

Hence your voltmeter is being spot on, as is oil pressure if the engine isn't running, so the only oddity is the water temp - and that's of no consequence when the engine is off.

[Frogchod]

I've got oil in coolant header tank.

No mayo in oil or on dip stick, no loss of power*, starts easy.

Head gasket ?

225K mile DW8 non turbot.

K seal ? Then flog it quick ? Or does K seal really work ?

[John F]

I've got oil in coolant header tank.

No mayo in oil or on dip stick, no loss of power*, starts easy.

Head gasket ?

225K mile DW8 non turbot.

K seal ? Then flog it quick ? Or does K seal really work ?

 

There's a fair chance it could be your oil cooler that's failed, it's not unknown on that engine.

[twosmoke300]

It's most likely to be the cooler . Bypass it with a hose joiner , clean system out with washing powder and monitor .

[Frogchod]

Ok, great, where's the oil cooler ? I've not noticed one, at least not a radiator type one.

Citroen Jumpy (Dispatch) btw

[twosmoke300]

If it's a spin on filter it will be sandwiched between the filter and block . A kind of square ish unit with two 5/8 ish pipes coming off it .

[Frogchod]

Right. Thanks.

Makes sense now that the pastis is wearing off....

I'll canoe across to the van tomorrow and have looksee

>fuggin rain<

[Alan_Green]

If it's a spin on filter it will be sandwiched between the filter and block . A kind of square ish unit with two 5/8 ish pipes coming off it .

Twosmoke, could you move to the South East please? I'd be your best customer. You know everything about everything.

[twosmoke300]

I pretend to .

[Negative Creep]

Does it do any damage to an auto box to leave it in D with the handbrake on?

[D Spares & Tyres]

No

[RustyNuts]

Can someone tell me how the vacuum / brake servo thing works in a brake circuit... and why i'm meant to have the engine running to bleed the brakes?

 

Sorry for being a dimwit..

[panhard65]

One for Panhard I think....

 

Do our model old heap (RR and have voltage stabilisers or similar for the clocks? The reason I ask is: the gauges in my ;new' heap read high (Volts up to the right hand edge of the white bit, oil pressure the same, and the temp gauge over the halfway mark) whereas the old Turbo 'R' read low for all three and were checked out and declared 'fine'!

 

If I turn the engine off and then put the ignition back on, all the gauges read lower (volts and oil pressure for obvious reasons ) and go back to their previous positions as soon as the engine is started. There's no problem as such, just nosey and like things to be 'right;!

No idea but I expect there is a relay or ecu for each one as there is for pretty much everything else on these cars.

[xtriple]

No idea but I expect there is a relay or ecu for each one as there is for pretty much everything else on these cars.

\Thanks mate, cheered me right up!   No one seems to know for sure, one of those questions better not asked! I'm pretty sure it must have something as they change with battery voltage. Not that worried... just don't like seeing the temp gauge further east than centre. Never moves once warmed up so I should ignore it, but this is me and I am insane!

 

I even asked the dealers and they said it was right and STILL I worry!

[Eddie Honda]

Does it do any damage to an auto box to leave it in D with the handbrake on?

Depends what sort of auto box.

[RustyNuts]

Does it do any damage to an auto box to leave it in D with the handbrake on?

 

It never has with ours... i've driven 4 autos... granted 3 were the same french pile of rust and one is the honda but typically it just refuses to start until you move it back into P or N.

[binhoker668]

So I declared my SP30 from the other month, and my insurance vultures (Co-op Eco )informed me that come renewal (14th January) my monthly payments will go up another 13 clams.  Which is fiendish tbh.  They already upped the ante by a tenner last month.

My MOT is this Friday.

And I'm FLEECED AS FECK AFTER XMAS!

So.  Now that my wee rant is over,

Can you guys suggest some cool-as-fuck* insurance peoples?

These things always come in flocks eh!

Cheers

C

 

[dollywobbler]

Can someone tell me how the vacuum / brake servo thing works in a brake circuit... and why i'm meant to have the engine running to bleed the brakes?

 

Sorry for being a dimwit..

 

In short, the servo just provides extra pressure so life is certainly easier if you bleed with the engine running - that's what builds up servo pressure. Pretty sure I've bled cars with servos without the engine running though. Perhaps that was a bad thing. My Citroens either have an entirely different way of doing things, or no servo at all. Or both.

[Inspector Morose]

Yup, servos are there to just provide assistance (In older cars, at least). They are usually vacuum operated, with a large diaphragm and spring providing the extra "oomph". As they were separate from the braking circuit (the hydraulic bit) you can bleed the braked perfectly adequately without the engine runnng.

 

However on lorries and buses of a certain era there was a system used that had a separate high pressure hydraulic system to provide the assistance to the ordinary brakes instead of using vacuum. It was a hydraulically assisted hydraulic system, if you will.

[steve_earwig]

Where does it say you have to have the engine running to bleed the brakes? Is this on some weird forrin motor? Seems a good way of spraying brake fluid everywhere to me...

 

Btw they work by magic.

[fatharris]

I've never had an engine running to bleed brakes, and no fatalities yet.

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

[Negative Creep]

It never has with ours... i've driven 4 autos... granted 3 were the same french pile of rust and one is the honda but typically it just refuses to start until you move it back into P or N.

 

 

Should have clarified, that would be at the lights with the engine running, to try and avoid making the person behind me stare at the brake lights.

 

 

Also, what's that vehicle in the middle?

 

[bub2006]

My Vectra and focus I just slotted it into n and put handbrake on unless it was a short stop then it was left in drive and foot on brake

[steve_earwig]

Supernova? Hold on... nah, tail lights are wrong. Good* hubcaps though.

 

Leaving it in drive with the handbrake on at the lights is the same as leaving the footbrake on, although on the RAV I have to ease off the footbrake or it takes up the suspension slack and makes the car lurch, but that's because it's pretending to be a RWD FWD.

 

Random neuron activation: on the auto Senator I had you can't jack one side of the rear up with it in park or it'll shear the screw holding the brake disk on that side. Good* bit of design that.

[steve_earwig]

Where does it say you have to have the engine running to bleed the brakes? Is this on some weird forrin motor? Seems a good way of spraying brake fluid everywhere to me...

 

Btw they work by magic.

Another neuron fires: On my 406 Haynes specifically states not to turn the ignition on while you're bleeding the brakes or there's the possibility it'll blow air into the valve block and you'll need special* equipment to get it out again (any before anyone makes any 20 pence bit jokes, this is the same unit used on a lot of cars, including some kraut tanks I do believe)

[Matt]

Is there anything that I should absolutely do / check on the silver Swift before taking it to it's MOT? It's sat for three years unmoved but I was able to shift it back and fourth a bit by hand but the deflated tyres, non running engine and the fact it was sunken into the gravel stopped me from properly moving it. It think I later moved in back a few feet without trouble once I had it running but I'll turn it around in the drive next time I'm there to confirm if memory serves correct or not. In any case the brakes don't appear to be frozen on. The tyres and rubber hoses all seem A-OK too.

[meshking]

Should have clarified, that would be at the lights with the engine running, to try and avoid making the person behind me stare at the brake lights.

 

 

Also, what's that vehicle in the middle?

 

 

Isn't that a dacia of some description?