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With the civic alarm there is a way of locking it without enabling the ultra sonics . Can’t remember it for the life of me now but I used to show customers with dogs how to do it

According to the manual you pull the outside handle and lock the inside drivers door lock. Like you would on a car where you want to lock the drivers door without using the door key.

 

What really annoys me on the Civic alarm is that there is no way to turn off the alarm system except with the remote key fob. If you unlock the doors with the door keys, the alarm will go off. Starting the engine doesn't cancel the alarm like most cars do and will continue to sound. As one of my keys remote fob is very temperamental (seems to be the battery contacts - despite resoldering it), I'm currently down to one key as I can't use it.

 

I get the feeling that the car is getting to the age where a lot of stuff is starting to fail and be end of life. But while it carries on being only niggly things that break, I'm just going to keep on truckin'.

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Where's the alarm horn? Can you remove that!

I have considered that but the hazards will probably still flash away. On Renault if you disconnect the siren the whole alarm system is disabled. Unfortunately I don't think it works that way with Honda as it's factory fit into the body computer.

 

Not sure where the siren is either!

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Pretty sure I've tried that but it didn't work and the alarm set itself as normal. I'll give it another go though as I may have remembered the wrong car.

 

Yeah, the Omega was like that. No way to lock it and NOT set the alarm. Then the alarm would randomly go off. Car alarms give me many angers, and the standard fitment of them just makes me want to scream and invoke my own Junkman-esque cut-off point when all cars turned to shit.

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Had a road rage incident with a bloke in a Nissan Juke this morning.  Obstructed, narrow road.  He came super fast around a narrow, blind corner so I pulled into a gap to let him past.  He winds down his window and starts shouting about right of way.  I told him that I couldn't have seem him because he was 'screaming around the corner' and then told him to 'fuck off and go to work'.

 

Not like me at all.  Nevertheless the discussion ended on my terms...

 

Suprisingly shaken up by it...

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Alarm is still engaging even when locked with the key in the door. I have two keys but only one working keyfob. So if this buggers up too, then the car is buggered with no way of turning off the alarm.

 

[Video]

 

Weirdly the red alarm warning light has stopped lighting up when turning the ignition on and off like it was doing yesterday. Maybe it's given up trying to talk to the ultrasonic sensors?

 

If I can't disable the alarm, it could well be the thing that sends this car off to the scrapyard.

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......there is no way to turn off the alarm system except with the remote key fob. If you unlock the doors with the door keys, the alarm will go off. Starting the engine doesn't cancel the alarm like most cars do....

 

 

Lot of cars do that - I had to drive an old Audi A6 20 miles with the alarm going off because I didn’t have tools to disable it and the key broke :D

 

The remote sensor on the diesel Borat failed about two years ago, but the system is designed to give you about 20 seconds' grace to unlock the driver's door with the key, and then get the key into the ignition and turn it to "run", which disarms the alarm. The remote fob still works, but is useless if the sensor no longer detects it.

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LIQUORICE LININGS?

 

Not sure if this is right thread to post this in, so moderators please move if there is a more appropriate one.

 

Had an unusual problem with the rear brakes on the Maxi this week.

Fitted a new set of rear brake linings about 2,000 miles ago. The old ones were still OK but were riveted, so I decided to routinely replace them with bonded ones to protect againt future drum scoring by the rivets, which I have experienced before..

Bought a new bonded set from the bay of E. Cheapish but not stupidly so.

Branded as Borg & Beck, which I recognised as a known make. Box looked genuine and "Borg & Beck" stamped on each lining in what appears to be their correct font.

 

post-22043-0-40488600-1519398539_thumb.jpg

 

Recently the rear brakes started making graunching noises when braking from low speed.

Removed the drums to investigate and found this:

 

post-22043-0-85469200-1519398482_thumb.jpg

 

The friction material on all four linings looks as though it has melted like hot tar.

There was also a coating of a black tar-like gunge on the machined surface inside both drums.

This would not come off just with solvent so I had to use sandpaper followed by cellulose thinners to remove it.

The inside of the drums were not, and still are not, scored or rusty.

The wheel cylinders were, and still are, dry with no extraneous brake fluid visible anywhere.

I don't drive the car "enthusiastically" and brake hard and they were not binding, so I would not expect them to have overheated.

I have now ordered, received and fitted another set from a different manufacturer and, no surprise, the noise has disappeared.

I hope these don't go the same way.

I am tempted to send the photo to the Ebay seller but, since they were purchased about 18 months ago, I don't expect I can get a refund. Still it might be worth letting them know anyway.

I am now wondering if these are in fact cheap, maybe oriental, clones branded as, but not actually manufactured by, Borg & Beck.

Has anyone else on here every seen a problem like this?

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Had the audi sorted for a very reasonable £150. Tech said rear callipers were getting tired - a clean and new pads are next as the callipers may live a little longer if I do this - the pistons wont have to extend so much.

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LIQUORICE LININGS?

 

Not sure if this is right thread to post this in, so moderators please move if there is a more appropriate one.

 

Had an unusual problem with the rear brakes on the Maxi this week.

Fitted a new set of rear brake linings about 2,000 miles ago. The old ones were still OK but were riveted, so I decided to routinely replace them with bonded ones to protect againt future drum scoring by the rivets, which I have experienced before..

Bought a new bonded set from the bay of E. Cheapish but not stupidly so.

Branded as Borg & Beck, which I recognised as a known make. Box looked genuine and "Borg & Beck" stamped on each lining in what appears to be their correct font.

 

attachicon.gif20180220_140029.jpg

 

Recently the rear brakes started making graunching noises when braking from low speed.

Removed the drums to investigate and found this:

 

attachicon.gif20180220_140000.jpg

 

The friction material on all four linings looks as though it has melted like hot tar.

There was also a coating of a black tar-like gunge on the machined surface inside both drums.

This would not come off just with solvent so I had to use sandpaper followed by cellulose thinners to remove it.

The inside of the drums were not, and still are not, scored or rusty.

The wheel cylinders were, and still are, dry with no extraneous brake fluid visible anywhere.

I don't drive the car "enthusiastically" and brake hard and they were not binding, so I would not expect them to have overheated.

I have now ordered, received and fitted another set from a different manufacturer and, no surprise, the noise has disappeared.

I hope these don't go the same way.

I am tempted to send the photo to the Ebay seller but, since they were purchased about 18 months ago, I don't expect I can get a refund. Still it might be worth letting them know anyway.

I am now wondering if these are in fact cheap, maybe oriental, clones branded as, but not actually manufactured by, Borg & Beck.

Has anyone else on here every seen a problem like this?

 

 

Borg and Beck is dogshit these days IMO. Nowt to do with brake linings, but I had serious hassles with their clutch components purely down to shoddy build quality. 

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LIQUORICE LININGS?

 

Not sure if this is right thread to post this in, so moderators please move if there is a more appropriate one.

 

Had an unusual problem with the rear brakes on the Maxi this week.

Fitted a new set of rear brake linings about 2,000 miles ago. The old ones were still OK but were riveted, so I decided to routinely replace them with bonded ones to protect againt future drum scoring by the rivets, which I have experienced before..

Bought a new bonded set from the bay of E. Cheapish but not stupidly so.

Branded as Borg & Beck, which I recognised as a known make. Box looked genuine and "Borg & Beck" stamped on each lining in what appears to be their correct font.

 

attachicon.gif20180220_140029.jpg

 

Recently the rear brakes started making graunching noises when braking from low speed.

Removed the drums to investigate and found this:

 

attachicon.gif20180220_140000.jpg

 

The friction material on all four linings looks as though it has melted like hot tar.

There was also a coating of a black tar-like gunge on the machined surface inside both drums.

This would not come off just with solvent so I had to use sandpaper followed by cellulose thinners to remove it.

The inside of the drums were not, and still are not, scored or rusty.

The wheel cylinders were, and still are, dry with no extraneous brake fluid visible anywhere.

I don't drive the car "enthusiastically" and brake hard and they were not binding, so I would not expect them to have overheated.

I have now ordered, received and fitted another set from a different manufacturer and, no surprise, the noise has disappeared.

I hope these don't go the same way.

I am tempted to send the photo to the Ebay seller but, since they were purchased about 18 months ago, I don't expect I can get a refund. Still it might be worth letting them know anyway.

I am now wondering if these are in fact cheap, maybe oriental, clones branded as, but not actually manufactured by, Borg & Beck.

Has anyone else on here every seen a problem like this?

The clue is in the borg and beck font.

 

It looks like what you would see on a saloon bar.

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I find a good 80-90% of brand new eBay parts are fakes tbh. They're really good at faking them nowadays. Packaging and all. Especially certain things like light bulbs and such like.

 

However eBay can be useful for NOS parts and main dealer parts directly from main dealers. Easy to find the latter as they put their dealership phone number and address registered as their eBay account. A quick Google is often enough due diligence to see if it's a real dealer.

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While I was asleep Old Man randomly ordered two recon calipers, pads etc for the rear brakes from Rock Auto and now I owe him some money I'm not sure I have.

 

Er, thanks?

 

I seem to remember you telling us you had 3 sticky calipers?

Seems like hes saved you 1/3.

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I find a good 80-90% of brand new eBay parts are fakes tbh. They're really good at faking them nowadays. Packaging and all. Especially certain things like light bulbs and such like.

 

However eBay can be useful for NOS parts and main dealer parts directly from main dealers. Easy to find the latter as they put their dealership phone number and address registered as their eBay account. A quick Google is often enough due diligence to see if it's a real dealer.

 

They were ordered from classicandmoderncarparts, who have been an Ebay member since 2003 and have a score of 100% on about 48,000 feedbacks. They have businees details as BNC Autoparts Ltd. with an address in Midlothian.

They certainly don't sound like cowboys, but who knows where they buy their parts from?

 

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I put an ebay Sachs clutch in my Porsche and haven't been happy with it since it went in. I might have to put another one in there as it really stinks if you pull away a bit rapidly.. It looked like a proper one and there was only Sachs made a clutch for the S so you would think it was legit.

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Most of us remember "Borg&Beck" from the time when they were the British branch of Borg-Warner and made quality parts.

 

Unfortunately, this hasn't been the case for over a decade now - the brand name is now owned by FirstLine, and Borg&Beck boxes seem to contain sub-standard, Chinese-made shite. This level of quality* unfortunately seems to be the rule for OEM* part suppliers nowadays.

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