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Posted

mk1 range rover wont wipe rear window if drivers door open!

Posted

Did the door windows randomly start going up and down?  My 820 used to do that when the earth cable came off the battery.

Nope! When I got the thing, I think I may have fitted a replacement fusebox amongst a load of other things, so all the electrics do exactly as they're supposed to do.

Posted

I've just not mustered up the will to work my way through the on board super computer to see if I can turn off.

It also says this when you start it up and the wheels are turned.

 

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it should just show this picture

 

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Shit like this makes me love my Duster even more. Yes it has ESP, ABS and Stop/Start but FUCK ALL ELSE that tells me how to use a car

  • Like 3
Posted

The thing that annoys me most on the Lexus is the fact that the remote boot release will not operate if the engine is running. Or if the battery is disconnected. Good ol' cables have no such qualms. I do love a remote boot release...

Posted

The thing that annoys me most on the Lexus is the fact that the remote boot release will not operate if the engine is running. Or if the battery is disconnected. Good ol' cables have no such qualms. I do love a remote boot release...

 

maybe you need to hold the button down for longer- you do with a primevil, prolly so you dont do it by accident

Posted

Shit like this makes me love my ToMM© even more. Yes it has a doorkey, to Stop/Start but FUCK ALL ELSE that tells me how to use a car

I feel a real glow..... ;)

 

TS

Posted

This light came on the dash of fozzie focus no idea what it means

 

 

Goldfish in solar eclipse?

  • Like 2
Posted

Yeah that's the gearbox fault light. Has the box gone into limp mode? I.e. stuck in 3rd.

no it drove fine

Posted

My manual mk2 focus lights that up occasionally for absolutely no reason at all.

Posted

11pm sub-zero transit brake cylinder changing.

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Has no one come up with a better way to secure shoes to the back plate than this?

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  • Like 3
Posted

There were different ways of making plates at the time.

Some were thin vinyl transfers that were rubbed down onto the reflective, with the glue on the perspex. Others have the digits stuck back to front on the rear of the perspex and glue on the reflective.

Some used pre cut letters held in place with a water mist.

All required to be put through a roller which could also be used to squish the apprentices Mars bar flat. ????

Sadly they don’t make plates like that anymore, hence why plates on old cars last 30years and still look good, ones on a 15 year old car look crap, and ones on a 3 year old car look fucking terrible.

 

When I made plates 8/9 years ago in a main dealers, we had a machine which printed out the yellow or white backing with the registration and dealer logo on it, we stuck the Perspex/acrylic onto it and put it trough a roller, which some places still use, others also use this method but the yellow and white backings come in with the border and dealer logo already printed on rather than be printed on by the machine at the same time as the registration. Some big dealers still do this, eg Vertu/Bristol Street/Macklin, and Parks Motor Group, generally those using plates made by bestplate machines, using Nikkalite backings.

 

However a lot of the big dealer groups, eg Arnold Clark, Evans Halshaw/Stratstone/Pendragon, Sytner, and a lot of Toyota dealers like Inchcape, those using Hills machines, either use tin or black plastic backings with a yellow or white front on them which is sticky, the machine prints out a clear thin film with the reg number and dealer logo on it, which is then stuck onto the yellow or white sticky front, and put through the roller, what happens is because on these plates the backing is now at the front rather than the back hidden/protected by the clear Perspex, it’s exposed to the elements and goes dirty, or water gets in between the clear thin film and the plastic/tin backing with the yellow/white sticky front and water damages it or else the thin clear film just peels away or rips or gets pelted with stones and chips away, in some cases the whole thin film comes off and makes the number plate look all faded and dirty or dirty and dust stick to the now exposed sticky white/yellow, and in some cases parts of the numbers of the reg even become so faded or missing it can’t be seen.

 

Sometimes even seen plates made entirely out of a yellow or white piece of plastic which the reg is printed onto and gradually it goes brittle like an old sticker and bits flake off.

 

Noticed all this from old reg plates I collect for the dealer logos on them, the plates off of 1990s cars are generally in better condition than the ones off of anything post 2000 right up until the present day, even if the modern ones happen to be the same way of manufacture as the 1990s ones, ie the bestplate type ones as described above, somehow despite being the same plates made the same way the older ones are better and look fresher than the older ones. Only issue with older plates is the letters somehow weirdly ‘stretch’ in height over time most noticeable with C, E, R, S, 3, 5, 9, on older plates.

Posted

Has no one come up with a better way to secure shoes to the back plate than this?

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Yep, this type with retainer and spring in one component. (Can't remember if they were Girling or not)

 

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Posted

Nothing cheap will come of this....

NEC Show offer- membership up to March 2019 and all 2017 back issues of the magazine for the regular price.

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  • Like 5
Posted

I've been banging on and lusting after any Rover R8 or 75 which floats my boat on ebay etc but came to realise yesterday that the real endangered model right now appears to be the 600-series - numbers have plummetted to below 3,000 on the road, which is bonkers when you consider that Rover made 270,988 of the blighters between 1993 and 1999 (although I understand a lot were exported).

 

How the hell have so many of them disappeared in such a short space of time ? I don't recall them being desparately shit. Anyway, want one now...

 

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Posted

I don't know, but I remember upsetting a bloke I worked with when I told him his Rover 600 was actually a Honda Accord.

 

He got proper angry.

 

Not sure why.

Posted

Rot. Or exploding gearboxes in my case (though rot is what made it uneconomical to save). Does make me sad that they get so readily overlooked for the podgy 75. I prefer the L-series diesel to the CDT, prefer the looks of the 600 and it feels much lighter and more nimble to drive.

 

Downsides are the ride is firmer and it never had the V6 engine it needed for maximum waft status.

  • Like 4
Posted

Normally people try and upsell the Honda DNA in their Rovers, 1.8 K turbo "ultra reliable Honda engine" etc.

 

Average street furniture car form a defunct manufacturer won't help their survival rates but the youngest 600 will be 18 years old now so not bad innings for the survivors.

  • Like 2
Posted

There was a time when I thought the 600 was the classic of the future....Didn't Moss or somebody have a specialist parts department for them at one time?   

Posted

Just bought a BMW e46 coupe with a puny engine and a rusty front wing. And a torn driver's seat.

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And my phone is playing up.

#winning at life

Posted

I got bored and went on the internet.

I can insure an SW20 MR2 for less than the Volvo, and that's not even on a classic policy.

 

That'll be worth thinking about in a few months.

Posted

It's a bit* harder to get flatpack furniture in a MR2.

  • Like 4
Posted

I don't remember saying I was going to get rid of the Volvo...

  • Like 2
Posted

Good 600 for sale just now. Owner is actually on here but never posted as far a I know. L672 ALJ

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Posted

600s are dull, but they're bloody good cars and a lot more reliable, easier to work on and can take a lot more abuse than a 75. There's no rust on ours, but the paint is absolutely knackered. Covered in scratches, dings and dents, which is frustrating but even if I could afford a respray, the car wouldn't justify it.

 

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