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Reginald Nutsack's K-series Kapers - ROVER 623 MOT GUFF


Mr_Bo11ox

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GR8.9 FRAMIN ADVENTURZ.

 

Looks a serious bargain does that, hope it all goes well. As an aside I'd been wondering about the potential of a 1 9 dizzler to tow the caravan/bikes/lug shite and replace both the Leon and Transit, I think this confirms my suspicions that it's a bad idea. I like the fact that if it all goes wrong at least you can kip in the van.

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Ace collection tales, Mr_B!

 

I used to take your return route a lot when I lived in Neath and went to uni in Coventry.  My loaded up VW Beetle with iffy engine really struggled on the hills, you'd just about stagger up to 45mph in third gear, change up to fourth and then slow back down to 40.  Change down to third, "accelerate" up to 45, change up, slow down again...

 

A few years later I did the same route in my Alfasud Sprint and was amazed how different the route felt with adequate power.  At least your Fiat doesn't have the Bedford HA Economy Engine with 28.5bhp, that would make for a very exciting A-frame adventure.  What with being overtaken by milkfloats, the vicar on his bicycle, hobbling geriatrics etc

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Got started with this today, pulled it down the drive and started taking bits off

 

P1060303.jpg

 

Its starts up straight away without any spluttering, theres defo a K-series in there though:

 

P1060305.jpg

 

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At first glance it all looks much like the van, but actually theres very little which is interchangeable. Gearbox is different, the VVC head is a different casting, manifolding is completely different, alternator is different, ABS....

 

P1060308.jpg

BUCKET SHOT

 

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One problem I have got, is no key for the locking wheel nuts. Yeah yeah I know, 'hammer a smaller nut over it'. Anyone have a better idea than one of these?

 

$(KGrHqN,!lMFGT+8+QD)BRuI+cTpi!~~60_12.J

 

 

Worked till I ran out of daylight!!! I need to pop down the garage and get the 'inside out torx sockets' and breaker bar before I can do any more. Got the inlet manifold off, drive belts alternator yeast shields and half the coolant pipes. Next i have to pop the crankshaft nut and remove the belt.

 

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Its had something like 6 owners this car but it doesn't seem too badly molested. The engine is VERI CLIN and doesn't show any external signs of being arsed about with. I think the HG thats in there is a single layer one, although I can't be certain till the heads off obv. If so it must be one of the last in existence!!!!

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Lovely stuff man. I would probably just weld another nut on top and get them off that way, but theres a welder within arms reach most times so it would be easier than hammering owt on them, I know you've got a welder but it probably wouldn't be worth bundling the sod in the back of the car and fetching it over -  Those inside-out-easy-outs seem to work best with an impact gun apparently but plenty of people sang their praises when I worked at frauds back in the bad old days.

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Hey if anyone knows anyone breaking a 25 or 45, I'm looking for a set of 4 6-inch wide 15' Steels to put on my van. These are what the streetwise uses, but the silver Streetwise steels are mega rare! Black ones are a lot more common as I think a lot of 45's and ZS's had them for spare wheels. I've got some new placca centre caps, just need to find the rims! There are a couple on ebay but theyre like £30 for a single wheel rim. I want to pay £10 or thereabouts! Or maybe more if they come with decent hoops.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Been on with this a bit lately:

 

P1060319.jpg

 

To my surprise when i got it to bits i found it had the standard-issue single layer elastomeric gasket still in place after 13 years and (supposedly) 70,000 miles. The rubber seal had come debonded from the metal backing in a few places which presumably led to the failed HGF symptoms. 

 

P1060321.jpg

 

I cleaned everything up and had a proper look, remembering TiffX1/9's comments about liner heights and shims and whatnot.

 

P1060325.jpg

 

Now I don't have access to much in the way of metrology equipment but I put a straightedge across the liner tops and used my feeler gauges to establish the 'gap' between the straightedge and the top surface of the block. I don't know if your feeler gauges are the same but every pair I've had have gone rusty through infrequent use and repeatedly getting flooded in the bottom of my toolbox while doing emergency roadside repairs in the pissing rain, rendering them unreadable. What i found is that along the aft edge of the block I could get the thinnest feeler gauge (whatever fupping size that is, god knows, probably .005mm?) in the gap no problem. Along the forward edge it was borderline and the straightedge nipped down fairlytight on the feeler gauge. This is making me think that the liner height is probably not at the optimum height! I suspect I would feel a lot better about the whole thing if I could get a set of those liner shims in.

 

P1060324.jpg

 

However, I have scratched my head about it and cannot see any straightforward way of getting them in without removing and completely dismantling the engine.

 

P1060327.jpg

 

So, i am gonna carry on cleaning the head and block surface up till they are immaculately clean, then bosh it all back together with the new MLS gasket and bolts and see what happens.  

 

If i can get out of doing more bastard DIY tomorrow hopefully I'll get it lashed back together. Heres hoping!

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