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Posted

Hello Gang,

Want to strip wheels back to bare aluminum. Then paint.

 

Strip?

Shot blast?

Abrasive discs?

 

Then rattle can on some etch primer, top coat and petrol resistant lacquer?

 

If I wanted to spend extorsionate amounts of money, how much would sending them to a refurb place cost per wheel?

 

Anyone know anyone good in Essex?

 

Yes, they are Coupe wheels on a Multipla.

Yes, I do have issues.c1d90211e74b9c0db75a0e94d927491d.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

Wheels are about £50 per wheel to do right I believe.

 

Ball joint splitters: having used all three methods (Fork, mechanical and hammers - plural) I always found the mechanical ones the best so long as there is space, if the joint is fooked, use a fork and welt it or two hammers, I have never succeeded using just one. Belt it from both sides at the same type and the joint flies apart at the speed of light. Get it wrong and you fuck up twice as much at once !:)

 

But, then you have to realised I am seriously weedy and have weak wrists (ahh!) and the strength of an amoeba. 

Posted

Is it possible to get to a point where your vehicle is running and in first gear (without the clutch being used) but not actually moving? I've tried in a Nissan Navarra, whereby creeping up to (off road) junctions in first can almost do it, but obvs it always tries to carry on a little bit. If I did it on the exact right gradient, can I have it stationary in gear with clutch out?

Something has to have enough "give" to allow the engine to keep turning, so either a slippy clutch or icy road are the only ways it could be done.
Posted

Has anyone tried "night time driving" glasses with selective yellow lenses to counteract glare? Both the wife and I have tried anti-dazzle treatments and polarised lenses in our regular glasses and they've done bugger all

I use yellow lenses when cycling in sketchy light (dusk especially) and it definitely helps make things clearer and more defined.
  • Like 1
Posted

I also use yellow tinted glasses for night driving, especially at this time of year. Opticians will tell you that yellow tints will not enhance your vision, it is a psychological effect. But it definitely improves things for me. Make sure that the windscreen is not smeared or badly pitted, as this will spread the light from the lights of oncoming cars and produce a "white out" effect,

Posted

I also use yellow tinted glasses for night driving, especially at this time of year. Opticians will tell you that yellow tints will not enhance your vision, it is a psychological effect. But it definitely improves things for me. Make sure that the windscreen is not smeared or badly pitted, as this will spread the light from the lights of oncoming cars and produce a "white out" effect,

 

I do try and keep the screens on both cars clean both inside and out, the Corolla thankfully has quite a newish windscreen in it (18 months if that) with no scratches, and the Saab's a lot cleaner now I don't smoke. I'll see if I can get some clip ons and give them a whirl. No harm in trying

Posted

Electrical question.

 

Why is that the 'live' connection in a circuit gets hot (i.e. experiences resistance) whereas the 'neutral' does not? Surely an equal current is traveling in both, yet the neutral will just be at 0 volts.

 

I always assumed that resistive heating was proportional to current. Or have I completely got my wires twisted?

Posted

Returning to balljoint splitters, here's a pro-tip (from a rank amateur) for using the fork type.   

 

To avoid damaging the anti-dust boot, use tin snips to cut a big U shape from a bean tin.  Slide the U in around the bolt and use it to protect the rubber boot whilst you bash the fork in.  It also helps the fork slide in, which makes it much more effective.

 

Once you've finished with the tin U-shape, simply place it in your toolbox to be reminded of my tip every time you effortlessly slice your fingers open whilst groping around for other tools!

Posted

Electrical question.

 

Why is that the 'live' connection in a circuit gets hot (i.e. experiences resistance) whereas the 'neutral' does not? Surely an equal current is traveling in both, yet the neutral will just be at 0 volts.

 

I always assumed that resistive heating was proportional to current. Or have I completely got my wires twisted?

 

a neutral wire can overheat just as badly as a live wire can. if you say hook up a kettle and with 2.5Mm live wire but use speaker wire for your natural wire then the natural wire will overheat

 

I mean just look a Lightbulb for a good demonstration of that, its not like only live "half" of the filament is glowing if that makes sense :)

Posted

Electrical question.

 

Why is that the 'live' connection in a circuit gets hot (i.e. experiences resistance) whereas the 'neutral' does not? Surely an equal current is traveling in both, yet the neutral will just be at 0 volts.

 

I always assumed that resistive heating was proportional to current. Or have I completely got my wires twisted?

 

The return wire will have a lot less amps running through it. Whatever the circuit is powering will have used the amps up & amps are the reason the wire gets hot in that situation.

Posted

Erm, no it won't. The current is the same at all points (apart from where there's a bit in parallel when it adds up the same)

  • Like 3
Posted

 

 

Once you've finished with the tin U-shape, simply place it in your toolbox to be reminded of my tip every time you effortlessly slice your fingers open whilst groping around for a U-shaped piece of bean tin.

 

FTFY

Posted

Live tends to be the switched or protected with a fuse  side , so it has more joints which are more liable to have a problem ......

 

and yes neutral can burn as well given a chance ..

 

the same currant will flow in both wires , if it did not the safety trip would flick , as would think you are connected to the mains and diverting some of the current elsewhere

  • Like 1
Posted

Live tends to be the switched or protected with a fuse  side , so it has more joints which are more liable to have a problem ......

 

and yes neutral can burn as well given a chance ..

 

the same currant will flow in both wires , if it did not the safety trip would flick , as would think you are connected to the mains and diverting some of the current elsewhere

 

Sure exactly that's how an RCD works.

 

https://www.quora.com/If-a-neutral-wire-carrying-current-equal-to-live-wire-current-why-does-neutral-wire-have-a-lower-diameter-than-live-wire-in-any-system-And-why-does-live-wire-heat-up-more-if-both-are-carrying-the-same-current

 

...suggests it might just be the age of my autoshite style fan heater.

Posted

Has anyone tried "night time driving" glasses with selective yellow lenses to counteract glare? Both the wife and I have tried anti-dazzle treatments and polarised lenses in our regular glasses and they've done bugger all

Yes, after a recommendation from chase racer I bought a cheap pair of yellow lensed glasses from decathlon. A great help.

 

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/arenberg-cycling-sunglasses-category-1-yellow-id_8118519.html

  • Like 1
Posted

Having never taken one apart is there really some kind of foam stuff behind here on a Ka?

 

post-17845-0-19496900-1546817771_thumb.jpg

 

If there is, can it be removed in anyway so what's in the picture doesn't happen? I mean if it's trapped and there's cutting involved or can you just remove trim and stuff?

Posted

I think it’s because there’s just a few spotwelds holding the filler neck on, all the shit from the road gets flung round it and there’s usually just a coat of paint on it. So in short I’d think you’d need to take the arch spats off and Sean seal it properly. But by the looks of it it’s rotten anyway so I wouldn’t bother. You’d need to probably use panel adhesive instead of welding a patch in there anyway. One way or another it’s ££££ job to do properly.

  • Like 1
Posted

Volvo D5.

Trying to change the alternator pulley

Bent 2 spanners trying to undo it

Just a quicky lefty loosey or righty loosey on central bolt

Additionally torx 50 or M10 as both seem to fit

Cheers in advance

Posted

Normally the same way the pulley turns I think, so the drive of the belt keeps it tight.

Posted

Sometimes might be easier to take the alternator off to be able to properly lock the pulley in place while you undo the bolt.

Posted

I have a Gunsens Gas tester like the above. Seems more than adequate to me though it has been in the garage unused for years now. I did use it a lot though at one time. Seemed accurate though a little slow to react to changes.

 

Recommended! :)

  • Like 2
Posted

I think it’s because there’s just a few spotwelds holding the filler neck on, all the shit from the road gets flung round it and there’s usually just a coat of paint on it. So in short I’d think you’d need to take the arch spats off and Sean seal it properly. But by the looks of it it’s rotten anyway so I wouldn’t bother. You’d need to probably use panel adhesive instead of welding a patch in there anyway. One way or another it’s ££££ job to do properly.

Ok,thanks. Luckily that one isn't mine. Mines nowhere near as bad (as car as I can remember) and as it's off road I'd want to try and stop it getting like all the others if I could.

Posted

Do we ? What's it called ?

 

Possible test drive on Monday :)

Test drive done. Not impressed. It felt claustrophobic in there and the ride was meh, also performance was a lot less than I was expecting. Handling was a bit oversteary  too.

Think I'll stick to my French shite.

Posted

Colour tune is fine if you have great eyesight, the sun isn't shining and it is easy to see/get at the plugs. The other one you just stick the probe up the exhaust and let it tell you wat's what. I have both, and after getting the gas tester, never even looked at the other one again/

Posted

Colourtune is also fine unless your idle circuit is gunged up so the mixture doesn't change when you turn the screw.  As a student I spent ages attempting to discern a colour change on my mk1 Fiesta and it wasn't until I subsequently tried it on a carburetor that was working properly that I realised how it was meant to work.  It would probably have been more obvious with the Gastester, but by the time I got one of those everything had gone electronic!

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