Talbot Posted January 18, 2019 Posted January 18, 2019 Likely a gearbox mounted speed sensor if it's an early berlingoAh Yes, some more info about the car might be useful! It's a 2003 2.0hdi 90 with what looks very like a BE3/5 gearbox. I'm guessing the speed sensor would be screwed in on the diff housing. Will have a look on the spare gearbag I have... just wondered if anyone knew for sure how the system works.
Unclefester Posted January 18, 2019 Posted January 18, 2019 I have some experience as my Dad has had many Magnas over the years. been offerd one as a swap for my prelude import two years ago 3.0 auto with gas just not sure about them mitsisigma01 1
320touring Posted January 18, 2019 Posted January 18, 2019 Ah Yes, some more info about the car might be useful! It's a 2003 2.0hdi 90 with what looks very like a BE3/5 gearbox. I'm guessing the speed sensor would be screwed in on the diff housing. Will have a look on the spare gearbag I have... just wondered if anyone knew for sure how the system works.Have a look at the guide I posted to locate the sender if it is there.
loserone Posted January 18, 2019 Posted January 18, 2019 That Magna looks ace, would love to hear how you get on with it
MorrisItalSLX Posted January 18, 2019 Posted January 18, 2019 been offerd one as a swap for my prelude import two years ago 3.0 auto with gas just not sure about them They are very solid and reliable cars, designed for the Australian environment and built in Adelaide.That one appears to be the mid-range LS model.My friend has one with 350,000+ Kilometres on the clock and going strong.Parts availability is essentially non-existent in the UK, but readily and easily available in Australia.That being said, the 3.0 V6 was used in many other cars so mechanical parts should be available. Wiki: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_Magna#TL_/_KL Definiately worth looking into.
Unclefester Posted January 18, 2019 Posted January 18, 2019 Thanks buddy for the info parts were my concern amd just need to check about insurance being a import liked the idea of gas conversion. MorrisItalSLX 1
MorrisItalSLX Posted January 18, 2019 Posted January 18, 2019 Thanks buddy for the info parts were my concern amd just need to check about insurance being a import liked the idea of gas conversion. If you need help with parts than feel free to give me a bell, I'll take any excuse to go to the breakers yard! (This offer extends to any shitter in need of Australian based spares.) Sheefag and Saabnut 2
mitsisigma01 Posted January 18, 2019 Posted January 18, 2019 I still have my Sigma which I believe is the model before your Magna and apart from service parts , which are available from local motor factors , I haven't needed anything , she just keeps on rocking .Whereabouts is the Magna , I think it was on the market a couple of years ago up in Scotland
Unclefester Posted January 18, 2019 Posted January 18, 2019 I still have my Sigma which I believe is the model before your Magna and apart from service parts , which are available from local motor factors , I haven't needed anything , she just keeps on rocking .Whereabouts is the Magna , I think it was on the market a couple of years ago up in Scotland yes in Scotland
Eddie Honda Posted January 18, 2019 Posted January 18, 2019 Has anyone changed the spark plugs on a 1.6 petrol Juke. Do I really need to remove the radiator to allow room for the inlet manifold to come off? Really. Fucking Haynes book of lies is shit. Also anyone changed a pollen filter on one¿ again lies I doubt it's any worse than a 1.6 Note. A quick Google suggests some Jukes "3 of 4 plugs are easy / 1st plug located on the left side / remove the cast intake tube / less than 30 min from start to finish...". Note 1.6: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HrhY-x5z8EU If the cars are Coil over Plug, DON'T use a magnetic spark plug socket (like in the video). Use a crap rubber or proper metal spring clip one and get a decent skinny one that'll slip down a deep hole. Take me 30 mins to do a Honda Jizz, because 8 coils to pop off and 8 plugs to do and some covers and wiring crap to remove/push out of the way to get at things.
davehedgehog31 Posted January 18, 2019 Posted January 18, 2019 My white 405 is going in for MOT on Monday. I've noticed one of the rear doors doesn't open from inside, I'm going to attempt to rectify it, but is it still a failure if there's no back seat....?
Rocket88 Posted January 18, 2019 Posted January 18, 2019 2005 Kia Rio 1.3 pez........won't tick over when cold without revage........and then sometimes cuts out. hunts a bit when warm too....any suggestions. [i'm doing this diagnosis approx 160 miles from the car [Dad's old knacker]
taxi paul Posted January 18, 2019 Posted January 18, 2019 So a question for you electric types. I got a hotplate fryer thing for the garden. Thought it would be better than a barbecue. Anyway it arrives and it's a 3kw and doesn't have a plug. It just has 3 wires so needs wiring in. Does this need it's own ring or can I take a spur of a nearby socket and put a switched socket oon it for this to connect to. Thanks you.
DodgeRover Posted January 18, 2019 Posted January 18, 2019 Mitsubishi magma anyone had any experience with one Australian importWe had one in Aus they're ok. We looked at an estate here that needed some work, parts were OEM only nothing pattern was available for track rod ends etc but that was 10 years ago, these days I would just get posted from Aus.
JeeExEll Posted January 18, 2019 Posted January 18, 2019 So a question for you electric types. I got a hotplate fryer thing for the garden. Thought it would be better than a barbecue. Anyway it arrives and it's a 3kw and doesn't have a plug. It just has 3 wires so needs wiring in. Does this need it's own ring or can I take a spur of a nearby socket and put a switched socket oon it for this to connect to. Thanks you.3kW is slightly over 13A so hot plate fryer will blow the fuse in a 13A plugtop (maybe not immediately, but it will blow). About the same power as an immersion heater.You need a 16A single-phase round socket & round plug on the portable equipment. Ideally on it's own dedicated circuit back to the mains (in 2.5mm cable) protected by a 16A mcb and (definitely) an RCD if you don't have RCD protection already. Take this feed to a 20A master switch somewhere inside the house near where the outside socket is so you can isolate it when not used. Spurring 16A off the existing ring circuit is ok if the circuit is not heavily loaded, BUT you'd still need to downrate to a 16A circuit breaker at the point where you spur off the ring, and fit an RCD if the existing ring isn't RCD protected. (You can get combined kits in a plastic enclosure for use in shower installations). If you don't do this then all that's protecting against overload at the outdoor equipment or wiring is the 32A ring-circuit breaker, as there's no fuse inside a 16A round socket. Outdoor IP44 socket mounted on exterior wall, facing downwards obv. Available Screwfix or local electrical wholesalers, etc. etc. Not expensive. 16A outdoor plug, like caravan / campsite plug. That's ideal scenario, depends how easy it is to get a dedicated supply cable back to mains board. Nicola H 1
taxi paul Posted January 18, 2019 Posted January 18, 2019 Thank you very much jee. Beyond my capabilities to be fair. Luckily for me the thing arrived damaged, big dint in the hotplate. I have told them but they are asking what I want. To do. Think I shall send it back and stick to the smaller plug in hotplate. JeeExEll 1
JeeExEll Posted January 18, 2019 Posted January 18, 2019 ^ It would save a bit of work, esp if only used occasionally. taxi paul 1
Pillock Posted January 18, 2019 Posted January 18, 2019 3KW rating means it was most likely designed for 13A sockets.At "supposedly standard" 230V then pulling 3KW will indeed exceed 13A, but only by 40mA so not really worth fussing over.Most homes hover around 240V anyway at which point you're only on 12.5A. Kettles are usually 3KW. twosmoke300, Nicola H, Talbot and 1 other 4
Guest Hooli Posted January 18, 2019 Posted January 18, 2019 Kettles are usually 3KW. That was my thought too, then I checked mine & it's 2.2KW. I know with domestic water heaters for putting over sinks 3KW ones are sold as able to use a normal plug so I'd just run a spur & use it with a normal 3-pin plug. 2 core & earth 2x2.5mm2 for the spur is rated at 16amp so it'll be fine.
taxi paul Posted January 18, 2019 Posted January 18, 2019 OK all good stuff. Next question. Behind my gas cooker I have a electric cooker junction box, with a dedicated cooker switch on the wall. Would I be better running a spare off that to the garden purely for this grill thing.
tommytwo Posted January 18, 2019 Posted January 18, 2019 Anyone know if it is possible to lubricate the heater fan bearings on a Rover 820 without removing the motor? Looks like I have to remove the motor and take off the fan to get access to the motor bearings. Unless of course, you know different. I freed the motor a couple of weeks back but it is stuck again. Does not blow the fuse when it sticks but does give an electrickery burning smell. This maybe a question that Lord Sterling can answer.
JeeExEll Posted January 18, 2019 Posted January 18, 2019 OK all good stuff. Next question. Behind my gas cooker I have a electric cooker junction box, with a dedicated cooker switch on the wall. Would I be better running a spare off that to the garden purely for this grill thing.1. Do you have electric oven or hob connected to it at all?2. Unless your mains board is very recent you probably don't have RCD protection for cooker circuit itself. BUT, do you have RCD protection for other circuits (i.e. sockets, shower)?3. If RCD protected board, do you have 'spare' positions in the mains board on that side?
Pillock Posted January 18, 2019 Posted January 18, 2019 It would have to be a 13A fused spur otherwise you've only got a 32A breaker protecting it and if the hob fucks up, your weakest link becomes the cable. A fuse must always be rated lower than the cable it's protecting. I also think regs state a cooker circuit must only be used for a cooker. I know if we went out to install a cooker and the customer had wired their cooker hood into the circuit, it was a walk away. I'm not certified though so you might want to get advice from a sparky.
JeeExEll Posted January 18, 2019 Posted January 18, 2019 ^ If neither oven or hob are connected it would be ok to use the redundant circuit, provided it was clearly marked at the board. My thoughts were to swap it to the RCD side of the board (if there is one) and protect with 16A mcb. Can then feed the outside fryer appliance via a 2.5 from the old cooker outlet - preferably through a 16A exterior blue socket.In effect, the old 'cooker' circuit would become 'garden socket' circuit. I think the pins of a 13A plugtop would get hot quickly running at full 13A (assuming the fuse holds) and possibly fry the insides of a 13A socket. It may well work absolutely fine but instincts and previous experience say no and I personally wouldn't do it. I've seen sockets and spur points which look ok but have been crispy fried and melted inside, running hot but at just under the fuse tripping current. They fall to bits with you if you unscrew the face off the wall. Scary. (Maybe this should be continued in the Open Forums electrical thread?).
Talbot Posted January 18, 2019 Posted January 18, 2019 I think the pins of a 13A plugtop would get hot quickly running at full 13A (assuming the fuse holds) and possibly fry the insides of a 13A socket. A 13A switched fused spur is likely to get hot too. It may well work fine but instincts and previous experience say no. I find it makes a big difference what make the plug is. Some nasty cheap chineese plug that came on a set of fairy lights, instant melty-melty at anything over about 3A. A decent solid plug with brass pins (MK or other decent make) and it will hold 13A all day. Also, the hotplate in question is presumably thermostatic, and hence wouldn't be pulling all 13A all the time. a hotplate draing 3KW continuously would end up thermonuclear hot!
JeeExEll Posted January 18, 2019 Posted January 18, 2019 ^ Both points very true. Important to check / tighten domestic wiring connections to the socket or spur point too. As has been mentioned above, the hotplate is 'probably' designed to run off a 13A fuse but right at the very upper end of it's range. I'm maybe being a bit over-cautious but it's just the way I'd do the installation, 3kW 'feels' to be too much for a 13A plug or fused spur. I did this type of work for years for paying customers so always played safe and ran things well within their capabilities.
Pillock Posted January 18, 2019 Posted January 18, 2019 3KW is 13A, a 13A plug and fuse can run that continuously, not that it needs to for a hob. But yes, there's a non-car general question thread in the open forums and we should carry on there. Sorry, guilty as charged.
MorrisItalSLX Posted January 19, 2019 Posted January 19, 2019 My white 405 is going in for MOT on Monday. I've noticed one of the rear doors doesn't open from inside, I'm going to attempt to rectify it, but is it still a failure if there's no back seat....?Child lock on?
taxi paul Posted January 19, 2019 Posted January 19, 2019 OK thanks everyone. I think for me it's too much hassle. I shall probably offer it on here for free if anyone can make use of it or donate it to a good cause. Would have to be collected though has its bloody heavy.
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