DodgeRover Posted September 20, 2018 Posted September 20, 2018 My trailer has the usual slidey hitch for braking with the lock for reversing that has to be engaged manually because it's old, it has hydraulic brakes, Is this normal? Never seen the like before, so maybe I don't get out enough but it seems a bit wanky. The master cyl is obviously banjaxed so I'll throw one on and have a look in the hubs, but before I do I'd like to conform that this setup is Kosher and not some weird ex-airport / refinery / strange import that can never be road legal.If it works it's fine.
Guest Hooli Posted September 20, 2018 Posted September 20, 2018 9-5 turbo auto - has two fans strapped to back face - would be nice if it was compatible Won't fit sorry. Autos have an extra oil cooler on the driver's side for the gearbox than the manual rad lacks. That's why I've got the rad spare as my 9-5 is a turbo auto too.
Des Posted September 20, 2018 Posted September 20, 2018 Thanks for the reassurance chaps, I was concerned as hydraulic seems a bit overkill. Will be a right old game to maintain compared to the nice old coathanger wire and clevis joints of yore.
DSdriver Posted September 20, 2018 Posted September 20, 2018 Won't fit sorry. Autos have an extra oil cooler on the driver's side for the gearbox than the manual rad lacks. That's why I've got the rad spare as my 9-5 is a turbo auto too.That's a shame. I suppose changing the rad with the oil cooler attached becomes a messy oily job? So back to my original question:Saab estate has a slight weep from the radiator, looks like the plastic/metal interface. Do I use Kseal or something like Wynns radiator sealer?I have a random bottle of Kseal which is why I am asking
DodgyBastard Posted September 20, 2018 Posted September 20, 2018 A friend has offered me this 2.2 petrol safrane for £350.Anyone had one? Is it worth a try? Sent from my G3311 using Tapatalk GrumpiusMaximus, D Spares & Tyres and MorrisItalSLX 3
dozeydustman Posted September 20, 2018 Posted September 20, 2018 Grey key is a valet key not a master as far as I know, check to see if it opens the boot or glovebox, if not then it's a valet key, well that's the way it works on a Lexus which is just a posh Toyota. We're talking 19 year old baSE model corolla. Grey key does everything the 2 black keys does - ignition, boot & doors.
bramz7 Posted September 20, 2018 Posted September 20, 2018 A friend has offered me this 2.2 petrol safrane for £350.Anyone had one? Is it worth a try? Sent from my G3311 using TapatalkYo FOAD,that's the Safrane that was in Lovejoy once. They're pretty good. Not fast, drink a fair bit of fuel but comfy and quite direct handling, I liked mine. Get it. DodgyBastard 1
tooSavvy Posted September 20, 2018 Posted September 20, 2018 I'm looking to source a 'mid section' T5 exhaust box. Bosal 281-475 Anyone in the trade could find an unloved orphan/NOS dusty one for a good price *less than Mallys cracker there*
Mally Posted September 20, 2018 Posted September 20, 2018 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EEC-Exhaust-Silencer-EVW573-BRAND-NEW-GENUINE-5-YEAR-WARRANTY/163133252146?hash=item25fb7fe232:g:fzMAAOSwQbNbPPFa tooSavvy 1
Mike D Posted September 20, 2018 Posted September 20, 2018 I need to change the Clutch on my E46 330ci - any recommendations as to make? Any brands to avoid? Cheers!
sierraman Posted September 20, 2018 Posted September 20, 2018 I’m in probably one of the select band of people who have driven a Safrane. I think the later ones are a lot better, the cable shift wasn’t highly praised. The one I drove was a 2.0 I think, nice car, a lot better than you’d have given one credit for. Parts are difficult to find though.
sierraman Posted September 20, 2018 Posted September 20, 2018 I need to change the Clutch on my E46 330ci - any recommendations as to make? Any brands to avoid? Cheers! Transmech. Unless you like taking gearboxes out frequently.
The Moog Posted September 21, 2018 Posted September 21, 2018 The 406 is going through a stage of locking the central locking then unlocking it straight away. It only has a key, no remote. Been round and adjusted all the striker plates, tried manually locking all the doors but then still does it. Any ideas of fix?
davehedgehog31 Posted September 21, 2018 Posted September 21, 2018 The 406 is going through a stage of locking the central locking then unlocking it straight away. It only has a key, no remote. Been round and adjusted all the striker plates, tried manually locking all the doors but then still does it. Any ideas of fix? Remove fuse for central locking.
Mike D Posted September 21, 2018 Posted September 21, 2018 Transmech. Unless you like taking gearboxes out frequently. Is that who to avoid? I assume an LUK one should be ok?
The Moog Posted September 21, 2018 Posted September 21, 2018 Remove fuse for central locking.It is the fuse for about 8 things including lights otherwise I would. davehedgehog31 1
Wingz123 Posted September 21, 2018 Posted September 21, 2018 Is that who to avoid? I assume an LUK one should be ok?I replaced mine with an LUK clutch - I have an e46 328ci...
Honey Badger Posted September 21, 2018 Posted September 21, 2018 We're talking 19 year old baSE model corolla. Grey key does everything the 2 black keys does - ignition, boot & doors. It will, however if you lock the boot or glove box with the black Key then try to open it with the grey it wont do it, doesn't matter how old the car is or the spec it's just something Toyota do. Toyota dont give out master keys like the red Honda Keys as far as I know.
Guest Hooli Posted September 21, 2018 Posted September 21, 2018 The 406 is going through a stage of locking the central locking then unlocking it straight away. It only has a key, no remote. Been round and adjusted all the striker plates, tried manually locking all the doors but then still does it. Any ideas of fix? Lube the locks and mechs. With a lot of central locking systems if one doesn't quite seat properly at the end of it's travel it'll not flick a microswitch to turn the solenoid off, so they fail back to unlocked to prevent it burning out. Wingz123 1
Wingz123 Posted September 21, 2018 Posted September 21, 2018 206’s a favourite for this too ^ The Moog 1
Richard Posted September 21, 2018 Posted September 21, 2018 I would unplug one door at a time to see which one is causing the trouble. The Moog 1
mitsisigma01 Posted September 21, 2018 Posted September 21, 2018 On my Mitsi Sigma it is doing the same . I have found that when the lights on the door card are working the locks don't fk about but a lot of the time it relocks so fast you don't have any time to pull the door handle. It seems that where the wiring goes through the door from the door pillar it has either gone brittle or chafed through or the multi pins are crap
tooSavvy Posted September 21, 2018 Posted September 21, 2018 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EEC-Exhaust-Silencer-EVW573-BRAND-NEW-GENUINE-5-YEAR-WARRANTY/163133252146?hash=item25fb7fe232:g:fzMAAOSwQbNbPPFa..... Due 28th cheers
Tickman Posted September 21, 2018 Posted September 21, 2018 I have a noisy rear wheel bearing on the 4wd Octavia. This comes up as the correct part. I don't have a press. Am I going to be able to do it without wanting to kill myself? I guess I need to get the whole hub off the car. I have watched the front wheel bearing video (as it is the same bearing) and the just take the hub off!
Wingz123 Posted September 21, 2018 Posted September 21, 2018 Yes hub off then can you find socket same size and bash it out then with uniform pressure applied to the socket and new bearing hit it back in? That is if you don’t have access to a press....? Tickman 1
Richard Posted September 21, 2018 Posted September 21, 2018 All things considered I'd just remove the complete hub and take it to a friendly garage. It can be done without a press but it's no fun at all and you do risk buggering the new bearing with all the violence. twosmoke300, Lacquer Peel, Tickman and 1 other 4
twosmoke300 Posted September 21, 2018 Posted September 21, 2018 Yes hub off then can you find socket same size and bash it out then with uniform pressure applied to the socket and new bearing hit it back in? That is if you don’t have access to a press....? Id say you have more chance of shitting in the queens handbag than doing it that way Lacquer Peel, Tickman and Christine 3
Wingz123 Posted September 21, 2018 Posted September 21, 2018 Id say you have more chance of shitting in the queens handbag than doing it that way Did it this way before but put a piece of wood between the socket and hub so that I didn’t get it stuck half in or wedged half in and stuck. Plenty of grease and went in after a few whacks. Car was B5 Passat oldcars 1
scdan4 Posted September 21, 2018 Posted September 21, 2018 The 406 is going through a stage of locking the central locking then unlocking it straight away. It only has a key, no remote. Been round and adjusted all the striker plates, tried manually locking all the doors but then still does it. Any ideas of fix?There’s a multi plug in the side of one of the foot wells that gets wet and causes all sorts of havoc with the locking. The Moog 1
oldcars Posted September 21, 2018 Posted September 21, 2018 Did it this way before but put a piece of wood between the socket and handbag so that I didn’t get it stuck half in or wedged half in and stuck. fify catsinthewelder 1
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