dozeydustman Posted September 11, 2018 Posted September 11, 2018 Best way to get a 13mm nut with a pissed/stripped thread off an alternator terminal that just turns and turns and turns ad infinitum? One which won't just slide off with the assistance of a screwdriver or some long nosed pliers. I really don't want to cut the cable, fit a new eye & take the alternator off the car if possible.
egg Posted September 11, 2018 Posted September 11, 2018 Look for wires heading down that way, no wires means no sensor. Or if they are the same apart from that, get the sensor one & the most you'll need to do is get a bolt the right size & wind it in with some gunk on it to seal it. Cheers, in a case of 'look before you post' it's bloody obvious it does have the sensor!! AMC Rebel 1
Guest Hooli Posted September 11, 2018 Posted September 11, 2018 Best way to get a 13mm nut with a pissed/stripped thread off an alternator terminal that just turns and turns and turns ad infinitum? One which won't just slide off with the assistance of a screwdriver or some long nosed pliers. I really don't want to cut the cable, fit a new eye & take the alternator off the car if possible. Nut splitter?
Crispian_J_Hotson Posted September 11, 2018 Posted September 11, 2018 Have you tried levering the nut slightly whilst undoing it? Sometimes it can catch the thread. scdan4 and Mally 2
richardthestag Posted September 11, 2018 Posted September 11, 2018 Polo 9N / Mk4 2002 amber steering light on the dash. Been at it with a couple of OBD2 readers and neither has picked up an error code. Is that right for one of these? Before I start hacking it around will check battery condition as pump needs a lot of amps. What then? guessing that the steering angle sensor is behind the steering wheel and the pump I already spied under the battery
dozeydustman Posted September 11, 2018 Posted September 11, 2018 Nut splitter? Have you tried levering the nut slightly whilst undoing it? Sometimes it can catch the thread. Lack of space around the terminal and fat hands prevent decent space. Not helped with various wiring looms and pipes getting in the way. The nut does start catching then it slips. As you can probably see in the pic the internal thread of the nut is completely collapsed.
dozeydustman Posted September 11, 2018 Posted September 11, 2018 And another question. The Toyota has 3 keys - 2 black and one pale grey. Is the grey one a "master" key of some description?
Kiltox Posted September 11, 2018 Posted September 11, 2018 And another question. The Toyota has 3 keys - 2 black and one pale grey. Is the grey one a "master" key of some description?As far as I can remember yes it is. Same as a red key on a Ford I think. Keep it safe.
dozeydustman Posted September 11, 2018 Posted September 11, 2018 As far as I can remember yes it is. Same as a red key on a Ford I think. Keep it safe. Looks like Madam will have my key to it then. The wife & stepdaughter misplace their keys more so often...
Crispian_J_Hotson Posted September 11, 2018 Posted September 11, 2018 Youll probably know but check to see if you can use that key to start the car.
Crispian_J_Hotson Posted September 11, 2018 Posted September 11, 2018 If I couldn't get the lowest side packed out by either slotting a small screw driver up behind it or some thing similar then I'd be considering taking it off to drop it down for better access to the terminal. Make sure the battery is disconnected!
twosmoke300 Posted September 11, 2018 Posted September 11, 2018 Ref the polo . Obd readers only read engine related stuff not pas . Check the battery , charge rate and the strip fuses / leads near the battery ( strip fuse for epas can crack . Otherwise it’s a proper plug in job . Usually the epas unit under the lh headlamp all corroded and wet tho richardthestag 1
dozeydustman Posted September 11, 2018 Posted September 11, 2018 Youll probably know but check to see if you can use that key to start the car. Yeah it starts the car. Probably need it if there's any major work done to the engine in the future. I don't think it has an immobiliser, but it might do. If I couldn't get the lowest side packed out by either slotting a small screw driver up behind it or some thing similar then I'd be considering taking it off to drop it down for better access to the terminal. Make sure the battery is disconnected! Looks like that's the only way I can do it then. I didn't want to go down that route as it means removing half the bleeding crap in the engine bay (Air filter, MAF sensor, some pipework) then I'll have to borrow some star drive sockets from a bloke at work or my nephew to get the thing off. Unless ultra-thin nut splitters are available? I don't think I can get the back cover off the alternator while it's in situ, which would make getting to things a hell of a lot easier, possibly give me the room to get a normal size nut splitter on the terminal.
Guest Hooli Posted September 11, 2018 Posted September 11, 2018 Lack of space around the terminal and fat hands prevent decent space. Not helped with various wiring looms and pipes getting in the way. The nut does start catching then it slips. As you can probably see in the pic the internal thread of the nut is completely collapsed. IMG_6398.JPG Dremel & try to slice the side off the nut? I'd probably just take it off to be safe though.
Pillock Posted September 11, 2018 Posted September 11, 2018 Is this possible with the use of a wire from my phone to the tv? And if so which wire? So I have an iphone 5. I also have two standard lcd tele’s. Neither of these are smart tv’s. How would I go about getting youtube from my phone to play on the tv? Chromecast, which will turn your TV into a Smart TV, and then just stream wirelessly. They're about £30 and they work far, far better than any rubbish "Android TV" box (which are never actually Android TV, but just Android running on a shit old little computer rammed with malware) Exiled_Tat_Gatherer, garethj, Wingz123 and 2 others 5
Wingz123 Posted September 12, 2018 Posted September 12, 2018 Thanks for the above responses... Another wuestion not relating to the above.....what would be the correct grade of oil for my 2007 Fiesta 1.6 TDCi (which I am lead to believe is the 1.6 HDi engine).... I know these engines are quite fussy when it comes to oil and throw turbos for a pastime so just wondering what the correct grade is.... From memory I seem to think it is 0w30 or 0w40....could someone please confirm? Thanks, James
dozeydustman Posted September 12, 2018 Posted September 12, 2018 Wingz - some DVD and Bluray players have an Apple compatible screen mirroring mode (AirPlay) if they’re connected to your wifi. Wingz123 1
oldcars Posted September 12, 2018 Posted September 12, 2018 Nut splitter?I did that the other week, stood on the garden rake. Wingz123, drivewaymyway, Pillock and 3 others 6
tobyd Posted September 12, 2018 Posted September 12, 2018 I have a starter relay. I think it is kaput. Its for a bike With 12v on one terminal, other terminal to a 12v motor, other motor terminal to ground. if I apply 12v to the trigger wire I am expecting it to click and current to flow to the motor and it to turn. alas, it does not. it does turn if I bridge the two solenoid terminals. Is this indicative of it being broken?
steveo3002 Posted September 12, 2018 Posted September 12, 2018 I have a starter relay. I think it is kaput. Its for a bike With 12v on one terminal, other terminal to a 12v motor, other motor terminal to ground. if I apply 12v to the trigger wire I am expecting it to click and current to flow to the motor and it to turn. alas, it does not. it does turn if I bridge the two solenoid terminals. Is this indicative of it being broken?sounds about right....could use a length of wire with a spade crimped on each end to bridge the wiring to see if it works.
twosmoke300 Posted September 12, 2018 Posted September 12, 2018 You can power the exciter terminals of most relays with a 9v pp3 battery if it helps
Guest Hooli Posted September 12, 2018 Posted September 12, 2018 I have a starter relay. I think it is kaput. Its for a bike With 12v on one terminal, other terminal to a 12v motor, other motor terminal to ground. if I apply 12v to the trigger wire I am expecting it to click and current to flow to the motor and it to turn. alas, it does not. it does turn if I bridge the two solenoid terminals. Is this indicative of it being broken? Aye, provided the fourth terminal is earthed so the trigger circuit can complete.
tobyd Posted September 12, 2018 Posted September 12, 2018 I don't think there is a forth terminal - the housing sits in a rubber shell and there is just battery to terminal 1, terminal 2 to starter and starter switch (via safety relay) to trigger. I'd assumed the trigger earths through the starter connection? Even with the casing earthed it doesn't fire so i'm going to say its deaded and get a replacement. cheers for confirming logic though!
Guest Hooli Posted September 12, 2018 Posted September 12, 2018 Oh three terminal relays, voodoo! (I'd forgot about them)
Asimo Posted September 12, 2018 Posted September 12, 2018 Lack of space around the terminal and fat hands prevent decent space. Not helped with various wiring looms and pipes getting in the way. The nut does start catching then it slips. As you can probably see in the pic the internal thread of the nut is completely collapsed. IMG_6398.JPG Are you trying to remove the lead or to tighten up on the terminal? If the latter, another nut should do, the stripped nut isn't going to stop new nut clamping the terminal. Anyway, it should be a brass nut so quite weak, mole grips may crush it enough to wind it off, or even split it.
artdjones Posted September 13, 2018 Posted September 13, 2018 Thanks for the above responses... Another wuestion not relating to the above.....what would be the correct grade of oil for my 2007 Fiesta 1.6 TDCi (which I am lead to believe is the 1.6 HDi engine).... I know these engines are quite fussy when it comes to oil and throw turbos for a pastime so just wondering what the correct grade is.... From memory I seem to think it is 0w30 or 0w40....could someone please confirm? Thanks, JamesIt's a 5w30.The best oil for this engine is Total Ineo ECS.That's the one Total developed with PSA for this engine.
dozeydustman Posted September 13, 2018 Posted September 13, 2018 Are you trying to remove the lead or to tighten up on the terminal? If the latter, another nut should do, the stripped nut isn't going to stop new nut clamping the terminal. Anyway, it should be a brass nut so quite weak, mole grips may crush it enough to wind it off, or even split it.Trying to wind it off as the internal thread has collapsed. It has jammed on the terminal leaving the lead terminal loose. Got a feeling this was the initial poor charging problem in the first place, after I put the alternator on in December last year the car went to a garage to have other jobs done which involved removing the alternator from the car. Just wondering if garage has overtightened it, as I only did it up finger tight then about 1/8turn with the ratchet.
stillOrange Posted September 13, 2018 Posted September 13, 2018 Would anyone here like to fix and put back on the road an old Fiat/Seat I've hidden away? Obviously I would transport it to your location and pay for your time, parts and all.
Wingz123 Posted September 13, 2018 Posted September 13, 2018 Would anyone here like to fix and put back on the road an old Fiat/Seat I've hidden away? Obviously I would transport it to your location and pay for your time, parts and all.What is required to get it back on the road?
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