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Everything posted by tobyd

  1. Perhaps take the rocker off and observe which cylinders are closed in relation to where the rotor arm is as you turn the engine - if you've got fuel and a spark then unless there is no compression (or the spark is miles off) it should make a least a sad wump if not a proper bang.
  2. What are the measurements over all 4 EX valves? if one is slack or another is loose or slightly over you might be able to swap them around to get them all to at least minimum spec? The size should be printed on the shim unless it went in print-side-up in which case its long gone. I'm pretty sure 2.68 is just 2.68mm (rather than 2.68 being some product code) though so some cheapo vernier calipers should get you most of the way there. I don't recall if i did but I may have written do the valve shims on the new* engine before it went in and written down the sizes of whats currently in there on a scrap of paper in the documents.
  3. There were some spare shims in the box o' spares i believe? unless none of them are any good?
  4. Economy gauge and ambient* temperature! I thought you only got those on a GLT model. I retrofitted them to a 1.4 i had yonks ago - the economy gauge was happiest at higher than NSL which never worked out to be economical... I often wondered how hard it would be to retrofit the SPI from a Renault 19 to one of these engines. Good work all the same!
  5. https://www.ipswichstar.co.uk/news/ipswich-volvo-taxi-driver-john-winlow-update-2884898 Chap sacked off taxiing to join the 'Cru
  6. I'm deeply sad but, the way lines flow around the door handle and carries on backwards pleases my peepers.
  7. A replacement breather seems to be harder to get than it should be so in the interrim i've made a seamless* repair with some heatshrink
  8. Put 60 or so miles on this now and its holding its coolant and the joint / rest of the block is dry so tentative that thats that. The car smells of diesel when idling or slowing / in slow traffic which isn't great for the old lungs. I'd noted that a breather pipe was a bit suspicious in its level of grot for being no where near anything that makes grot and lo and behold. breather pipe from the rocker cover to the intake (post MAF for bonus points) is a bit haggard. Hopefully that'll see the smell gone and empeegees skyrocket. exciting times indeed.
  9. Some minor fiddling and amateurism. When i stripped and cleaned the carbs i was puzzled that one of them had the mixture screw out at 4 turns and the other at 3 turns. "thats far too much" i thought i set them both to 2 which the bike hated. 3 was better but it was still a bit rough at minimal throttle, opened the front one out to 3.5 and it was better so given that another quarter turn. Also checked the jet needle position. No idea how i'd missed it before but it was at position 2 (i.e on the lean side). Set this back to the middle position and will check it later on. What i'm not sure about is why it ran ok with the needles in this position before including a k&n filter - i'd have expected that to run hopelessly lean? unless various other air jets were blocked up countering it out? who knows.
  10. Quick scamper round the block, gauge up to the middle the join is dry so maybe it's ok now? Will go on a longer run somewhere in the week and see how it gets on with some A roads.
  11. Had a hangover yesterday so didn't do anything but today, with a yellow warning of rain, i took on the water leak. I might still be hungover as all the photos are focussed on the wrong thing. any how, this rust 'n' black bit is the old flange, its just three 10mm nuts and pops out. access is pretty crap though as its below the vacuum pump at the back in the middle of the engine so much stretching was required. I don't want to jump to conclusions but the presence of bathroom sealant is usually a good indication that this is completely factory... It absolutely wouldn't budge from the coupler for whatever it is attached too, there is a little spring clip i removed but it in the end pried it out like a fucking savage. Looks like the inner lip has seen better days. not liking that mark poorly circled in red, the coupler this fits into is only available, from vw anyway, as part of a larger assembly and they don't sell the oring that lives in there separately because of course they don't. autodoc do one so if leaks i'll swap it out with one of those. anyhow, the new flange fitted into the old coupler without any force (which concerns me) and i've sprung-clipped it back and finger tightened the flange nuts down. Its now absolutely hammering down so i'll finish it all up later or tomorrow.
  12. Its just off idle thats where its the worst, when you are just ambling along its rough as. the idle is smooth and giving it the beans is ok but throttle just slightly on is horrible. Maybe i dislodged some crap and now the needle is wandering all over the place, will investigate. 800s look like a decent proposition so will check out one at the nearby bike shop - they had one in last time i was there, didn't have the time to make enquiries. Wouldn't be the end of the world to have to have them service it, I'd just feel better about being able to do it myself.
  13. My SV is being a dick, it started smelling of petrol a bit when i'd take the cover off and generally when stationary and warm, smelt like it was running rich but otherwise was ok. Stripped the carbs down, cleaned all the jets through, all the tiny air-correction nozzles, new gaskets, new float seats and needles and now it runs like a sack of crap. Carb sync is fine, removed a washer from the needle jet (different carbs to yours @Jerzy Woking, the linkage on that one had, fairly, worn a bit after 60k) ao its at about stock now, no exhaust smell, no hanging idle just running rough. Swapped the float arrangement over with the spare carb and put a stock airfilter back on and will see what its like tomorrow or over the weekend. real question though. VFR800s. Any experience? I like that they have fairings, are powerful enough without being silly but aren't really a sport bike but they appear unservicable and the single-swing-arm arrangement looks like it isn't very clever.
  14. That one of mine hasn't made it further than the floor by the front door if you wanted it back for more, possibly inaccurate, readings?
  15. did you find out if there was any compression in the end?
  16. So next on the fixing things front is the coolant leak. Chuckles here is all wet (doesn't smell like diesel), but this carries on onto the bellhousing and into the clutch (clutch judder cause? i doubt it). The flange mates with a receiver bit that is attached to a hose. The plan is to replace just this plastic section - need to check that the replacement actually comes with the oring but i think this should be doable. Access is pretty sad though. This whole thing forms parts of a larger assembly but that seems fairly dry so i'll leave alone.
  17. took it out earlier and under boost there was a whining noise. not ideal. came home. googled the answer and one was loose manifold bolts. this reminded me i may have forgotten to tighten the EGR bolts at the EGR itself. lo and behold they were finger tight. knipped up and whine gone. boost is back car seems to accelerate fine and managed a smoky 1st gear getaway to the grimace of the environment. Probably should look at that water leak now...
  18. Put the rest of it back together and it started and seems alright. Will take it for a drive tomorrow to see if it grenades.
  19. Lashed the heavy bits back on with new gaskets so all thats left is the airbox and pipework. had a brief chat with a neighbour who commented that he didn't much like Edd China on Wheeler Dealers and that Mike was much more fun. takes all sorts i suppose.
  20. ^^ I have bought rather too much black silicone vacuum hose in a few dimensions so shout if you'd like some bunged in the post. The weather this weekend has been rather tempramental some haven't done a lot. All the gaskets arrived so its ready to go back on the car and i cleaned up the intake manifold as best i can without having access to a bathtub full of boiling brake cleaner (i assume this is what you are mean't to use?) Cleaned up the side of the head and scraped out some more clag and vacuumed out anything loose so hopefully it'll be alright. I don't think it was too badly caked up in there, plenty of crud but not enough to make me think it was being strangled. Replaced all the vac hoses i could see. Weather looks better in the week so might tackle the job in parts and get the exhaust side bolted back up. Then controller bits. then intake. over lunchtimes and evenings. Haven't yet tested the n75 controller but i think thats easily doable in-situ.
  21. Mine didn't throw up the EML but the turbo just stopped turboing after keeping my foot down for a few hundred meters. There was a fault code about it in the memory but no dashboard indication. I understand cycling the engine makes it go away until the fault re-occurs. If you can get to the turbo you should be able to move the actuator up and down and it should have about 10mm of movement, if it doesn't (and don't force it) then it might be clagged up? Progress without the turbo is slow indeed. again, depending on access / visibility / having a vacuum pump you can put vacuum over the actuator and the adjuster should move to the stop pin and back. Not sure what turbos went on the polo but i'd assume its all the same sort of thing on a PD diesel?
  22. i put a vacuum over this and it stays put, has a full range of motion. The vacuum didn't last forever but the hoses were cobbled together and just jammed in one-another so might have been leaking a bit from that. Put everything back together on the turbo and the VNT mechanism moves from rest to the stop cleanly so once the exhaust gaskets arrive and it's not going to be pouring with rain i'll bang it back together and see what happens. Haven't checked the N75 with the vacuum pump yet but have ordered some silicone vacuum hose to replace the old ones with. Need to take a look at the water leak situation too but works been rather draining of late. pretty sure its just going to be 1 or both of some cheapo gaskets but need to make sure its not borked pipes first.
  23. I considered this approach but it seems a bit hit-n-miss or might work for a bit then need doing in the pouring rain on christmas eve with a gun to my head. and since i don't have anywhere to be at the moment taking it all apart and cleaning it out properly seemed to be a more comprehensive solution. of course, if it'd snapped every bolt on the way i wouldn't be saying that.
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