sierraman Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 If you need to floor the clutch it isn't engaging properly, 3/4 I'd say from rest and 2/3 while driving should be sufficient. cpjitservices 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpjitservices Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 If you need to floor the clutch it isn't engaging properly, 3/4 I'd say from rest and 2/3 while driving should be sufficient.Ive often thought this, was just a discussion I was having - I was in the car with a colleague and every time he changed gear foot was to the floor. How he was taught I guess Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 Pump it out till it falls out & have a look. It's often just corrosion behind a seal that pushes the seal out till it jams the piston. drum 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colnerov Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 Hi, You press the clutch to disengage the drive so you can change gear, so as far as is necessary is sufficient. Colin Nicola H and cpjitservices 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacquer Peel Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 How do you drive a car? BeEP 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egg Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 If you imported an electric car from, say, Japan, would it have these the right errr 'connectors' to work on the UK grid? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Travel plug? Good question though, one I've never seen asked before either. Would a leccy car here even be chargable in frogshire? tooSavvy and DeeJay 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrDuke Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 If an auto's parked on a slight slope (in 'P' obv) without the handbrake on, will it knacker the 'box in short order, as Fatha_Duke used to warn me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Nah it's fine. The parking pawl is a pretty tough thing. The yanks use P all the time rather than the handbrake. Only thing is it does require quite a bit of force if the pawl is under tension. An example of a parking pawl that locks the drivetrain: Stanky, MrDuke and Bobthebeard 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stanky Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 10/10 for diagrams. my understanding of automatic gearboxes is now vastly improved. Its only 'mostly' magic now chaseracer, Slowsilver and The Moog 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 However some boxes are quite prone to snapping the pawl if hit when parked in P, using the handbrake helps protect them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveo3002 Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 ive heard they make a nasty noise if the uneducated try and move to park while the car is still moving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somewhatfoolish Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 If you imported an electric car from, say, Japan, would it have these the right errr 'connectors' to work on the UK grid?No. Japanese electricity goes from side to side.* *Not really; the plug may need swapping, although it's possible that cars with high power charging may have a standard IEC round plug on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TataBobu Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Front brake calliper on the Santa Fe has one siezed piston. When I say siezed, I mean that while it will push out using the brake pedal, it won't fully retract. Think I've knackered my braking winding in tool trying to push the piston in. The pad has worn at an angle as it is a twin pot. Question is, is it worth trying to fix this with a new piston and seal kit. It would certainly be much cheaper than a new caliper.Will I have to ream out the cylinder and is it likely I'll end up with brake fluid pishing out and a trail of Mother Theresas in my wake? Sounds more like the rubber line that goes to the caliper is full of gunk. Clamp the rubber thing that goes to the caliper in question, unscrew it from the caliper and take said caliper apart. If the piston is fine, change both hoses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drum Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Sounds more like the rubber line that goes to the caliper is full of gunk. Clamp the rubber thing that goes to the caliper in question, unscrew it from the caliper and take said caliper apart. If the piston is fine, change both hoses.By "rubber thing" are you referring to the flexi hose? I would have thought both pistons would be equally affected if it was the hose. One piston was seized and needed a fair press on the brake pedal, while the other was clamped, to shift it. A new piston and seal kit should arrive today, so hopefully just a corroded piston. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Spares & Tyres Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Fuel filter on an XUD The four Allen key, simple to change one Car has been down on power so changed filter. However the metal cap on the bottom of the filter had fallen off and didn't come out with the filter, I had to remove it separately. The car is still down on power. Does this mean bits of crap have now gone into the pump? I'm assuming it does as the fuel goes in top of the housing and out the bottom... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacquer Peel Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Fuel feed goes in at the bottom of the housing, exits at the top.Those filter housings are pretty poor especially if you're running on alternative fuels.The hoses and clips can allow air ingress too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgeRover Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Check for mesh filters in the banjo bolts, these clog easily. D Spares & Tyres 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacquer Peel Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Never seen one on an XUD, only on Japanese diesels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John F Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 somewhatfoolish, on 04 Oct 2017 - 9:53 PM, said:somewhatfoolish, on 04 Oct 2017 - 9:53 PM, said:somewhatfoolish, on 04 Oct 2017 - 9:53 PM, said:No. Japanese electricity goes from side to side.* *Not really; the plug may need swapping, although it's possible that cars with high power charging may have a standard IEC round plug on. The Japs *might* use the same type of mains plug as the septics, as this handy chart illustrates - although I'm not convinced it's 100% correct. (... awaits mildly racist comment that they should really use type I...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somewhatfoolish Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Type A and B start smoking like a beagle at Philip Morris if you try and shove more than 10 amps through them; the world of car charging leads has been filled with wanky proprietary tossbag plugs designed by handless CAD monkeys that live in dungeons and get paid peanuts rather than agree a sensible standard format for everyone to use. The Tesla offering does win on aesthetics though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiltox Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Have they learnt nothing from mobile phone chargers?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrDuke Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 No, the phone charger approach would be for each car company to make its own power leads with completely unique plugs, then charge you £5000 to install the correct socket at your house, after you've bought the car. Then change the design again, every 2 years, and repeat. somewhatfoolish, Jerzy Woking and Kiltox 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy18s Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Y tho? egg and Lacquer Peel 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scdan4 Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 checked the gearbox oil level for the first time today. I dipped it 3 or 4 times. It is definitely at that level. It's done over 20K in my ownership and god knows how long before, so clearly it's not about to explode. should I use this as an excuse to finally buy a pela and just suck some out or should I just leave well alone on the basis of if it ain't broke... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 What car+box? Guessing auto? Does the fluid temp match correctly for measuring it off that marker? scdan4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub2006 Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Guess thats checked after being run too? If i check mine when still quite warm but been stood it reads higher. To check mine it says to go for a short drive so runs through gears. scdan4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 I have vibration problem with my 307, once you get above 65 you get a pulsing vibration, if feels like the front wheels aren't balanced as the steering wheel shakes. However this comes and goes once every five seconds, so if you let go of the wheel and watch it you can actually see it start to shake then stop then shake again, every five seconds. I tried taking it out of gear and coasting but it still does the same thing. Anyone know what it might be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 checked the gearbox oil level for the first time today. DSC_0431.JPG I dipped it 3 or 4 times. It is definitely at that level. It's done over 20K in my ownership and god knows how long before, so clearly it's not about to explode. should I use this as an excuse to finally buy a pela and just suck some out or should I just leave well alone on the basis of if it ain't broke... My volvo did something similar when you tried to read the gearbox level, the first time you removed the dipstick you would get a proper reading after that it would appear to be overfilled. I thought it might be something to do with fluid getting pulled up the dipstick tube as you remove the dipstick and then coating the dipstick on further readings. Is the first reading high as well? scdan4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtriple Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 Checking gearbox oil on the BGD is a nightmare: it has to have done 20 miles... exactly before it will give an accurate reading. However, if you start it and let it idle from cold and dip it then, the oil level is correct (doing it properly) if the level on the stick is on or about the 'min' level. This was told to me by the specialist and I tried it and he was right. Apparently ATF swells/grows/gets bigger at higher temps but to high and it froths and gives a false reading. scdan4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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