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Posted

You would struggle to get a useable 110 for 2.5k ! Unless you manage to get one word of mouth but on the open market - no chance

Posted

Thanks, I feared this was a moon on a stick type of request. Disco it might just be then,

Posted

Windscreen repair kits...

 

In my experience they follow the Haynes bodywork page paradigm : your repair will never be anywhere as good as in the pictures.

 

Is there a trick to using them, that I am unaware of ?

Posted

My hand me down 2005 Lexus RX300 has a rear outer light bulb out, which appears to be a LED bulb.

 

I've had a trawl online and I don't appear to be able to find a replacement from the usual places. Is this a Lexus only part and will I have to assume the position when I find out how much it costs? 

 

Have I mentioned I don't actually like the fucking thing and I'm spending far too much time looking at Honda Legends and Accord Coupes than is healthy, why the fuck did I sell mine......

Posted

What's the best way to remove the round bushes on a Peugeot / Citroën wishbone? Yeah I know I should have bought new control arms with bushes but I have the new bushes now.

Burning them didn't work.

They're a bit of a pain, but the way that I do them is to burn the insides out, use a hacksaw through the middle to cut through the outer bush casing and then using a cold chisel and hammer knock the lips inwards and collapse the casing in on itself. You can now use the normal socket, nut and bolt trick to pull them both out as one.

 

That said, those front bushes rarely fail in my experience - the issue is almost always the P-bush at the rear.

Posted

They're okay on the offside but one of the nearside ones is gubbed. I might just leave the offside ones.

Posted

This is definitely a stupid question. I've always fancied a 110 defender. There, I've said it. Probably since Brian the builder owned two and lived across the road from a 9 year old me, I've thought they're ideal.

 

I've got a bit of cash spare, probably up to 2.5k. Are defenders on this price range total rubbish?

 

If not a defender, what is a suitable alternative that can go on classic or enthusiasts insurance, seats 5 with proper seatbelts, and 4x4?

 

UMM

  • Like 3
Posted

CTRL-Shift-P brings up the printer page and F11 goes fullscreen for me (Chromium) but the options button in both - top far left) has an "Incognito" or "Private Browsing" button.

F11 is fullscreen on both.

Top right of screen either three dots or dashes opens sub menu and you can select from there. May not be dots or dashes, maybe star or cogwheel but in that area anyway.

 

Sent from my X17 using Tapatalk

Posted

CTRL+Shift+N for incognito in Chrome.

 

Ctrl-Shift-T reopens tabs you've closed. Keep pressing it to go back further.

Posted

Granadaland Greenhouse Gassers - refers to Junkman and Conrad, and P6 3500 based climate adjustment.

Posted

Varifocals.

Eyes got worse again, more distance than close. New prescription seems useless over more than 4m or so. Optician says compromise necessary so I can watch TV etc comfortably.

Roadsigns and car lights are blurred/ glarey, can't be right surely?

 

Sent from my X17 using Tapatalk

Posted

Thanks, I feared this was a moon on a stick type of request. Disco it might just be then,

 

..might  suggest you try a Disco first.  My brother had one, when they were current ..and it made me feel terribly car sick (..rolling and squirming around corners).. :evil:  I hadn't felt that car sick since I was a young kid squeezed into the back seat between two big brothers in closed up, full heater on stuffy hot, plastic-seated, 1970's BL something ..Probably a mustard coloured Maxi.    Very limited space in the back too for people with a head &/or legs.     

Posted

Two questions, when I change the throttle body on my C4 VTS for a "new" one

 

a) Do I need a gasket/seal kit (Euro & Jayar don't stock such a thing)?

B) Can I use petrol to clean the "new" one up or must I buy some of that MAF sensor cleaner stuff?

Posted

Next question, why when I typed B) did I get some stupid smiley faced shit on my last post? (not car related question but Oh Well!

Posted

There is a Passat v5 with a triptronic gearbox that has blown it's gearbox cooler pipework on a quiet residential street and deposited all its affiliates on the road. It no longer moves, but does start.

 

To put gearbox oil in I think requires compressed air to force it in or a long gravity feed to a gearbox filler on the underside. I can't really do it where it is and need to try and get it the 5 miles or so home. Could this be towed, as I'm unsure if it goes into neutral with no gearbox oil and might be stuck in park?

Posted

Everything Dave numbers says except the possibility of a decent one for 2.5k

There's a great article in Land Rover Owner International this month about buying a decent P38 Rangie - Junkman's is defying the stereotype.

 

You might get a passable RR Classic for c2.5K (I did :) - for less)

 

Unless you have a burning desire for a Defender, a Disco1 or RRC are more fun on road and are basically very similar mechanically to the Defender but with nicer cabins.

Posted

My stupid question is "How the flip am I going to get the track rod end off the steering rack on my MG ZT-T ?"

 

I don't have a gas axe or propane torch.

 

So far I have tried 

 

Freeze N release

Various penetrating fluids (copious amounts)

Heat from my wee plumbing blowlamp (which is all I have)

 

I have considered trying to saw the locknut off but I'm not sure that would work without damaging the rack threads, and nor am I sure it would even help.

 

Any cool ideas?

Posted

Are you replacing the track rod end? If so slight thread damage won't matter. Remove lock nut by using a dremel with cutting disc as they can get in most spots. Failing that grinder through nut and knock it off. I've used both methods when replacing track rod end.

Posted

My stupid question is "How the flip am I going to get the track rod end off the steering rack on my MG ZT-T ?"

Put something underneath to act as an anvil, like an axle stand, block of wood or an anvil so you can leather the ignorance out of it with a hammer, attack the flats of the nut to shock it free. Mind you don't twat a clump out of the wheelarch.

Posted

Unwind the axial rod out, they're only cheap anyway. By the time you've spent twatting the threads it'll be no good. You'll need the handcuff like things to wind it out the rack though. Either that or a stillson wrench might do it.

Posted

These bits?  attachicon.gifs-l300.jpg   Which end is the problem?

No the outer ones - the silver curved bits in this pic -

 

post-20411-0-66194200-1487869102_thumb.jpg

 

I never thought of removing the whole thing (inner and outer) though.  It might be easier to get off on the bench/in a vice.  How easily do the inners come out?

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