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Posted

Any screw should do so long as it's not from Poundland. It's rounded off as it's up against too much resistance. As above pilot hole roughly the width of the screw without the thread. Drive it in with the drill giving it a couple of short blasts as opposed to one long drive if that makes sense. Then stop buying shit from Poundland.

  • Like 3
Posted

Did LJK Setright ever write about the LS400? I can't find much except second hand quotes.

Posted

Can anyone recommend me a good screw?

 

 

Stupidly I thought I'd fix the bed with Tommy Walsh's finest pound shop screws. Two thirds in, on every screw, the sodding thing chewed itself and now no matter how hard I try I can't drive them further.

So I need some about an inch to inch and a half long that are strong.

Spax and Reisser, with a preference for Reisser.

 

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws+%26+Fixings/d90/Reisser+Screws/sd2716

 

http://www.screwfix.com/c/screws-nails-fixings/woodscrews/cat840066?brand=spax

 

No pilot hole needed as they have cutting heads, just invest in decent Wera or Milwaukee driver bits.

Posted

Would drilling a pilot hole help with those screws? I know an 'engineer' who always puts woodscrews in with a hammer, his justification being that the head will remain in good order facilitating later removal. The cunt.

 

It's a crinkle cut nail, innit.

  • Like 3
Posted

Rough value of an OE Ford Focus 1.6 cat? Any ideas? If it's worth a fiver I'll not bother needless to say.

Got the number off it?

Posted

Any screw should do so long as it's not from Poundland. It's rounded off as it's up against too much resistance. As above pilot hole roughly the width of the screw without the thread. Drive it in with the drill giving it a couple of short blasts as opposed to one long drive if that makes sense. Then stop buying shit from Poundland.

I only did a very small pilot hole as I couldn't get the drill in and the screws only have a smallish thread so didn't want too big an hole!

 

I ended up with poundland as I was sick of forgetting to order some and I was in the shop looking at their crap tools. They did fix some stuff OK....

 

Thanks though for all the answers, I'll get some ordered!

Posted

Most vehicles with indirect injection diesel engines have good heaters, they aren't thermally efficient and run hotter than modern diesels.

 

The C15 I used to drive had a shit heater.

The Tdi Landy I used to own would get cold if the heater was on full with it idling.

Other examples are available but my experience is diesels don't produce masses of heat unless they have a turbot & are running on boost.

Posted

The c15 is great considering its heating a large uninsulated tin box with ventilation holes!

  • Like 1
Posted

The one I used to drive took about an hour to get warm & then never got to hot, that was after a new stat.

Posted

Not off hand no but it's the original. Just wondering if it's worth weighing in that's all.

Everybody I know to ask always asks for the number at least £30 upwards if it's an original item at a guess though

Posted

The C15 I used to drive had a shit heater.

The Tdi Landy I used to own would get cold if the heater was on full with it idling.

Other examples are available but my experience is diesels don't produce masses of heat unless they have a turbot & are running on boost.

The 64BHP Polo 1.9D I'm running about in just now has a great heater, previous XUD powered cars had good heaters too.

Maybe C15s just have shit heaters or your one had an especially shit heater. I've owned loads of shit old diesels and live in the north of Scotland, heating has never been a problem.

Posted

Does your polo heater blow cold when you go down a long hill? My 19d mk3 golf used to do that, but it would warm up pretty quick to start with.

Posted

Everybody I know to ask always asks for the number at least £30 upwards if it's an original item at a guess though

From what I've read Car Take Back insist you leave the Cat on. However if I cut the fucker off midway they'll hopefully be non the wiser.

Posted

The ABS light has started coming on in the Octavia as soon as it starts moving and, thanks to a suicidal pheasant I encountered a couple of days ago, I know for sure the ABS no longer works.  Googling suggests sensors are a common failure, is there a straightforward way to identify which one without resorting to trial and error? 

Posted

The ABS light has started coming on in the Octavia as soon as it starts moving and, thanks to a suicidal pheasant I encountered a couple of days ago, I know for sure the ABS no longer works.  Googling suggests sensors are a common failure, is there a straightforward way to identify which one without resorting to trial and error? 

For ABS sensors I have measure the resistance of the sensor with a multi meter, not sure what the readings in ohms should be but if you check all 4 then you should see a difference.

  • Like 2
Posted

This can be done at the ECU plug if you know what pins to check. I'd expect the pinout and correct resistance to be available somewhere on the owners' forums.

Posted

Mk60 pin 45 46 NSF pin 42 43 OSR pin 36 37 ,NSR pin 33 34 OSF

 

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

Posted

Does your polo heater blow cold when you go down a long hill? My 19d mk3 golf used to do that, but it would warm up pretty quick to start with.

Not that I've noticed, the coolant temperature drops but the heater is still good. It defies thermodynamics or something.
Posted

Thanks chaps, I'll give it a try if I can work it out, electrics are not my strong point once it goes beyond household plugs and very basic soldering.

Posted

Thanks chaps, I'll give it a try if I can work it out, electrics are not my strong point once it goes beyond household plugs and very basic soldering.

Easiest way is disconnect the plug from the sensor and set meter to ohms, then one probe to each pin and see reading. 

Check this with the internet or all the others and the odd one out is fucked (hopefully)

Posted

Have you done any work in the front wheel area on the skoda ? Some vag stuff has abs sensors that are only a push fit into the hubs ( Passat and A4 deffo do this ) . When you do work on the hub area they can get knocked back a bit and bring the light on . To fix just push in until it stops then pull back approx 1mm

Posted

Oh and not all abs sensors have a resistance . The newer stuff ( basically if you have a wheel bearing with built in encoder ring ) you need an oscilloscope to diagnose .

Posted

Oh and not all abs sensors have a resistance . The newer stuff ( basically if you have a wheel bearing with built in encoder ring ) you need an oscilloscope to diagnose .

Thanks for that information, I did not know that.

 

I will have to see if the Mrs can get me a free oscilloscope from her work when being cleared out :)

Posted

Have you done any work in the front wheel area on the skoda ? Some vag stuff has abs sensors that are only a push fit into the hubs ( Passat and A4 deffo do this ) . When you do work on the hub area they can get knocked back a bit and bring the light on . To fix just push in until it stops then pull back approx 1mm

 

Well, I changed the front brake pads over the Christmas break so yes, it's quite possible.  When I next get time (so, probably the next Christmas break) I'll get the front wheels off and have a look.  One thought, actually - I used bog standard copper grease on the back of the pads as per usual but I know technically you're not really meant to on ABS cars, would that have anything to do with it?  If so, what grease should be used?  Not a big deal to pop them out, clean them off and regrease them if it's an issue.

Posted

You would have had to have put the copper grease on with a trowel to make an abs fault . I've always used copper slip and must have fitted hundreds of sets of brakes and had no issues .

  • Like 1
Posted

How does one avoid cookies. Bloody annoys me that sites tell you that they use them, and to continue is to agree to them. I don't want to be bloody targeted ,by them or any bugger else.

Posted

How does one avoid cookies. Bloody annoys me that sites tell you that they use them, and to continue is to agree to them. I don't want to be bloody targeted ,by them or any bugger else.

Incognito mode or Private Browsing

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