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Posted

I think the "rule of 9s" doesn't work on them or something, its 15 years since I've been at one though.

 

I've done a few though and it was easy enough, although the rockers on one were worn tae fuck where they whacked on the valve so I couldn't get a feeler in, I just set them by feel and it was close enough.

OK think I'll give it a go then.

 

Need to do the head gasket ASAP. I've never done one before (but taken my type of engine apart at college) and forgot that the head bolts were under a load of stuff and that they'd need resetting after.

Posted

How easy is it do get resetting the tappets wrong on a kent/Valencia engine?

Not very easy to get wrong on a Kent, hadn't heard of  the Vanecia before so can't comment but assume are the same. They are a very basic engine except the firring order is 1-2-4-3 instead of the more usual 1-3-4-2 so as already said, you can't use the rule of 9.

Posted

I should know, but don't:

 

1998 Zafira 1.6 petrol: can you access the fuel tank from under the seats? I'm sure I couldn't on the diesel, but it wasn't a problem as I could get the electric syphoner into the filler neck, but need to access the top of the tank to get the petrol out of this one.

Posted

I should know, but don't:

 

1998 Zafira 1.6 petrol: can you access the fuel tank from under the seats? I'm sure I couldn't on the diesel, but it wasn't a problem as I could get the electric syphoner into the filler neck, but need to access the top of the tank to get the petrol out of this one.

 

A quick internet suggests there is no access panel, the instructions for replacing the fuel pump involve removing the tank. 

 

 

Is it plastic, can you stab it with a screwdriver to extract the delicious free fuel?

Posted

A quick internet suggests there is no access panel, the instructions for replacing the fuel pump involve removing the tank. 

 

 

Is it plastic, can you stab it with a screwdriver to extract the delicious free fuel?

 

Possibly, but the scrap man cometh this week some time and I don't want to make a mess before he does. I wonder if I can shift the centre or rear seat, pull up the carpet and make a hole in the top?

Posted

see if you can bodge a bit of wire into the fuel pump relay so it runs 24/7 then point the fuel hose into the petty can...least messy way and you can enjoy a fag while the can fills up

  • Like 2
Posted

Changing pads on front discs of XM: Haynes book of lies suggests screwing the piston clockwise to retract it into the caliper, is it on a thread? I've been screwing for about an hour!

Posted

The Reliant's exhaust has blown, way before the back box. Seems down on power (yes it did'nt have much before). Would a blown exhaust cause this?

Posted

Apart from that thread with the useful website links on that takes ages to find (it needs to be pinned) is there a thread recommending places to get parts from?

 

I'm always needing stuff that euro car parts don't have or things at a more normal cost and it take ages to wade through Google.

Posted

Ahhh OK. I'm just thinking of another auto. Lagunas do scare me!

Posted

Changing pads on front discs of XM: Haynes book of lies suggests screwing the piston clockwise to retract it into the caliper, is it on a thread? I've been screwing for about an hour!

What an awful bit of industrial design. It turned what is an hour-a-side job on a Volvo 940 into a 3 hours-a-side lose the will to live nightmare.

Posted

Saab 93 2.2 TID.  I've noticed when starting up from cold and putting a bit of throttle on is causing a fair bit of white smoke - definitely worse when cold.  It's still boosting fine in it's own whistle-y way, no warning lights, although I'm noticing a drop in economy.  Oil usage has upped a bit too. 

 

What should I look for?  I'm guessing turbo seals myself, would they be a pain in the arse job for a fairly inexperienced moron?

Posted

Saab 93 2.2 TID. I've noticed when starting up from cold and putting a bit of throttle on is causing a fair bit of white smoke - definitely worse when cold. It's still boosting fine in it's own whistle-y way, no warning lights, although I'm noticing a drop in economy. Oil usage has upped a bit too.

 

What should I look for? I'm guessing turbo seals myself, would they be a pain in the arse job for a fairly inexperienced moron?

My old w124 did this and it was air in the fuel line caused by some pin holes. If you have transparent fuel lines it's easy to check.

 

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Guest Hooli
Posted

Changing pads on front discs of XM: Haynes book of lies suggests screwing the piston clockwise to retract it into the caliper, is it on a thread? I've been screwing for about an hour!

Are you pushing them in at the same time?

 

Every calliper I've done like that needs a damn good shove as you screw them inwards. I don't think it's a thread as such, just turning them releases the ratchet where the handbrake mech moves out with pad wear.

Posted

Is super-heating snapped or broken ABS rings and sliding them off, and then doing the same to the new ABS ring to fit them a recognised method of approach for such a job?

 

The S60 is going into the local friendly garage on Monday as I'm quite certain I've got snapped or borked ABS rings that are causing the 'BRAKE SERVICE NAO' warning lights to come on. A bit of research reveals Volvo's preferred method would be to charge you for a whole new axle/drive shaft or some such horrifically expensive item.

 

However, it seems very easy to buy the individual rings themselves, so the above method must be one that is recognised as a way around what is likely an unnecessary job?

 

A local friendly mechanic would know this right?

 

 

PLZ REASSURE.

 

He replaced the off-side CV joint and the ABS ring with it. Total cost £65. No warning lights now.

 

Yay.

Posted

Where can I buy proper old fashioned Red Lead primer? (or a genuinely good brushable alternative)

 

The bits painted in it seem to have lasted on my Rover.

 

DSC_0656_zpsw0lrksar.jpg

Posted

lead is banned now...epoxy primers are a good modern primer that works well

Posted

Changing pads on front discs of XM: Haynes book of lies suggests screwing the piston clockwise to retract it into the caliper, is it on a thread? I've been screwing for about an hour!

I always release the bleed nipple to make it easier for pistons to retract, clamping the hose where there is one. Makes the job easier and prevents knackered, dirty fluid being pushed up into the master cyl/brake valve/abs block.

 

What a total contrast the XM's unseen bits are with those in a CX - cost accountants rule at PSA.

Posted

So now I'm confused. Took off the rocker cover today and found some gunk but not loads

 

post-17845-0-61797400-1488983620_thumb.jpg

 

Isn't a head gasket failed meant to be a lot worse than this? I've seen this before in my other 950 and it was just condensation (it had already had the gasket done).

 

But with the car getting hot and the heater only blowing cold I don't know what's best.

Posted

had that engine in a mk4 escort and it was always full of mayo...think its just something they do unless youre doing lots of miles

Posted

I know it's a thing if they don't do a lot and at the moment mine isn't but apart from being blocked with crap why isn't the heater working?

 

Saying all this there's no oil in the expansion tank or on the dip stick.

Posted

My old w124 did this and it was air in the fuel line caused by some pin holes. If you have transparent fuel lines it's easy to check.

 

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White smoke as well?  I hadn't thought about that, you can hear the fuel pump when you give it throttle sometimes, what I assumed was the fuel pump anyway.   I will have to have a look.

Posted

I would be checking the thermostat and flushing the cooling system on that before assuming the head gasket has failed.

Posted

Are you pushing them in at the same time?

 

Every calliper I've done like that needs a damn good shove as you screw them inwards. I don't think it's a thread as such, just turning them releases the ratchet where the handbrake mech moves out with pad wear.

Typical Haynes misinformation, it didn't mention pushing at the same time so I presumed it was something typically Citroen. I was also confused by the need to turn it clockwise, it would have been much easier to twist back and forth or just heave ho with a big flat bar like normal.

Posted

Typical Haynes misinformation, it didn't mention pushing at the same time so I presumed it was something typically Citroen. I was also confused by the need to turn it clockwise, it would have been much easier to twist back and forth or just heave ho with a big flat bar like normal.

I don't know about XM calipers in particular, but various other PSA calipers you do need to wind clockwise to get them to retract as there is a thread internally - anti-clockwise winds them outwards!

Posted

Range Rover 2015 will the pads be simple or are they are on a electronic calliper affair.

 

Done our discovery 4 and rr sport pads and they was conventional as the electronic parking brake is a drum inside the disc. But I know they went to a electronic parking brake in the calliper? Any clues peeps?

 

 

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