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Posted

Could the stainless be tack welded together using normal gear? Then the item be taken to an exhaust place or whatever?

Posted

You can weld stainless with a normal mig set up but it will be a) shit and B) rust when the stainless wont. For an example look at some of the cheaper end on the stainless silencers. After a year or so the stainless will still be good but the welding will be rotting away nicely.

Posted

Cheers FPB7 - that sounds fine to me, so I can get the manifold lined up correctly, welded with a mig, then removed to be welded properly by someone with the right gear.

Posted

Sort the wiring out with a relay kit so the bulbs get a full 13.odd volts

 

This. Output drops hugely with voltage (I've got the formula somewhere).

 

How difficult is it to weld stainless steel?

 

You can weld stainless with a normal mig set up but it will be a) shit and B) rust when the stainless wont.

 

It's more difficult to weld neatly than mild steel, but is perfectly possibly using stainless MIG wire and argon gas. The part about rusting more quickly can be true, but it depends on what the composition of the stainless and the wire is. Basically you need the wire to be a higher grade (more chromium) than the bulk stainless steel, as some will be depleted in the weld to form chromium carbides. If the level drops to such that the steel is no longer classed as stainless, well you can guess what happens!

  • Like 1
Posted

Sill repair question.... regarding stonechip

 

The 205 is slightly rotten along the sills, but not enough to warrant replacing them.

 

This picture is the rear of the O/S sill before I started removing the rubbery stonechip. A couple holes are to appear towards the back half of this sill, mainly rusted from the inside. One region of bubbled rust is dead centre of the picture, just under the curve of the sill, 3 inches in from the back.

 

WP_001408.jpg?psid=1

 

When re-decorating visible parts of the sills - what is the best order to apply waterproofing / paint to achieve a hard wearing yet reasonably attractive finish? Bear in mind it will be onto rough welds and patches and need to hide these fairly well.

 

My idea was to paint onto the bare metal or weld with grey Hammerite Anti Rust Primer, then several thick layers of Carplan Tetraseal Underbody Sealant (enough to hide weld seams and general roughness from grinding and welding), then a couple layers of grey Hammerite Anti Rust Primer to hide the black underseal, then quick rub down to provide a key, then a couple coats of colour coded topcoat.

 

Will this suffice??

 

 

And here is a quick tip for anyone wanting to remove thick layers of stonechip/waxoyl from car bodies:

Where water has run down between the rubbery stonechip layer and the bodywork, I found the best way to locate weak and possibly rotten spots was to run along the sills with a blowtorch - the water turns to steam and escapes in big hissing bubbles, pushing the stonechip stuff off the sill, leaving bare metal. You then tear this back till you reach a point where the stonechip is still sticking to the panel - this means it is onto good clean metal, no water intrusion, and you can work back in from there, chamfering off the edges of the good waxoyl with a wire wheel. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Can any electronic wizz kids cough...cobblers. Suggest a safe way I could drive a 12v electric car seats motors via something I can plug in, in the house? Not overly keen on keeping an old car battery or jumper pack around to drive it. I looked at those caravan invertor things but they only put out a punny 3amps, which is barely enough to move the motor.

Posted

Yes. I've built about 20 of them with manual adjustments what I've flogged on. I bought a couple of Ferrari 360 seats a couple of years ago with motors in them and used the aforemention caravan invertor but it looked shit and was very slow. I've still got one of them I want to sell. I also have the chance of another couple of high end electric seats but want something thats looks good and works well as I want to ask decent ££ for them. Unfortunatley I know f*ck all about electronicz.

If I was to look for a trade to do the work do you recon it'd be it be a normal domestic spark, appliance spark or motor spark?

Posted

Do the seats have any electronics ie " memory" type functions or are they just motors with switches? If memory etc the power supply will need to be stable and electrically quiet.

 

If they are just motors with switches you could try a battery charger, if it is the old fashioned sort with a meter it should work motors ok. (They might buzz a bit) "Intelligent" chargers won't work.

 

Got any old laptop computer power supplies? They are often 14.5v at 5amps or more and would be fine to drive car seat motors.

 

That Maplin supply might be ok, as long as you need less than 5A. You could cut off the plug and connect with connector strip.

Posted

They worked with 3amps (just) so I think 5amps would be okay. In the cars they run at much higher ampage as they need to move folks fat arses but this is just for adjustment.

The smaller chargers seem to be the same as they tend to be low ampage. If you could plug the powersupply into the chair like you do with a laptop or something then it'd be nice and neat as there'd be no cables hanging down when you don't want it to to be plugged.

Posted

I put the seats from an Audi A8 into my van once (now back to standard as my wife preferred to be able to stretch out on the double) but there was an unbelievable amount of electronics underneath!

 

149505_457707797711_3651100_n.jpg

 

You can get a panel mount socket to match whatever power supply you decide on, but Maplins tends to be exactly the same quality of stuff you can pick up on eBay for a lot less. Having said that £20 doesn't seem too bad and easier to get your money back if it does fail!

Posted

^A bit of tcut and it'll be fine..

 

Well I've spunked a wad of cash on these fancy seats we we'll see what happens. I'll be happy if no-one ends up in casualty.

Posted

^On his finger or the ceiling tiles?

 

Pop up some pics of the seat

Posted

The ones I bought are from a Bentley GT

 

$(KGrHqR,!qQFDtigWFuJBQ-UWDrUlQ~~60_12.J

 

I found anything with the Ferrari or Bentley logo on Folk (with too much money) go daft for it. I bought the Ferrari ones unseen so they needed quite a bit of work to get them looking decent even then I was never that happy with them. I recon these ones are going to become arm chairs.

 

This is one I made out of an XM seat for shite creds.

 

retrorides_26f201aa-4b14-40c7-8b4a-e641a

  • Like 6
Posted

What about the truckers who then add an imperial fuckload of extra lights, all over the cab, often green, usually accompanied by dream catchers, confederate flags and a wall hanging depicting Big Chief prostitute loyalty card holder, would they be owner drivers?

...or lads daft enough to spend their own money on their gaffer's motor.

 

 

I hate lorry drivers with blue lights up front. I just hate seeing blue lights on the road as it makes me think I have to get out of the way, and last time I checked cars weren't allowed to use them so how come the murderers are allowed blue/green and whatever?

Auxiliary lights on the front of road vehicles can be any colour provided

a. they're not red;

b. they don't flash.

 

Aux lights that show to the rear must be red.

Posted

Has anybody drilled a hole in their fingernail to let blood out when you bash it? Does it work?

 

I've come to the conclusion that it did work. It wasn't quite the instant relief I was hoping for but it did help. The finger is badly swollen, possibly broken, but it isn't throbbing like it would if the nail bed was still under pressure. I clattered it between two 20kg weights like this. I think it was even sorer than when I dropped a B Series and O/D gearbox on my finger, that one is still flatter than it used to be.

 

20kg.jpg

Posted

30-ish years ago I dropped a paving slab on my finger while roadsweeping.  The A&E nurse heated up a paper clip to make a hole in my nail, which did seem to work.  I wasn't all that keen to watch, mind you....

Posted

My Gaffer at work appears to value my spannering abilities at the moment.  I fixed the gear linkage on a stricken Post office Combo the other week and do odd jobs with our LDV Convoy minibuses which is more fun than emptying bins and gardening.

 

His 04 plate Galaxy is flashing up warning lights at the moment, it starts with the ABS light then the brake fluid and low fuel lights join the dashboard disco.

 

I've replaced the elderley battery, checked the earth lead and cleaned out the skuttle of crap that could cause water to be where it shouldn't.  I found an iffy looking connection on the fuse box so pulled it apart and cleaned it up which seemed to help, but the lights are back on.  Any better ideas?

Posted

I stuck a small screwdriver through my nail, and it was the worst pain I've ever experienced (I shouted 'ARGH you C*NT!!!! at the point my uncle was walking across the road, assuming I'd just randomly screamed it at him!) I can't imagine drilling your own nail must do you any good?

Posted

When the thermostat is closed where does the pump push coolant? Just around the engine?

Posted

^^^^^^ ..... and into the Heater ;)

 

TS

Posted

Yo XUD experts. While on the way to pick up my hire van the ZX did one of it's regular conk outs which required me to re-prime the filter before it would start.

While I was doing this I noticed that when I primed it there was what looks like a little white spoked wheel on the bottom left of the filter housing that squirted a bit of diesel to the outside world when I pressed the bulb.

I was late and had to no tools so once it got going I didn't take any pics or anything. Anyone any idea what this is? First thought was bleed valve but it looks odd and thought the bleed valve was the big nut on the right hand side of the filter. I'm guessing this is part of the running problem . The car is a 92 zx 1.9 TD

 

I found  pic, you can see it stick out on the left at the bottom. This is rapidly heading towards the weigh bridge in the sky as my time and patience for pissing around with it and constantly conking out is wearing thin.

 

12010622443_75160a946d_z.jpg
xud by cort16, on Flickr

Posted

most of the xuds I have seen have had the water drain siliconed up and they are a prime area for air leakage. On xantia and 306 it has a spout to attach a hose to drain of water. Any pics?

Posted

Filter housings on those piss air in constantly. useless things. We have a 206 19 na and it's exactly the same. Run it off a can - faultless.

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