SiC Posted February 24, 2018 Posted February 24, 2018 If you intend to keep it, new radiator everytime. If it's going to the bridge at the next MOT/months, then radweld. taxi paul 1
DeeJay Posted February 24, 2018 Posted February 24, 2018 DAFUQ is that? A ZX?A cry for help. AMC Rebel, chodweaver and UltraWomble 3
primeradoner Posted February 24, 2018 Posted February 24, 2018 Noticed a small leak on the primera radiator. So threw a cartin of radweld in but then found out it had an airlock so lots of pipes off and flushing and bleeding to get rid of it. So radiator still leaking . Is it worth another radweld going in or just skip straight to new radiator .Just drain the rad to below the level of the leak and use 2 part epoxy to cover the area where the leak is, A small leak probably needs about a 25mm x 25mm patch Push the epoxy well into the rad fins and leave a slightly domed finish It will never leak again from this spot. Done this loads of times in rookie bangers where you must run a radiator as steam tanks are not allowed. Please feel free to move this post to the worst bodge thread AMC Rebel, DodgeRover, taxi paul and 3 others 6
AMC Rebel Posted February 24, 2018 Posted February 24, 2018 I think people have been to halfords to have their bulbs changed and they have been put in pissed up Does anyone else find the occasional dazzler like this though - or is it me being a weed?
Mally Posted February 24, 2018 Posted February 24, 2018 Just drain the rad to below the level of the leak and use 2 part epoxy to cover the area where the leak is, A small leak probably needs about a 25mm x 25mm patch Push the epoxy well into the rad fins and leave a slightly domed finish It will never leak again from this spot. Done this loads of times in rookie bangers where you must run a radiator as steam tanks are not allowed. Please feel free to move this post to the worst bodge thread i used to think this was a bodge when the banger drivers did it.We used to change the rad and solder the hole up at home.One day we had no spare rad, but did have a tube of Quik Steel.Never soldered a rad since....Perfect cure every time and our rads are £165 a go. primeradoner, DodgeRover and purplebargeken 3
tooSavvy Posted February 24, 2018 Posted February 24, 2018 ^^ my local garage informed me that the gills were pretty much goosed on the Toyota rad @27(no leaks). I scored one BrandNew for £14 delivered off EBay... Corolla AUTO, mind, but an 'alternative' fit YaY TS taxi paul and DeeJay 2
DodgeRover Posted February 24, 2018 Posted February 24, 2018 Just drain the rad to below the level of the leak and use 2 part epoxy to cover the area where the leak is, A small leak probably needs about a 25mm x 25mm patch Push the epoxy well into the rad fins and leave a slightly domed finish It will never leak again from this spot. Done this loads of times in rookie bangers where you must run a radiator as steam tanks are not allowed. Please feel free to move this post to the worst bodge threadDoes it say the rad must be in it's original position or can you shift it to the back seat?
primeradoner Posted February 24, 2018 Posted February 24, 2018 Does it say the rad must be in it's original position or can you shift it to the back seat?Depends on the promotion.Never in the back seat but some allow anywhere in engine bay. For this we use a micra rad behind the engine with the fan running constantly. Some promotions insist on original position. The idea is to cut down on massive OTT hits in a beginners formula. In practise you just save the big hits for the last couple of laps
HH-R Posted February 24, 2018 Posted February 24, 2018 Does anyone else find the occasional dazzler like this though - or is it me being a weed?No, I'd say it's more like one in every 5 round here. Always utterly hanging early to mid 2000s cars. One light out, the other pointing to Mars
sierraman Posted February 25, 2018 Posted February 25, 2018 I've always had a judder from the clutch when changing down from 4th to 3rd or 3rd to 2nd on the Mondeo. It doesn't slip, I tested this yesterday on Porlock Hill. It bites halfway up. My thoughts are that its had the clutch plate overheated before hence the judder, any other thoughts on why its doing this?
wuvvum Posted February 26, 2018 Posted February 26, 2018 Another Lambda-related question. My recently-purchased Perodua Myvi is throwing up a P0130 code, which I understand to mean that the pre-cat sensor is playing up. Had a look under the bonnet and the sensor actually looks fairly new, but it's one of these universal aftermarket ones that come with four loose wires that need to be spliced into the connector. Are these universal sensors normally any good? I'm wondering whether the code is being thrown up because the sensor is made of Chinesium, or because someone has not done a very good job of wiring it in. If the latter, how does one go about testing the wiring to a Lambda sensor with a multimeter?
artdjones Posted February 26, 2018 Posted February 26, 2018 Universal sensors are often no good but of course are much cheaper.Probably worth taking it out and looking at the wiring join, but all the universal ones tend to have a design of joint that it's hard to get to work.Usually have ended up buying an NGK sensor in the specific fitting from eBay,which works.Of course one would have to buy from a trustworthy seller.
artdjones Posted February 26, 2018 Posted February 26, 2018 Just looked up Myvi oxygen sensor on eBay but there's only a listing for a Blueprint sensor,which is £155 plus postage.
wuvvum Posted February 26, 2018 Posted February 26, 2018 Aye, fuck that for a game of soldiers!! I'm hoping that because it's a 1.3 Yaris engine a Yaris sensor will fit, but I'll have to double check the connectors before I splash out.
TataBobu Posted February 26, 2018 Posted February 26, 2018 If it's a yaris engine shouldn't it be a 6 wires sensor?
Tickman Posted February 26, 2018 Posted February 26, 2018 Strange one, 07 plate fiesta flat battery, 1.8VI pit the jump pack on it and nothing. Earth on the battery and still nothing.This happened overnight with nothing being the apparent cause. Any ideas as it is 'parked' on double yellows and the traffic warden was nice yesterday but might be less nice today.
bunglebus Posted February 26, 2018 Posted February 26, 2018 ]Mother's 1995 1.4 8v Astra has an oil leak from the back of the cam/distributor area - but I'm having fun finding out what part I need to fix it, bearing in mind it's a coil pack fitted where the earlier cars had an actual distributor. Is it an o-ring? A cam oil seal (all seem to be listed as fronts on eBay)Thanks
omegod Posted February 26, 2018 Posted February 26, 2018 So back to the fiesta with no drive whatsoever, start it in gear and nothing happens. Stripped it down and all looks ok except for a very worn friction disc. Twist the input shaft and driveshafts turn ok. Here's the stupid bit .. I'm not convinced there isn't something else buggered as I've never come across a clutch that won't make any effort to move the car, also do these have dual mass flywheels ? Petrol 1.25
Talbot Posted February 26, 2018 Posted February 26, 2018 That friction plate isn't that bad. When the rivits have witness marks on them and the clutch cover / flywheel is scored to buggery, then it's bad. Can you turn the flywheel centre with the engine stationary? DMF's have been known to completely fail, leaving the two halves somewhat disconnected. There are some highly amusing Youtube vids of this, particularly on Transit engines. maybe the fail is working it's way down to the smaller Fords too.
chodweaver Posted February 26, 2018 Posted February 26, 2018 Strange one, 07 plate fiesta flat battery, 1.8VI pit the jump pack on it and nothing. Earth on the battery and still nothing.This happened overnight with nothing being the apparent cause. Any ideas as it is 'parked' on double yellows and the traffic warden was nice yesterday but might be less nice today.I'd be inclined to remove the battery and plonk the jump pack in there instead (assuming it's a lead acid or gel battery in the jump pack). If it'll start on the jump pack alone, get it moved like that. Sent from my BV6000 using Tapatalk
sierraman Posted February 26, 2018 Posted February 26, 2018 I've had a complete DMF fail on a transit before. It effectively broke into two parts. Loss of drive as a result.
omegod Posted February 26, 2018 Posted February 26, 2018 That friction plate isn't that bad. When the rivits have witness marks on them and the clutch cover / flywheel is scored to buggery, then it's bad. Can you turn the flywheel centre with the engine stationary? DMF's have been known to completely fail, leaving the two halves somewhat disconnected. There are some highly amusing Youtube vids of this, particularly on Transit engines. maybe the fail is working it's way down to the smaller Fords too. Yeah I can turn the flywheel as it was spinning when undoing the pressure plate bolts, I'd be surprised if this is a dual mass with it being a puny petrol engine but every day is a learning day
omegod Posted February 26, 2018 Posted February 26, 2018 Confirmed with Ford it's a single mass flywheel, so ...........can a worn clutch completely prevent any kind of drive??? driveshaft's are in good order too !
BeEP Posted February 26, 2018 Posted February 26, 2018 Maybe I've lost the plot, but isn't the point that you shouldn't be able to turn the fliywheel, DMF or not? Talbot 1
Guest Hooli Posted February 26, 2018 Posted February 26, 2018 Maybe I've lost the plot, but isn't the point that you shouldn't be able to turn the fliywheel, DMF or not? You can turn it, but you'll feel the compression of the engine as you do so.
Guest Ghostrider 67 Posted February 26, 2018 Posted February 26, 2018 Hello, not sure where to post this, so, here goes. Can anyone identify this Sunbeam? Stanky 1
Stanky Posted February 26, 2018 Posted February 26, 2018 Stiletto? The posh/sporty version of the Hillman Imp? Sigmund Fraud 1
dave21478 Posted February 26, 2018 Posted February 26, 2018 Yeah I can turn the flywheel as it was spinning when undoing the pressure plate bolts, I'd be surprised if this is a dual mass with it being a puny petrol engine but every day is a learning daySpinning? Like turning easily? If so that's something properly broken... snapped crank or something like that. Talbot 1
bigfella2 Posted February 26, 2018 Posted February 26, 2018 A colleague at work has given me a aerosol of graphite oil, what on earth would you need that for?
bunglebus Posted February 26, 2018 Posted February 26, 2018 Stiletto? The posh/sporty version of the Hillman Imp? The grille/trim are wrong. I'm betting it's been adapted from another car. tooSavvy 1
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