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Posted

Where is the username thread that explains why people picked their names here?

Posted

Do you still have to gap plugs, or do new ones wear it in other ways before the gap goes out of spec?

I think you should check them but in most cases they are right for most applications "out of the box".

Posted

Something I've always wanted to know.

 

Is there actually any difference between a Citroen ZX and Peugeot 306, handling and ride wise? I know the latter probably had better interior materials and driving position though.

 

Any answer (s) appreciated.

Posted

Completely dependent on the driver really

One guys fun with lift off oversteer can be someone else's loose back end......

Hth lol

Posted

Something I've always wanted to know.

 

Is there actually any difference between a Citroen ZX and Peugeot 306, handling and ride wise? I know the latter probably had better interior materials and driving position though.

 

Any answer (s) appreciated.

 

Not really, I had a ZX Volcane and a 306 XSi and they were very similar, both equally adjustable with the throttle which is unusual on a fwd car, I had some linglong death rings fitted to the rear of the 306 and the wife spun it twice on the way home due to lift off oversteer at 20mph, put them on the front and they were fine, the 306 was(is) a fantastic looking car, the ZX was meh.....

Posted

Do you still have to gap plugs, or do new ones wear it in other ways before the gap goes out of spec?

 

Some of those multi-fire plugs can't be regapped but normal ones still wear in the traditional way. The electrode burns down & opens the gap over time.

Posted

Something I've always wanted to know.

 

Is there actually any difference between a Citroen ZX and Peugeot 306, handling and ride wise? I know the latter probably had better interior materials and driving position though.

 

Any answer (s) appreciated.

Yes - it's not night and day by any means, but there is a noticeable difference.

 

ZX is lighter for the equivalent spec and has different suspension geometry, and usually with slightly softer spring and/or anti-roll bar rates compared to a 306. I'd need to double check, but from memory ZX's are slightly shorter and narrower wheelbase as well compared to a 306.

 

Even though I own a 306 these days, I in many ways prefer the early ZX to drive - it feels much closer to a 309 in many ways, a little lighter on its toes and less inert than a 306. It sounds odd given that it was only released a couple of years or so before the 306, but it feels (and arguably looks) like a generation older car.

 

Xsara's are much closer to a 306 - especially later facelift (1997-on) 306's - in terms of how they drive and feel, IMO anyway.

Posted

Did someone on here have an ex-banger-rally 850 estate in blue/white/amusing* stickers?  It was parked next to me at the Tollgate on the Holyhead Road in Coventry earlier.

Posted

I think someone on here sold it yeah.

Posted

Then we were enjoying a Stonehouse carvery in the same place without realising it!

Posted

Do you still have to gap plugs, or do new ones wear it in other ways before the gap goes out of spec?

Yes ! The exceptions are , as mentioned above , the multi electrode ones or if the part no has a number suffix . I.e. A ZFR5J isn't pre gapped but a ZFR5J 11 is gapped to 1.1mm out of the box .

Posted

i wouldn't want to try and gap some iridium ones either

Posted

I don't think you're supposed to gap iridium ones. I seem to remember reading it on a box of them one time...

Posted

If you have driving other cars cover does the car need to have it's own separate insurance policy for you to be able to drive it? Just been reminded of a conversation at the bus museum where this was discussed.

Posted

Some policies say that the vehicle to be driven must have a current policy in force on it. Others don't, in the later case take a copy of your policy with you in case you get stopped

  • Like 1
Posted

Plus they must have their own insurance to be taxed now, so the only place you could legally drive a car without it's own insurance would be to/from a MOT.

Posted

The continuous insurance closed that loophole sadly.

Posted

Regarding 740/940: well, they’re the same car really, difference is engines, interiors and the front end.

There are plenty more 940s around in various states of repair and maybe slightly cheaper than 700s. Don’t know anything about them though.

If you get a 700, go for a 2.3 GLE auto, preferably pre-cat as they end up with 110bhp afterwards, which is a bit shit for a car of that size. There’s a multitude of reasons to get a 2.3 GLE.

Interior trim is mostly tied to what paint was specified and few colours had options so you can’t afford to be too fussy about that.

I’ll edit on a link to my ‘tell me about’ thread shortly.

Posted

Winter beater of distinction. Basically a heap of shit that might or might not see the winter out. Usually with a non working heater or pisses water into the footwells making for worry free trips to work over winter.

  • Like 2
Posted

You only see your own. I can't see yours, but I can see that I've got 65 warning points.

How many kittens and nuns died to get 65 points?

 

Edit. More to the point,how the feck did Pillocks post appear as new content?

Posted

How many kittens and nuns died to get 65 points?

 

Edit. More to the point,how the feck did Pillocks post appear as new content?

Firstly, I think I was joking but it was so long ago I can't be sure.

 

Secondly, I had the same thing in an oft-visited thread where it showed me some content from May as new. I think it was on Tapatalk.

Posted

Help! Thursday night the other half diesel fiesta was cranking real slow- almost did not start. I duly removed the battery and put it on charge. Just connected the battery ( all the lights on the dash board light up as normal ) but when I turn the key nothing happens. I can hear 1 click from the engine but nothing else. Checked all the fuses but they are all o.k. What have I done wrong? Any advice much appreciated!

Posted

clean all the terminals on the battery / clamps with wire wool see if that makes any difference.

Posted

Also make sure the engine earth strap is good - run a jump lead from engine to battery negative to check.

Posted

.

Chrysler Voyager - ABS  woes

 

My '04 Chrysler hadn't yet reached 223k miles but the ABS warning light was sometimes on, so I had a mechanic at the local garage look at it one one lunchtime ..and he cleaned thick rust off the serrated ring - but that did nothing more than have the light now permanently on.  

 

A month later and the 'brake warning light' stays on,

 

And recently the 'Tracking-off' now also stays on. 

 

Regarding the ABS he advised that the pick-up sensor had probably been ground away by the rust and so was probably shot, but that to change it usually is a PITA because the bolt shears off and then the lug breaks off the hub..  He doesn't want to do it (on the side) probably because it'll take too long.  

 

Personally I don't need ABS but next month the MOT is due.  So this afternoon I thought I'd try to gently get the pick-up sensor bolt out..  Lo n' behold it sheared off.  The bolt looks like a 6mm thread, and judging by trying to drill it out - the steel is toughened. Steel into aluminium under a wheel-arch = irretrievably corroded.  I removed the disk and drilled it out as best I could - and it's now reassembled with a nut & bolt.   And the lights still stay on.

 

Looking at the face of the sensor I see two black dots (possibly the ends of carbon ?) and wonder if these were originally / should be sealed under a layer of plastic ? 

 

So my question is.. Is the ABS + Brake + Tracking-off warning lights all now being on likely to just be the one sensor, or what the ..  is likely to being going on.?   

 

And is it something I can fix myself (I don't have a electronic diagnostic thingy or special tools) or do I need to take it to a garage. ?

 

Thanks,

Bfg.  

 

p.s. OK I'm an old giffer but .. what is 'tracking-off' ?   I know the push-button switch is on the top of the steering column cover, but I've never used it, nor do I know what it's for.     

Posted

Only guessing, but TRAC OFF will refer to the traction control system that controls slippage at each wheel in the case of too much welly/too little grip. It relies upon the same sensors that the ABS uses so it's no surprise it's not enabling.

 

Sent from my BV6000 using Tapatalk

Posted

  

 

If two wheels are out of balance, and the rolling circumference is not exactly the same, the out of balance forces could add and then cancel as the wheels go in and out of phase with each other (every 5 seconds). Especially noticeable if they are the front wheels. I remember this effect on my wife's Civic. New set of tyres fixed it.

New set of tyres fixed my problem as well :)

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