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Posted

Has anyone else noticed the amount of cars driving round with rear number plates that have almost gone white? I'm assuming sun damage? It's typically on newer cars...

Posted

2 Saab related questions. Z19DTH engine

 

1. Studying videos and internets on removing the fuel pump some sources say the fuel pump is timed as well, others say it's not. Which one is it?

2. New manifold comes with flap actuator motor and the sensor on the top - is this plug & play or do I need to retain my original for full compatibility?

3. what size are the engine mount bolt heads - E14 or E16?

Posted

Has anyone else noticed the amount of cars driving round with rear number plates that have almost gone white? I'm assuming sun damage? It's typically on newer cars...

 

Seems to be brand new ones that I see with these plates , look weird

Posted

.

Hi I'm a Bfg., and . . . . . . . . . .  I am a car 'project' addict. 

There I said it !

..  but I just can't help myself.    :?

 

Anyway., even before clearing what I already have unfinished in the garage - I'm craving my next fix.  This will be the last time  ..honest !  

 

But that's another story.  

 

Anyone familiar with American cars here ? Because for now I want to ask about U.S. automobile inspection or tax bumper stickers. . 

 

post-20151-0-37018400-1555700040_thumb.jpg

On a 1960's autom0bile presently in Arkansas car, this sticker clearly says  A.7604.  But would I be correct in thinking this means it was last registered, inspected or taxed for the road in Arkansas 1976 April.  ..Some 43 years ago this very month ?  Or are the numbers arbitrary and just as the vehicles were checked through the system ? 

 

Thanks

Bfg  ;)

Posted

Can anyone recommend a good petrol-proof glue / sealant.

I bought a new petrol pump for the Maxi from Ebay (Moprod branded) and when fitted it leaked from the outlet pipe.

After removing it again and inspecting it I discovered that both the brass pipe stubs were only a finger-tight fit in the alloy pump housing. Presumably they should be pressed in and there is no trace of any glue or sealant on any of the parts. I messaged the seller asking them to replace it and they replied very promptly, but unfortunately don't have any more in stock, and even if they had they may all have the same problem. They immediately refunded the money and didn't ask for it to be returned, so I am wondering if I can repair it.

 

post-22043-0-58198700-1555846750_thumb.jpg

 

So what I need is a glue or sealant which will fix the brass pipes into the alloy housing and provide a petrol-proof seal. I thought of some variant of Loctite (maybe bearing fit) or Araldite, but don't know if either of these are resistant to petrol.

 

Anyone have any better ideas?

 

TIA for any suggestions.

 

Posted

Loctite I think should hold once dried. I'd use the red permanent stuff though. Tigerseal may be fuel resistant too?

 

Problem is, if it fails, will it squirt neat fuel around the engine bay? Do you still have the original pump you could scavenge parts from?

Posted

I'd get a bolt or screwdriver shaft that just fits in the brass bits. Then I'd very, very, lightly centre punch around the bit that fits in the body.

Then I'd loctite them in with the correct spec stuff.

Don't ask me what that is though.

 

Actually, I'd probably turn a small shaft a few thou bigger than the hole in the brass, press it inside then remove it, to swell the brass.

Posted

.

^ Epoxy resin is highly resistant to petrol, so Araldite would work. (NB. Polyester resin is dissolved by the ethanol in modern fuels).

Anyway, I recently had a similar issue (it was actually the closing valve seat of a carburettor float bowl that was loose) and used  POR-15 petrol tank sealant. That worked great.

Bfg   

Posted

My acadiane has no glass currently fitted.... Because I removed It. The window rubbers are the type with an insert that is pushed into a channel on the outside. What's the best way / correct way to refit the windows? should the rubber be fitted to the panel, and then the glass inserted or should I do the normal way of strong cord around the rubber channel and work my way around?

 

 

I managed to get one side window in, but the other side is tougher and the rear door windows harder still!

Posted
Ah cool thank you. Didn't know if there was a different approach with the insert rubber. I'll keep persevering then :)
Posted

I've just noticed that petrol prices often end with .7 - until a week or so ago, I was paying 116.7, then whilst I was in the middle of filling up i was annoyed to notice that the Sainsbury's pump was priced at 122.7, and subsequently noticed Asda were charging 120.7.

 

Anyone know if there's any significance to the .7 and why all the garages seem to do it?   Is it just psychological like prices ending in 99p, in that it doesn't look much more than .5, but seems much less than .9, or is there more to it (e.g there being some obscure tax thing that makes it worthwhile)?

Posted

Does anyone know the part number for the reverse light switch on a 1989 Metro VDP? I have bought two over the last year and neither fit. Pic of the original one and one that doesn't fit.

 

attachicon.gif20170429_134406.jpg

 

In position:

 

attachicon.gif20170410_183324.jpg

 

Ta.

If you get hold of a threaded sleeve (threaded inside & outside) to fit the new switch [too small thread for gbox] and correct fit into gearbox then you'd be sorted.

 

A bit of metal tube + liquid metal would be a SavvBodge© :)

Posted

I've just noticed that petrol prices often end with .7 - until a week or so ago, I was paying 116.7, then whilst I was in the middle of filling up i was annoyed to notice that the Sainsbury's pump was priced at 122.7, and subsequently noticed Asda were charging 120.7.

 

Anyone know if there's any significance to the .7 and why all the garages seem to do it?   Is it just psychological like prices ending in 99p, in that it doesn't look much more than .5, but seems much less than .9, or is there more to it (e.g there being some obscure tax thing that makes it worthwhile)?

 

I think it's partially marketing, partially psychological and partially the vendor offering a 'discount'.

Posted

I've just noticed that petrol prices often end with .7 - until a week or so ago, I was paying 116.7, then whilst I was in the middle of filling up i was annoyed to notice that the Sainsbury's pump was priced at 122.7, and subsequently noticed Asda were charging 120.7.

 

Anyone know if there's any significance to the .7 and why all the garages seem to do it?   Is it just psychological like prices ending in 99p, in that it doesn't look much more than .5, but seems much less than .9, or is there more to it (e.g there being some obscure tax thing that makes it worthwhile)?

 

'Tis to do with outwitting bots that scan fuel prices then update sites like " Git yer cheepo fuel here".   A price of $120.7 automatically wins over to a price of $120.9 in the listings so if you do an online search for cheapest fuel it'll show at the top - but only works till everyone does it.

 

I is not no Psychologist.

Posted

Can anyone recommend a good petrol-proof glue / sealant.

I bought a new petrol pump for the Maxi from Ebay (Moprod branded) and when fitted it leaked from the outlet pipe.

After removing it again and inspecting it I discovered that both the brass pipe stubs were only a finger-tight fit in the alloy pump housing. Presumably they should be pressed in and there is no trace of any glue or sealant on any of the parts. I messaged the seller asking them to replace it and they replied very promptly, but unfortunately don't have any more in stock, and even if they had they may all have the same problem. They immediately refunded the money and didn't ask for it to be returned, so I am wondering if I can repair it.

 

20190420_173028.jpg

 

So what I need is a glue or sealant which will fix the brass pipes into the alloy housing and provide a petrol-proof seal. I thought of some variant of Loctite (maybe bearing fit) or Araldite, but don't know if either of these are resistant to petrol.

 

Anyone have any better ideas?

 

TIA for any suggestions.

Hylomar Blue.

Posted

My acadiane has no glass currently fitted.... Because I removed It. The window rubbers are the type with an insert that is pushed into a channel on the outside. What's the best way / correct way to refit the windows? should the rubber be fitted to the panel, and then the glass inserted or should I do the normal way of strong cord around the rubber channel and work my way around?

 

 

I managed to get one side window in, but the other side is tougher and the rear door windows harder still!

 

Place the rubbers in very hot water, to soften them, for five minutes before trying to fit.

Posted

My acadiane has no glass currently fitted.... Because I removed It. The window rubbers are the type with an insert that is pushed into a channel on the outside. What's the best way / correct way to refit the windows? should the rubber be fitted to the panel, and then the glass inserted or should I do the normal way of strong cord around the rubber channel and work my way around?

I managed to get one side window in, but the other side is tougher and the rear door windows harder still!

Get some hellerine oil, it’s what sparkies use to get cables through voids and channels and makes life so much easier. And it's paint and rubber friendly.
Posted

What's the thoughts on taking a Paypal deposit for a car buyer hasn't seen? Sets alarm bells ringing for me, PP money seems to be on elastic ready to snap back when the buyer asks.

Posted

I think I have an E prefix reg that should be an F.

E is from August 87 to Aug 88 yet mine is a December

88 which should make it an F reg.

How does that work ?

Posted

My dad has the misfortune of owning a 2005 Renault Clio 1.2 (8v). In recent months it had developed a misfire that was rectified with a dosing of WD40. All seemed well with this fix* until last weekend when the misfire reared it’s lumpy head again.

This Saturday I changed the coil pack, leads and plugs (well overdue it looked, on the plug front at least) to no avail, still stuttering like George VI on the throttle and flatter than a fenland horizon.

Not one to give up, I removed, inspected, discarded and replaced with a new ‘un, the crank position sensor. I was ecstatic to discover that this had done sod all to the misfiring Clio.

 

So, dear shiters, my question is this: Any ideas what could be causing this miss?

 

Ta very much for your time.

Posted

My dad has the misfortune of owning a 2005 Renault Clio 1.2 (8v). In recent months it had developed a misfire that was rectified with a dosing of WD40. All seemed well with this fix* until last weekend when the misfire reared it’s lumpy head again.

This Saturday I changed the coil pack, leads and plugs (well overdue it looked, on the plug front at least) to no avail, still stuttering like George VI on the throttle and flatter than a fenland horizon.

Not one to give up, I removed, inspected, discarded and replaced with a new ‘un, the crank position sensor. I was ecstatic to discover that this had done sod all to the misfiring Clio.

So, dear shiters, my question is this: Any ideas what could be causing this miss?

Ta very much for your time.

MAF? TPS? (But may not have one depending on MAF arrangement), dirty injector/ injectors? Cam belt/ chain jumped a tooth? Might be worth chucking a bottle of injector cleaner in and giving it an Italian tune as a first (and cheap) step.
Posted

DW8 and Lucas?

 

s-l1600.jpg

 

TIA

Posted

I've just noticed that petrol prices often end with .7 - until a week or so ago, I was paying 116.7, then whilst I was in the middle of filling up i was annoyed to notice that the Sainsbury's pump was priced at 122.7, and subsequently noticed Asda were charging 120.7.

 

Anyone know if there's any significance to the .7 and why all the garages seem to do it? Is it just psychological like prices ending in 99p, in that it doesn't look much more than .5, but seems much less than .9, or is there more to it (e.g there being some obscure tax thing that makes it worthwhile)?

They used to all end in .9 and most still do. Asda introduced .7 to look cheaper than Tesco and are the only place I’ve ever seen with it

Posted

How does it work when you pay for it? Say you buy 70.1 litres at 120.7p/l it comes to £84 61.7p. Do they round it up?

Posted

£8461.70 would be an awful lot of fuel. Filling up a big boat?

 

£84.617 would be rounded up to £84.62. I believe £84.612 would also be rounded up to £84.62 too.

Posted

£8461.70 would be an awful lot of fuel. Filling up a big boat?

 

£84.617 would be rounded up to £84.62. I believe £84.612 would also be rounded up to £84.62 too.

Eighty four pounds, sixty one point seven pence is what I meant.
Posted

I suspect Kiltox is correct; the apparent ubiqity of 0.7 probably just reflects the crappy places my weekly routine takes me to.  I knew there would be some deep meaning to it!  

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