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Posted

What is the best way to get an oil stain off a driveway ?

I've heard burning does it. Any truth in it ?

Just park over it. (And with a Land Rover you will soon stain the rest to match)

  • Like 3
Posted

Asked the question a week or so back about this...heres the new sills fitted to the old banger....before and after...much better result and easier than patching iteba4dc55f925478ffa6d0294ce51ca41.jpgc9f947702c1500261c4992709f7bc9d0.jpg

  • Like 7
Posted

 

 

 

 

 

 

Date tested21 October 2016 PASS

 

 

Mileage79,407 miles

MOT test number8516 0411 3814

 

 

 

Test locationunavailable until further notice

Expiry date26 October 2017

 

Date tested20 October 2016 FAIL

 

 

Mileage79,407 miles

MOT test number4584 8978 0025

 

 

 

Test locationunavailable until further notice

 

Reason(s) for failure

  • Offside Stop lamp not working (1.2.1b)
  • Nearside Rear position lamp(s) not working (1.1.A.3b)
  • Front position lamp(s) not working BOTH FRONTS (1.1.A.3b)
  • Registration plate lamp not working (1.1.C.1d)
  • Windscreen wiper does not clear the windscreen effectively BOTH SPLIT (8.2.2)
  • Nearside Rear Tyre tread depth below requirements of 1.6mm (4.1.E.1)
Advisory notice item(s)
  • Offside Rear Tyre worn close to the legal limit down to limit (4.1.E.1)
What are failures and advisories?

 

Date tested5 October 2015 PASS

 

 

Mileage71,240 miles

MOT test number7660 0761 7873

 

 

 

Test locationunavailable until further notice

Expiry date26 October 2016

 

Advisory notice item(s)

  • slight lift in n/s/f hub
What are advisories?

 

Date tested1 October 2015 FAIL

 

 

Mileage71,240 miles

MOT test number5078 4139 1431

 

 

 

Test locationunavailable until further notice

 

Reason(s) for failure

  • Rear fog lamp not working (1.3.2b)
  • Offside Stop lamp not working (1.2.1b)
  • Nearside Front Tyre has a cut in excess of the requirements deep enough to reach the ply or cords (4.1.D.1a)
  • Nearside Rear Tyre has a cut in excess of the requirements deep enough to reach the ply or cords (4.1.D.1a)
  • Centre Exhaust has a major leak of exhaust gases (7.1.2)
Advisory notice item(s)
  • front tie rod play in bushes
  • slight lift in n/s/f hub
What are failures and advisories?

 

Date tested27 October 2014 PASS

 

 

Mileage62,358 miles

MOT test number3082 8080 4337

 

 

 

Test locationunavailable until further notice

Expiry date26 October 2015

 

Date tested8 August 2013 PASS

 

 

Mileage61,047 miles

MOT test number2762 0002 3224

 

 

 

Test locationunavailable until further notice

Expiry date7 August 2014

 

Advisory notice item(s)

  • Nearside Front Front wheel bearing has slight play (2.5.A.3c)
  • Offside Front Front wheel bearing has slight play (2.5.A.3c)
  • Offside Front Steering pivot point has slight play (2.2.B.1g)
  • Oil leak
  • exhaust deteriorated
What are advisories?

 

Date tested31 July 2013 FAIL

 

 

Mileage61,047 miles

MOT test number2556 4221 3275

 

 

 

Test locationunavailable until further notice

 

Reason(s) for failure

  • Nearside Front Tie bar/rod has excessive play in a pin/bush (2.4.G.2)
Advisory notice item(s)
  • Exhaust has a minor leak of exhaust gases (7.1.2)
  • Nearside Front Front wheel bearing has slight play (2.5.A.3c)
  • Offside Front Front wheel bearing has slight play (2.5.A.3c)
  • Offside Front Steering pivot point has slight play (2.2.B.1g)
  • Oil leak
  • exhaust deteriorated
What are failures and advisories?

 

Date tested8 August 2012 PASS

 

 

Mileage59,797 miles

MOT test number9567 4152 2274

 

 

 

Test locationunavailable until further notice

Expiry date7 August 2013

 

Advisory notice item(s)

  • Exhaust has a minor leak of exhaust gases (7.1.2)
  • Nearside Rear Shock absorber has slight corrosion to the casing (2.7.2a)
  • Offside Rear Shock absorber has slight corrosion to the casing (2.7.2a)
  • Oil leak
What are advisories?

 

Date tested8 August 2012 FAIL

 

 

Mileage59,797 miles

MOT test number4857 9132 2294

 

 

 

Test locationunavailable until further notice

 

Reason(s) for failure

  • Offside Rear Rear fog lamp not working (1.3.2b)
  • Nearside Rear Registration plate lamp not working (1.1.C.1d)
Advisory notice item(s)
  • Exhaust has a minor leak of exhaust gases (7.1.2)
  • Nearside Rear Shock absorber has slight corrosion to the casing (2.7.2a)
  • Offside Rear Shock absorber has slight corrosion to the casing (2.7.2a)
  • Oil leak
What are failures and advisories?

 

Date tested2 August 2011 PASS

 

 

Mileage58,260 miles

MOT test number8079 2401 1275

 

 

 

Test locationunavailable until further notice

Expiry date1 August 2012

 

Date tested27 July 2011 FAIL

 

 

Mileage58,247 miles

MOT test number8182 5850 1217

 

 

 

Test locationunavailable until further notice

 

Reason(s) for failure

  • Nearside Stop lamp not working (1.2.1b)
  • Offside Tie bar/rod rubber bush deteriorated resulting in excessive movement (2.4.G.2)
  • Rear Tyre(s) is inadequate for the vehicles maximum permitted laden weight due to an incorrect ply rating and tyre size. (4.1.B.1b)
  • Rear Exhaust has a major leak of exhaust gases (7.1.2)
  • Centre Exhaust has a major leak of exhaust gases (7.1.2)
  • Fuel system component leaking (7.2.3)
What are failures?

 

Date tested22 July 2011 FAIL

 

 

Mileage58,230 miles

MOT test number9773 9350 1244

 

 

 

Test locationunavailable until further notice

 

Reason(s) for failure

  • Nearside Front Headlamp not working on dipped beam (1.7.5a)
  • Fuel system component leaking (7.2.3)
  • Power steering pipe(s) or hose(s) leaking from a seal (2.3.3b)
  • Offside Inner Front Steering pivot point has excessive play (2.2.B.1g)
Advisory notice item(s)
  • Exhaust has part of the system slightly deteriorated (7.1.1a)
  • Nearside Front Front wheel bearing has slight play (2.5.A.3c)
  • Offside Front Front wheel bearing has slight play (2.5.A.3c)
  • Nearside Rear Shock absorber has slight corrosion to the casing (2.7.2a)
  • Offside Rear Shock absorber has slight corrosion to the casing (2.7.2a)
  • diff leaking oil
What are failures and advisories?

 

Date tested15 July 2010 PASS

 

 

Mileage56,664 miles

MOT test number2849 1679 0181

 

 

 

Test locationunavailable until further notice

Expiry date14 July 2011

 

Advisory notice item(s)

  • Offside Front Lower Steering column universal joint has slight play (2.1.5)
  • Nearside Rear Shock absorber has slight corrosion to the casing (2.7.2a)
  • Oil leak
What are advisories?

 

Date tested15 July 2010 FAIL

 

 

Mileage56,664 miles

MOT test number8211 7659 0122

 

 

 

Test locationunavailable until further notice

 

Reason(s) for failure

  • Nearside Front Body has a sharp edge caused by corrosion (6.1.C.1)
  • Offside Front Body has a sharp edge caused by corrosion (6.1.C.1)
  • Nearside Front Windscreen wiper does not clear the windscreen effectively (8.2.2)
  • Offside Front Windscreen wiper does not clear the windscreen effectively (8.2.2)
  • Rear fog lamp emits a light other than red (1.3.2e)
Advisory notice item(s)
  • Offside Front Lower Steering column universal joint has slight play (2.1.5)
  • Nearside Rear Shock absorber has slight corrosion to the casing (2.7.2a)
  • Oil leak
What are failures and advisories?

 

Date tested14 July 2009 PASS

 

 

Mileage54,506 miles

MOT test number9605 5529 9187

 

 

 

Test locationunavailable until further notice

Expiry date13 July 2010

 

Date tested14 July 2009 FAIL

 

 

Mileage54,506 miles

MOT test number3813 1589 9117

 

 

 

Test locationunavailable until further notice

 

Reason(s) for failure

  • Offside Rear Rear fog lamp not working (1.3.2b)
  • Nearside Front Windscreen washer provides insufficient washer liquid (8.2.3)
  • Front Windscreen washer provides insufficient washer liquid (8.2.3)
Advisory notice item(s)
  • Offside Front Front wheel bearing has slight play (2.5.A.3c)
  • Offside Front Power steering component(s) has slight seepage from a seal (2.3.3b)
  • Nearside Rear Lower Shock absorber has a slightly worn bush (2.7.4)
  • Offside Rear Lower Shock absorber has a slightly worn bush (2.7.4)
  • Nearside Rear Shock absorber has slight external damage to the casing (2.7.2a)
  • Offside Rear Shock absorber has slight external damage to the casing (2.7.2a)
  • Non obligatory mirror damaged
  • Oil leak
  • front bumper has corroded edges
  • park brake drum has sideplay
What are failures and advisories?

 

Date tested1 July 2008 PASS

 

 

Mileage53,245 miles

MOT test number2012 7358 8466

 

 

 

Test locationunavailable until further notice

Expiry date30 June 2009

 

Date tested27 June 2008 FAIL

 

 

Mileage53,223 miles

MOT test number3909 4937 8196

 

 

 

Test locationunavailable until further notice

 

Reason(s) for failure

  • Offside Rear Rear fog lamp not working (1.3.2b)
  • Offside Front Panhard rod has excessive play in a pin/bush (2.4.G.2)
What are failures?

 

Date tested23 May 2007 PASS

 

 

Mileage53,043 miles

MOT test number2141 1374 7154

 

 

 

Test locationunavailable until further notice

Expiry date28 May 2008

 

Date tested23 May 2007 FAIL

 

 

Mileage52,043 miles

MOT test number1210 9354 7121

 

 

 

Test locationunavailable until further notice

 

Reason(s) for failure

  • Nearside Rear Direction indicator incorrect colour (1.4.A.2f)
  • Ball joint has excessive play (2.2.B.1f)
  • Offside Front Front wheel bearing has excessive play (2.5.A.3c)
  • Offside Rear Front wheel bearing has excessive play (2.5.A.3c)
What are failures?

 

Date tested12 May 2006 PASS

 

 

Mileage50,847 miles

MOT test number2537 7233 6453

 

 

 

Test locationunavailable until further notice

Expiry date28 May 2007

 

Date tested5 May 2006 FAIL

 

 

Mileage50,801 miles

MOT test number8515 6552 6175

 

 

 

Test locationunavailable until further notice

 

Reason(s) for failure

  • Rear Vehicle structure has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings (6.1.B.2)
What are failures?

 

 

 

Outstanding vehicle recalls

Check if LAND ROVER DEFENDER 110 H486ONP has outstanding recalls

 

 

 

Support links

Open Government Licence

All content is available under the Open Government Licence v3.0, except where otherwise stated

© Crown copyright

 

Thats long.

  • Like 2
Posted

Does the Magentis use the 2.5 v6 from the Galant ? they seem to poach a lot of mitsubishi stuff

 

Not sure to be honest, struggling with this one, the Missus really loves this car and I want to keep it from the bridge as best I can, but it's not looking good as the test is up in 6 weeks and there is welding to be done too to the front subframe, got to keep looking at the options ;)

Posted

I have had this, so I post a full stop which takes me just after the most recent post, I then delete it and scroll back

Snap!

Although I do often forget the remove bit

 

Also,that Land Rovers' mot history stinks of being owned by someone who uses the test as a sort of service indicator

Bet they used to winge and whine when it broke down on them....

  • Like 1
Posted

Now that I'm on the second side of the Oxford re welding, my attention has turned to the need to consider additional works that do not need sparkly sticks.. with this in mind, I have the following questions:

 

As I have a 1500 B series fitted, what are the correct:

 

Oil filter

Air filter

Spark Plugs

Spark plug leads (or do I buy a kit to make my own?)

Rotor Cap

Points set / condenser (yes I know I should buy NOS rather than new -but which ones?!)

 

I cant seem to find definitive answers, and as there are so many variants of the b series I'm struggling to find the ones i need.

 

your help/guidance and links would be much appreciated!

Posted

Cheers on the landrover mot history, that looks like a real liability .. look fwd to a purchase then

  • Like 2
Posted

Question:

 

I'm looking to hire a car in the US in October for a few days with my better half.  The insurance situation we generally understand (book it through a UK website and you're likely to get the mandatory cover, check that this is the case) but I was wondering if there was anything else we should generally be aware of with regards to car hire over there.  Both of us are over 25 and have clean licences...

 

 

It may be obvious (or not) but the credit card used in the booking must be in the lead drivers name. We failed to do this, disclosed it at the counter in Florida and had to re-hire a car there and then. Then the next day we had to drive back to MIA to sort out the original hire car. It was proper expensive but got all money refunded dealing through the original hire company in the UK.

 

- Don't be thinking a cabriolet is a good idea either during the day in certain parts. I felt like my brain was boiling in my head at some traffic lights.

 

- Motorways or ' the innerstate' appear to be a seven lane 'free for all'. Any lane, any speed and usually will come across a large piece of vehicle or building material just laying in the lane.

  • Like 1
Posted

I was in the centre of a 7 lane. 

Early morning 7am. Every space packed, 10 foot gaps and all doing 60mph.

Full size paving slab in my lane, could see cars in front bouncing up and down but didn't know why until I hit it.

Some escaped, 3 of us got flat tyres.

Got my wheel brace out and space saver. 

Brand new car, wheel brace wrong size!

Fortunately one of the other peoples car fit mine. (Its a tire iron over there I now know).

60 dollars for wheel and tyre, which I thought was quite cheap.

Tyres not covered on insurance.

Posted

What is the best way to get an oil stain off a driveway ?

Depends what the driveway is made of, but GUNK driveway cleaner does remove some oil from some surfaces.

 

I've tried washing up lipsquid, washing powder, driveway cleaner, brake cleaner, white spirit etc.etc. and nothing has every *fully* removed the stain.

  • Like 1
Posted

Anyone within 30 mile of Ripley free to do me a spot of welding please? Can pay. Cheers

Posted

What is the best way to get an oil stain off a driveway ?

I've heard burning does it. Any truth in it ?

Buy the Mrs a car that leaks oil like I did. Haven't had a peep out of her since about the stains.

  • Like 3
Posted

Question:

 

I'm looking to hire a car in the US in October for a few days with my better half.  The insurance situation we generally understand (book it through a UK website and you're likely to get the mandatory cover, check that this is the case) but I was wondering if there was anything else we should generally be aware of with regards to car hire over there.  Both of us are over 25 and have clean licences...

The only thing I'd add to what has been said is check what the minimum is in the state you are in. Some states let you get away with low third party amounts, stuff like that. You don't want to find out you are being chased for the balance of someone's $500,000 medical bill following an accident. See what our resident US citizens say.

  • Like 1
Posted

A wheels question for a Saturday morning. Saab-specific.

 

My Saab currently has 195/65R15 tyres on 6J ET41 wheels, all OEM. I wish to fit my not-so-recently powder coated 17" Saab wheels with new tyres to the car. These wheels are 17x7" ET49 offset and were OEM on a 200? 9-5.

 

I understand the offset means these will sit further inside the wheelarch on the inner edge, this website https://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=195&aspect=65&diameter=15&wheelwidth=6&offset=41&width2=225&aspect2=45&wheel_size=17&wheel_width=7&offset2=49 suggests the inner edge of the rim will be 2cm closer to the suspension components/centre of the car with the new wheels compared with the old ones. The outer edge will sit about 5mm further out than the old ones (i.e. the extra inch of wheel width is 80% on the inner edge and 20% on the out edge)

 

Before i go out and buy 4 expensive tyres to fit to these wheels (and having already spent a moderate amount having them stripped and powder coated) is this going to cause me problems with the tyres contacting the suspension components or the inner arches?

 

There is a lot of conflicting information on Saab forums with some people saying it is fine and there is plenty of clearance, and some who have sid that there is a potential for some rubbing on the fronts on full lock with wide tyres from certain brands. From what I've read this seems to only become an issue for 9-3s when you get to 8" wide wheels (compared to 6") with an ET of 49 and are fitting 235 width tyres which is a LOT wider than my setup.

 

I intend to fit 205/50R17 tyres to these wheels, which is the slimmer end of the options available (you can fit between 205 and 225 width tyres to a 7" wheel I understand).

 

Is someone able to check my maths and tell me if I'm likely to encounter issues? As the car is at the garage (see my thread in Modernz section for your guideline daily amount of idiocy) I can't slide under it and see how close the existing setup is, and I won't know until tyres are fitted whether it rubs or not.

 

To put into a shiters perspective, if I get this wrong I could have bought a tatty local 205 1.8d with MOT to november for the cost of buying and fitting tyres to find they don't fit, thats a big gamble!

Posted

The only thing I'd add to what has been said is check what the minimum is in the state you are in. Some states let you get away with low third party amounts, stuff like that. You don't want to find out you are being chased for the balance of someone's $500,000 medical bill following an accident. See what our resident US citizens say.

 

I found a website with all of the coverage charges laid out for each state.  The minimum coverage allowed in Maryland is $60,000 and we are planning to go through there.  That's one of the highest of all the US States.  Cheers for mentioning it - we'd found that bit already but your reply is obviously much appreciated!

Posted

Decided today would be a fine day to give the trusty MK2 Focus a service. The bastard is fighting me. I know I'm in for a world of hurt changing the pollen filter but at the moment my biggest ballache is the sump plug, which I appear to have rounded off. 

 

I've tried the 'hammer a smaller socket on it's method favoured* by many on here, but either it's too small (12mm on a 13mm bolt) or I'm just being a pansy.

 

Access isn't great as I have the car on axle stands, but this has been fine in the past when the sump plug wasn't made of camembert.

 

Any ideas or assistance would be appreciated!

Posted

Anyone a bit nearer to Swindon than me fancy looking at a car for me?

 

If so, does anyone else want to store said car for me for a month or so?

 

 

It doesn't have MOT. But isn't hanging.

Posted

Decided today would be a fine day to give the trusty MK2 Focus a service. The bastard is fighting me. I know I'm in for a world of hurt changing the pollen filter but at the moment my biggest ballache is the sump plug, which I appear to have rounded off.

 

I've tried the 'hammer a smaller socket on it's method favoured* by many on here, but either it's too small (12mm on a 13mm bolt) or I'm just being a pansy.

 

 

 

Access isn't great as I have the car on axle stands, but this has been fine in the past when the sump plug wasn't made of camembert.

 

Any ideas or assistance would be appreciated!

You need a 1/2 inch socket

  • Like 2
Posted

You need a 1/2 inch socket

 

Cheers, I'll see if I have one and will have a go. Sadly I don't have any heat source or bolt extractor things otherwise I'd try that. Doesn't solve the problem of reusing the sump plug, might have to get a replacement in the week, surely there won't be anywhere I can get one tomorrow or Monday?

Posted

Decided today would be a fine day to give the trusty MK2 Focus a service. The bastard is fighting me. I know I'm in for a world of hurt changing the pollen filter but at the moment my biggest ballache is the sump plug, which I appear to have rounded off.

 

I've tried the 'hammer a smaller socket on it's method favoured* by many on here, but either it's too small (12mm on a 13mm bolt) or I'm just being a pansy.

 

Access isn't great as I have the car on axle stands, but this has been fine in the past when the sump plug wasn't made of camembert.

 

Any ideas or assistance would be appreciated!

Try filing the sides down enough to fit an old socket to the point where you will have to hammer it on so its proper snug. Then get the bar on it.

 

Failing that use the stillsons if they'll give you enough of a purchase on it.

Posted

post-20255-0-47770800-1525537137_thumb.jpg

 

It's f***ed. 1/2 inch socket spins freely on it, not surprising when you look at the f***er.

 

Bollocks.

Posted

Try filing the sides down enough to fit an old socket to the point where you will have to hammer it on so its proper snug. Then get the bar on it.

 

Failing that use the stillsons if they'll give you enough of a purchase on it.

 

I'll give it a shot, cheers.

Posted

A Pela pump or similar might be in your future if it’s that tricky to get to. One day I’ll service the MK2 Focus her upstairs drives and I will be using my oil pump...

 

Also avoids sump plug replacement.

Posted

Sump plug is off! In the excitement I let a shitload of oil get on the driveway, luckily it's the 'old crappy' driveway and not the newish block paved one. Thanks all, will give more info when I can put less oil on my phone!

  • Like 2
Guest Hooli
Posted

A wheels question for a Saturday morning. Saab-specific.

 

My Saab currently has 195/65R15 tyres on 6J ET41 wheels, all OEM. I wish to fit my not-so-recently powder coated 17" Saab wheels with new tyres to the car. These wheels are 17x7" ET49 offset and were OEM on a 200? 9-5.

 

I understand the offset means these will sit further inside the wheelarch on the inner edge, this website https://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=195&aspect=65&diameter=15&wheelwidth=6&offset=41&width2=225&aspect2=45&wheel_size=17&wheel_width=7&offset2=49 suggests the inner edge of the rim will be 2cm closer to the suspension components/centre of the car with the new wheels compared with the old ones. The outer edge will sit about 5mm further out than the old ones (i.e. the extra inch of wheel width is 80% on the inner edge and 20% on the out edge)

 

Before i go out and buy 4 expensive tyres to fit to these wheels (and having already spent a moderate amount having them stripped and powder coated) is this going to cause me problems with the tyres contacting the suspension components or the inner arches?

 

There is a lot of conflicting information on Saab forums with some people saying it is fine and there is plenty of clearance, and some who have sid that there is a potential for some rubbing on the fronts on full lock with wide tyres from certain brands. From what I've read this seems to only become an issue for 9-3s when you get to 8" wide wheels (compared to 6") with an ET of 49 and are fitting 235 width tyres which is a LOT wider than my setup.

 

I intend to fit 205/50R17 tyres to these wheels, which is the slimmer end of the options available (you can fit between 205 and 225 width tyres to a 7" wheel I understand).

 

Is someone able to check my maths and tell me if I'm likely to encounter issues? As the car is at the garage (see my thread in Modernz section for your guideline daily amount of idiocy) I can't slide under it and see how close the existing setup is, and I won't know until tyres are fitted whether it rubs or not.

 

To put into a shiters perspective, if I get this wrong I could have bought a tatty local 205 1.8d with MOT to november for the cost of buying and fitting tyres to find they don't fit, thats a big gamble!

 

I assume your car could be ordered with bigger wheels/tyres as new? how big do they work out?

 

I can't recall where you are, but if it's near Doncaster you're welcome to try my spare with 225/45R17 rubber on to see if it fits.

Posted

Yes, mine are the smallest rimz you could get on the range, you could get wheels up to 17" as OEM options but the offset of all of them are 41ET - these are 49ET definitely. And come from a 9-5 originally. These have slightly different ET across the entire range.

 

I'm going to throw caution to the wind, order the tyres and fit them. Everything I've read suggests I'll be fine and the only chance it could be an issue would be if the car is loaded up with 5 people and all their luggage. Since this has literally never happens I'll try it and see what happens.

 

Worst case scenario is that I have to buy a set of spacers. There are plenty of options between 5 and 10mm for GM specification hubs which should solve the issue without putting ridiculous stresses on the hubs. Looking for spacers is frankly terrifying. People actually make 50mm+ spacers which must put a lot of strain on standard hubs.

 

I'll update this thread from the ditch when my plan comes radically undone in a couple of weeks time.

Posted

Sump plug is off! In the excitement I let a shitload of oil get on the driveway, luckily it's the 'old crappy' driveway and not the newish block paved one. Thanks all, will give more info when I can put less oil on my phone!

Let me guess though you've not got a replacement plug!

 

Not a massive fan of the Pela pump idea of changing unless you are an armchair mechanic or that you are working to time, it takes no effort to drain the oil from the sump. Its not even less mess, you've still got to clean the pump out! Youve still got to get underneath the car to swap the filter. In fact on the 1.6 diesel Ford recommended against using vacuum pumps to do an oil change.

Posted

Advice please: I’m fed up of buying shit condensers. Upgrading to electronic ignition: Powerspark or AccuSpark? Or someone else? Or neither? Or what?

Posted

post-20255-0-60011300-1525553538_thumb.jpg

 

The equivalent of making a jacket potato but using every utensil in the kitchen...

 

post-20255-0-47013700-1525553616_thumb.jpg

 

Carnage.

 

post-20255-0-06320900-1525553669_thumb.jpg

 

Oil filter change was rather easy, new one fitted.

 

 

Let me guess though you've not got a replacement plug!

Not a massive fan of the Pela pump idea of changing unless you are an armchair mechanic or that you are working to time, it takes no effort to drain the oil from the sump. Its not even less mess, you've still got to clean the pump out! Youve still got to get underneath the car to swap the filter. In fact on the 1.6 diesel Ford recommended against using vacuum pumps to do an oil change.

 

Err...

 

post-20255-0-26196300-1525553718_thumb.jpg

 

Yeah, you're right - I'm a bad person. I would have put a new one in if the parts desk at the local dealer was still open, I'll buy one in the week and keep it in the glovebox ready for the next oil change.

 

The tip for using a 1/2 inch socket was a good one, but I was a dimwit - I used one that had either 12 or 18 sides first time around, I then found one with 6 sides which did the trick. 

  • Like 2
Posted

Yo Skizzer, I hope all is well. I've not done anything with electronic ignition for years, but the last one I converted (Spitfire) I used Aldon ignitor, and it worked great for me. That was 10 years ago so there might be better out there now, but I had no complaints

 

http://www.aldonauto.co.uk/ignition

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