Jump to content

Ask a Shiter


warren t claim

Recommended Posts

Posted

On the subject of petrol, what about petrol that's been sitting in a car for 2 years? Would that be ok?

Put 12 year old fuel from a Starion tank into Micra, it ran fine. It was completely brown orange as well.

Posted

Thanks fella - that's good news :)

 

Now then.... it judders like fuck when pulling off in 1st gear at low revs (stops juddering if I increase the revs a bit) - far far worse when everything's nice and warm after driving for a few hours.... any ideas? :)

Broken pressure plate finger I reckon

Posted

It's looking like it needs a clutch plus cambelt/water pump/aux belt and the MOT is due next month - happy to have someone do it all at once and don't feel up to doing the bigger jobs myself due to not having a lift

Posted

Away with ya ! Cambelt and clutch on a vivaratragistar is a perfect weekend driveway job 😄

Posted

I probably already know the answer to this but if a Citroën suspension sphere is covered in surface rust is it probably best to replace it? The rear one on the Xantia looks a bit rusty.

Posted

I was thinking about changing my breakdown to Autoaid as they will cover me and my OH for only £42.35 for a whole year, any vehicle and UK recovery included.

 

I did a quick search of this forum and have seen some fellow shitters are using them and say they are ok, however I was wondering can you just insist they take your broken down vehicle to your home rather than back to their garage for expensive repairs?

 

I often travel hundreds of miles from home in my own car for work and if it broke down I would rather they just towed it home rather than fixing it.

Yep 200 mile recovery home after a failed crank sensor again in an Omega. You can choose who you want to recover you as well. I paid by credit card and their refund cheque was through within a couple of days
Posted

I probably already know the answer to this but if a Citroën suspension sphere is covered in surface rust is it probably best to replace it? The rear one on the Xantia looks a bit rusty.

Is it holding pressure? I would imagine it must be knackered by now if its showing rust. As a rule they need changing every five years or so because the nitrogen bleeds through the membrane or summat.

Posted

Is it holding pressure? I would imagine it must be knackered by now if its showing rust. As a rule they need changing every five years or so because the nitrogen bleeds through the membrane or summat.

It's the centre "Anti sink" rear accumulator sphere, not sure how to test it without pressure equipment. It's pretty important though so I'll order one up and replace it.

Cheers!

Posted

Has anyone taken one of these lithium battery booster packs on an aeroplane as hand luggage? The easyjet website suggests they are NOT allowed in hold luggage but is ambiguous on whether they can be taken in the cabin.

Also, what easyjet allow and what the sourfaced guy at the security checkpoint allows may not be the same thing.

Posted

The other day, mention was made of cars having the section of rear panel between the back lights painted matt black to make them look sporty (not sure which thread). The only car I can think of is the Dolly Sprint, I know lots of different cars had this feature, but what were they?

Posted

My bro learnt to drive (in 1987) in a 1978 Golf 1100 GL. Unlike the povvo-spec cars, it had a useless piece of plastic behind the number plate, between the rear lights.

 

e.g. like this 1979 GLS:

volkswagen_golf_5-door_1.jpeg

 

So whilst not painted or sporty, it was a trim feature that distinguished it as somehow more upmarket.

  • Like 1
Posted

Away with ya ! Cambelt and clutch on a vivaratragistar is a perfect weekend driveway job 😄

Size and weight of it and it's gearbox gives me the fear though!

Posted

Anyone know how to stop alloy corroding under paint? Alloy doors and bonnet/boot on the BGD and even though matey ground them down at the top, etch primed them, there are a couple of 'spiders legs' on the doors already. It's both annoying and expensive to repair this fucker every five minutes. If I can stop the corrosion now, I can still live with it!

 

I lifted the rubber trims and squirted waxoyl in there a few days ago but wondering if there is anything better/that will work?

Posted

ACF-50.

 

It's sold by bike places & is very thin so it works into the thinnest places.

  • Like 2
Posted

Looking at front brake discs for the Spacerunner. They list them for ABS and Without ABS on amazon, ECP only list one sort.  I cant see any obvious differences between the two.

 

Is there any way to find out ?

Posted

Anyone know how to stop alloy corroding under paint? Alloy doors and bonnet/boot on the BGD and even though matey ground them down at the top, etch primed them, there are a couple of 'spiders legs' on the doors already. It's both annoying and expensive to repair this fucker every five minutes. If I can stop the corrosion now, I can still live with it!

 

I lifted the rubber trims and squirted waxoyl in there a few days ago but wondering if there is anything better/that will work?

Sounds like filoform corrosion:

Filiform corrosion gives the appearance of a series of small worms under the paint surface. It is often seen on surfaces that have been improperly chemically treated prior to painting

Posted

Is it an MOT failure to not have an opening drivers door, inside or outside?

Posted

Yes, it's a fail if the driver's door (or any door) won't open from the outside, front doors must also open from inside. You can "remove" a door by filling all the shut lines, that would lead to an advisory about how much of a PITA it was to get into the driver's seat with no bloody door...

  • Like 3
Posted

Is it an MOT failure to not have an opening drivers door, inside or outside?

post-5532-0-19634000-1474469733_thumb.png

  • Like 2
Posted

 You can "remove" a door by filling all the shut lines, that would lead to an advisory about how much of a PITA it was to get into the driver's seat with no bloody door...

 

LOL - seriously?!

Posted

So I've got the Lawn and Cement back together but it won't start. I thought the fuel pump timing might be 180 degrees out but I've tried it in both positions assuming one is right and it still won't start. WTF LOL HALP? Would it take a lot of priming after sitting for a while with the injector lines disconnected?

 

It's a 2002 Octavia TDI with a VE pump btw.

Posted

The grind and prime approach has only taken the top layer off, the corrosion would have been deeper than was visible and the same issue is coming back through the new paint.

 

It's a cut and weld job or a new panel.

Don't tell him that for God's sake, he'll have it in bits by the weekend.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...