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Posted
Moment of self-doubt help, pls. It is ok to file down a soldering iron tip, isn't it? Only I'm too tight to buy a new one, and the tip's like a club hammer right now, and I have a very delicate job in mind.

Don't want to end up causing an instant Afro, or some other electric mayhem!

 

Edit: also...saw brass wool advertised as being the best thing since sliced bread for one's soldering iron. Never used that before, so has anyone tried it, and is it worth using?

 

you might find the tip will corrode away in use once you file through the outer layer, but only in the long term no kittens will be harmed :D

 

brass wool to clean the tip as you go? bit of damp sponge (type that looks like a slice of bread is best) or a wad of damp tissue will do.

Posted

How did fuelly.com work out my MPG after I only stuck a tenner in? I selected partial fuel up and somehow it still changed my MPG figure, surely you always have to fill it right up.

 

Then I filled it right up and it changed yet again.

 

I though it had to disregard the partial fuel up and then the subsequent fill up, and then start tracking it the next time I fill up.

 

Pedantic I know but I'd like to know all the same.

 

Am I missing a very basic mathematics principle?

Posted
One on oil grades for you ...

 

I have different oils for different cars would it be possible just to get one oil to do the lot?

Currently I've got:

10w40 - mineral for older motors

10w40- semi synth for the boring diesel

5w30 - fully synth for more modern Jap stuff

 

Would there be anything wrong with getting 5w40 fully synth (in bulk) and using it on the lot?

It's not much more expensive than any of the other stuff and would save me faffing about.

 

I reckon you can lob 10w40 semi-synth in the older motors without bother. 5w30 will be too thin for most older stuff. As well as pissing out everywhere, it could actually end up causing engine wear as the motors are designed for a thicker oil. If you're getting diesel-specific stuff, don't worry. You'll do no harm chucking that in older petrol engines. The diesel oil just contains extra cleaning stuff I think.

Posted

Re soldering irons, there are no electric components in the tip, that is a simple rod of metal which can be changed easily by undoing the screw on the side.

If you have a blunt tip and need to do some delicate soldering, wind some bare copper wire (from domestic wiring) around the existing tip, leaving an end pointing out to work with:

 

P1180497.jpg

 

I used that to fix* this mullered usb memory stick.

 

P1180482.jpg

 

Tiny job. Specs off, magnifying glass, the lot!

 

 

 

New Q from me:

Seven seaters. Where the two rearmost are fitted in the boot area, is it an MOT fail for the tailgate not to open from the outside? (Can be opened from inside only.) The owner of the car said it has passed tests like this, but I'd have thought it should be possible to get people out after a crash or somesuch.

If it's a fail, she could just whip out the back seats, could she not?

Ta.

Posted

All closing panels need to be openable, simply so the structure of the vehicle can be inspected. Essentially, these checks should be done prior to logging on, and the test refused on the grounds of this, from the manual.

 

g. A proper examination cannot be carried out because any door, tailgate, boot, engine cover, fuel cap or other device designed to be readily opened cannot be readily opened.

 

There you have it

Posted

But but but...

It can be readily opened. From the inside.

 

(I know it is designed to be opened from the outside as well, but does that matter?)

Posted

DOOVLA/V5 question...

 

Have just waved the Saab bye-bye as the new owner drove off in it, but it looks like he's picked up the V5 along with all the other bumf that went with it and as a result I have nothing to send to DVLA to tell them I no longer own the car, I don't even have his address as it was written on the V5.... :x

 

I don't imagine there's going to be any comeback but if he does go blasting through speed cameras at a zillion miles an hour how could I prove it wasn't me? I have his name, phone number and his own car's reg number and that's it.

 

Is there any way of notifying DVLA of a driver change without the V5 does anyone know?

Posted

^I'd just ring up the DVLA and see what they reckon. I rang them the other week about getting a replacement V5 for the Dedra and the chap was very helpful and friendly, contrary to expectations. Someone else on here reported a recent painless experience with Doovla on the phone, I think. I dare say there's a form for it, and at least it'll put down some sort of record, just in case.

 

0300 790 6802 is the number for vehicle registration stuff.

Posted

Cheers Skizz, I'll give them a bell tomorrow. :D

Posted

I have sent them a letter before now and they were happy enough with it.

Posted

How 'standard' are the bolt spacings for seat runners?

 

The reason I'm asking is that the driver's seat in my Ford Cougar is well past its best, and was never particularly comfortable in the first place. I'm thinking of replacing the two front seats with a vague match (i.e. black leather) from something with seats that are a) comfortable and B) have a tilting backrest, to allow access to the back seats. I was thinking a pair from a Saab 900/9-3 three door or convertible would fit the bill. But would they fit? If they don't, what's involved in getting them to fit?

 

Other 3 door Fords that have leather seats usually have different coloured leather/cloth bits on them and scene-taxed prices, so I have pretty much discounted those.

 

Also, are there any other problems I need to be wary of? Different seatbelt points, or 'owt like that?

Posted

My wife was looking at campervans and came accross an absolute bargain. Alarm bells ringing but messaged the seller asking for a phone number to call to discuss. Seller messages back with more details about the van and his price including transport which is nearly 1k cheaper then the classified ad.

 

Seller says the item must be sold through ebay and to contact him on a different email address as he doesnt log on often even though feedback says 45 items of unrelated tat sold this month.

 

Ok, I know this is a dodgy listing but how exactly does he plan on scamming me from my hard earned cash?

Posted
How 'standard' are the bolt spacings for seat runners?

....Also, are there any other problems I need to be wary of? Different seatbelt points, or 'owt like that?

 

I would guess that making them physically fit isn't too difficult if you're able to fabricate an adaptor or at least drill new mounting holes, but I can see the bigger problem might be getting any seatbelt/airbag warning/heater/wiring gubbins to talk to each other and not show a constant warning on the dash.

Might be better trying to use seats from another Ford product, how about an XKR? :lol:

Posted
My wife was looking at campervans and came accross an absolute bargain. Alarm bells ringing but messaged the seller asking for a phone number to call to discuss. Seller messages back with more details about the van and his price including transport which is nearly 1k cheaper then the classified ad.

 

Seller says the item must be sold through ebay and to contact him on a different email address as he doesnt log on often even though feedback says 45 items of unrelated tat sold this month.

 

Ok, I know this is a dodgy listing but how exactly does he plan on scamming me from my hard earned cash?

 

I suspect you'll be asked for either the full amount up-front or at least a hefty deposit...or they'll fabricate some reason for you to hand over your bank details. Either way, it sounds as dodgy as a dodgy thing

Posted
I have sent them a letter before now and they were happy enough with it.

 

Yup, I phoned that number and spoke to a guy who told me just to send them a confirmation letter with my details and those of the car and the buyer's name and they'll amend their records. All good.

 

Had an email from the buyer this afternoon saying he'd sent the V5 off today so I'm sure it'll all be fine. Was also glad to hear the car made it the 150-odd miles down to Newcastle without a hitch.

I had no reason to assume it wouldn't but Sod's law can be quite overpowering with 20 year old motors on their first long drive in months..... :oops:

Posted

As for the car scam thing, they will say "pay into XXXXX escrow service and I will ship the car. The escrow service will only release the funds to me once you confirm you are 100% happy with the vehicle, otherwise they will collect the car and you will be refunded in full"

The scam is that the escrow service is fake and the money just goes straight to the scammer. The advert will just be a copy/paste of a legit advert.

Posted

/\

 

This. They also usually tell you payment goes through Ebay safety department/bank security then rob you blind.

Posted

Glad the DVLA thing was sorted. You absolutely cannot afford not to let them know about it or you'll get screwed down the line. Looks like I'm still going to have to pay a fine over the Renault 21 Monaco, which I sold years ago. I should have told the DVLA I'd sent the logbook off but I actually told them the truth, which is that I forgot the V5 when I swapped cars with someone, and posted it to him assuming he'd sign it and send it off. He didn't. Since then, I make sure that I send the logbook off - with the BX, I even asked VA to sign it and send it back to me, so I could send it off to the DVLA. I have finally had a piece of paper come through from the DVLA saying I'm no longer the registered keeper of the 21 though. At last. I did send a letter previously but I think they ignored it. When I phoned up recently, they were very helpful and I'm sure that assisted the wheels when my second letter arrived.

Posted
Looks like I'm still going to have to pay a fine over the Renault 21 Monaco, which I sold years ago.

 

it would appear that eventually they sell the 'fine' to a debt collection agency who send out letters every now and then for several years but they do eventually give up :roll:

Posted

A mate has a nissan micra that is apparently "not well", which he is thinking of giving to the fire brigade. Now - I don't know how ill it is, but it's a rather fetching shade of purple mid 90s, pretty much like this:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1997-NISSAN-M ... 4ac20fb7d1

 

I can get more details if anyone is interested or should he wish to get a few notes for it, we should probably take it to the metal scrapman.

 

However - I've never done this - stupid question time: I know I shouldn't ring the "cash for scrap cars" man, but where should I ring? Is there a technical name for the actual depot I can drive it to and walk away with my cheque?

Posted

http://www.cartakeback.com/

 

will give you an instant quote for both collection and a local delivery point.

 

not sure how competetive their values are but looks easy.

 

local transit driving types types or even potentially ebay may give a better price but who wants the potential hassle?

Posted

Can oil viscosity have an affect on idle speed?

Posted

I would have thought it possible on older engines. Gloopier oil will require more shoving around, so might take the tickover down a bit. I wondered why the 2CV was struggling to idle and it seems it's run its crankshaft bearings...

Posted

Well, the oil in my 216's Honda sohc lump was like black piss, it was otherwise healthy, but the idle speed was often double what it should have been. After new GTX in the sump, new filter, and a change of coolant, it idles absolutely fine - just above 1000 when cold, just under when warmed up. Go figure...

Posted

Ha, when I sold the Maestro to G.Cox Esq, Gary went off with the V5 as well as the other paperwork! Obviously it wasn't a problem as he posted it off when he got home. :)

Posted

Honda engines of that vintage have an idle "helper" valve that runs off the coolant temp and lets some more air in when it's cold. If the coolant is a bit low, the idle speed goes haywire.

Posted

Ah. Last week I popped a new 'stat in it (it was slow to warm up), and topped up with tap water (had no antifreeze at home). Idle was still high after that, but it does warm up better. The water level has been good all along. Then, when I did my oil, I flushed out the coolant and put in my purified water* and blue stuff. Since then it has been great. So, I can only guess I had an air pocket near that sensor then.

 

(*I've read somewhere that the mega-hard water we have around here can cause calcite deposits in your cooling system. I have a dehumidifier running in the house all the time, so rather than pouring the limescale-free water away every day, I've saved a bit for the iron, and engines. Can't do any harm, can it? Also ok for batteries.)

Posted

Both Ds are running erratically, some sort of misfire. Trying to analyse the situation, both have backfired, the injection car through the exhaust and the Safari through the carb. Would this indicate an abundance of petrol and a lack of electrickery?

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