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I'll pop into the local Post Office on the way home tomorrow and ask there. I let the girl behind the counter open a parcel i went to pick up yesterday so she could see what it was

 

You REALLY need to order something from a one handed reading material shop now and do the same again.

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As the alternator on the Saab seems to have gone phut it'll be running on the juice in the battery. I have a battery charger so refilling it with electricity isn't really too much of a hassle till I can get it fixed, but my question is this...

 

Can anyone hazard a guess as to how long (in terms of miles/minutes) a fully charged 60A battery would last? It made it the 10 miles or so home today with the occasional flick of the wipers and the sidelights OK, but the wipers and windows were pretty slow by the time I'd parked up, although it started again a couple of times OK.

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Depends massively on the particular car, probably about half an hour max.

Draining much out of a battery will absolutely ruin it, so don't use the car if you can avoid it otherwise you'll be buying a new battery too, as after you've 80% flattened it a few times it'll hold about as much charge as a copper nail in an orange.

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Cheers. :D

I'll have a poke around as soon as it stops raining to see if it's just a loose connection or something simple. Just happened all of a sudden, first thing this morning it was fine, jumped in it again at lunchtime and the warning light came on, briefly went out after 5 minutes or so, then came on and has stayed on since.

Looks to be a fairly straightforward job to change the brushes & regulator with it in situ, but an absolute bastard to take the thing out if the whole thing needs replaced.

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I'm getting the Princess ready for her MoT (again). The bonnet works, but you need to use a prop because the rams are shagged. Is it a fail if the bonnet rams don't hold the bonnet up, even if I provide a prop? If it is, I need to buy some struts, if not I shan't bother.

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Had a chance to fiddle with the Saab's electricity supply today and would appreciate some help/opinions etc...

 

The battery warning light came on suddenly yesterday, previously it had only ever shown itself for a couple of seconds after a start, then gone off as the throttle was blipped up to 2000rpm or so.

Charged up the battery last night, reading 12.9V just sitting on its own.

Put it back in the car this afternoon, started it up and the battery light was still on. Checked the voltage at the battery and the + output from the alternator and it's showing about 12.2V at both points.

Connected a jump lead from the alternator body to the engine block to give another earth - no difference in either reading, still about 12.2V, so I don't think it's a bad earth.

 

At one point it did recover and the light went out, showing about 14.2V for a minute or two before decreasing back down to about 12.2V.

 

So....whole new alternator, brushes & regulator set or something else?

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It's almost certainly worn brushes then. The brief recovery would just be the brush finding a little more travel for a moment. A brush/regulator pack for a little over a tenner is basically a new alternator and, as you say, can be fitted in minutes. Take the old one out and read the number off the back of it, then do some googling to find an equivalent. I got mine from this seller on eBay and it seemed pretty well made. http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Vehicle-Electrics

 

Although there are seemingly thousands of Bosch part numbers there are relatively few variants, each one covering dozens of Bosch numbers.

 

Edit- just had another thought, it could be a bad connection or loose bolt on the engine to body earth strap, in fact the last 900 I saw with charging problems turned out to be exactly that

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Cheers Richard, the earth strap seems pretty secure. I can't really see it or do anything more than give it a good tug ( :shock: ) but it feels sound and the voltage didn't alter when I was trying to move it. The thing's buried under the A/C pump and a few coolant pipes so access isn't that great, getting the regulator out will be fun...

 

Also wouldn't the duplicated earth I tried with the jump lead have ruled out an earth fault or am I barking up the wrong tree? :?

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When/if you put replacement plates on a car, is it true (as I was recently told) that the postcode of the supplier of the car or the plates must go on the bottom of the plates? In other words, can you have plates made up with nothing else other than the numbers and digits?

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When/if you put replacement plates on a car, is it true (as I was recently told) that the postcode of the supplier of the car or the plates must go on the bottom of the plates? In other words, can you have plates made up with nothing else other than the numbers and digits?

 

Depends on the age of the car. Think it is only cars manufactured after 1st September 2001 that this applies to. As long as the plate is in every other way legal it will be fine on pre Sept 2001 vehicles so I am led to believe.

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I've just brought a car back from Ireland that was previously registered in the UK.

I have the Irish v5 type thing, but no UK registration paperwork

I put the old UK reg in to the dvla website and this was what it showed:

 

Date of Liability 01 04 2012

Date of First Registration 28 10 1998

Export Marker N

Vehicle Status Unlicensed

Vehicle Type Approval Not Available

 

Unless I'm mistaken it's not showing as exported, and the tax expired last year, so could I just apply for a new v5 from Swansea?

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With the saab change voltage regulator first. On all my C900s it has been the thing that went and was cheap and two second job to fix.

 

Theoretically yes, but a combination of awkward access (one screw is directly behind the oil filter and I have nothing that will get close to getting at it) and my current physical inability to bend or twist due to a muscle strain means that it may well end up being a garage job. :(

Thanks everyone for their help, I've at least got a diagnosis now and will get the part next week hopefully.

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skattrd wrote:

I've just brought a car back from Ireland that was previously registered in the UK.

I have the Irish v5 type thing, but no UK registration paperwork

I put the old UK reg in to the dvla website and this was what it showed:

 

Date of Liability 01 04 2012

Date of First Registration 28 10 1998

Export Marker N

Vehicle Status Unlicensed

Vehicle Type Approval Not Available

 

Unless I'm mistaken it's not showing as exported, and the tax expired last year, so could I just apply for a new v5 from Swansea?

 

Well, I've just phoned up our friends in Swansea and they confirmed my suspicion.

I can just apply for a new v5, no need to faff about with new UK registration as according to their records it never left the country.

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Defo not worth its own "Tell me about xxxx" thread, but:

 

Sista Roadwork has just, almost completely without warning, chopped in her lovely but dying Puma 1.7 for an '04 Focus ST170. Approx 60k.

 

I'm reckoning these are pretty viceless carriages with a reasonable amount of fun to be offered but, cambelt aside, are there any serious twatfalls?

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