mossymossy Posted April 19, 2016 Posted April 19, 2016 I am looking after philibusmo's fiesta while he is away. It's due an MOT. Giving it the once over I noticed two tyres have sidewall cracks. Is this a definite Mot failure?
SiC Posted April 19, 2016 Posted April 19, 2016 I think its a fail only when the cords/canvas is showing. But I'd still not want to drive at motorway speeds with tyres starting to crack+degrade though.
Rovorsche Posted April 19, 2016 Posted April 19, 2016 I'd check all your system's connections before investing in another alternator. If you can measure between Alternator output, as close as you can get to it without losing fingers and the battery positive you may have found the problem.My Ford Galaxy developed an annoying shortage of electrical power and doing this allowed me to find the shoddy connection in the VW designed high current fuse panel. A seemingly good connection had redesigned itself into a pile of hope and corrosion and let through just enough to keep the charge warning light off.
face Posted April 19, 2016 Posted April 19, 2016 damaged longerons Now I am a spanner-twat and have no idea what the devil 'longerons' are. But I do not want to be told either. In my mind they are either trousers, long green beans, Aston Martins, extended menstrual cycles or items that are generally longer than other examples of the same item. catsinthewelder 1
Lacquer Peel Posted April 19, 2016 Posted April 19, 2016 I'll probably get flamed by fdb for this, but I think it's a posh term for chassis rails.
stephen01 Posted April 19, 2016 Posted April 19, 2016 Now I am a spanner-twat and have no idea what the devil 'longerons' are. But I do not want to be told either. In my mind they are either trousers, long green beans, Aston Martins, extended menstrual cycles or items that are generally longer than other examples of the same item. Round the black country a longeron is the opposite of something short, for example 'pass me the screwdriver, no not that one the longeron' catsinthewelder, stripped fred, Dave_Q and 1 other 4
bub2006 Posted April 19, 2016 Posted April 19, 2016 Xantia of many shiters central locking query. If I lock and unlock passenger door with key all is fine. If I lock drivers door with key then all is fine providing I lock passenger door with the lock button inside car first and same again for central locking on the buttons. Now I've noticed if I lock passenger door first so everything else locks with buttons then unlock car passenger door stays locked. It's confusing me as obviously central locking is detecting it else it wouldn't lock everything from that door. Any help grateful
Sigmund Fraud Posted April 19, 2016 Posted April 19, 2016 IMG_2145.JPGIMG_2146.JPGI am looking after philibusmo's fiesta while he is away. It's due an MOT. Giving it the once over I noticed two tyres have sidewall cracks. Is this a definite Mot failure? No they're not, cracks have to be particularly deep and wide (ooh, er...) for a tyre to fail the MoT. Such shallow cracks (ahem...) seem to be extremely common with modern tyres, I've been told it's due to their composition, something to do with silica content. They do look alerting, but I've driven many thousands of miles on tyres like those and lived to tell the story.
stephen01 Posted April 19, 2016 Posted April 19, 2016 I had to turn fairly tightly over the treshold as I was reversing my Honda out from a garage. I felt the steering resist a little bit and immediately turned the wheel back slightly. Soon after, the system started making squeeling noises when turning the wheel while stationary, even though the fluid level was fine. Also the steering wheel didn't seem to turn smoothly. I flushed the system (the old fluid was really black and had a burnt smell to it) and now it's been fine. Did the system somehow suck in air or is this the first symptom of a pump failing? Don't see any issue with the belt. I'm sure in my Honda book it stats something like 'turning the steering to full lock and holding it there can damage the pump' I've noted that the CRv if you try and push it past the limit it makes a grinding sound, not loud but noticeable. only ever done this a handful of times as I remember the book saying something..
xtriple Posted April 19, 2016 Posted April 19, 2016 I've got cracks between the treads on the dollop I hope they pass 'cos I can't afford any more!
steveo3002 Posted April 19, 2016 Posted April 19, 2016 I've got cracks between the treads on the dollop I hope they pass 'cos I can't afford any more!as long as the cords dont show its advise ...but id not want to go far on shonky tyres xtriple 1
drum Posted April 19, 2016 Posted April 19, 2016 This might not be shite worthy, but as there are a few mechanics and Volvo botherers here - How diyable is changing the crankshaft seal on Volvo V70 D5? Also, how many miles should the clutch last? It's at 114k and might be worth changing while in there.
drum Posted April 19, 2016 Posted April 19, 2016 Alternatively, what's the shitters way of stopping a leaky engine? Any special potions?
sierraman Posted April 21, 2016 Posted April 21, 2016 Leaking what? Oil or water? If it's pissing coolant out nothing short of replacing whatever's wrong. A slight leak like a thermostat housing or radiator then k seal works well. Oil? Again depends what's leaking, I've used Wynns Stop Leak with good success before. You do have to give it time to start to work though.
Chas4545 Posted April 21, 2016 Posted April 21, 2016 This might not be shite worthy, but as there are a few mechanics and Volvo botherers here - How diyable is changing the crankshaft seal on Volvo V70 D5? Also, how many miles should the clutch last? It's at 114k and might be worth changing while in there.Had a few v70s that have been described as having crankshaft oil leaks, usually by stealers. Never done anything to any of them . All survived. If your oil level is not falling then you have a weep, which may still be there, or possibly worse, when you have replaced the seal. If all drives ok and it is not pissing out oil, leave well alone, and go down the pub instead. Sigmund Fraud, drum and Lacquer Peel 3
sierraman Posted April 21, 2016 Posted April 21, 2016 This might not be shite worthy, but as there are a few mechanics and Volvo botherers here - How diyable is changing the crankshaft seal on Volvo V70 D5? Also, how many miles should the clutch last? It's at 114k and might be worth changing while in there.As he said before I'd leave well alone. Changing clutches on 1990's onwards stuff on the driveway is for masochists. Most cars will weep a bit from the main seal as they get old, I'd leave it until it gets bad enough to cause problems with the clutch. Bearing in mind 'while your in there' you might likely find wear to the DMF, plus the cost of a new clutch plate and the concentric release bearing. Could last as long as you make it as far as clutch life, gentle use could see some time before it goes. Start towing caravans and lugging the clutch and less obviously. drum 1
Guest bangerfan101 Posted April 21, 2016 Posted April 21, 2016 So hrh Queen liz was 90 today. Do you think she's necked 10 Stellas and kicked fuck out a corgi yet? Kiltox, The Moog, andrew e and 3 others 6
stripped fred Posted April 21, 2016 Posted April 21, 2016 This might not be shite worthy, but as there are a few mechanics and Volvo botherers here - How diyable is changing the crankshaft seal on Volvo V70 D5? Also, how many miles should the clutch last? It's at 114k and might be worth changing while in there.I went to look at and nearly bought an 05 D5 V70 last year. It had done 198k and was on the original clutch and DMF. A lot depends on how sympathetic the driver is and the type of use it's had. This one had done mostly motorway miles and I got the impression the owner was no boy racer.
catsinthewelder Posted April 22, 2016 Posted April 22, 2016 Hi there... it's Mrs CITW here, on a profile hijack (with permission, Rich is at work) So the bloody 405 just failed it's MOT, and needs a new rear load sensing valve and spring (not just the spring, the whole assembly). A new one seems to come in at around £130-50. Ouch. Phoned the breakers and they don't have one but suggested that the part may be compatible with the 306 or another estate? Can anyone possibly shed any light on whether that would be the case please? Thanks! Imi
Lacquer Peel Posted April 22, 2016 Posted April 22, 2016 Bugger, it's a common failure on 405s. The part numbers above may help, there's one on eBay for £74. I've had a quick look on Service Box and a 306 compensator looks identical but it doesn't bring up part numbers, will check on the laptop when I get home. catsinthewelder and myglaren 2
catsinthewelder Posted April 22, 2016 Posted April 22, 2016 Ah, thankyou, that's/that'd be fab! Bugger, it's a common failure on 405s. The part numbers above may help, there's one on eBay for £74. I've had a quick look on Service Box and a 306 compensator looks identical but it doesn't bring up part numbers, will check on the laptop when I get home.
Lacquer Peel Posted April 22, 2016 Posted April 22, 2016 306 brake pressure regulator 405 brake pressure regulator. (edit: I've looked again it brought up a totally different image for it! Peugeot parts catalogue is glitchy...) They look very similar, but the part numbers are different so I think you need one for a 405.
Lacquer Peel Posted April 22, 2016 Posted April 22, 2016 This is the cheapest I can find so far.http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/brake-power-regulator/ate-03-6583-0037-3_g73_a00303.6583-0037.3.html
3VOM Posted April 22, 2016 Posted April 22, 2016 306 brake pressure regulator 405 brake pressure regulator. (edit: I've looked again it brought up a totally different image for it! Peugeot parts catalogue is glitchy...) They look very similar, but the part numbers are different so I think you need one for a 405.Total guess on my behalf but could they have different "values" or "settings" but look the same physically?
catsinthewelder Posted April 22, 2016 Posted April 22, 2016 Thanks guys I'm now not at work after the Disco had a FTP on the way to collect the kids from school. I picked them up somewhat late in a xlwb van then had a thought and rang Dodgy Tom. He doesn't have the bit I need but suggested that I at least try bodging the valve back into working order before shelling out on a new one. Will give it a go in the morning before ordering the one LP suggested. Thanks again LP, today has been an absolute ballache and someone taking time out to help has been a lifesaver. myglaren and Lacquer Peel 2
HH-R Posted April 22, 2016 Posted April 22, 2016 Do you have to return the counterpart of your driving licence if you've renewed it (10 year expiry)?
Dave_Q Posted April 22, 2016 Posted April 22, 2016 Hi mr and/or mrs inthewelder, I had to do the compensator on my Berlingo which is the same rear axle as a 405. I actually ended up getting it from ECP via whichever of their internet fronts offered the best price via googlable voucher codes. A quick check of my email reveals it was ATE branded and £54.29 after discount. Generally the valves don't break, they either seize up or the spring that attaches to the axle breaks (shit design imo.) Hilariously the spring isn't available separately, the year before I bent a new hook on the old spring and got away with it, but this year I bit the bullet and replaced the valve as various rear end brake pipes needed replacing and wouldn't come out of the valve. Lacquer Peel 1
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