Ask a Shiter

[Kiltox]

I have the one you've linked to at "banggood" (lol!) and it's excellent. Available on eBay from UK sellers for similar money.

 

Still need more specific diagnostics for some stuff but for quick and simple diagnosis it's great

[HH-R]

lol @ "banggood".

[Stanky]

Thanks chaps, £18 on op-com or £20 on a generic jobby - looks like an easy decision then.

[rantingYoof]

Is the 2.5TD engine in this '52 plate V70 the same as the one found in the Mk1 V70s?

 

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201601220328342

 

Seems like a good way of getting a facelift V70 whilst avoiding the D5.

 

It has the same power as the 2.4 20v petrol but I imagine it has torque on its side.

[Lacquer Peel]

I think it's mis-labelled, it has a D5 badge on the back, Total Car Check has it down as a 2401cc D5 SE and 2002 is late for a TDI.

I wouldn't write off the D5, my friend has an earlyish V70 D5 and it's been totally reliable, he's had it for years and does a lot of miles.

[rantingYoof]

So it does.

 

The second stupid question, therefore, is can rantingYoof read or not?

[HH-R]

MG ZT 160 KV6 related question....

Bought from Chompysnake of this parish and am very pleased with the car. Looks and drives very well. Mileage is circa 96K and thus due a change of belts. In the back of the handbook is the service history section which is complete up to 61K in 2008. Thing is, instead of just stating the work carried out, it says " work carried out or recommended"!. In 2007 it has written in " timing belts and tensioners, plus main brake pipes" but no idea if done or just recommended..

Given the religious service history up until, and after then, at 10K intervals am tempted to think that it was actually done rather than just recommended...

As my local friendly garage is looking at north of £500 for the belts/tensioners/waterpump change am tempted to risk the cambelt roulette and just service and drive it tbh.

Are these engines known for self destructing timing belts and engine disaster? No previous experience as never had one up until now...

Chompy has looked after it and all fluids are new looking and correct colour coolant etc...

Am I being paranoid?

 

They're not really known for it but might be due on time anyway. These have three belts, two shorter ones and one long serpentine. £500 doesn't sound too bad, I'm sure the general quote for a KV6 was about £700 when I had my 75 5/6 years ago.

[Bobthebeard]

^^

Thanks for the advice folks. I have decided that it is just too risky to drive it too far without having the belts etc changed. Have given the go ahead to local friendly garage to do the job in May when I possibly have enough* money.

Will only drive it from our static caravan back home until then. Circa 150 miles.

[purplebargeken]

That is not a bad price Dunc. 

[Bfg]

I stand corrected, MG ZT 160 cambelt replacement  This chaps say it cost him £400 including special tools to diy.

 

Those prices aren't Autoshite ...or am I just being a grey bearded old fart !    Perhaps my old Yugoslavian Shitroen wasn't such a dumb arsed purchase after all. ? 

[HH-R]

Supposedly a right pain in the arse to do, it's always been an expensive job on them.

[Rovorsche]

I have two cars that need to go away.

 

My local shed collector (ASM) used to have radio adverts for "minimum £100 for your old car" but right now they are offering £25 if I drive it there, the lack of MOT rules out driving them.

 

Has the price of scrap collapsed so much now I have two garden ornaments ?

 

These cars have baggage which is why I haven't fixed them.

 

A Toyota Yaris 1.0 VVti that was my Ex Wife's car, handed on to my daughter who finished the clutch off by driving like her mother.

A Suzuki Ignis 1.3 in poverty spec, bought as a run about while my daughter saved up to fix the Yaris'sss clutch, mot now expired and many things wrong with it.

 

Rather than fix the Yaris, my daughter bought a smart car with the money she saved so these two cars need to be moved or cubed.

 

Who pays the best money for cars these days ?

[scaryoldcortina]

Nobody. Price is up a bit but still below break even. You'll be lucky to find someone who will collect without charging you.

[The Moog]

Been offered £80 for a v40 from car take back. Which is a bit more than I though.

[sheffcortinacentre]

£50 a ton round here.

[panhard65]

^^

Thanks for the advice folks. I have decided that it is just too risky to drive it too far without having the belts etc changed. Have given the go ahead to local friendly garage to do the job in May when I possibly have enough* money.

Will only drive it from our static caravan back home until then. Circa 150 miles.

The "lady" I bought the ZT from told me the belts had been done by the previous owner, but she also forgot to mention the cat C so I would take that with a pinch of salt. To be honest I found it such a hateful car I wouldn't waste money on the belts when it would be better spent on the rusty rear suspension. One of the back plates was a bit crusty and both rear arms were starting to get pretty scruffy. Good luck with it as it gave me nothing but grief in the short period I owned it, it was so close to getting weighed in.

[Kiltox]

 

I have two cars that need to go away.

 

My local shed collector (ASM) used to have radio adverts for "minimum £100 for your old car" but right now they are offering £25 if I drive it there, the lack of MOT rules out driving them.

 

Has the price of scrap collapsed so much now I have two garden ornaments ?

 

These cars have baggage which is why I haven't fixed them.

 

A Toyota Yaris 1.0 VVti that was my Ex Wife's car, handed on to my daughter who finished the clutch off by driving like her mother.

A Suzuki Ignis 1.3 in poverty spec, bought as a run about while my daughter saved up to fix the Yaris'sss clutch, mot now expired and many things wrong with it.

 

Rather than fix the Yaris, my daughter bought a smart car with the money she saved so these two cars need to be moved or cubed.

 

Who pays the best money for cars these days ?[/quote

Stick a clutch in the Yaris, they sell quickly and for good money

[Bobthebeard]

The "lady" I bought the ZT from told me the belts had been done by the previous owner, but she also forgot to mention the cat C so I would take that with a pinch of salt. To be honest I found it such a hateful car I wouldn't waste money on the belts when it would be better spent on the rusty rear suspension. One of the back plates was a bit crusty and both rear arms were starting to get pretty scruffy. Good luck with it as it gave me nothing but grief in the short period I owned it, it was so close to getting weighed in.

I think that Chompy has sorted a lot of the niggles with the car. No more water leaks into the interior, carpets removed and cleaned etc. Sunroof drains sorted, plenums clean and dry, new pollen filter etc etc. I knew about the cat c but can find no obvious sign of repairs so assume it has been repaired well, or was written off due to slightly dented drivers door or similar cosmetic damage. The rear suspension corrosion was an advisory on the MOT so presumeably if I give it all a serious wire brushing an some Dinitrol wax it should catch it in time...

Any more info on the grief you mention it gave you Panhard? Am curious and it will give me some ideas on what I need to look at/for/fix.

[rantingYoof]

The S60 is on lowish profile 17s at the moment. The alloys are alright, although they appear to have been powdercoated a slightly darker grey at some point as the lacquer is peeling off one of them.

 

I've just started a new job which sees me increasing my annual mileage by 50%, and a lot of that will be done on rural roads which are not in the best condition.

 

I'm toying with the idea of buying a set of four 16" steelies and putting 205 55 16s on them, which are alternative sizes for the S60 (they tended to be on the 2.4 N/As).

 

I'd put all-weather tyres on them. My logic is that having steelies with new tyres on them on is better than having fairly nice alloys with good tyres on them.

 

Is there any fallacy to this logic given the sort of driving I'd be doing? The flip-side is, of course, poorer road surfaces, need for more grip, car is torquey and FWD so it could increase scrabble-tastic fun....

[skattrd]

rantingYoof - that sounds like my normal procedure with cars I get with big/low profile tyres on. I save the original wheels to go back on when the car is up for sale. Smaller wheels/tyres with bigger sidewalls are usually cheaper and give a comfier ride. Check ebay for second hand steels with decent tyres on, I've bought sets for £30-100 with tyres that cost more than that on them.

[gordonbennet]

My lad had an S60, cracking car, sat on 17", i was amazed just how well the car rode and just what astonishing grip the thing had considering it went like hell, doubt the 16" would have much less grip but they would look a bugger untrimmed compared to a bit of TLC and a fresh coat of laquer on your existing alloys.

225/45 x 17's are stupidly cheap if you poke nose about a bit, just over £50 buys you decent non Chinese rubber.

[warninglight]

rantingyoof - You can get the ph2 V70 and S80 with the old VAG engine, only on early ones mind! That would be my choice, I've had a fair few ph1 x70s including a TDi and I found a minty fresh early ph2 TDi for my ex early last year. One owner from new, decent spec and spotless, 2 new rear shocks and It drove like new too, all for £1100. Of course, just like with her Rover 75 CDT which came before it, she couldn't manage more than 35mpg out of it which was a car fault obviously (despite me coaxing 50 out of the Volvo and 55 out of the 75 every time I drove them) so she's now running around in a pov spec Legacy saloon, petrol auto. Which I'm sure is being incredibly efficient. Sorry, that's a bit of a rant, but the ph2 package with the earlier engine is out there, just not so common now and certainly rare in good condition. For looking like a new car at 15 years old, it was looking distinctly more its age by 15.5 years old when she got rid of it...

 

As for the wheel sizes, you'll see a small difference in comfort dropping to 16"s but not a great deal. As has been said, the tyre price difference is minimal these days, and proper Volvo 17"s don't really crack or buckle easily. The only ones I know of that crack are the 18"s as fitted to ph2 S60/V70Rs, my brother has cracked 2 or 3 on that. My commute takes me over the mountains, and the only damage I've ever done was in a massive hidden pothole (looked like a puddle) where I broke the sidewall of a tyre on the C70. No damage to the 17" wheel though!

[Bucketeer]

I saw this yesterday. It looked like some sort of pickup arrangement (the white sticker said '200kg load limit'). Is this something factory spec or is it likely to be a home-made affair?

 

 

 

I know I could probably find out through through some actual research but it's easier to tap into the hive mind. And I'll get a better answer.

[Lacquer Peel]

It's a Suzuki Mighty Boy, the tonneau cover and sides are aftermarket I think.

[Bucketeer]

YESSS! I was hoping it would have some great eccentric Japanese name.

 

 

ETA - From Wikipedia:

 

 

The only regular export markets for the Suzuki Mighty Boy were Australia and Cyprus between 1985 and 1988.

Makes sense then. It does seem well suited to the narrow little Nicosia back streets I found it on.

[Supernaut]

The Ozzies like to do this to Mighty Boys...

 

[xtriple]

It is surprisingly sunny here today.  I have dug the shorts out. Will I regret this action?

[Supernaut]

Yes.

[Bucketeer]

The Ozzies like to do this to Mighty Boys...

 

Poor little thing. That's like grafting horses legs on to a cute kitten or something.

[xtriple]

I are chicken! I put my jeans and a jumper back on and I sweated my tits off! So I should have had the commitment to my shorts. Story of my life, bad decisions....