Ask a Shiter

[xtriple]

How do you change the door trim on the outside of the door on an MX5, the bit that sits by the window? My 'educated'  guess is that it's a door card off job but I'm hoping someone on here knows a bodge....

[djimbob]

Dunno, it could be a steal - you just don't know until you have a good look for yourself. That white turbo-d on ebay would be ideal as a first CX, it sounds like it's been looked after and everything sorted to make it a very useable machine, but it's of little use unless you have a regular journey over 30 miles on open roads - big old Cits are not intended for mantelpiece objects or shopping trolleys. 

 

I've yet to find a car which is as fast, below-the-radar and capable of vast distances in less time than a mainline train as a petrol turbo CX - simply amazing. Unlike the GTi models, engine noise doesn't make itself known as the turbo smoothes and quietens, plus long, long gearing. There's just the steady rush of air as in aircraft, with a ride like a sailing boat on the plane. Can't begin to describe the magic, but it made other very fast and hugely expensive machines feel very ordinary and cheaply engineered.

 

I was drooling over 6 cylinder's CX yesterday whilst picking up the BX for Strange Angel, and you are not helping my infatuation any with these descriptions!! If only I had a potful of cash I would be all over one like a tramp on chips

[forddeliveryboy]

They're even better than that, and over the tens of thousands of miles I covered in them, more reliable than anything I've since owned. But I bought car which were in daily use, with high miles. I reckon you have to be a rapid-ish driver over open, fast, quietish roads to really appreciate them, they're not ideal for suburbia. There's been nothing since in which I could corner as quickly at high speed with such conviction. When you take one apart, it all becomes clear why.  

[strangeangel]

Is all LHM created equal, or is some LHM more equal than others?

[gm]

How do you change the door trim on the outside of the door on an MX5, the bit that sits by the window? My 'educated'  guess is that it's a door card off job but I'm hoping someone on here knows a bodge....

The black plastic / rubber bit that runs along the glass ? It's held on with plastic clips that will almost certainly snap when you try to ever so gently prise it away.

 

The clips are available here

 

http://www.mx5parts.co.uk/door-glass-weatherstrip-clip-mk1-25-p-1219.html

 

but are two quid each !

[Andrew353w]

Is all LHM created equal, or is some LHM more equal than others?

 

 

No, they're not! If you're running a Citroën that uses L.H.M. then always use the genuine stuff. If you're buying from a motor accessory shop then Total's L.H.M. is made to an identical spec. The imitation stuff WILL rot the seals on your car's suspension, leading to huge, catastrophic and mind-bogglingly frightening bills and many days off the road!

[jonathan_dyane]

Really? I've often thought cheap LHM can be thinner but I've not encountered it rotting seals etc

[Andrew353w]

Really? I've often thought cheap LHM can be thinner but I've not encountered it rotting seals etc

 

 

I can only pass on what my Citroën man, John, from Citroenex tells me. Apparently he had a car in his workshop which had been filled with non-genuine L.H.M. resulting in poor ride quality and creaking noises when going over bumps. The repairs took quite some time and the system needed flushing & many seals had been damaged.

 

Frankly for a few extra £s I'd stick to the genuine stuff! I had a similar experience a few years ago when my lower wishbone suspension arms needed changing. Non-genuine ones lasted about 3 months before "banging" on strong braking or accelerating. I replaced with genuine Citroën ones (£300+VAT-GULP!) and the result was an improvement in the ride and no bangs!  3 years later.... still perfect! Sometimes genuine IS best!! 

[forddeliveryboy]

I've known the cheaper LHM weep past the odd deteriorated seal, but nothing catastrophic, sorted by replacing with Total. It is a bit thin, I don't use it - best use the Total oil. Can't see how it would eat the seals, though - it has to conform to Citroen's spec for the fluid. 

[strangeangel]

If you're running a Citroën that uses L.H.M. then always use the genuine stuff.

 

I am, and not just any Citroën either

 

I'll get the dear stuff then, don't want the Autoshite BX dying on my watch.

[Honey Badger]

Not strictly autoshite subject matter, but has anyone here had a Toyota/Lexus Soarer before.

 

Ive always wanted a V8 version and theres a nice red one up on ebay at the moment,  any tips on what to look for and what they are like for daily use?

[stripped fred]

I've been a bit naughty and got tugged for speeding ; copper put 90 on the ticket despite both of us knowing I was going a bit quicker than that... (in my defense i'd just driven 200 odd miles and I was "wagging my tail" as it were....)

 

This was March 10th, and I've heard nowt.

 

Have I got away with it?

Living up to your name outlaw! Was this in the Alfa of much torque? If so I can understand it. Very easy to hit big speeds in that without really trying. I certainly miss the pull of that engine now my daily's a 90bhp 406!

[oldcars]

Shuma's battery drains. If i take it out no drain, hooked up to car drains in a few days. I don't know anything about electrics, mate said to check the earth. Do i just take it off and clean it up? What else can i check?

Just to update this. Been charging the battery since 8am this morn with a aldi/lidl charger and its still not charged. Normal or daffy ducked battery?

[billyboy406v6]

Slow charger may take a while ?

[Jazoli]

Not strictly autoshite subject matter, but has anyone here had a Toyota/Lexus Soarer before.

 

Ive always wanted a V8 version and theres a nice red one up on ebay at the moment,  any tips on what to look for and what they are like for daily use?

 

I've no direct experience but a good mate had one many years ago, it's an old heavy Japanese car and could well be baggy and saggy by now, if it has electronic/air suspension be careful as bits are becoming scarce, they are a great cruiser you will get late 20's mpg on a run but 20 at best round town, they are generally reliable enough, I was looking for a 2.5TT version years ago but bought a Supra Turbo instead as I couldn't find a nice one.

 

This looks pretty smart

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1996-Toyota-Soarer-4-0-GT-L-UZZ31-V8-Facelift-Lexus-/141928484862?hash=item210b98cffe:g:94QAAOSwmmxW5VPe

[rrsix]

This looks pretty smart

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1996-Toyota-Soarer-4-0-GT-L-UZZ31-V8-Facelift-Lexus-/141928484862?hash=item210b98cffe:g:94QAAOSwmmxW5VPe

 

Is it me or does that have 3 parking sensors fitted 2 back 1 front.?

[Kiltox]

What's the cheapest way to get replacement keys cut and programmed these days? (for stuff with an immobiliser / remote but not super modern keyless entry shit)

[The Moog]

What's the cheapest way to get replacement keys cut and programmed these days? (for stuff with an immobiliser / remote but not super modern keyless entry shit)

Got one cut today for the swift from timpsons - £35 including immobiliser chip.

[LC Torana]

My charger is a 2.5 amp jobbie (bought it about 30 years ago) and with a 100Ah battery, takes up to 48 hours if the battery is flat.

[The Moog]

Still got water pouring in the boot of the v40.

 

I have had the panel off and sealed it all with the mastic that was recommended here.

 

It's not the boot seal as that has been siliconed. If I open the boot and lift the tailgate up water pours out of the back of the light cables

 

Any suggestions of where else it gets in?

[Bobthebeard]

MG ZT 160 KV6 related question....

Bought from Chompysnake of this parish and am very pleased with the car. Looks and drives very well. Mileage is circa 96K and thus due a change of belts. In the back of the handbook is the service history section which is complete up to 61K in 2008. Thing is, instead of just stating the work carried out, it says " work carried out or recommended"!. In 2007 it has written in " timing belts and tensioners, plus main brake pipes" but no idea if done or just recommended..

Given the religious service history up until, and after then, at 10K intervals am tempted to think that it was actually done rather than just recommended...

As my local friendly garage is looking at north of £500 for the belts/tensioners/waterpump change am tempted to risk the cambelt roulette and just service and drive it tbh.

Are these engines known for self destructing timing belts and engine disaster? No previous experience as never had one up until now...

Chompy has looked after it and all fluids are new looking and correct colour coolant etc...

Am I being paranoid?

[sierraman]

Scrap Value of a genuine Ford Focus Cat?

[richardmorris]

I'm going to buy a new thermostat for the Mercedes, as I've a suspicion that it's not opening fully. It's perfect when driving, just when stationary the temp rises quite quickly. Viscous fan is fine and strong just doesn't fill me with confidence to the extent that I dread long traffic jams.

 

Stupid question 1. Does this seem less logical? And 2. Is gates a good make?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191742038835?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

This makes it seem easy to replace!

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/212906-pictorial-diy-thermostat-replacement-1996-e320.html

[Lacquer Peel]

Is the water pump okay? Mercs of that vintage have plastic water pump impellers.

I'd buy a genuine thermostat if it isn't horrifically expensive, I've had bad luck with aftermarket ones.

[richardmorris]

Is the water pump okay? Mercs of that vintage have plastic water pump impellers.

Presumably-it's never overheated and runs at about 84 at this time of year. Just when in traffic it will go over 90 quite quickly and when in traffic on the m40 for an hour or two last year did get to 110 before cycling back to95 and up again. Radiator is fine and no leaks and the coolant is blue and up to the mark.

[320touring]

Presumably-it's never overheated and runs at about 84 at this time of year. Just when in traffic it will go over 90 quite quickly and when in traffic on the m40 for an hour or two last year did get to 110 before cycling back to95 and up again. Radiator is fine and no leaks and the coolant is blue and up to the mark.

if it has a viscous fan that sounds like a classic buggered wax clutch.

[Bfg]

MG ZT 160 KV6 related question....

 

..In 2007 it has written in " timing belts and tensioners, plus main brake pipes" but no idea if done or just recommended.. Given the religious service history up until, and after then, at 10K intervals am tempted to think that it was actually done rather than just recommended...

 

As my local friendly garage is looking at north of £500 for the belts/tensioners/waterpump change am tempted to risk the cambelt roulette and just service and drive it tbh.

 

Are these engines known for self destructing timing belts and engine disaster? No previous experience as never had one up until now...Chompy has looked after it and all fluids are new looking and correct colour coolant etc...

Am I being paranoid?

 

my interpretation would be that the belts were done ...as generally speaking any decent garage 'recommendations' are the equivalent to MOT 'advisories',   ie., are in regard to items which may soon or when conditions are adverse effect safety  ..rather than to simply repeat the schedule of maintenance items. 

 

Furthemore, any driver should know that their car is due for a service at 100,000 miles (or else a similar big rounded number),  so to mention only the timing-belts, tensioners and 'the main brake pipe' as a 'recommendation'  would be illogical (imo).

 

 

However......., having just bought an older car with belt driven ohc myself - I looked into lifespans of said belts, and even spoke to the tech support guys at Gates (imo one of the better manufacturers of these belts).  In particular my concern was regarding the longevity of these belts.., being made of rubber an all. 

 

It seems that most motor-manufacturers, and also the manufacturers of these belts, have a 5-year shelf-life and a 1-year after-fitting guarantee. Gates happen to have a 7-year shelf-life and a 2-year after-fitting guarantee.  The difference before & after fitting being because of the effects of heat/cold cycling of an engine in frequent use and the likelihood of oil / engine bay contamination,  verses the closed, dark & hopefully cool, stable in-box environment.

 

Cutting to the chase :  even if your belt was changed 9-years ago ..it is now way passed it's best-sell-by-date..   and when would you expect to change it .. in another five years ??   As almost all engines nowadays have interference engines (piston to valve overlap) - Is it really worth risking the old belt loosing a tooth and your engine suffering very expensively damaged. ?

 

£500 sounds a bundle of money.. have you compared garage prices ? 

fyi : My own (new) belts were about £40 pr.  SKF tensioner rollers, bought through the internet were around about £25 pr.   My car's air cooled but I can't imagine a water pump off the internet would cost so much as to take the task up to that sort of value.   On my car I had to remove the front bumper, the grille panel (front of the car),  the cooling fan,  and the surrounding cowling..  Aside from everday tools (small socket set mainly) ..I needed just one oversized socket, and a torque wrench.   And had I had the experience of doing the job before ..it wouldn't have taken me more than 2 -3 hours to complete the task on my own.

 

Hope that's useful.. Pete

[Kiltox]

Chocolate eBay drop links - anyone had a GOOD experience with them?

 

They're horrendously inexpensive but the last pair I fitted lasted about 3 weeks

[Stanky]

Generic OBD2 code readers - good or bad?

 

I have experience with Vag-Com lite and Op-Com on a laptop, but was wodering how much a generic reader/resetter gizmo cost. <£25 it turns out:

 

http://www.banggood.com/Universal-D990-OBD2-Auto-Engine-Fault-Diagnostic-Scanner-Code-Reader-p-939554.html

 

http://www.dealsmachine.com/best_292589.html?currency=GBP

 

Are these actually any good? If it really is useful then £25 is money worth spending, rather than having to buy the manufacturer-specific software and reader. If not I won't bother and will shelve my plan to get one reader for all future vehicles.

[bub2006]

Mine cost 20 quid 5 year back. Just gives codes in numerical form but its always done what I've needed. Mine is a basic 2 button job,no live data etc.