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Posted

Suspension knocks and bangs seem to be an issue with pretty much anything that sups the diz, the problem I have is that I need a boring 300 mile a week commuter-drone but seek something that isn't boring. the current audi a3 is fine on fuel, reasonably comfy, quick if I need it to be but, ultimately, not much fun. maybe one of those Honda Civic spaceships would be a better bet ? they look pretty funky

The 200 quid Alfa 156 petrol I had was the most fun thing short of a Clio 172 down a back road.

 

It was also the most infuriating squeak/creak ridden bastard of a thing.

 

For 1k I'd be wanting no bangs/squeaks on the suspension front

Posted

a 156 sport wagon is what I'm really fancying, I briefly had a 156 saloon as a company car and it was a load of fun, drank like Ollie Reid but now I'm paying for my own juice, a diz it must be.

Posted

As has already been suggested it is most likely a turbo hose split. Ford turbo hoses are total shit. I had a Focus one lasted just over a year so out of warrenty. Take them off and check carefully I am sure you will find a split, best to buy one of the lurid blue ones off ebay as they are made of decent material and last longer than the originals.

 

Known for the turbo actuator to go offline so the turbo won't erm....actuate rendering it gutless without any code showing, there are two types electronic and...erm not electronic. Elec one has a wee soldered strip that breaks and can be autoshited with a soldering iron and a paperclip or something similarly conductive 

Posted

What do we know about Mercedes ML320s? yeah, no, apart from them being wanker wagons.

 

Full time 4WD or selectable?

low ratio box or not?

centre diff or a viscous coupling or haldex?

do they need all 4 tyres exactly the same like freelanders or are they more robust? 

Lockable diffs or electronic traction control?

Structural rot issues?

Anything else explodey to watch out for?

 

What sort of MPGs would one expect in normal use from an auto box?

 

 

Test drive first IMO they are awful, was convinced the ones we test drove were massively over wide tyred, but no apparently that's what they are like.

 

Im not fussed how it drives, I need to know how the transmission works etc.

Posted

Someone on here has had one a few years, they wrote a good post about it somewhere just a few days ago.

Posted

Im not fussed how it drives, I need to know how the transmission works etc.

 

It converts the rotational force of the crankshaft to that which matches vehicle load / speed with torque converters, planetary gearsets and voodoo.

  • Like 1
Posted

This might be a really stupid one. My old escort mk2 air intake had to be adjusted to summer and winter position (i.e. in winter it faced downward to obviously get heat from the block and less direct cold air).

 

Given the cold temperatures down here today (yes, zero degrees is cold down south!) I was wondering why are engine intakes less affected by cold air these days?

Posted

Because the hot/cold flap is now worked automatically.

Posted

They've also got a more sophisticated system of being able to adjust fuelling etc based on the ambient air temp

Posted

I'm going to replace the clutch fluid on my Santa Fe.

 

Is it just a case of opening the bleed screw and pumping out the old, then refilling the reservoir and bleeding it?

Or should I keep the reservoir topped up until the new fluid runs through?

Posted

I usually use a small bore pipe such as screen washer pipe, transparent for obvious reasons, to siphon the reservoir, then top up with fresh fluid and then bleed it out, you end up with a tiny amount of the old in the bottom of the resy but nothing to worry about.

Posted

Because the hot/cold flap is now worked automatically.

 

 

They've also got a more sophisticated system of being able to adjust fuelling etc based on the ambient air temp

 

Obvious now. Thanks,

 

Google should have been my friend - good summary of it here; http://www.aa1car.com/library/air_temp_sensors.htm 

 

I'm off to clean my MAF out ;-)

Posted

On SIC's thread it was mentioned that if you have an exhaust leak it can screw up the emissions on the MOT test.

I am just wondering how, is it only if the car has its own Lambda sensor and it gets confused?

My simple view seems to be if you have a leak then less bad stuff can make it to the end of the exhaust which should be better!

Posted

No, it's because the MOT lambda sensor is in the probe. Exhaust leaks let extra oxygen into the exhaust gas and mess up the measured ratio.

Posted

I always just assumed that all the leak was leaking out.

 

Thank you for explaining such a simple thing :)

Posted

You definitely can't get a friendly mot tester to slightly pressurise the exhaust with a rag during the test to help bring the lambda into line 😜

  • Like 4
Posted

I'm going to replace the clutch fluid on my Santa Fe.

 

Is it just a case of opening the bleed screw and pumping out the old, then refilling the reservoir and bleeding it?

Or should I keep the reservoir topped up until the new fluid runs through?

a trick that works very well is to lower the level in the res , then use a large syringe or new oil can and length of hose to pump the fluid backwards 

Posted

I think I'll have that problem with the Focus at MOT time, EML is on due to a slight exhaust blow, the blow itself shouldn't cause a fail but the emissions might be high as a result. If it's a small hole a tickle with the welder might be in order. Knocked the light out though weeks ago and it hasn't come back on.

Posted

Blowing exh shouldn't bring the mil on unless it's manifold or between the two oxygen sensors

Posted

It's between the sensors, possibly the gasket between the cat and manifold. I've a concern the Cat is goosed anyway as it feels a lot slower than the old Focus despite it being the same engine. Could be blocked in addition to having a hole in it. It had a new manifold before I bought it. As you say at the back it would make no difference. Trying to avoid the exhaust replacement, did that on the driveway on the old one, right pain, on a ramp it's a piece of cake.

Posted

What do we know about Mercedes ML320s? yeah, no, apart from them being wanker wagons.

 

Full time 4WD or selectable?

low ratio box or not?

centre diff or a viscous coupling or haldex?

do they need all 4 tyres exactly the same like freelanders or are they more robust? 

Lockable diffs or electronic traction control?

Structural rot issues?

Anything else explodey to watch out for?

 

What sort of MPGs would one expect in normal use from an auto box?

 

 

Permanent four wheel drive.

 

Aye. I have been googling.

Internet sez.....

 

Full time 4wd with open diffs all round. non lockable, but uses traction control to direct power to wheels that have the grip.

They have a low ratio, push-button selector to engage it.

open diffs means tyre size isnt super critical and no VCU to burn out.

No major rot problems, cosmetic rust to door bottoms, rear arches etc. Panel fit is apparently shit as standard.

Relatively simple and possible to keep going with DIY maintenance.

Torsion bars on the front, coils on the rear.

MPGs seem to average mid to high 20s, with more possible on a long run.

 

Im tempted.

Posted

It's between the sensors, possibly the gasket between the cat and manifold. I've a concern the Cat is goosed anyway as it feels a lot slower than the old Focus despite it being the same engine. Could be blocked in addition to having a hole in it. It had a new manifold before I bought it. As you say at the back it would make no difference. Trying to avoid the exhaust replacement, did that on the driveway on the old one, right pain, on a ramp it's a piece of cake.

 

Partly blocked cats have a habit of causing exhaust blows due to the excess pressure. I even saw one that cracked the weld around the front of the cat!

Posted

Aye. I have been googling.

Internet sez.....

 

Full time 4wd with open diffs all round. non lockable, but uses traction control to direct power to wheels that have the grip.

They have a low ratio, push-button selector to engage it.

open diffs means tyre size isnt super critical and no VCU to burn out.

No major rot problems, cosmetic rust to door bottoms, rear arches etc. Panel fit is apparently shit as standard.

Relatively simple and possible to keep going with DIY maintenance.

Torsion bars on the front, coils on the rear.

MPGs seem to average mid to high 20s, with more possible on a long run.

 

Im tempted.

 

 

Even my MoT man reckons they're reasonable and there aren't many modern machines he's got a decent word for.

Posted

Partly blocked cats have a habit of causing exhaust blows due to the excess pressure. I even saw one that cracked the weld around the front of the cat!

Could want a new cat then. Fortunately last one I bought was only £45.

Posted

What national chains that are open on a Saturday do MOTs?

 

Would you trust them?

 

The Bavarian Misery Wagon runs out of MOT on Friday the 9th, I'll be able to take it somewhere on Saturday the 10th...

Posted

Most MOT stations are open on Saturday mornings.

 

You can't really say you trust a chain, it all comes down to the individual branch or even tester. Having said that, Lacquer Peel has had good experiences with Halfords.

  • Like 1
Posted

My local halfords autocentre are good blokes. They do Saturday MOT and you can book online for £30

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