Jump to content

Ask a Shiter


warren t claim

Recommended Posts

Posted

It's almost always the rings on the driveshafts, one of them will have split. You don't tend to get a code either, just a brake pedal that pulses when you use it.

  • Like 3
Posted

It's almost always the rings on the driveshafts, one of them will have split. You don't tend to get a code either, just a brake pedal that pulses when you use it.

Are the cheapo £2.99 Ebay ones OK or do you have to go for a good, known name?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RENAULT-CLIO-ABS-RING-DRIVE-SHAFT-ABS-RING-26-TEETH-/140506289380?fits=Car+Make%3ARenault%7CModel%3AClio%7CCars+Year%3A2001%7CPlat_Gen%3AMK+II%7CCars+Type%3A1.2+16V&hash=item20b6d3d4e4:g:--IAAOSwPc9WuJOf

Posted

I think they are all the same tbh, no need for mega expense

Posted

J&R seem to have a decent reputation. The same thing happened on my Xantia estate and I had to pay £70 for the cheapest complete CV joint I could find. About a week later somebody started selling the rings on their own. Just one of the reasons I hated that Xantia.

  • Like 2
Posted

Why am I suddenly seeing several posts by various users that are just a single full stop?

Are things being deleted?

Posted

I posted in the Grin thread, realised that my post was a reply to something three days ago so just replaced it with a full stop since you can't delete stuff but it wasn't relevant. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Then why not just edit it to something relevant instead?

Full stops and blank posts are just clutter.

Posted

Why am I suddenly seeing several posts by various users that are just a single full stop?

Are things being deleted?

 

You can't delete posts anymore, if you post in the wrong thread or something the only way to blank it out is to edit your post as a .

Posted

Is it a MOT fail to have a dirty back reg plate? Only asking because a car I was following today looked as if it hadn't been washed ever.

Posted

Is it a MOT fail to have a dirty back reg plate? Only asking because a car I was following today looked as if it hadn't been washed ever.

If it's unreadable, yes. It's also technically something you can get fined for

Posted

I don't see how adjusting the ignition timing will affect run-on: something that only happens when the ignition is off.

 

Try a "cooler" spark plug? I got into the habit of gently stalling the engine as I switched the ignition off to stop the run-on. 

 

I never had any engine run-on except BMC / Leyland ones, and they all seemed to do it. Because of SU carbs?

 

Didn't some old BL stuff with SUs have a soleniod anti-dieseling valve to stop running on?  MGBs did I think.  Might be worth a poke about to see you have one and it's not playing nicely. 

Posted

Luxobarge locking wheel nut question!

 

My locking wheelnuts on the Jaaaag are a little tired.

Anyone know where I can buy four, bog stock wheelnuts from?

Main stealer?

Posted

Didn't some old BL stuff with SUs have a soleniod anti-dieseling valve to stop running on?  MGBs did I think.  Might be worth a poke about to see you have one and it's not playing nicely.

My first Metro (1.0l) ran on, but my 1.3 Metro didn't, nor did my 1.3 Maestro.

Posted

Running on can also be caused by the idle speed being too high (from experience with tired old Japanese things)

Posted

Luxobarge locking wheel nut question!

 

My locking wheelnuts on the Jaaaag are a little tired.

Anyone know where I can buy four, bog stock wheelnuts from?

Main stealer?

 

mlss_mario-hammer2.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

Running on is caused by the fuel/air mix being ignited by glowing burnt on carbon in the combustion chamber which can be stopped by removing the carbon or taking the fuel/air ratio outside the stoichiomic  ratio usually by an electrically controlled  valve letting in more air.

Posted

OMG Modern Content, look away now if easily offended.

 

The Saab 9-3 (2004, YS3F 1.8t) of daily driveage told me last winter, about this time, that the coolant was low. So I slung some de-ionised water in, perhaps 300ml? The warning went away for 10 months or so until last month, then it bonged and told me the coolant was low again. I added perhaps another 300ml of de-ionised water. Both these times was after a particularly (for the very south of Hampshire) colde night. Probably -2 degrees?

 

Today it told me that the coolant was low again, it took perhaps 300-500ml to top it up a bit above 'cold max' in the header tank.

 

I'm a bit mystified, no mayo on the dipstick or oil filler cap, no white smoke from the exhaust after it has warmed up, not fiddled with anything on the cooling system ever. No indication that the heater matrix is leaking - no mist on the screen, no curry smell Any suggestions?

 

I could lob some k-seal into it which should fix whatever is leaking but thought I'd ask first in case there is something obvious to check. The leak is very slow - I've probably done 20k miles between last winter and the first time it went off this winter, and done about another 4k since then until today when it went bong again. No evidence of drips where I park it either at home or at work.

 

Or keep topping it up as and when, since the car does have the facility to alert me when the level has dropped even a small amount?

 

***EDIT*** could it be a poorly tightened or kippered expansion tank cap? I'll tighten it up a bit more tomorrow morning before setting off to work

Posted

Stanky, the more water you add, the more you are diluting your antifreeze. Top it up with the proper stuff.

 

The loss isnt something I personally would worry about too much at that rate. It could be a slack jubille clip somewhere that seeps slightly when under pressure or something like that.

Posted

Thanks Dave, I probably ought to change it all in the summer anyway but understand that I'm just diluting it at present.

 

I managed to get the cap done up another 1/8 of a turn this morning before setting off, and then when I arrived at work I popped the bonnet with the enging running and watched the expasion tank very closely, no visible drips in ~3 minutes, not puffing any steam out, nada.

 

We shall see.

Posted

Luxobarge locking wheel nut question!

My locking wheelnuts on the Jaaaag are a little tired.

Anyone know where I can buy four, bog stock wheelnuts from?

Main stealer?

16x @ £5lot...? Agreed, Ford but possible Shirley :)

 

TS

Posted

OMG Modern Content, look away now if easily offended.

 

The Saab 9-3 (2004, YS3F 1.8t) of daily driveage told me last winter, about this time, that the coolant was low. So I slung some de-ionised water in, perhaps 300ml? The warning went away for 10 months or so until last month, then it bonged and told me the coolant was low again. I added perhaps another 300ml of de-ionised water. Both these times was after a particularly (for the very south of Hampshire) colde night. Probably -2 degrees?

 

Today it told me that the coolant was low again, it took perhaps 300-500ml to top it up a bit above 'cold max' in the header tank.

 

I'm a bit mystified, no mayo on the dipstick or oil filler cap, no white smoke from the exhaust after it has warmed up, not fiddled with anything on the cooling system ever. No indication that the heater matrix is leaking - no mist on the screen, no curry smell Any suggestions?

 

I could lob some k-seal into it which should fix whatever is leaking but thought I'd ask first in case there is something obvious to check. The leak is very slow - I've probably done 20k miles between last winter and the first time it went off this winter, and done about another 4k since then until today when it went bong again. No evidence of drips where I park it either at home or at work.

 

Or keep topping it up as and when, since the car does have the facility to alert me when the level has dropped even a small amount?

 

***EDIT*** could it be a poorly tightened or kippered expansion tank cap? I'll tighten it up a bit more tomorrow morning before setting off to work

 

Do these still have the cabin heater bypass valve thingy? If so i'd be looking at that.

Posted

There seems to be lots of reference to them in similar-era 9-5s but less about 9-3s, not necessarily saying it itsn't that, just that I have no specific reference to it having one.

 

If it does, what does it look like and where might it live?

Posted

Why are my headlights flickering when there's a heavy electrical load?

 

If I use the heated front or rear screen (or both), the headlights flicker alarmingly.

 

Checked the battery terminals which seem firmly attached.

 

I'm thinking Alternator - possibly regulator.  

 

Checked the belt, that seems OK - not slipping under load so far as I can see.

 

Everything's working OK - battery getting charged, starts the car fine and it will go a week without use and start not problem, with the starter turning strongly.

Posted

I recently bought a set of 14" wheel trims online for the Oldsmobile. Not Poundland and are decent quality but they don't fit. The wheel centres stick out too far. Almost, but not quite as though hub caps were originally fitted rather than trims.

Does anyone want them?

Cost of postage only. Obviously brand new and unused. Set of four.

Edit. Now Sold!

 

post-5532-0-26861100-1481551012_thumb.png

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...