Ask a Shiter

[gordonbennet]

Can anyone recommend a good spark plug removal wrench?

I've never found one worth buying, never have any trouble with the proper sparky plug sockets found in socket sets, well till you somehow manage to lose the bloody rubber insert.

[egg]

have you run the shock search through Amazon just in case there is a bargain to be had?

[Richard]

There's a 50% sale on at GSF at the moment, a full 4% better than the sale they usually have. Code BLACKFRIDAY

[Richard]

Bilstein for £82

 

https://www.gsfcarparts.com/455ni0070

 

https://www.gsfcarparts.com/455ni0080

 

I don't know if Bilstein is landfill now though.

[hhhugues]

Not so much a question but I reckon the turbo on my Mondeo tdci has gone - it had been going into limp mode for ages under heavy acceleration (then just about all the time really), and now it is permanently painfully slow to rev but the limp mode light has gone.

 

Is there any hope it could be anything else, and how can I find out? I cleaned the EGR valve and MAF sensor several times and at first I sometimes felt like it made a difference but in hindsight I doubt it really did. I hardly use the car now that I live in London so don't want to spend a fortune fixing it, but I'd hate to scrap it if there's a chance it could be a cheap fix. The car still drives fine but as I mainly need it for the occasional long motorway drive, the lack of power is really annoying.

 

I know this type of failure on these are old news and there's info online, however I spent ages trying to find answers on forums when it first started to happen then sort of gave up as nothing was really helpful. But, as I visit AS for the first time in yonks, it's just occurred I never asked on here, where common sense and experience always prevail  . Any tips or knowledge to share? 

[wuvvum]

My first Mk3 Mondeo did something similar - turned out to be a split turbo hose.

 

 

Been having loads of fun* with the Innocenti's lights today.  I've managed to get the nearside headlight more or less behaving by fitting a new bulb holder and adding a secondary earth direct to the battery, but the rear foglights baffled me.

 

There was power getting to the light units, and when I ran the multimeter between the live and earth terminals in the light I got a reading of just under 11v - which should be more than enough to light a bulb, but the bulb didn't want to know.  When I ran a separate wire from the earth terminal in the lamp to an earth point on the car body, the bulb immediately lit up, so there's obviously an earth issue somewhere, but in that case why is the multimeter reading more or less full voltage across the lamp terminals?

[Kiltox]

Start with reading fault codes to determine why it was going into limp mode and go from there -turbo failure tends to make itself known a bit more violently than just poor running!

[Honey Badger]

The 2005 Lexus RX300 seems to be due its annual brake disc and pad replacement, it seems to consume discs with the same veracity that I inhale chocolate Hobnobs.

 

The last set fitted were Blueprint and lasted 15000 miles before warping, what makes do the Autoshite collective recommend Apec? EBC? Toyota/Lexus oem?

 

Would there be any benefit to a set of slotted or drilled discs in heat dissipation? Ive always had the view that it less mass of metal in a set of slotted or drilled discs so they must heat up more?

 

Lexus do a fixed price repair of a very reasonable* £295 for front pads and discs (and as many coffees and cookies i can consume) and the tiny ball of anger that is my wife is muttering about getting a "proper job" done by the main stealers which naturally goes against my shiter views and my wish to support the Local garage that does all of our work to a very good standard, I'd rather spend out on better parts and get the local guys to fit them.

[DodgeRover]

I had blueprint on the wife's '02 RX300 and they've been fine but squeal something awful, just like the ones fitted by the lexus specialists who had done it previously.

There's no way I'm spending on the lexus anti squeal kit which is a lot of money per caliper

[steveo3002]

apec and ebc wouldnt be my first choices , is there anything from mintex /ate /pagid/brembo

 

not much you can do louse up the job really....make sure the mounting face is super clean and the sliders are free 

[gordonbennet]

I've been using Mintex pads and discs which are bloody cheap in complete sets discs and pads, got some from a motor factor in Cheltenham via the Bay (possibly e-parts) and also i hear good things about Premier Factors Walsall (ebay or direct).

Full set all round for the Outback was £134 all in, been on nearly 3 years now, little wear and no squealing.

Rear set of discs/pads for me last Landcruiser were about £80odd, again no problems, bloody big discs too and vented for some reason.

 

Never needed drilled or grooved discs, groovy ones i understand can be noisy,  my lad had a set once and wasn't impressed.

 

edit.

Will need a new set of rear pads and discs on the Landcruiser i bought recently next year, just priced 'em up at Premier for Mintex, £60 the lot free del,  handily if you know what your pads look like or measurements, when you click on the right one the ebay listing brings up an outline of the pads in question with measurements, if unsure of part numbers just go online and look up Mintex's own parts catalogue, will find your part numbers from your reg.

[dave21478]

My first Mk3 Mondeo did something similar - turned out to be a split turbo hose.

 

 

Been having loads of fun* with the Innocenti's lights today.  I've managed to get the nearside headlight more or less behaving by fitting a new bulb holder and adding a secondary earth direct to the battery, but the rear foglights baffled me.

 

There was power getting to the light units, and when I ran the multimeter between the live and earth terminals in the light I got a reading of just under 11v - which should be more than enough to light a bulb, but the bulb didn't want to know.  When I ran a separate wire from the earth terminal in the lamp to an earth point on the car body, the bulb immediately lit up, so there's obviously an earth issue somewhere, but in that case why is the multimeter reading more or less full voltage across the lamp terminals?

 

With poor connections its very possible for there to be enough volts to give a reading on a multimeter but not enough current flow to light a bulb.

[Asimo]

^^^This. Digital Multimeter draws about a ten millionth of the current of a bulb so can be misleading. With this sort of fault I use an indicator bulb soldered to a couple of wires to probe around with, easy to find duff earths etc as the bulb will draw about 3 amps.

[sierraman]

Not so much a question but I reckon the turbo on my Mondeo tdci has gone - it had been going into limp mode for ages under heavy acceleration (then just about all the time really), and now it is permanently painfully slow to rev but the limp mode light has gone.

 

Is there any hope it could be anything else, and how can I find out? I cleaned the EGR valve and MAF sensor several times and at first I sometimes felt like it made a difference but in hindsight I doubt it really did. I hardly use the car now that I live in London so don't want to spend a fortune fixing it, but I'd hate to scrap it if there's a chance it could be a cheap fix. The car still drives fine but as I mainly need it for the occasional long motorway drive, the lack of power is really annoying.

 

I know this type of failure on these are old news and there's info online, however I spent ages trying to find answers on forums when it first started to happen then sort of gave up as nothing was really helpful. But, as I visit AS for the first time in yonks, it's just occurred I never asked on here, where common sense and experience always prevail . Any tips or knowledge to share?

Is it smoking?

 

Could be the turbo actuator? Could more likely be the canes sticking in the turbo if it does it on the overboost. There's various stuff you can chuck in to clean the turbo canes but if it's completely choked up then you might have to have the pipework off and clean it down with some oven cleaner. Before you set about that though as others said start with the cheap stuff, take the EGR out and clean it, possibly if it's giving trouble blank it off, though if it's the 130 you'll need the blank with the hole in it to avoid the EML coming on. While your there take the intercooler pipe off and check for splits.

[Craig the Princess]

As it seems to be mk3 Mondeo day did anyone know how to get a radio code from a 2004 one?

[Richard]

If it's the kind with a big volume knob in the middle it's Ford only.

[Craig the Princess]

If it's the kind with a big volume knob in the middle it's Ford only.

Bugger. Cheers Richard

[saucedoctor]

As it seems to be mk3 Mondeo day did anyone know how to get a radio code from a 2004 one?

 

If you know/can find out who the original selling dealer was, give them a ring. Ford dealers have access to a database where the numbers are held. You might have to take the radio out to get the serial number, mind.

 

If it's a 6000CD , you can get the serial number as follows:

• Turn on the unit
• Hold down buttons 6 and 1, and then release 6 (keep 1 pressed).
• The unit will then cycle through a load of stuff. The first screen ends with the serial number of the device:
• Mxxxxxx

[sierraman]

There's a decoder online, no idea if it doesnt work on the newer sets.

[Bobthebeard]

Whilst the MG is away at the LFG having the rear subframe removed and suspension rebuilt ( broken offside coil spring and rotten upper suspension arm... Sigh ) I have resumed work on the Oldsmobile. Interior totally stripped out to remove the horrible oily and soaking wet carpet. Carpet is now out and lies stinking and dripping in the garage. At least I can now, hopefully find the source of the water leak and fix it. Stupid question is how can I clean, and more importantly, dry the carpet? It is thick and heavy with a pre formed rubberised sort of backing.

In summer I would just jet wash the thing and leave it opened up in the sun to dry, but in winter it will never dry I suspect. Just re fit all the seats and carry on without the carpet until next year?

[oldcars]

Whilst the MG is away at the LFG having the rear subframe removed and suspension rebuilt ( broken offside coil spring and rotten upper suspension arm... Sigh ) I have resumed work on the Oldsmobile. Interior totally stripped out to remove the horrible oily and soaking wet carpet. Carpet is now out and lies stinking and dripping in the garage. At least I can now, hopefully find the source of the water leak and fix it. Stupid question is how can I clean, and more importantly, dry the carpet? It is thick and heavy with a pre formed rubberised sort of backing.

In summer I would just jet wash the thing and leave it opened up in the sun to dry, but in winter it will never dry I suspect. Just re fit all the seats and carry on without the carpet until next year?

If you have a wetvac you could jetwash and scrub it then wetvac the worst out and leave it to air dry for a bit.

[Bobthebeard]

If you have a wetvac you could jetwash and scrub it then wetvac the worst out and leave it to air dry for a bit.

Sadly no wetvac. Am now looking into the possibility of hiring one though...

[sierraman]

Put in the airing cupboard with a few of those polystyrene damp absorbers.

 

Instead of wet vac have you thought of steam cleaning it?

[forddeliveryboy]

Good find, thats £82 the pair with the code

What do the pro's say, Sachs or Bilstein? The Bilstein are an extra £9 on the Sachs once delivery is factored in. Free Parcelforce delivery 

 

Gamble at this price, but I fitted a set of 'cheap' Bilsteins to a car which is used fairly hard over roads which are known to knacker dampers, and they're performing as well as ever over 2 years/30k in. A set of KYB on another family car went a little flat feeling (but still worked just fine) after a similar amount of use, as did some Boge/Sachs on a Volvo.

[Bobthebeard]

Put in the airing cupboard with a few of those polystyrene damp absorbers.

Instead of wet vac have you thought of steam cleaning it?

No airing cupboard sadly.... If I had one it would have to be huge! Steam cleaning yes, but how?

The carpet is big and really heavy/unwieldy. Plus wet and smelly...

I can't understand how it got so minging.. Like some previous owner spilt some oil into the car, then poured some oily water on top and sprayed the ensuing mess with milk and urine. It stinks...

[forddeliveryboy]

The 2005 Lexus RX300 seems to be due its annual brake disc and pad replacement, it seems to consume discs with the same veracity that I inhale chocolate Hobnobs.

 

The last set fitted were Blueprint and lasted 15000 miles before warping, what makes do the Autoshite collective recommend Apec? EBC? Toyota/Lexus oem?

 

Would there be any benefit to a set of slotted or drilled discs in heat dissipation? Ive always had the view that it less mass of metal in a set of slotted or drilled discs so they must heat up more?

 

Lexus do a fixed price repair of a very reasonable* £295 for front pads and discs (and as many coffees and cookies i can consume) and the tiny ball of anger that is my wife is muttering about getting a "proper job" done by the main stealers which naturally goes against my shiter views and my wish to support the Local garage that does all of our work to a very good standard, I'd rather spend out on better parts and get the local guys to fit them.

 

Look on ebay and Amazon and if you have time use one of the brake X-referencing sites to find bigger bargains - at a glance, there appear to be good brands available for your car from c£50 for a pair of front discs, and c£20 for pad sets and rear discs. Borg and Beck, QH, Brembo, Ferodo, Delphi etc.

 

I replaced all the brake friction parts on a family V70 earlier in the year, there were some stupidly low prices through Amazon so ended up with a mix'n'match of Motorcraft discs and QH pads on the front with Motorcraft pads and Apec discs at the back, the Mintex handbrake shoes were the most expensive at £11.72, the cheapest the rear pads at 99p. All up incl. p&p was about £60, with unlimited funds it'd be same make pads and discs back and front, but hey! 

 

Performance is spot on, cold or hot, although when stinking hot something does start to squeal. 

[Dave_Q]

I've got one of these for wetvac purposes, pretty good for the price and did a great job of sucking all the mingwater out when I first got my Berlingo and washed the carpets - it had been used as a van.

 

http://www.diy.com/departments/performance-power-corded-240v-bagged-wet-dry-vacuum-pp20-aa/81198_BQ.prd

[Craig the Princess]

<p>

 

If you know/can find out who the original selling dealer was, give them a ring. Ford dealers have access to a database where the numbers are held. You might have to take the radio out to get the serial number, mind.

 

If it's a 6000CD , you can get the serial number as follows:

• Turn on the unit
• Hold down buttons 6 and 1, and then release 6 (keep 1 pressed).
• The unit will then cycle through a load of stuff. The first screen ends with the serial number of the device:
• Mxxxxxx

Cheers, he should be coming round later so I'll have a gander.

[forddeliveryboy]

 

I was wondering (..wandering through my mind).. why were Citroen 2cv and some other older car's wheels so deeply double dished ?

 

 

Beyond the design permitting the perfect centre-point steering geometries of the Michelin-era cars, with the kingpin axis in line with the tyre contact patch, I came to the conclusion it was the lightest, most effective way of producing a wheel which was sufficiently strong but which would distort rather than break a tyre on hitting a big pothole or other obstacle. I've driven 2cvs and DS/IDs over rutted tracks flat out, occasionally there would be a bent rim which was easy to sort, the nave always retained its shape. Tyres (when Michelin) were ok even when the rim was distorted.

 

Citroën's history includes traversing continents before any other manufacturer, so presumably they valued being able to remove a tyre from a rim at a blacksmiths in the middle of China and have the rim hammered back to shape - an hour's work rather than waiting for a delivery which may have taken weeks back in the 1920s.

 

It was also probably a lot cheaper to have a garage remove a tyre and hammer a rim back to shape rather than buy a new tyre, right through to the 1960s.

 

Interesting that this design only came along, I think, with the 1933 Traction Avant which coincided with the purchase of the company by the Michelin brothers. I dunno whether or not Michelin had any say on the wheels, although they were Michelin made. 

[sierraman]

You use one of those handheld steam cleaners, good at getting rid of smells as well.