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Posted
4 minutes ago, Mr Pastry said:

The easiest way is to use the existing regulator terminals as a junction box.  Assuming it is the type with 2 coils, the terminals will be marked A1,  A, F, D, E.

A1 and A are basically the same and are the outputs,  E is earth. 

Disconnect D and F.

Re-connect the wire from F to the small terminal on the alternator.  This is the feed from the warning light. 

Connect the large terminal on the alternator to A1 or A - use a decent sized cable. 

That's all.

+1 for using the correct bracket or at least a through bolt and spacer, there is quite a lot of load and vibration to cope with.

 

 

Thanks, the external Reg is removed but I have pictures of it prior to removal, so should be able to ID the wire that went to F.

  • Like 1
Posted
44 minutes ago, 320touring said:

I am trying to get the correct bracket.

From what I see, if the washers in the front mount are spacing the belt ok and the adjustment slotted bracket is spaced the same so you can adjust the belt, all you need is a spacer on the long rear bolt.

The shiny spacer in the rear alternator mounting lug is designed to slide and prevents the alloy lug from breaking.  Where the long bolt is tightened has pushed it back against the lug. If you take the bolt out and push the shiny spacer back half way, you can put a spacer, stack of nuts/washers in the gap and bolt it up tight. 👍

 

Posted
1 hour ago, Mally said:

Hang some rag on the ends jutting out before you find them with your head!

Thanks. Bits of this will be going on the orange box section ends.

IMG_20240910_195240521.jpg.cfed3fd94caae2d64e8ee4e652d0f792.jpg

  • Like 3
Posted

Had to drive MK1 daughter's astra diesel (11 plate, don't know what variations) back to Norfolk from Luton airport drop off.

I hated it.

Give me a 40 year old range rover classic any day, even with all it's foibles.

That is all

Posted
1 hour ago, 320touring said:

I am trying to get the correct bracket

I'd be reasonably confident someone sells it new off the shelf. Whilst a 1500 B probably isn't as well served as an 1800 alternator conversions have been going since Adam was a lad. Have a look at someone like MGOC spares or similar. Someone will be making one that picks up on the mounting points for the dynamo more than likely.

Glad to here the love for the Oxford is still strong, it's a class car that 👍

Edit- Rimmers amongst others do a full conversion kit for £££ with all brackets bolts and alternator. Hopefully someone will just sell the metal work.

Posted
2 hours ago, 320touring said:

I did say at the top that it self excites when you give it a rev. It did charge previously and doesn't now. I have not changed anything. I'm no spark so don't know why it worked - I think @juular has the same setup on his Amazon?

Indeed, this alternator charges fine with no charge light connected. As I found out when the plug for mine disintegrated.

Posted
3 hours ago, 320touring said:

 

I am trying to get the correct bracket. As alluded to in my post. No real need for the condescension.

The alternator is secured with 3 points all tight and it doesn't move. 

Actually it's not secure and gives an engineer the heebie jeebies.

The long bolt needs a nut on both sides at the bolt head and the alternator  as a minimum. (Can't do it because no threads.)  

As is, the long bolt is loose although you may see it as tight. At speed it will wobble and brake the lug off the alternator.

As a temporary  set up I'd  take both top bolts out and use a long threaded bar right through the whole lot, with nuts either side of everything.

 

Posted
9 minutes ago, Mally said:

Actually it's not secure and gives an engineer the heebie jeebies.

The long bolt needs a nut on both sides at the bolt head and the alternator  as a minimum. (Can't do it because no threads.)  

As is, the long bolt is loose although you may see it as tight. At speed it will wobble and brake the lug off the alternator.

As a temporary  set up I'd  take both top bolts out and use a long threaded bar right through the whole lot, with nuts either side of everything.

 

This is what I was going to buy

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253031578153?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=sE0_HGkfS5y&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=llm_p6cASdC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Should mean I can have a shorter bolt?

Posted
16 minutes ago, 320touring said:

Yes.  The shiny bush should rest up to the new bracket. The alternator slides on the bush. So bush up to bracket and bush should stick out slightly where the nut fits.

You tighten the back bolt fully first, so bush is tight. Nip up the front bolt.

Undo  the bottom adjusting bolt slightly at slotted bracket. Pull alternator to tighten belt, it will swivel round the bush.

Tighten all bolts up. including where slotted bracket fixes to engine.

Ensure the belt pulleys are all in line.

  • Like 3
Posted

If shiny bush doesn't hit new bracket you may need a spacer or a few washers in the gap, but the bush will tap sideways.

Posted
On 09/09/2024 at 18:41, dome said:

I've found these things to be worse than useless, folding under the weight of a normal car. 

You're probably right actually - the Ampera weighs 1,750kg or thereabouts and more than half of that is over the front wheels, so 400kg per wheel isn't going to cut it.

Posted

I'm going on holiday in a couple of weeks (road trip, Belgium - Germany - France) and I'm having a bit of a dilemma as to which car to take.  The obvious choice would be the Merc (because I'll be going on the Autobahn and it's the only car I own that will do 155), but I'm not 100% confident in its reliability - I've been using it as a daily for the last couple of weeks and it's been fine, but there's still a niggling doubt there, especially as to how well it'd stand up to being driven hard. 

I could take the Rover - that's more comfortable than the Merc, I have (almost) complete confidence in it and it should do 130 if I keep my toe in for long enough, which is sufficient.  It's less economical than the Merc though, and I'm quite attached to it so if it did break down and end up having to be abandoned in Europe I'd be gutted.

Then there's the Ampera - again a car I have complete confidence in (or will do once I've replaced the CV boot), and its market value is high enough that if it did break down the AA would probably tow it back to Blighty, but it's limited to 100mph which kind of defeats the point of what will be my first and possibly only drive on unrestricted Autobahnen and hopefully a lap of the 'Ring (I regularly go faster than that driving home from work in the Getz, on the bit of my commute which is on private roads), and it's really not that efficient at those kinds of speeds as the little 1.4 is pretty much flat out, plus the fuel tank is small.

Having driven it more I now reckon the Z4 would manage the trip OK, but it's a bit cramped for a trip of that length, it uses more fuel (it's not bad, but over 2,000 miles the difference will be significant) and it doesn't have cruise control which I think I'd really miss driving through France.

I used to think I was indecisive, but now I'm not so sure.

  • Haha 2
Posted

ampera

possibilty the weather might be garbage so you wouldnt be hooning it anyway

90 is enough when youre dealing with wagons

guess what im doing in two weeks :D

shit peugeot will only do 99 ive had gps 94

Posted
36 minutes ago, wuvvum said:

I'm going on holiday in a couple of weeks (road trip, Belgium - Germany - France) and I'm having a bit of a dilemma as to which car to take.  The obvious choice would be the Merc (because I'll be going on the Autobahn and it's the only car I own that will do 155), but I'm not 100% confident in its reliability - I've been using it as a daily for the last couple of weeks and it's been fine, but there's still a niggling doubt there, especially as to how well it'd stand up to being driven hard. 

I could take the Rover - that's more comfortable than the Merc, I have (almost) complete confidence in it and it should do 130 if I keep my toe in for long enough, which is sufficient.  It's less economical than the Merc though, and I'm quite attached to it so if it did break down and end up having to be abandoned in Europe I'd be gutted.

Then there's the Ampera - again a car I have complete confidence in (or will do once I've replaced the CV boot), and its market value is high enough that if it did break down the AA would probably tow it back to Blighty, but it's limited to 100mph which kind of defeats the point of what will be my first and possibly only drive on unrestricted Autobahnen and hopefully a lap of the 'Ring (I regularly go faster than that driving home from work in the Getz, on the bit of my commute which is on private roads), and it's really not that efficient at those kinds of speeds as the little 1.4 is pretty much flat out, plus the fuel tank is small.

Having driven it more I now reckon the Z4 would manage the trip OK, but it's a bit cramped for a trip of that length, it uses more fuel (it's not bad, but over 2,000 miles the difference will be significant) and it doesn't have cruise control which I think I'd really miss driving through France.

I used to think I was indecisive, but now I'm not so sure.

Volvo 164 surely? :mrgreen: I mean its that or the Innocenti... (tbf to the later, that being mini based probably means it would at least handle half decent round the ring?)

Posted
42 minutes ago, wuvvum said:

I could take the Rover - that's more comfortable than the Merc, I have (almost) complete confidence in it and it should do 130 if I keep my toe in for long enough, which is sufficient.  It's less economical than the Merc though, and I'm quite attached to it so if it did break down and end up having to be abandoned in Europe I'd be gutted.

Well if it breaks down in Belgium (I doubt any of them will) then I know a couple of friendly mechanics I could point you to.

Fatha_Sterling knows a good couple of mechanics in Evere, and my brother is an apprentice mechanic who works in a garage too, and I'm sure if I ask around I can find a transporter if it breaks down anywhere else.

  • Like 2
Posted
1 hour ago, hairnet said:

ampera

possibilty the weather might be garbage so you wouldnt be hooning it anyway

Pah.  I didn't spend a small fortune on brand new Uniroyal Rainsports for the front of the Merc only to drive like a fanny every time it's a bit wet. 

Posted
9 hours ago, wuvvum said:

Car decision ramblings

Merc. Got to see if it’s all ‘still there’. My old 3 series well over 200k went to Croatia and back this summer. It also got its regular German checkup.

 

IMG_4741.jpeg.d78ec4316ea26672ef1eb26d899885b2.jpeg

Posted

Tried polishing headlights on 307CC today.

Parkside 12v polisher with 2Ah battery is an absolute wank though. I burned through two batteries and I’m not really happy with the finish.

Before

IMG_4810.jpeg.18af69ec4467bfe42af36aa0245121a2.jpeg

After:

IMG_4813.jpeg.54ced301d048f290b71324dd8c179cff.jpeg

 

Side by side:

IMG_4814.jpeg.52fc1609db1f2193d889133e742481f5.jpeg

 

7/10.

So like any other sensible man, I got fed up after 2 batteries shitting themselves and went to

 

.

.

.

.

.

.

Buy an entire suite of Lidl’s more powerful 20v system 😂

IMG_4815.jpeg.a41efacb31185b199b8582aceb161f8f.jpeg

It may be 4x the price of getting someone to do it for me, but now I have the tools I’ve been eyeing for a while, and battery uga-dugga to do the rear suspension as well. Surely that’s a net savings, right? 😂

 

Missus is going to kill me.

Posted
41 minutes ago, IronStar said:

Tried polishing headlights on 307CC today.

Parkside 12v polisher with 2Ah battery is an absolute wank though. I burned through two batteries and I’m not really happy with the finish.

Before

IMG_4810.jpeg.18af69ec4467bfe42af36aa0245121a2.jpeg

After:

IMG_4813.jpeg.54ced301d048f290b71324dd8c179cff.jpeg

 

Side by side:

IMG_4814.jpeg.52fc1609db1f2193d889133e742481f5.jpeg

 

7/10.

So like any other sensible man, I got fed up after 2 batteries shitting themselves and went to

 

.

.

.

.

.

.

Buy an entire suite of Lidl’s more powerful 20v system 😂

IMG_4815.jpeg.a41efacb31185b199b8582aceb161f8f.jpeg

It may be 4x the price of getting someone to do it for me, but now I have the tools I’ve been eyeing for a while, and battery uga-dugga to do the rear suspension as well. Surely that’s a net savings, right? 😂

 

Missus is going to kill me.

Have you tried the work light yet? How long does the battery last?

We are going to need a work light as IanBMW is going to put subframe bushes in the Carlton Estate at the FoD without electricity. We have a range of Parkside 20v tools with batteries and charger.

Posted
7 minutes ago, Six-cylinder said:

Have you tried the work light yet? How long does the battery last?

We are going to need a work light as IanBMW is going to put subframe bushes in the Carlton Estate at the FoD without electricity. We have a range of Parkside 20v tools with batteries and charger.

Not yet, I just got back from Lidl. It cost me less than a fiver with a voucher, so it’s probably amazing for the money. 😄 Reporting back as soon as I try it properly.

  • Like 1
Posted

@bobdisk and I went to the Great Cockrow Railway on Sunday, they had a gathering of trains from across the country running. I had no idea it was there, quite close to where I work in Lyne. Well worth a visit, two lines to ride on each about 1.25 miles. (Bob was very good on the trains, didn't scream once. 👍)

LINK

20240908_145627.jpg.76523c0cb300a650926ae52900d14c07.jpg

20240908_145635.jpg.955b2a92768297faf2b95c99402481ef.jpg

20240908_150645.jpg.e3bea7726fc5bf829b89f12100bc1483.jpg

20240908_145820.jpg.f21e2cc39114dc502c71477ef73509a2.jpg

20240908_151931.jpg.69b1ebbafada282af89c07c268a7746d.jpg

20240908_155202.jpg.15e38b5f13c0c8db282b44e808b46361.jpg

 

Posted

Another carburettor on the mighty moped.. it ran ace...

Only thing was I had to suck the fuel tap open, it's brand new, wonder if not enough sucking on the inlet?

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
55 minutes ago, stuboy said:

Another carburettor on the mighty moped.. it ran ace...

Only thing was I had to suck the fuel tap open, it's brand new, wonder if not enough sucking on the inlet?

Does the fuel flow stop immediately if you release the vacuum?

Posted
7 minutes ago, Snake Charmer said:

Does the fuel flow stop immediately if you release the vacuum?

yeah i think so.

Posted

Think this is the first year I've not heard any mention of the September 11th attacks at all

Posted
8 minutes ago, bunglebus said:

Think this is the first year I've not heard any mention of the September 11th attacks at all

Until now. 

Posted
4 hours ago, IronStar said:

Tried polishing headlights on 307CC today.

Parkside 12v polisher with 2Ah battery is an absolute wank though. I burned through two batteries and I’m not really happy with the finish.

Before

IMG_4810.jpeg.18af69ec4467bfe42af36aa0245121a2.jpeg

After:

IMG_4813.jpeg.54ced301d048f290b71324dd8c179cff.jpeg

 

Side by side:

IMG_4814.jpeg.52fc1609db1f2193d889133e742481f5.jpeg

 

7/10.

So like any other sensible man, I got fed up after 2 batteries shitting themselves and went to

 

.

.

.

.

.

.

Buy an entire suite of Lidl’s more powerful 20v system 😂

IMG_4815.jpeg.a41efacb31185b199b8582aceb161f8f.jpeg

It may be 4x the price of getting someone to do it for me, but now I have the tools I’ve been eyeing for a while, and battery uga-dugga to do the rear suspension as well. Surely that’s a net savings, right? 😂

 

Missus is going to kill me.

I already have most of the stuff you have there. I find Parkside stuff pretty good for the price. The ugga dugga gun isn't quite as strong as the old Clarke one I had but that broke and when I looked all the others were so much more expensive. So sometimes I have to start things off with a breaker bar but it does wheel nuts back up fine. 

I also bought a cordless vacuum that runs off the same battery that was on offer for £20. That works just as well as our old cordless that was four times the price. 

Posted
7 hours ago, Six-cylinder said:

Have you tried the work light yet? How long does the battery last?

We are going to need a work light as IanBMW is going to put subframe bushes in the Carlton Estate at the FoD without electricity. We have a range of Parkside 20v tools with batteries and charger.

It’s decent, but not amazing. Worth it if you have batteries laying around, but otherwise very mid. Despite having 3 leds, it’s much stronger in the center. Much better then cheapo lights you get for 5-10 quid, but I’ve seen and used better. Annoyingly doesn’t have a magnet either.

3 hours ago, Yoss said:

I already have most of the stuff you have there. I find Parkside stuff pretty good for the price. The ugga dugga gun isn't quite as strong as the old Clarke one I had but that broke and when I looked all the others were so much more expensive. So sometimes I have to start things off with a breaker bar but it does wheel nuts back up fine. 

I also bought a cordless vacuum that runs off the same battery that was on offer for £20. That works just as well as our old cordless that was four times the price. 

I generally highly rate Parkside tools, I have almost entire 12v offering. To be fair to the polisher, it probably needs 4Ah battery instead of 2Ah ones I have. I’ll get those bought next time they’re around. Their socket sets are absolutely top notch. I knew a very busy garage that used the socket set for years with 0 of them snapping or breaking. The guys there were as impressed as I was.

Only actually bad piece of kit I got from them is an electric jigsaw. That fucker vibrated like there’s no tomorrow, laser was pointing off the line where it was cutting and it was generally shit. We did manage to do most of a kitchen with it, when the head gave up, and melted the plastic insert keeping the saw straight. Sent it off, got replaced with another of the same. Still not great, but much better than example #1. I’ll get a blue Bosch next time I need to cut something actually straight.

I’ll try ugga dugga gun on rear suspension of 307CC. I’ll get a huge fuckoff bar on standby, but I’m really hoping 180Nm is enough to get the bolts out.

Speaking of Parkside tools, I tried polishing the other headlight. The drill is too slow to polish effectively. Which meant back to the polisher. The trick with these batteries is using it for a minute so it doesn’t boil, wait for it to cool down a bit, then do it again. The other side came out much better then first one. I wanted to touch up the left one as well, but backing pad failed on the polishing sponge, so I probably made it even worse than it was after first attempt. I have another sponge, so I’ll try again. I probably didn’t sand far enough either, so might as well repeat the entire process.

IMG_4818.jpeg.7e3b384d4d3497f69f468ecec1a6608a.jpeg

Posted
10 hours ago, stuboy said:

yeah i think so.

Can you easily check to see if it has a tiny air bleed hole in the back side of the diaphragm housing? If that hasn't been drilled or is blocked then it will need high vacuum. Could also have a stronger spring than the old one. 

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