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blackboilersuit

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  1. So the Saab made a return to the fleet a few weeks ago after being out on loan to @captain_70s for the last six months. First order of play was to address the random refusal to start issue as documented in the captains thread. Code reader wasn't giving any clues... But the culprit seemed pretty obvious. Symptoms were sometimes not cranking in the start position, sometimes cranking but not starting and one time cranking, not starting but then bump started as soon as the clutch was lifted. Everything pointed to a faulty ignition switch. Haynes rate getting to the ignition switch as a 3 out of 5 spanner task on the difficulty scale. Can't be that hard can it? Yes it can! Getting the gear change mechanisim disconnected was a real swine as the connection is inside the big anti theft gearchange unit that holds the ignition switch. Eventually swearing and determination paid off and the unit was removed. New* switch was obtained from ebay. And was transplanted into the base of the unit. Back in one piece and Saab goes vroom once more. Might be a heap but it's still a very fast boosted heap. Other minor repairs included a broken key being invisibly* mended with lockwire and araldite. A broken number plate was also replaced as my driving is bad enough in this car so I don't need anything else to draw the attention of the law! A rattle from the back turned out to be a broken exhaust hanger so that got a little attention from the welder. Two issues remained. An airbag fault caused by something in the passenger seat and a fault with the Xenon headlight levelling system. I checked all the obvious things, connections etc in both but to progress these issues really needs the car to be scanned with Tech2 to pinpoint why it's unhappy. At that I did the sensible thing and sold the car! A friend was in need of a cheap estate with a bit of MOT and is a serial Saab fondler so knows the score with all the faults and foibles. I'd always planned to move the Saab on this year as part of a 2021 fleet rationalisation. With the year almost 50% gone I can now say that the fleet reduction plan to sell one car and one bike this year remains on plan. This will probably end badly with a drunken ebay purchase in December but for now I'll celebrate the success......
  2. You sure can. Just search ebay for "silicone elbow" to see what's available. Large variety of diameters and different degrees of bend. You can also get aluminium joiners as straights and bends which make replicating more complex stock hoses possible. I bought these ones simply because it was a big UK based supplier with massive feedback selling branded parts. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/45-90-Degree-Silicone-Hose-Bend-Pipe-Elbow-Air-Water-Boost-Intercooler-Pipes/401823561758?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item5d8e8cf81e:g:SO0AAOSwfmFeKsKt&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkTboA95HSvGa1O5UmCCGJLqaj4cwQYPnk2YPtj1vnojEGf%2BPF9VK4ylLbt7jnRbupsIIbVIkVD9RfXWZ3RTCQWMOdMzHifmihUGC0hr7I4BNkDiHkeuKlRaI9wZwrakPZDRDU%2BIHg2ZSl8j5X3R8pljDKYJVDD0kBCTOe3GuaZf4cGTL4uKrsqcogpON%2BNkq8R%2F6uZdH5OO%2FNeiEGkIVOnO%2B5c8CYwKGV9X%2FTQvmPbWG2AOttz%2Fj9ED5boGhFmBhl8eo4l3EAblcS3ALAO7f5i5BVCt1%2B1g55pAL6%2FyxdCoRQ4jkVoVAZ0EWEC9%2ByJRuWB%2F5ma%2FaIT%2Fe6IVb7azQaBrJvMPGUFQCOe4gfq966aZgyCywn0gplTTM4PLp07xdEuLsdzCwRNKTwbrXocgk0PVPGK3oX71pIvT5Vanz25tl7nm%2FDYvaJQF7Fdtyh5mTVJuIrkQUOQ4Wvu%2FvkVk0YHZeWMZPMGDmO%2BzPZaQ6JNnnkM8Nr7MxduQSYBAjCtYZgyYRTPLvkUKSoizL%2F7U7gFDzsPJsoVr25FczU8mGPVg%2BlEDG9dLp%2Bul6dZdeLdVRYBmWw%2FjUzMeFHAEqLgI6ne2WQCfz4cC3N8c%2BfxSIGR7blBHDlgI290HGa1CH%2Bf%2FtXJZN9u69oyVMrF%2F97fgZ%2B5XzfCEBYnrsvQjLP3BQp90Kv5ObcXg6IhtpHOkP2g%2B5HWnfGJlMW%2B6jEI01IxgIrlFl7g%2ByQDdEFEQrwCIfSfPE8k05DaAqceLasIlXk1tMyJ6HE6yqrSOHo4FGrE1i%2FAw%3D%3D|cksum%3A401823561758f44796b0fbb74734981bd2faac1ed7ee|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524
  3. Bit more Toledo tinkering over the last few days. First up I cashed in a ton of nectar points to get a DA polisher from Argos for a net cost of £0.00. I then set to with a bottle of metallic t-cut chosen because I'd had it lying around for over a decade so it too cost £0.00. Net result was I ended up looling like a smurf... But the bits of the car with good paint looked jolly good indeed. These pics were taken after giving it a coat of MER polish post t-cut. Again the polish was chosen because it'd been lying around forever. Next up was replacing the perished heater hoses. The two 90 deg elbows were replaced with silicone elbows and the two longer shaped hoses were just replaced with good quality coolant/fuel hose. Hopefully they'll last longer than the repo ones that were on the car and falling to bits. The install of the reversing light last year had been somewhat rushed so next I tidied up the wiring and fitted a nice looking lucas copy switch and nameplate both courtesy of ebay. For the time being they're just stuck onto the plate that holds the USB charger for the dash cam that used to be in the car. I also wired in a 12v buzzer so I don't drive off down the road with it switched on. After that I spent a couple of hours driving around, pulling plugs to check colour and adjusting the carb. It's not perfect yet but it's good enough for now. Ever so slightly on the lean side up top but the engine would like to be leaned out ever so slightly at idle. I replaced the jet when I rebuilt the carb so I think the next port of call will be to take a look at the needle. Just me being a bit picky though, for now it runs and drives just fine without pinking or running hot so no sense of urgency.
  4. Prolly just needs a clean up more than anything. In my experience carb rebuild kits normally contain bit's you don't need to change and omit bits that you do. You can end up spending £lots when all you need is a couple of £2 gaskets. I always prefer to strip the carb and make up a shopping list before buying parts. If it runs ok but is flooding then it sounds like the float needle is dirty or sticking. Can be accessed without removing the carb from the car, just remove the top of the float chamber. Cleaning everything up with carb cleaner might be all that's required although there is a good chance you'll need a new gasket for the top of the float chamber. Burlen are the source of parts but it helps to know the exact model of carb fitted as well as the year of the car. This number should be stamped on a little aluminium tag that's screwed to the carb somewhere.
  5. Can you remove the drive belt for the power steering pump and continue with manual steering for the time being? @captain_70s 740 ran like that for some time last year. Steering was a bit heavy but not as awful as you'd imagine. It was only one vee belt that had to be removed on that one IIRC but not sure if your car would be the same.
  6. Bit more Toledo love. Had to wait a while on them being made but these beauties arrived in the post. New front engine mounts. One of the ones in the car was in tatters making the engine sag too low and bounce around too much at idle. There are only 2 choices for replacements. Cheap repo parts that are the wrong hardness of rubber and will be toast inside a year or these beauties that are the correct shore hardness of poly mated to stainless backing plates. £80 a pair but worth every penny. A pair of jacks were deployed and they were replaced one at a time. The totally foobar one came out in two pieces. The other was still in one piece but starting to go bad. Original metalastik so a fair old age. Made a massive difference and worth every penny. With the engine now sitting firm again I could then replace the fan belt. The one on the car was 35mm shorter than standard and I think may have been fitted to stop the alternator hitting the battery with the engine bouncing around on worn mounts. Downside of this shorter belt was you couldn't get #1 spark plug out with the belt on. Correct belt fitted and the alternator still clears the battery and all the plugs can come out. Which is handy because I wanted to pull them to make setting the valve clearances easier. Check out how clean this valve gear is..... Clearances were all still pretty much spot on so to celebrate I painted the rocker cover. Before sticking it back on with a new gasket and giving it a quick run up to temp to charge the battery. Next up is to replace the engine ground strap as the original is too short for the non-standard battery, do an oil and filter change and then some test runs and plug checking to get the freshly rebuilt carb set up. After that it's coolant flushing and heater hose replacement but that can wait until we get some better weather again.
  7. The Toledo still had sealed beam headlights and one of them blew on dip not long after I got the car. So what to do? Dolomite 1300 headlights are a straight swap and have a regular H4 bulb fitment. Downside is they are only available from Rimmers as a complete assembly with the back shell and cost £118 each! While not adverse to spending that much on car parts I didn't want to just yet as the headlamp mounting panels are 50% metal and 50% bran flakes and hope. I will address this in time but wanted a cost effective interim solution. Internet wisdom suggests Bedford Rascal headlights can be made to fit so I rolled the dice and spent £34 on a pair delivered to my door. They are 10mm higher and wider than stock so the retaining rings and adjusters don't fit. They do fit perfectly straight into the bowls though and can be held in with a mixture of old and new hardware that still allows for a degree of adjustment for alignment. The downside is that the front of the lens sits 30mm further back in the car than before so the bowl needs to be packed out from it's mounting panel on spacers. It does look half devent (from a distance) though. While it was apart I rubbed down the grills and sprayed them with some generic silver wheel paint and polished the bumper. Next up was to fabricate a wee bracket to hold some relays ....and wire the hi/low through them to take the strain off the headlight switch. And there you go, nothing award winning and it's still a 30ft car but it's well enough done to last a long while and has functioning lights with replaceable bulbs. I even used lucas bullet connectors to tie into the existing wiring so no original parts have been hacked!
  8. Not as much as yours does though! If you want to have a bitch about other people, please do it elsewhere.
  9. Bit of Toledo tinkering again... Started with a quick job. Chuck on a new starter solenoid and run the engine for a bit to charge the battery. So far so good, solenoid changed and started just fine and once warmed up I thought I'd adjust the tickover slightly........ Tickover screw shrared straight off, stuck fast in the housing. Oh well, carb off to clean and drain before daring to heat up with a blowtorch! It was certainly in need of a clean. All hail the gods of mapp gas. Getting this out took a LOT more heat than I was expecting, it's obviously been stuck for quite some time. Next up was this lot. Jet adjuster nut seized onto the jet bush and the jet bush retainer seized into the body. Again mapp gas came to the rescue. Every linkage was then stripped and every part cleaned carefully on a wire wheel. The wire wheel was then swapped out for a polishing mop to add a little bling. The carb was then reassembled with everything suitably lubed to prevent future problems. Waiting on a few small parts to arrive from Burlens before it goes back on the car. I had intended to do this later in the year as it's always ran a little lumpy and was in need of a tune. Although the broken screw was a pain it's always good to get another job ticked off the list.
  10. Final day on the Berlingo. No access for a grinder so once again the Dremel with a carbide burr is the tool of choice. This cleared all the grot from around the offside rear inner sill to reveal this..... Some very careful welding later and we have this..... It'll do but it's not the prettiest. This area while still being solid is starting to get thin and blowing holes was all too easy. It's good enough for a ticket though and that's all that matters. To sort it the same way I did the other side would need draining the tank to remove the filler neck to give better access so I elected to take the easier of the two options! At the end of the day it's a 200k+ mile, 16yr old van and not a restoration. A quick refresh of the tidemark with a can of stonechip and we're good to go. Ready to be collected and go for a re-test.
  11. Once I sell a car the new owner can do whatever they like with it as long as they don't try and bring it back. Cheerio tae fuck and thank you for your business......
  12. Today I have mostly been repairin' the back of the N/S inner sill and surrounding area. This is what we started with....... Annoyingly the first thing I had to do was cut off the solid gusset to get access to the area where the closing panel between floor, rear arch and inner sill was completely missing. Everything was then cleaned up with a carbide burr on a dremel as that was the only tool physically small enough to fit in the work area. This was a disheartening process as the area behind the arch liner that appeared solid turned out to be 6mm of rock hard factory seam sealer sat on top of bran flakes. Eventually I found something resembling metal to rack the first plate onto and then we were off. Soon the void was covered thus.... After that it was a simple enough job to plate up the inner sill and replace the gusset I had to chop out with a piece of 2mm flat bar. Leaving the finished job looking like this...... Apologies for the photo's not being great but the working space underneath the area in question is somewhat sub-optimal....... Tomorrows job is the other inner sill which looks to be in much better condition so fingers crossed this time tomorrow it'll be all done and ready to be picked up and go for its re-test.
  13. Welding started today..... This... Became this... And this.... Became this... Not perfect but 100x better than all the rest of the "MOT standard" patches already on the sills. Have made a start on the first of the inner sills but was loosing the light so called it a day. Weather permitting will get back on it tomorrow. This is the first significant bodywork I've done since fitting the old clarke welder with a euro torch and it's been a joy to use. Hasn't worked this well in over a decade.
  14. Bling-go has been delivered. Work will start tomorrow weather permitting. I'd forgotten what an ace thing this is.
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