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Father Ted

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14 hours ago, Yoss said:

Was watching this Škoda on ebay, just out of curiosity of course. 

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With 42 minutes left it was on about £1800. I went away to do other things, when I came back... 

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The world truly has gone mad. I think I've missed the boat on these now. 

i papped that few years ago

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As it was Drive It Day today I took the Mazda for a spin round the local back roads.

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That's as far back as the roof wanted to go.

Then I took the Renault 6 to the seaside.

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I didn't stay long as I didn't want it to dissolve.  It's running fine, just as it always seems to, and in the 10-mile run I overtook three dawdling Sunday drivers.  The front offside brake caliper was a bit sticky but that's usual when it's been sat for a while - I'm going to try to see if I can get some grease into the sliders without dismantling the caliper as it's not going to come off the car without a fight.

I spent some time this afternoon investigating the driver's door latch on the Maxus.  It'd been behaving oddly - it was getting hard to get the door to close properly, it'd occasionally pop open when I was driving, and the interior lock button and external lock werehaving an identity crisis - instead of locking the door, pressing down on the button or turning the key made the door open, so the van couldn't be locked.  Turned out the issue was that the lever which the external door handle acts on (which then pulls on a cable going up to the catch mechanism - very Heath Robinson, but then it is an LDV) wasn't returning properly when the handle was released.  Lots of GT85, spray grease and working it backwards and forwards has got it better than it was - it's still not 100% but once the door is shut it can be persuaded to return to its resting position with a couple of good thumps on the door, following which the door can be locked - so that'll do for now.

Did a bit more work to the Mobylette as well - it now has a front brake for the first time in about 20 years, which has reminded me just how fucked the headstock bearings are - I'm going to have to do something about those at some point.  It almost has a working choke too - the new cable is all fitted and ready to go but I've lost one of the ferrules off the outer cable so it's not sitting in the choke lever properly - that's an easy enough fix though.  I also got the universal Chinese switch cluster fitted - now all I need to do is work out which wire is which, I tried taking the thing to pieces but still couldn't really see where all the wires were going so I'm going to email the seller and hope they can help.

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Got a job to do disks and pads and a service on a 2006 Octavia. I wanted to wait until the weekend but the owner is concerned the brakes are on their way out. I had a look and they're a bit low but have a decent amount left in them. I think he's just not used to the Octavia compared to the Citigo he had before.

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22 hours ago, Split_Pin said:

2x free Astra G petrol radiators on my scrap pile if anyone wants them, one for post 01 and one for pre 01 models. Brand new, just out the box this morning.

Bought in error about 15 years ago, nobody wants them so the scrap man is coming tomorrow afternoon together with a pile of other dross. 

Bonnybridge, Central Scotland if anyone wants them before then.

 

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Miles away! Balls! 

Need a rad for my mates  s reg 1.6 8v auto.

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6 minutes ago, Split_Pin said:

I had a mess around with the welder after work. Found some metal thin enough to blow holes in and then sort of learned not to, and then started doing it again. #reallife

This connection from the regulator however is utterly shite and leaks badly. Any ideas how to improve it?

 

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I always used to change them to a solid hose from inside the machine, that stupid little pipe has always been shit on Clarkes. 

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Daughter number 2's Swift passed its MOT today after a 2 year hibernation and leaking oil all over the drive.

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Well pleased with that, I've only had to do an oil service on it. Couple of tyres, droplinks and front pads and good to go for another year.

Even chucked the L plates on and took the daughter round the local estate for an hour this evening.

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After finishing tidying up and repainting the garage, I decided to uncover the Dolomite to put it away.
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I have marked on the floor at 1.7m intervals to try figuring if I could get two cars in.
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Decided I might as well see if I could fit another classic in while I was here to give an idea of the working room.

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It's quite tight but still usable.
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Even if one side is pretty much unusable. I might be able to angle it to give more room on both sides at either front or back though.
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I need to remember only to run the engine outside though. This is with the door open and the exhaust pointing out the back.
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Room for one more?? 🤔🤣
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Also been looking at car lifts as I'm getting to the point in life where rolling under a car on jack stands is getting old. I wanted a scissor lift but height wise they go between 0.5m and 1m. Then you need to add a bit for blocks. So it would just about fit provided I didn't go to maximum height. However then I have the bulk of them being in the way a lot of the time.

Instead I might consider QuickJacks. They only go to 0.5m max (with a new revision to be released soon for 0.6m) but that should be sufficient for most jobs. Much easier (size and weight) to pack out of the away too. They're expensive but still a bit cheaper than a scissor lift.
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Adventures in CANBUS

The Voyager has again performed van duties admirably, by swallowing a 1.7m bath, toilet, washbasin, electric shower and 20m² of wall tiles at BandQ and conveying them home ready for a new bathroom. I tried to reward it and me by attending to the tailgate release switch that didn't. It's a sod to get this out of the tailgate, and then when i put a meter on it, the switch contacts were fine. Yet if i measured between the chassis earth and the switch, it showed 12ohms resistance. Eh?...

Oooohhhh. This'll be a modern though, won't it, with some of that hateful CANBUS witchcraft. Ok, I'll leave the wiring (obvs including some sort of resistor) the fuck alone, clean the white grease out of the switch and regrease with some conductive switch grease instead, before reassembling. Now works as it should, and used to.

Pointless task #2 then presented itself: the wipers on this are embarrassingly rusty. Cue some frenzied scraping, sanding, daubing with rust converter and, a little later, spray painting. Sort of an experiment this: I'd like to know how long a simple derust, treat and paint will last. Being on the wipers, I'll see it on a regular basis so i can monitor for the inevitable return of the worm.

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Speaking of CANBUS witchcraft, CoPart have just taken Mrs_LabRat's Tivoli for breaking. Why scrap a perfectly good 7 year old car, I hear you cry?

No one, not the local garage, the specialist or even 3 different Ssangyong dealerships could get the ABS/TCS light off. The ECU was tested fine, all sensors were showing readings within spec and even the wiring was traced with no issue. We even replaced all 4 wheel bearings just in case (magnetic pick ups, generic ABS code was showing). Ssangyong weren't particularly interested in doing much as its out of warranty on both age and milage, but they'd replace the wiring loom if I paid full price for parts and 3 days labour...

Its a bloody shame to get rid, but nowhere would touch it and to cap it off, 5 months of standing a gravel surface on SORN meant that the rear axle looked like its spent a few years in the North Sea.

Still. On the plus side, she's gone and put a deposit on a bright blue 17 plate Suzuki Ignis with the cash from the Tivoli, so hopefully this should* be more reliable. 

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Must be a day for such things...

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The Subaru of Many Shiters was lifted by the scrapman early this morning, also suffering from an inextinguishable ABS light - plus galloping underside rot (which only manifested in the past few months, in true Subaru fashion) as well as an overfuelling issue that was beyond my mediocre talents to trace and repair.

Decent body + faulty oily bits = fix

Decent engine + crusty panels = weld

Big holes underneath + multiple fault codes = GAME OVER.

Still sad, mind.

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I seem to have fixed the dynamo on the Lanchester by accident.  Had a moment at lunch for tidying up which meant pulling the Lanchester out of the garage, decided to disconnect the dynamo and test the brake light switch as much as I was able (need Pat to help me really, too difficult to DIY).  With the dynamo disconnected it wouldn't be randomly running while testing lights.  Once done, I reconnected the dynamo just in case and now it works fine again.  Bit odd, don't really know what was amiss there, maybe it had just got stuck or something.

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47 minutes ago, LabRat said:

PXL_20220426_095504811.thumb.jpg.0d450fd9ad5fbbcf5b4787e4d8c24140.jpgRest now, good and faithful servant...

Whatever it is will probably be a contender for this thread!

Too late now, but when you say the ECU was checked, did they check the ABS module as well? (Integrated into the pump)

There has to be something causing it, but then I'm not saying I'd be able to find the problem after multiple other garages couldn't!

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2 minutes ago, Liggle said:

Do it, I love mine. Car in the garage, safely up in the air and wheels off in 5 mins.

Good to hear. It ends up taking me 15-20 mins of getting a car up on stands. Pondering the best place to jack and then checking it's stable. 

Which version did you go for?

The 3500 would probably be better for me as it fits stuff like the MG Midget. But the 5000 has extra weight capacity useful for moderns. However they don't really fit smaller classics unless you use them sideways.

I was put off by the cost being not that far off a scissor lift. QJ must be aware of that as they have put FUD out about the scissor lifts not being as good quality as Bendpak products. 🤣

I'd like the extra height of a scissor lift but I'm not sure I want the extra bulk. I've sided towards a scissor in the past because of the extra height. But tbh I don't know how useful that extra half metre is in reality. 

If I get QJ, I'll probably wait till the extra height version comes out. Providing they aren't asking silly extra money for it:

https://www.quickjacklift.co.uk/tl/

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15 minutes ago, RoverFolkUs said:

Whatever it is will probably be a contender for this thread!

Too late now, but when you say the ECU was checked, did they check the ABS module as well? (Integrated into the pump)

There has to be something causing it, but then I'm not saying I'd be able to find the problem after multiple other garages couldn't!

Ssangyong reckoned that they'd checked the whole system, but it kept throwing a lost communication fault code. 

 

I reckon it'll be coming to an auction soon- CoPart have taken it as a trade looking at the invoice. Be a good car if someone can get that damn light out and recondition the back axle. 

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