derskine

Yeah, same here. Buy only what's necessary to keep it running and driving.

I feel your pain - all of my cars are currently fucked too and I'm having to get a lift to work.

It does work for a while. But I certainly wouldn't use it on something like a Zodiac, get it repaired properly. Where is the leak? If on a tank, soldering is a viable option given that it's probably brass.

01. 02. cms206 03. 04. 05. 06. 07. 08. 09. 10. 11. cms206 12. 13. yes oui si 14. 15. derskine 16. 17. tommotech 18. 19. 20. cms206 21. derskine 22. 23. Faker 24. 25. 26. cms206 27. yes oui si 28. New POD 29. 30. 31. 32. 33. 34. 35. tommotech 36. 37. 38. 39. 40. yes oui si 41. 42. 43. 44. 45. Faker 46. 47. Dick Longbridge 48. 49. 50. 51. 52. 53. 54. 55. 56. 57. 58. yes oui si 59.

Anyone who says you can change a Mercedes 190e clutch master cylinder without removing the pedal box is a lying cunt.

Those old Britool shifters are excellent, I've had one for years and it's still going strong despite regular abuse.

Or if you like to gamble https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Weber-32-DIR-93-32dir93-101-Carburettor-Alfasud-Renault-5-Volvo-340/192412870006?epid=4004277751&hash=item2cccb36576:g:hwgAAOSwYVlZ94Hj

Hmm. I think rebuild kits are still available for the Weber 32 DIR carb you have. This may include a new mixture screw? It is a bit odd that they're reliable, and French. But with the electronics encapsulated in a weird adhesive, it's a pretty robust design. This does mean that it's impossible to modify them in any way though.

Perhaps this will help http://www.volvo300mania.com/uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=12241

Volvo 300s always seem to slowly lose coolant for some reason. Both my 340 and my 360 have always done it, with no obvious cause. Same with FOAD's ones too. The idle solenoids on the carbs can give trouble. If you haven't looked at this, this is where I would look next. Timing is also not adjustable on these, the advance is pre-programmed into a EPROM within the Renix unit, so this won't be giving you the issues. In general, the Renix units are very, very reliable. I've not had an issue with one or heard of one before.

The bolts on the 1.4 carb can shake loose, worth trying to nip them up to stop any vacuum leaks. Mine have always been fairly dependable, though I've not really owned a 1.4 properly.

Yes

I was going to fit one to my Cortina. Carlton/Manta gearbox works apparently. Presumably with a transverse one? http://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/114674/vauxhall-astra-isuzu-which-gearbox

Obviously an XUD. All subsequent diesel engines really owe their success to the refinement of the XUD. I love mine.

Put it in 2nd and rock it back and forth usually unsticks it. If it's a manual, of course!

No mayo on dipstick, not pressurising - head gasket probably fine.

The clock in my 205 stays at 01:00 constantly so I didn't need to do very much.

I'd just go for it man and not worry. Nisfan of this parish drove a Datsun Stanza from Whitby to Fife on a booked test.

The rust on that piston looks like it'll give rise to sealing issues at some point, brakes are not something you want to be risking this on.

We only use CO2 at FOADWERX and having used it for a long time I actually prefer it to using argon mix. Perhaps this is because I'm more experienced with controlling the heat with CO2 though.

Old fuel in K Jet systems is bad news. The tolerances are so fine that any gum etc will just fuck it. Diaphragm in metering head could also be dried out? KE-Jet has a lambda sensor doesn't it?

Ah - my apologies, it's a cable on the 360 and didn't consider that the 740 would be different!

It's worth doing regardless if it's interference or not, still shit to end up in the middle of nowhere with a snapped belt. The bite on my 360 was quite high so I decided to change the clutch, the clutch I took out doesn't look that bad, so that sounds right. I'd leave it till it starts slipping I think. You can adjust the cable, which might alter the bite point a little bit.

Questionable. It mentions 530 and 531 heads being okay in that thread on volvoforums but as far as I'm aware, no 530/531 heads had the injector holes for K jet. I was always lead to believe the B200E and B230E were indeed interference due to the higher lift provided by the cam, coupled with the earlier head. Belts are ridiculously easy to change on these, by the way.

If you're planning on selling it then personally I would just slap some hammerite on it.