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captain_70s last won the day on August 25

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About captain_70s

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    A Triumphant Moron

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  1. Its just a better design, as long as you know where the jack is supposed to go (right at the end of the sills) there is no reason to have a mud trap there. I also managed to destroy my phone camera but using at as a torch while welding, got a bit of splatter right on the camera and shattered the glass over the lens.
  2. I note we were never shown the original complaint, could have been well arsey, inspiring an arsey response. I'm also not sure if you'd class them as a premium product given I think they're the only option if you want a custom sized plate for a Rover P5/6?
  3. You need to assault the grotty bits with a heavier poking device, see what's left to save. We've been using the pointy end of a hammer... This bit and the inner arch in particular. It's actually looks quite a lot worse than it was on my car and is quite crucial as far as holding things together goes. When we repaired this bit on the driver's side we braced the door frame with a bit of box section...
  4. Dolly update! Really we've just been welding for the last few weekends... Progress increased as I collected my MIG welder I bought from @Tickman so me and @GingerNuttz could weld simultaneously. There have been various setbacks including, but not limited to. The space heater dying, @GingerNuttz chopping a finger down to the bone with a machete while trying to fix said space heater, my welding helmet dying, @GingerNuttz's welding helmet deciding it was going to start very occasionally not working and giving him arc eye and the finger sander dying. SO have some before/afters
  5. If they've just left a lip on the old rear arch to weld to rather than leave the whole lot intact the arch panels may be salvageable. The amount of filler on my car was obscene, needed loads to smooth over the height difference due to overlapping panels. Aye, my car would probably have survived with its level of bodgery for a long time if it'd been dry stored and only dragged out for the odd sunny weekend...
  6. Aye, the club do a panel that's just the wheel arch lip and another which is the whole lower wing from the wheel arch swage line down. eBay is best bet for the NOS style panels, but they sell fast if on BIN. I nabbed one for £80 on eBay and bought half of another from the club spares secretary for £65.
  7. @GingerNuttzcan attest to the fact the NOS repair panels for the rear arches are ill-fitting garbage. Made sense when they were £40 a pair, now they're £120 a side and usually twisted from storage. Does your car have the plastic splash guards in the front arches behind the headlights?
  8. The Acclaim - Adequate but uninspiring. The Volvo - Subpar, not aided by mine having blown bulbs (Ironically the non-functional fuel gauge is lit up but the working temp gauge isn't)... Finally, @davidfowler2000's Pug 205. Fucking amazing.
  9. 1906. Hm. I guess I should buy a Rover Eight... Although I feel this wouldn't be in keeping with your usual Glasgow tenament resident's income level.
  10. Four. Two on the road, two not. '76 Triumph Dolly 1850HL - Runs and drives. Lives in a field, has been there for years. '77 Triumph Dolly 1300 - Runs and drives, undergoing restoration. '83 Triumph Acclaim L - Road legal, daily commuter. '89 Volvo 740 estate - Road legal, crap hauler.
  11. This poor thing has been shuffled from driveway to driveway of a variety of owners who were adept at sticking on tat and rattle canning the rusty bits black and really bad at actually keeping it roadworthy. The joys of these being practically worthless until the last couple of years...
  12. I wonder if an instructor used to post 2010 cars would actually even register an emergency stop in a car with tiny discs, narrow tyres or all wheel drums. My mates have taken my Dolly and Acclaim for a spin and vocalised about the comparative lack of braking compared to their newer cars and suggested they're in bad condition. In reality both had recent brake work and were operating pretty much perfectly, they're just old designs and it takes less braking force to lock up the wheels on tyres half the width of modern cars. I took my test in my instructors modernish Proton Savvy.
  13. Mine was cheap but it's also tired. 180k, least powerful engine, oldest autobox, saggy rear springs, rusty sills etc. I reckon seeing it through another MOT will bring my total investment to £600ish and with a fresh ticket and a bit of a tidy it'd probably fetch £800-1000 if I were to sell it. It's certainly not the norm to find a road legal 740 for £300 any more... I'd say £250-400 is probably about right provided it's not utterly rotten, I suspect having been sat that amount of time it's going to need plenty of work to get it to a usable state. Hopefully it survives, saloons are an unco
  14. Early 2015. The dream team. I still have both, but they look a bit different...
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