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Posts posted by 0ldCh0d
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Foreigners......When coming to view a car, Some turn up with like x5 others, then all get out, look at the car & talk amongst themselves. Then expect £500 off the price of a £700 car, because of a small, minor chip in the paint etc.
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Any 5 Speed Auto Mercedes From 1998-2006/7, , Including C Class (W202-W203), E Class (W210-W211) ML (W163) & S Class (W220), These are fitted with the usually bullet proof & excellent 722.6, 5 Speed Auto Box.
If you are experiencing loss of drive/reluctance to move when pressing the accelerator when in D or R,
This can be attributed to a couple of things, firstly, The gearbox fluid is more than likely original & fooked & needs replaced. (THESE ARE NOT SEALED FOR LIFE BOXES, as Mercedes Claimed)
When replacing the fluid in these, use genuine Mercedes Transmission fluid only. (That is my belief, Plus it is not very expensive from Mercedes)
Also, You Need to get a Mercedes Transmission Oil Dipstick, as there is not one on the car to check the transmission oil level.
The other one I want to mention is, If you experience loss of drive when driving, I.E, Pulling away from traffic lights, you accelerate as normal, the car is in D, yet it just revs as if it is N, This can also be a Conductor Plate issue, Which is pretty common on these boxes.
This is located underneath the gearbox itself & can be replaced by any decent Mercedes Specialist or yourself if you know what to do. (This is NOT a job to undertake if you are unsure of anything about it) Also, it is NOT a gearbox out job!!!! & it is NOT a "Your Gearbox is fucked mate, Needs Replaced" job eithier!!
These are pretty Bullet Proof Boxes.
It is recommended that you also replace the transmission fluid if replacing the conductor plate. Again, Only use Genuine Mercedes Transmission Fluid. It should take around 8 Litres of Fluid.
The Transmission oil level NEEDS to be EXACT. DO NOT OVER FILL OR UNDER FILL THE BOX.
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VW Golf MK5.........2004-2008
If you happen to get/have one of these & the electric window regulator/s has/have failed (The stupid plastic cable holders dissolve over time) do not attempt to fix it from the inside, by just removing the door panel, as you will not get to the offending item.
You need to remove the outer door skin/panel, which is handily bolted on.
Once outer door skin/panel is off, you will see the offending window regulator. I only know this because I replaced one a couple of months ago.
Oh & the bolts that hold the outer door skin on are different lengths, so DO NOT just put them back in anywhere, they need to go back exactly where they came from.
This also applies if you get/have one that has a dented/scuffed etc door panel, easily replaced, in the correct VW colour.
- RichardK and steveo3002
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- worldofceri, Semi-C, Vantman and 3 others
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I currently run a 2002, 02 plate Mercedes C220 CDi Avantgarde, It runs & drives 100% spot on,& I find it more comfortable & smoother driving, than I did with my recently sold 2010 Octavia VRS. It is also not too shabby on the fuel as well.
Yes, it is a little cosmetically challenged, with a little rust on the bottoms of both rear wheel arches & a little bit around the boot/number plate area. However, It is nothing that I am worried about.
In fact, Just a month ago, it went straight through it's m.o.t, with no advisories whatsoever.
As has been alluded to by The Reverend Bluejeans, These are not known for terminal rot, Unlike say, an equivalent Jaguar X type from the same vintage.
I was not in anyway trying to shoot you down by my previous post Vaughant, I do hope that you sell it.
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Someone I know works for a VW dealer, and a few years ago was telling me when they get one in for part exchange, it's taken straight down to the auctions as they simply daren't offer a warranty on it! Maybe they were bitten with some of the early ones and things have improved since then, but it's fairly telling...
Slightly off topic, but yesterday, at the mechanics garage that I use, He had in a 2010, on a 60 plate, Audi A1 1.4 tfsi, Very smart looking little thing in red, covered just a measly 34,000 odd miles since new.......It had slipped it's timing chain & the pistons had smacked the valves.
7 years old & it's lunched it's engine?....Fuck That Shit. I'm out.
As an aside, My old Astravan 1.7 cdti has now covered nearly 170,000 miles & feels like it could do that again easily. & my Old 2002 Mercedes C220 CDi,has covered 140,000 odd miles & that feels as strong as an Ox.
I do know that the Mercedes Diesels of this vintage can have issues with the Injector seals (Easy enough fix, Just a thin copper washer, Just a bastard to remove if baked in black soot for ages)
But, what I take comfort in is, None of them have DPF shite & the like. If it goes wrong, It is usually a straight forward fix.
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Not Tat....I have a serious lob on for this beauty.......factory fresh with just 44,060 miles... Ooofffffftt...Want! Even at the price...
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Or......This For the same money as my previous post.
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If you were not as far away....I would have snapped that up. Smileys are creeping up in value & I cannot remember the last time I seen an Early(ish) S Reg one.
Cheap at £285.
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From a serial Mercedes Benz licker here, If it is the car in the advert listed above, I would say that £500 is asking too much for it in it's current state. Although, the sunroof is quite a rare option.
Getting parts for these in the scrapyards is surprisingly not as easy as you might think (certainly up here anyway, U-pull it & Sports car breakers) & The ones you do find are usually stripped to within an inch of the bare shell. Yes, there will be the odd few in various scrapyards, but they are not as common in scrapyards as say...An Astra or vectra etc..
I am in no way having a go or anything, merely offering my thoughts. GLWTS.
- djimbob, BorniteIdentity and RichardK
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Mrs. has one of these but a 2.4** with a transfer box - there is info in the handbook about towing for all versions, as well as stickers somewhere, which I can't check because one of the kids borrowed it for a week two months ago.
Anyway the point is that the handbook is the last place most of US look for info, but for this kind of gen handbooks can be really useful.
**I am still in the poo for promising 35 to 40 mpg!
I did not have the handbook at the time of asking. However...I have it now, so will have a little read at it. This one is just a 1.6, 3 door, 5 speed manual.
Have you had any bother with your one? has it been reliable enough?
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The stolen cars they were recovering were depressing. An SD1 and an old Celica coupe!
The other videos from the same person will have you crying then..lol.
More old cars, some worth quite a bit of money now..
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If this video has been shared here before, Apologies.....If not, check out the trucks & sights in this video...
There are more of them on the tube of you....All are equally excellent. Also note.....Health & Safety......lol.
- scruff, Shep Shepherd, Vantman and 2 others
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I had to rescue my old LWB Shogun with a diet engined Clio once.
It worked OK but I only had to do a couple of miles.
If it had needed towed, I was going to be doing it with my Astravan, Which I reckon would have done it no bother, but had it been something like a LWB Shogun or similar, I don't think I would have tried to tow it with the van.
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Does it have a selectable transfer box? If so, just put it in "N"
No, It is the newer shape vitara...
Like this one..
However, Just to update, Me & My Dad went to go pick it up earlier on, I had the towing pole & tow rope, Jump leads (just incase) & the handy
ON TOW number plate in the back of the van.
Upon arrival, We started the vitara up & sure enough, it has a misfire, which clears with a little throttle, but is still noticeable.
Anyway, My Dad reckoned that it would drive to the mechanics under it's own power & we swiftly decided to try it.........& it got there no bother.
So, after the much appreciated advice from everyone on here, it did not require to be towed after all. However, if I had not asked, it probably would have needed towed, knowing my luck! lol.
- Jim Bell, eddyramrod and Barry Cade
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This prime slice of phwoar is currently lowering the value of commercial property in bleakest Suffolk.
Ex W.H Malcolm? They had a few of these & the reg numbers ended LHS.
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If you're towing it with all the wheels on the floor it'll be totally fine.
That is exactly what I wanted to hear. Many Thanks cobblers
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I need a bit of advice here. Today,I acquired a 2005, 55 plate Suzuki Vitara 1.6 vvt, 3 door.
However, it appears to have a misfire/ possibly running on 3 cylinders & as such, it cannot be driven to my mechanic under it's own power.
So, I need to (if possible) tow it to him with my trusty little Astravan, a distance of no more than 2-3 miles max.
However, as I have never towed a 4x4 before, Is it possible to tow it? Or does it need to be taken to him on a transporter?
I know this sounds daft, but I genuinely do not want to try towing it & it fucks the transfer box/diff etc.
It needs moved tomorrow, so advice greatly appreciated.
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2016 results....But recent enough.
http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/95031/steering-wheel-locks-2016-group-test
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I must add, I am in no way suggesting this car is mint, it could be totally rotten upon closer inspection (Which I did not do), But walking past, it caught my eye & it looked ok panel wise, drivers side & rear end, It faces in towards the yard, so I did not see the left hand side of it.
Before Selling Your Car...Check the tyres FIRST!!!
in AutoShite
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I was going to post this in the Ebay Tat thread, but decided that this needs it's own thread.
Tonight, whilst looking at Mercedes on the bay of E, I happened to see this.....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MERCEDES-CKL55-AMG-V-REG-/152622813748?hash=item2389075234:g:IjYAAOSwWdZZZ6sS
Bit overpriced, More likely than not had the shit ragged out of it etc... But, it is a genuine W208 CLK 55 AMG.
Anyway, upon looking at the pictures, this one stood out like a sore thumb......No not the rusty bits.....Check out the state of the Tyre...!!!
I mean......That is surely blow out material?