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I Sold my Mustang :( All Hail and Long Live the Shite Stang!


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#571 OFFLINE   Joloke

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Posted 11 April 2018 - 10:16 PM


Does anybody know what that Silver Box is under the Burnt Wiring? That Copper Coloured Cylinder is that some sort of Ballast?

30629201_2009357612724603_69859771481362

Just Been told tht big metal box is a voltage regulator for the alternator.

Not sure if the new alternator has onboard regulation now as it has a new alternator ;)

Will check tommorow and if it does who knows that burned wiring my be historical and no longer connected?

 


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#572 ONLINE   PhilA

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Posted 11 April 2018 - 10:49 PM

That's entirely possible, yellow/white is the feed from the alternator to the regulator on the diagram.

Phil
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#573 OFFLINE   Joloke

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Posted 12 April 2018 - 12:02 AM

That's entirely possible, yellow/white is the feed from the alternator to the regulator on the diagram.

Phil

I thought that,there are only two Yellow/White leads on that diagram.

One from the tank to fuel guage but I think that will only run from the rear to the instrument cluster?

The other as you say is Alternator to Regulator could of burnt out many moons ago after all the copper wire has gone Green.

If it is still connected it needs to be rectified.


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#574 OFFLINE   Joloke

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Posted 12 April 2018 - 08:54 AM

I got in touch with the seller, vast majority of messy wiring near the master cylinder was for Factory Carburation. now its got an aftermarket they dont use that system.

Some wires disconnected while other things had to be looped aparently otherwise it wont run as the system it has from the factory still needs to see it even if its not in use.

Think it needs tidying up though..........................................................

The Copper Cylinder is a Radio Suppressor.

I am convinced the burnt wire is historical and there are only two wires Yellow with White Dots one from the tank sender which will only go as far as the dash so I am convinced that wire is Alternator to Regulator. Fingers crossed its only burnt that one wire and not anything next to it too?


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#575 ONLINE   PhilA

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Posted 12 April 2018 - 09:47 AM

Makes sense.

I would still pull the loom apart and carefully remove the burned wire and check for damage..

Forgot to mention the copper doojit would be for the radio, probably not needed now but having it won't hurt. Previously the burned wire would have been carrying 3-phase AC which gives that noisy whine on a lot of radios, all the way into the cabin to the regulator. Now it's contained within the alternator and the only output is (moderately smooth) DC. The rest of the noise suppression should be taken up by the battery.


Didn't realize it had aftermarket carb on it! That makes sense now. Yes, that can be routed and tidied up better than they did.

Phil
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#576 OFFLINE   JeeExEll

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Posted 12 April 2018 - 10:16 AM

Making progress on your own there Jo :-)

As said above, make-good at that burnt cable and tidy the rest without disturbing it too much, -even just a few little cable-ties would help. Make sure all existing connections are good tho, not just twisted and taped. Fold-over and tape any chopped off redundant wires.
Once this ropy bit is fixed you can forget about it. Hopefully.

(We still don't know how the damage occurred in the first place).

The jumbly mess at the steering column doesn't look too bad to re-route to the way it should be. There's a chance that brittle connectors may fall to bits with you when you unplug them but it has to be done. Discon battery.
Maybe best leave that till the switch-cam gubbins arrives?
Plenty to do.

A bit of trial & error with seat belt reel angle may solve that problem too.

Edited
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#577 OFFLINE   Joloke

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Posted 12 April 2018 - 11:07 AM

Making progress on your own there Jo :-)

As said above, make-good at that burnt cable and tidy the rest without disturbing it too much, -even just a few little cable-ties would help. Make sure all existing connections are good tho, not just twisted and taped. Fold-over and tape any chopped off redundant wires.
Once this ropy bit is fixed you can forget about it. Hopefully.

(We still don't know how the damage occurred in the first place).

The jumbly mess at the steering column doesn't look too bad to re-route to the way it should be. There's a chance that brittle connectors may fall to bits with you when you unplug them but it has to be done. Discon battery.
Maybe best leave that till the switch-cam gubbins arrives?
Plenty to do.

A bit of trial & error with seat belt reel angle may solve that one too. The new reels supplied should work! Poor show if they've supplied a safety item which doen't.

Edit - I just read your post at your last pic about self-regulating alternator, missed that bit earlier. Couldn't comment on that ATM, the burnt wiring may well be redundant in a functional sense but may still be live and need to be made safe.

Not sure on the alternator yet? Must go out an look Ive got up in one of those "Do I have to go outside moods" today.

Its warm in hre and i have hot tea and my Jim Jams dont want to leave me right now LOL!

Regarding the connector I am ordering another one of those too you can get the socket part with wires so just incase ;)

Truth be known I think it all just needs renewing,steering column cotains Turn signal Can and Ignition Switch no point taking it apart and just doing one.

Will replace headlight switch to as that seems intermittant.

Not looking forward to dashboard theres only one light that illuminates,The seat belt light LOL!

Gen Light,Main Beam,Directions all dead :(

Its high time I went in search of the fusebox too lets hope thats ok?


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#578 OFFLINE   Joloke

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Posted 12 April 2018 - 11:14 AM

Makes sense.

I would still pull the loom apart and carefully remove the burned wire and check for damage..

Forgot to mention the copper doojit would be for the radio, probably not needed now but having it won't hurt. Previously the burned wire would have been carrying 3-phase AC which gives that noisy whine on a lot of radios, all the way into the cabin to the regulator. Now it's contained within the alternator and the only output is (moderately smooth) DC. The rest of the noise suppression should be taken up by the battery.


Didn't realize it had aftermarket carb on it! That makes sense now. Yes, that can be routed and tidied up better than they did.

Phil

Will do fingers crossed its just that one wire! Not sure it is in the alternator but its looks a modern type it may however just be an old reman? ill check later to see if theres a regulator on the backside?

Those burnt wires are so green and fured up I do wonder if it occured with its original Alternator Many years ago?

Alternar does its job I checked the batter when running it was 14v I think it if was still runing through that wire it wouldnt be giving such a healthy reading?

I better go and check my curiosity is getting the better of me!


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#579 ONLINE   PhilA

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Posted 12 April 2018 - 11:54 AM

Gen light might still be hooked to the old regulator can. Bulb might also be blown. Check with Vulgalour or use shakable magic 8-ball for suitable answer.

Alt is charging so the field windings are being energised somehow, so that's a good start. May have an internal ground with output for light. You might be right on the border of internal regulated alternator so the new one may look the same but be all internal. Old regulator may have gone short somehow and melted the wires.
Sadly it doesn't take burned wires long to go green, so that's hard to tell.

Pull the plug off the regulator and see what happens to the voltage...
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#580 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 12 April 2018 - 12:13 PM

Not sure on the alternator yet? Must go out an look Ive got up in one of those "Do I have to go outside moods" today.

Its warm in hre and i have hot tea and my Jim Jams dont want to leave me right now LOL!

Regarding the connector I am ordering another one of those too you can get the socket part with wires so just incase ;)

Truth be known I think it all just needs renewing,steering column cotains Turn signal Can and Ignition Switch no point taking it apart and just doing one.

Will replace headlight switch to as that seems intermittant.

Not looking forward to dashboard theres only one light that illuminates,The seat belt light LOL!

Gen Light,Main Beam,Directions all dead :(

Its high time I went in search of the fusebox too lets hope thats ok?

 

Do the headlights switch dipped/main via the indicator stalk as in most cars?

 

Your intermittent fault could be down to the stalk again if so. Normally the feed goes from the headlight switch to the dipped/main switch & then off to the lights, so a fault there could take out both parts of the headlight circuit.


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#581 OFFLINE   Joloke

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Posted 12 April 2018 - 12:30 PM

Gen light might still be hooked to the old regulator can. Bulb might also be blown. Check with Vulgalour or use shakable magic 8-ball for suitable answer.

Alt is charging so the field windings are being energised somehow, so that's a good start. May have an internal ground with output for light. You might be right on the border of internal regulated alternator so the new one may look the same but be all internal. Old regulator may have gone short somehow and melted the wires.
Sadly it doesn't take burned wires long to go green, so that's hard to tell.

Pull the plug off the regulator and see what happens to the voltage...

Well ive been out cant really get to the back of the alternator so wedged my phone down there and took a photo.

30657069_2009676346026063_70458161504421

I am thinking that it doesnt have onboard regulation but then again not all alternators have them screwed to the back it could be the sort you have to take apart to get to it?

Interesting thing is it has a ground post but the wire has been chopped from it....................

Obviously a reason for that?

Havnt pulled out the burnt wiring yet but do know something for definate now.

The trunking its contained in doesnt branch into any other loom under the hood one end terminates at the Voltage Regulator the other goes through a bung in the firewall on the drivers side........................................

Would hazzard a guess it goes to the ignition?

Meanwhile.................................................


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#582 OFFLINE   Joloke

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Posted 12 April 2018 - 12:31 PM

Do the headlights switch dipped/main via the indicator stalk as in most cars?

 

Your intermittent fault could be down to the stalk again if so. Normally the feed goes from the headlight switch to the dipped/main switch & then off to the lights, so a fault there could take out both parts of the headlight circuit.

No its a foot operated switch like old Minis ;)

And that doesnt work either! 

Meh.................

Meanwhile...........................


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#583 OFFLINE   Joloke

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Posted 12 April 2018 - 12:41 PM

So!!!

I contact the seller,ask him about that wiring,"its not needed he says its got a new aftermarket carb doesnt need that" When it first arrived here I could see shiny carbage under the airbox but never investigated further................

I thought itll be a rebuild Motorcraft 5100 model of much wheezyness :(

When he said Aftermarket my heart fluttered and though maybe the upgrade Holley 2 Barrel ?

Well I will just leave these pictures here whist I go change my underwear......................

Should move well dont you think?  ;)

:mrgreen:

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#584 ONLINE   PhilA

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Posted 12 April 2018 - 01:03 PM

Okay no, that's an external regulated alternator.

The big black wire on BAT is what the original yellow/white one should have been; that will have gone to the distribution point in the footwell.
Likely they just jumped it to the nearest battery+ (acceptable). That connector has been in there a while, that is aged damage.
Regulator in footwell still doing things, don't sack it off!

Phil
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#585 OFFLINE   JeeExEll

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Posted 12 April 2018 - 01:27 PM

YOWZAAA, that's a carb :-)

It's a 600cfm too.

https://www.summitra...600vs/overview/
(Read the reviews, mojo-boost).

That was worth getting out of bed for. Result.
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#586 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 12 April 2018 - 01:54 PM

From the looks of it Jo your alternator set up is more or less identical to that on my big block. They are indeed as Phil said, external regulated.
If you need it I might be able to compare how mines wired V’s yours.

I had to replace my alternator and voltage regulator when I got my car, both were toast! Both parts are still available new. I’ve even got a new alternator ‘in stock’ at home somewhere!

Love that carb btw! She’s huge!! Someone’s spent a bit on this car before.
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#587 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 12 April 2018 - 02:52 PM

Oh ripsnorting noises when you fiddle the loud peddle now that's a result!


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#588 OFFLINE   Joloke

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Posted 12 April 2018 - 03:36 PM

Okay no, that's an external regulated alternator.

The big black wire on BAT is what the original yellow/white one should have been; that will have gone to the distribution point in the footwell.
Likely they just jumped it to the nearest battery+ (acceptable). That connector has been in there a while, that is aged damage.
Regulator in footwell still doing things, don't sack it off!

Phil

So you reckon the other end of the chared wire goes to the footwell?

Im guessing the Earth cable doesnt matter as the Alternator is grounded throuht the bracket to the block and back to the frame?

Bit confused so the Batt Connection should have the yellow wire on? Do I need to move things around?

Was talking to Sam about it and we come to the conclusion if that circuit was iffy now it would be making smoke signals so if its not now I guess it shouldnt if we replace it with new shiny wire?

 


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#589 ONLINE   PhilA

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Posted 12 April 2018 - 03:55 PM

So you reckon the other end of the chared wire goes to the footwell?
Im guessing the Earth cable doesnt matter as the Alternator is grounded throuht the bracket to the block and back to the frame?
Bit confused so the Batt Connection should have the yellow wire on? Do I need to move things around?
Was talking to Sam about it and we come to the conclusion if that circuit was iffy now it would be making smoke signals so if its not now I guess it shouldnt if we replace it with new shiny wire?

Ground goes through engine and ground strap back to the body yes.

Burned yellow/white wire on diagram goes from BAT terminal of alternator to a junction with the solid yellow near the regulator. Likely what they did was jump that black wire straight to the battery + (which is fine). Go see if you can find where it goes, it may be connected at the starter relay or thereabouts.
As the original is toast the black wire replaced it. This is good and also why you get 14 volts when it's running.

I would say just pick through the loom and check for heat damage where the original yellow/white wire burned.

Phil
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#590 OFFLINE   Joloke

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Posted 12 April 2018 - 04:25 PM

Just thought I would share this with you,went to see the guy who is going to MOT SS today to explain the hold ups. He is old school as long as its Safe,Starts,Stops,Lights,Horn Yadda Yadd it will pass....................

I said about the seatbelts he said does it need to have any?

LOL!

I said I was worried so he said if mine has just passed yours will be OK ;)

Do you wanna see my daily he asked??

So he took us outside and showed us this......................

Thought you guys might like it ;)

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#591 OFFLINE   Christine

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Posted 12 April 2018 - 06:32 PM

Marvellous :-D


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#592 ONLINE   Yoss

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Posted 12 April 2018 - 06:35 PM

So!!!I contact the seller,ask him about that wiring,"its not needed he says its got a new aftermarket carb doesnt need that" When it first arrived here I could see shiny carbage under the airbox but never investigated further................
I thought itll be a rebuild Motorcraft 5100 model of much wheezyness :(
When he said Aftermarket my heart fluttered and though maybe the upgrade Holley 2 Barrel ?
Well I will just leave these pictures here whist I go change my underwear......................
Should move well dont you think?  ;):mrgreen:https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t...https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t...



Don't really know what I'm looking at but it's shiny so I like.
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#593 OFFLINE   Joloke

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Posted 13 April 2018 - 08:39 AM

Yep, Joloke, don't worry, can all be fixed. I found a diag for the 75 model Shitestang on the net when looking for some other stuff to do with the fuselink problem a few weeks ago. :-)

It's posted as 2 separated diagrams, 'view' & zoom in.

https://i.imgur.com/jqVbpwS.jpg...

https://i.imgur.com/Rp4YypN.jpg...

Do you have a link to where you found these? Tried right clicking to save but wont let you do that here :(

Though I have diagrams in my HBOL this one is much easier to follow


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#594 OFFLINE   Joloke

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Posted 13 April 2018 - 08:42 AM

Do you have a link to where you found these? Tried right clicking to save but wont let you do that here :(

Though I have diagrams in my HBOL this one is much easier to follow

Its ok quoting your post generated a link LOL!

Now saved!

As you were..........................


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#595 OFFLINE   Joloke

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Posted 13 April 2018 - 09:56 AM

Been checking the Haynes Book of Lies on their diagram it shows the Black wire from Battery + on Alternator and later on the large Yellow Wire is spliced to that and in turn the little Yellow/White Dot attatched to the Large Yellow.

So I guess it changed at some time between the diagram here and the one I have?

I have a theory here.................

We jumpstart the car,keys are jambed and to be fair we were not sure if it was in run or start or limbo :(

Theres an overload for some reason it starts to try to melt the fusible link but didnt quite do it (remember after I taped it up we actually started it on that link so current got past that link :( ) so it travels up the wire to its splice at the other end!

Lets face it that little wire is less capable to take that current than the fusible link so that has a little melt too :(

I am wondering when its replaced is it worth using a heavier gauge or should it be linke for like?


I would hazzard a guess that Ford used the itsy bitsy wire as a cost cutting exersize?

It would appear that the wire goes from the splice right into the regulator?

Except it doesnt!

At the base of my Regulator the only wire close is a Large Yellow same as the one its supposed to be spliced to.

Also shows small yellow/white dot goes to suppressor the fact that the Large Yellow goes all the way over there I do wonder if this small yellow/white only has the Job of feeding the radio suppressor?

I assumed it went through the bulkhead as thats where the trunking goes but it may just be spliced inside the trucking? Or inside behind the bulkhead I guess?

Two Scenarios that wire is actually burnt through and disconnected or if its still connected despite the covering go its still working?

If its the second theres no harm replacing it?

I guess I could probe the exposed wires with my multimeter for voltage?

 


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#596 ONLINE   WilsonWilson

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Posted 13 April 2018 - 10:30 AM

I cant help at all but Im enjoying the thread. That carb looks like it wants to do a burnout.
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#597 OFFLINE   JeeExEll

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Posted 13 April 2018 - 10:36 AM

Morning Jo.

Sounds like you're quite confident it goes to the suppressor.

So, - (with the battery disconnected!),

cut the wire nearer the suppressor (not too close, you may need to connect a new wire on here, make things easy for yourself, so long as you know the wire is not burnt),
and put the multimeter (on Ohms resistance setting) between the bared cut end and any point you can get to where it's spliced into yellow.
A low or zero Ohms reading will confirm it's the burnt wire (hopefully).

Do this and see what you get . . . .

Scenario 1 - It is the same wire.
Cut the fucker back at the other end, Make the end still connected into the loom safe - fold and tape well, or deadend connector it or whatever.

Scenario 2 - hopefully not necessary . . . .
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#598 OFFLINE   Joloke

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Posted 13 April 2018 - 10:54 AM

Morning Jo.

Sounds like you're quite confident it goes to the suppressor.

So, - (with the battery disconnected!),

cut the wire close to the suppressor (not too close, you may need to connect a new wire on here, make things easy for yourself), and put the multimeter (on Ohms resistance setting) between the bared cut end and any point you can get to where it's spliced into yellow.
A low or zero Ohms reading will confirm it's the burnt wire (hopefully).

Do this and see what you get . . . .

Scenario 1 - It is the same wire.
Cut the fucker back at the other end, Make the end still connected into the loom safe - fold and tape well or deadend connector it or whatever.

Scenario 2 -

I could just check the connection without cutting it,theres a bullet connector ;)

I am having one of those cant be assed days though :(

Bloody Weather :(

Meh!!!


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#599 OFFLINE   JeeExEll

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Posted 13 April 2018 - 10:58 AM

Even better.
Unplug at suppressor and multimeter it as I've described. Cut it also back near where it's spliced into the loom, measure resistance end-to-end. Leave enough wire at the loom to join a replacement wire onto.

Presumably zero /-ish Ohms end-to-end. Try it to find out.
Note, "1" on the multimeter, which it shows most of the time on resistance setting, doesn't mean "one Ohm".

Get yo lazy ass out there. It's not going to fix itself.
Yesterday you were rewarded by unexpectedly finding you had a newish 600cfm 4-barrel carb fitted. See what today brings.

:-)
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#600 OFFLINE   Joloke

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Posted 13 April 2018 - 11:42 AM

Even better.
Unplug at suppressor and multimeter it as I've described. Cut it also back near where it's spliced into the loom, measure resistance end-to-end. Leave enough wire at the loom to join a replacement wire onto.

Presumably zero /-ish Ohms end-to-end. Try it to find out.
Note, "1" on the multimeter, which it shows most of the time on resistance setting, doesn't mean "one Ohm".

Get yo lazy ass out there. It's not going to fix itself.
Yesterday you were rewarded by unexpectedly finding you had a newish 600cfm 4-barrel carb fitted. See what today brings.

:-)

Cheeky :-D 

Right I have indeed been out and I have a bit of a Theory ;)

I will take out the camera and take some shots and see if you see what I see?

 


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