CrapCarNerd Posted September 26, 2018 Posted September 26, 2018 This is one thats really bugging me!!... Anyone know of any garage(s) called "Southern Cross Garages LTD" in Market Deeping or Potters Bar? I presume they're long gone now and must have been Ford dealers. My 1985 Escort mk3 came with these plates on and apparently the Reg is the Peterborough area so, must have originally come from the Market Deeping Garage... cant find anything about it online, even tried .gov business checks!! Ghost garage!!!
Mrcento Posted September 26, 2018 Posted September 26, 2018 Went out of business around 1991 apparently, opened 1981 https://companycheck.co.uk/company/01556635/SOUTHERN-CROSS-GARAGE-MARKET-DEEPING-LIMITED/companies-house-data
CrapCarNerd Posted September 26, 2018 Posted September 26, 2018 This is one thats really bugging me!!... Anyone know of any garage(s) called "Southern Cross Garages LTD" in Market Deeping or Potters Bar? I presume they're long gone now and must have been Ford dealers. My 1985 Escort mk3 came with these plates on and apparently the Reg is the Peterborough area so, must have originally come from the Market Deeping Garage... cant find anything about it online, even tried .gov business checks!! Ghost garage!!! MKT Deeping Ford.jpg Actully i did just find this on a company check saying it was dissolved... anyway i can figure out the address?
TataBobu Posted September 27, 2018 Posted September 27, 2018 So last year I've bought an used car from UK . Just completed the V5 with the details of the new keeper, and now the thing I have no clue about: if we send the old V5 by post to DVLA, will they send the new one to an address that's outside UK?It is possible to register the car here with the original V5 and a hand-written contract between the registered keeper and the new owner (which I have), but it would be easier with an V5 in the new owner's name.
Guest Hooli Posted September 27, 2018 Posted September 27, 2018 I'm pretty sure you can't register a car with the DVLA outside the UK/Great Britain.
oldcars Posted September 27, 2018 Posted September 27, 2018 With regard to silicone spray would GT85 work or are we talking some type of interior cleaner? It was a Autosmart dash spray i used. HarmonicCheeseburger 1
DodgeRover Posted September 27, 2018 Posted September 27, 2018 So last year I've bought an used car from UK . Just completed the V5 with the details of the new keeper, and now the thing I have no clue about: if we send the old V5 by post to DVLA, will they send the new one to an address that's outside UK?It is possible to register the car here with the original V5 and a hand-written contract between the registered keeper and the new owner (which I have), but it would be easier with an V5 in the new owner's name.It should have been declared exported when it left the UK for good. Dvla will absolutely not put a foreign address or po box as the registered keeper. You will usually need the complete V5 to register it wherever it now is but it's nothing to do with the DVLA anymore.
Wingz123 Posted September 27, 2018 Posted September 27, 2018 So last year I've bought an used car from UK . Just completed the V5 with the details of the new keeper, and now the thing I have no clue about: if we send the old V5 by post to DVLA, will they send the new one to an address that's outside UK?It is possible to register the car here with the original V5 and a hand-written contract between the registered keeper and the new owner (which I have), but it would be easier with an V5 in the new owner's name.Which part of africa did it end up in?
GoGently Posted September 27, 2018 Posted September 27, 2018 Hello Hello Hello Can anyone identity this engine & its age also what model MG car it might have come out off.
wuvvum Posted September 27, 2018 Posted September 27, 2018 CV joints. I have a vague idea how they work in theory, but could do with some practical pointers. Whilst buggering about swapping wishbones on the Audi I managed to pull the driveshaft out of the CV joint. I only discovered this when I started it up and put it in gear and it wouldn't move. The driveshaft wouldn't simply slot back in obvs, that would have been too easy, so I had to peel back the CV boot to see where I needed to go - whereupon I was greeted by a shower of ball bearings. I've managed to get most of them back in, but there are two which wouldn't go in - or at least they would, but then the centre bit of the joint (with the splines for the driveshaft) wouldn't move. So the car is now capable of movement again, but the situation is obviously less than ideal. So my questions are twofold: firstly, what am I doing wrong with regard to the two ball bearings I can't get back in (and also how do I get them back in without all the others falling out again) - I know what it's supposed to look like in theory but with everything covered in grease it's hard to see exactly what's what. Secondly, I appreciate I need to sort it out before I drive any distance, but will I be able to manoeuvre the car around as it is, or will everything fall out again as soon as I apply more than 2° of lock?
dozeydustman Posted September 27, 2018 Posted September 27, 2018 Hello Hello Hello Can anyone identity this engine & its age also what model MG car it might have come out off. 20180927_181947.jpg20180927_181936.jpg20180927_181924.jpg20180927_181916.jpg20180927_181756.jpg 948cc A-series from a spridget? GoGently 1
Guest Hooli Posted September 27, 2018 Posted September 27, 2018 I thought only the 1,275cc had removable tappet covers, but I might be thinking of the A+ series.
Tamworthbay Posted September 27, 2018 Posted September 27, 2018 I thought only the 1,275cc had removable tappet covers, but I might be thinking of the A+ series.Other way around, the 1275 A and A+ didn’t have the removable push rod/ tappet covers to increase strength. Easy way to tell between 998/1098 and 1275s. Squire_Dawson 1
Tamworthbay Posted September 27, 2018 Posted September 27, 2018 948cc A-series from a spridget? or a minor, the Morris cover would suggest a minor but could have been changed.
Guest Hooli Posted September 27, 2018 Posted September 27, 2018 Other way around, the 1275 A and A+ didn’t have the removable push rod/ tappet covers to increase strength. Easy way to tell between 998/1098 and 1275s. Old age + memory = bugger. Ta for the info. Tamworthbay and GoGently 2
Tamworthbay Posted September 27, 2018 Posted September 27, 2018 Old age + memory = bugger. Ta for the info.Weirdly it’s a very common misconception/ urban myth. Apparently they lightened the block to make the 1275 faster and to allow easier servicing, which is utter bollocks as it’s the smaller blocks that have them but I must have heard this a couple of dozen times over the years.
Guest Hooli Posted September 27, 2018 Posted September 27, 2018 In my case it's just poor memory of running a Metro years ago. Tamworthbay 1
Squire_Dawson Posted September 27, 2018 Posted September 27, 2018 there's a new old stock lucas 7" sealed beam unit in one of my boxes of crap in the garage you can have for postage if it's any use to you ? I think I posted it on here before but suprisingly* had no takers If nobody else has asked, please may I have it? The tappet chest covers were always difficult to keep oil tight. The trick is to clean the mating surfaces thoroughly and use the synthetic gaskets. Cork ones are okay but can't be re-used. And many people make the mistake of tightening up the retaining nuts; this distorts (ruins) the gasket and it leaks. Just nip it up until you see it drawing down the cover plate no more. The 'O' rings for the bolts must also be in good condition.
Guest Hooli Posted September 27, 2018 Posted September 27, 2018 Over tightening gaskets etc is the most common mistake I find on cars & bikes I've worked on.
SiC Posted September 27, 2018 Posted September 27, 2018 If nobody else has asked, please may I have it? The tappet chest covers were always difficult to keep oil tight. The trick is to clean the mating surfaces thoroughly and use the synthetic gaskets. Cork ones are okay but can't be re-used. And many people make the mistake of tightening up the retaining nuts; this distorts (ruins) the gasket and it leaks. Just nip it up until you see it drawing down the cover plate no more. The 'O' rings for the bolts must also be in good condition. I did send a PM to gm about it the other day but not had a response
wuvvum Posted September 27, 2018 Posted September 27, 2018 CV joints. I have a vague idea how they work in theory, but could do with some practical pointers. Whilst buggering about swapping wishbones on the Audi I managed to pull the driveshaft out of the CV joint. I only discovered this when I started it up and put it in gear and it wouldn't move. The driveshaft wouldn't simply slot back in obvs, that would have been too easy, so I had to peel back the CV boot to see where I needed to go - whereupon I was greeted by a shower of ball bearings. I've managed to get most of them back in, but there are two which wouldn't go in - or at least they would, but then the centre bit of the joint (with the splines for the driveshaft) wouldn't move. So the car is now capable of movement again, but the situation is obviously less than ideal. So my questions are twofold: firstly, what am I doing wrong with regard to the two ball bearings I can't get back in (and also how do I get them back in without all the others falling out again) - I know what it's supposed to look like in theory but with everything covered in grease it's hard to see exactly what's what. Secondly, I appreciate I need to sort it out before I drive any distance, but will I be able to manoeuvre the car around as it is, or will everything fall out again as soon as I apply more than 2° of lock?Further to the above, should the driveshaft even be able to just pull out of the CV joint like that? Google seems to suggest that there should be some kind of clip holding it in place.
Mrcento Posted September 27, 2018 Posted September 27, 2018 Further to the above, should the driveshaft even be able to just pull out of the CV joint like that? Google seems to suggest that there should be some kind of clip holding it in place. No. There's normally a circlip thing in a groove on the driveshaft that locks it in place onto the inner bearing cage. Without that, on lock and with load, the shaft is likely to come pinging out. warren t claim 1
dozeydustman Posted September 28, 2018 Posted September 28, 2018 or a minor, the Morris cover would suggest a minor but could have been changed. Wasn't MG part of Morris-Wolseley group?
Exiled_Tat_Gatherer Posted September 28, 2018 Posted September 28, 2018 Very late in the day - BUT BRANDS HATCH - WATCHING? - I've driven it before a long way back...... but have never watched a race there. Touring Cars Season ends Sunday - I'm with munchkin, picking up Bramz BMW and seeing London Saturday. Plan is to take minima to his first 'proper' race event Sunday as a surprise on the way back out of the UK...... I know the grandstand will probably be long sold out - so where should I look to get a good view of the racing with the munchkin? Any advice most welcome.......
gm Posted September 28, 2018 Posted September 28, 2018 I did send a PM to gm about it the other day but not had a response sorry, I did reply but the message seems to have vanished - could be down to the crappy phone signal I get at work anyway, I'll dig it out of the garage over the weekend and check it works before getting it in the post for you cheers gm SiC 1
Guest Hooli Posted September 28, 2018 Posted September 28, 2018 I know the grandstand will probably be long sold out - so where should I look to get a good view of the racing with the munchkin? Any advice most welcome....... It's been years (about 35) since I've been but Graham Hill bank was always good. You could see them come down off the first 'straight' then right around the bottom of the bank after Druids & on to the indy circuit back towards the start finish 'straight'.
Tamworthbay Posted September 28, 2018 Posted September 28, 2018 Wasn't MG part of Morris-Wolseley group?MG were always keen to badge anything as MG so can’t imagine it would have smeared under the bonnet of a midget with that cover on. Nothing to say the rocker cover is original though as they fit all sorts.
Christine Posted September 28, 2018 Posted September 28, 2018 If the brake pad wear indicator wire is missing on the pads , and the plug / wire is joined to make the light go out is that an mot fail ? Plenty of meat on the pads visible bub2006 1
Wingz123 Posted September 28, 2018 Posted September 28, 2018 If the brake pad wear indicator wire is missing on the pads , and the plug / wire is joined to make the light go out is that an mot fail ? Plenty of meat on the pads visibleCommon sense would say this is perfectly fine
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