Ask a Shiter

[Mr A Lawrence]

we needed a bonnet on the wife's mgf so got in touch with mgfntfspares in glossop which was a day out road trip.

 

took me spanners and changed the bonnet there and left him the old one, bought some other bits while we were there and drove home.

 

way cheaper than risking it with a courier and a good day out too.

 

if thats an option then do that.

[DodgeRover]

My brother has a 2007 Ford C-Max 2.0 Auto, and the auto box is shifting really jerkily. It's been like it a while apparently, but yesterday when we were driving over to a mountain bike group ride together it flashed up "Transmission Failure" on the digital dash display.

 

To cut a long story short the original gearbox shat itself a couple of years after he bought it, apparently due to a known fault with them (it's a Ford 4F27E). He had a replacement fitted by a specialist at a cost of over a grand, which apparently had uprated bits in it to cure the original weakness. I had thought that the new box was only about 20-30,000 miles old, but he says in fact it was a lot longer ago than I remembered it and it's done nearer 60,000 miles.

 

So I'm thinking a fluid change is probably overdue. Googling reveals a guy who's done it to a Mazda 6; he went to the bother of removing the sump and changing the filter. Trouble is my bro was planning a trip to Wales at the weekend for more MTB-ing and so we're a bit short of time. I'm wondering if I could stick my Pela in the filler hole and suck the old oil out, and put a load of new fluid in? Clearly a complete change with a new filter, cleaning all the shit out of the sump etc. would be better, but a slapdash job might improve things in the short term till he can get the job done properly?

 

When we drove home the transmission warning message was gone, but the engine management light came on. I'm going to stick my cheapo bluetooth OBD reader on it later today just to see what that's about, is it likely to tell me what's upsetting the transmission at the same time- I've used Torque on my Android phone for OBD reading up till now but could try something else?

Is there any fluid left in the box? What you suggest would be better than nothing - is there a critical fluid you need to use for that particular box?

[Rave]

Is there any fluid left in the box? What you suggest would be better than nothing - is there a critical fluid you need to use for that particular box?

 

I've not checked, I'm off to have a look at it in a minute. It could be low but as an ignoramus I thought it would be unusual for an autobox to lose fluid?

 

What fluid to use was going to be my next question. As usual there's conflicting advice; some say Mercon V, I found a ford PDF that says Mercon LV; I then read that that PDF is known to be incorrect. This stuff looks like it ought to do the job:

 

https://www.granvilleoil.com/prodInfo?pID=390

 

The wikipedia page for the box says to use a type of Mazda oil:

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_4F27E_transmission

[gm]

Does anyone know a cheap way of getting a bonnet delivered from one end of the country to another?

Tried Shiply and paisley freight, but both quoting over £120. Alternatively, do we recon a bonnet would fit in a Audi A6 saloon?

What you need is a small impractical two seater

 

[sierraman]

Doubt the cheap OBD reader will read and clear transmission faults. You might need Forscan for that.

[The Moog]

What you need is a small impractical two seater

 

IMG_1489.JPG

Am borrowing this picture to show Missus Moog that we have effectively two estate cars - therefore one should be replaced by  

[gm]

Small and practical is the way to go

 

 

or if she's still not convinced

 

[dozeydustman]

Sorry if asked before. Looking to insure stepdaughter on Mrs D's corolla when we move house in a couple of weeks. She's still on a provisional, but we've been unable to find a sensible quote under £900 for our new place.

 

Any recommendations? Done the usual meerkats and silly opera singer sites &c, many won't even quote

[Rave]

Update on my brother's gearbox: I stuck the OBD reader in and after the usual faff of getting it to talk to my phone, it spat out one fault code, P0751.

 

https://www.engine-codes.com/p0751.html

 

Actually found that page after I'd started typing the reply, it does seem to think that crap fluid could cause the solenoid to malfunction. However, I pulled the gearbox dipstick out and the fluid looks completely clean, it's an obvious pinky colour like it should be.

 

I've suggested he take it to an auto gearbox specialist, though if he doesn't fancy that for some reason I guess I could get it up in the air and pull the gearbox sump off...

[Dead_E23]

Returning to the subject of Land Rover tyres: like Landy Mann, I also run Avon Rangemasters on my 110 and find them generally quite acceptable.  (Unless it's icy, in which case they become very unacceptable indeed).

 

Most importantly, they used to be a very economical choice because they last forever and there were usually lots on offer at shows like the Sodbury Sortout, where I used to budget about £120 for a set of newish takeoffs.   However, I'd imagine that source has pretty much dried up now as the factory stopped fitting them several years before Defender production ended.

 

Anyway, I've heard good things about the Insa Turbo Ranger.  They're remoulds, but I once had a similar set of Colway AT remoulds in the same tread pattern (a rip-off of the BF Goodrich All-Terrain) and they worked very well indeed.

[catsinthewelder]

Where is the bonnet going?  It's Shitefest next month which is generally an opportunity for various things to travel round the country for free.  A bonnet might be tricky but you never know your luck.

[Petrolize]

Hi Catsinthewelder, thank you for trying to help, Dorset to Inverness but anywhere in Scotland should be ok

[Guest Hooli]

 Alternatively, do we recon a bonnet would fit in a Audi A6 saloon?

 

It will if you fold it in half...

 

The shitefest idea is probably a better one though.

[catsinthewelder]

My 405 estate has roofbars and I'm currently planning on heading up to Inverness straight after Shitefest.

 

Depending on where we dock and what we are driving back from BG I could possibly do the whole thing but I won't know the answers to that until we A, buy something and B, start trying to get a ferry ticket.  I'm based in Shropshire so Dorset would be a big diversion from Dover

 

Can a Dorset based shitter collect it and store until someone is passing?

[Petrolize]

This would be great if it could happen! The bonnet is currently at a scrapyard in Pilsdon

[Rusty_Rocket]

Any A series botherers on here?

 

Further to my news 24 post, the mini was running fine yesterday and this morning, however half way into my journey to work the clutch pedal went rock hard and now wont actuate the clutch. I've been and had a look at lunch, all pivots seem intact, I can move the slave cyl in and it tries to actuate the clutch arm, but it seems to be something inside the clutch cover that is preventing it from moving. I cant operate the arm any more than the slave tries to with a bar. Also, the slave seems to be creeping outwards a bit now.

 

Engine is a 1430, straight cut box, remote change, pre verto clutch

 

Sounds like a big orange taxi home, clutch release bearing or diaphragm issue? or dodgy slave?

 

Cheers Shiters!

 

Sounds like the 'wok' will have to come off so you can have a look at the clutch.  It's a pain to get at in the car but perfectly do-able.  You may be swearing at the lower bolts under the engine mount though!

Hopefully there's a problem with the plunger or bearing, as you say.  Anything else and the flywheel needs to come off which, as I'm sure you know is a job that is a few lines of text on paper... and potentially week's of work if the flywheel taper won't release 

I hope you have a good puller in that case!

[Isaac Hunt]

we needed a bonnet on the wife's mgf so got in touch with mgfntfspares in glossop which was a day out road trip.

 

took me spanners and changed the bonnet there and left him the old one, bought some other bits while we were there and drove home.

 

way cheaper than risking it with a courier and a good day out too.

 

if thats an option then do that.

Years ago, a mate of mine took the bent bonnet of his Cortina and drove across town to the scrapyard, bolted a new bonnet on and drove home. A bit avant garde to do that these days but you could fabricate a bonnet out of hardboard and gaffer tape, paint it black and go for it. Rip it off when you get to destination and bolt on the bonnet. I wouldn't trust a bonnet to the likes of 'Damaged Held Lost'. I squeezed a Fiesta bonnet in a Rover 25 once, fitted in through the hatch and slid down behind the seats.

[Pillock]

Do I recall correctly that there's a Shiter out there somewhere who can do HPI checks for free/cheaps?

Just need to check a car is clear of finance.....

[Mike D]

Sounds like the 'wok' will have to come off so you can have a look at the clutch.  It's a pain to get at in the car but perfectly do-able.  You may be swearing at the lower bolts under the engine mount though!

Hopefully there's a problem with the plunger or bearing, as you say.  Anything else and the flywheel needs to come off which, as I'm sure you know is a job that is a few lines of text on paper... and potentially week's of work if the flywheel taper won't release 

I hope you have a good puller in that case!

I had a go at this tonight, wok off, much swearing and prying / jacking for those bastard lower bolts - I might chop the wok a bit when I fully get it back together to just slot over the bolts so I don't have to fully remove them next time (which I'm sure there will be) Anyway, nowt looked amiss, removed the diaphragm, pressure plate became 'loose' as it does, so it's not that mechanically stopping anything, so I bolted the diaphragm back on, reset the clutch arm adjusting nuts on the wok as they were loose when I checked it the other day after the FTP, however the adjusting in the car park didn't seem to make any difference.

 

Anyway, lobbed it all temporarily back together to check it, and all is fine! I hope it was just the lock nuts and not something weird that is going to reappear once it's all back together again

[Crispian_J_Hotson]

What's going on with E36 tourings? I've been on to look for some bits and the car prices are way up. Only a few months ago there were shitters for a few hundred and now there are models on there going for way over a bag? 

[Talbot]

Does anyone know a cheap way of getting a bonnet delivered from one end of the country to another?

Tried Shiply and paisley freight, but both quoting over £120. Alternatively, do we recon a bonnet would fit in a Audi A6 saloon?

A colleague of mine is driving from the south coast (chichester area) to Inverness next week.

 

if it can be got to somewhere near Portsmouth/hayling/chichester/bognor etc. it can get to inverness for free.

[meggersdog]

Suggest me up for wheels / tyres for land rover 88" ?

 

I have a set of LWB wheels (5.5" wide?), and a set of disco 1 steel wheels (wider?). My daily disco 2 has 235/70/16 AT's that are looking a bit tired but still have plenty of tread. Can / should I bung these on the series and buy new AT's for disco 2?

 

I used to run 205/16 shonky remoulds, but I'm too old for ditch finding now.

 

My Discovery 1 is running insa turbo sahara 205's which do roar a bit on road but towed a few people out of that white fluffy stuff that came out of the sky a month ago and are great at pay and play sites.

There is a series 11a coming in on Monday. It's got a 200tdi engine , disc front brakes and on parabolic springs. I will ask the owner what tyres he is running.

 

 

Oh as for the Peugeot 205 (Cros) it is no cat test registered before 1st August 1992. 

[Craig the Princess]

Does anyone have any advice for spray painting a car roof, everything I've done so far (badly) has been vertical rather than horizontal but I've no way of turning the car.

[meggersdog]

^^^^ can you still get those vinyl roof kits that used to be advertised in exchange & mart ?

[inconsistant]

I'm back with a more specific starting problem:

 

Battery fully charged, shows 13v on multimeter. 

Turn key in ignition, get dash lights and voltmeter gives a reading.

Turn key to start car and hear 3 rapid clicks and car electrics go dead, no dash lights or anything.

Try to start again and nothing, no noise, no lights or dials. Battery tested and still reads 13v.

Any ideas please?

 

 

Yes,

 

98% chance the battery is no good and does not have enough electrons to turn the engine over or a 2% chance of having a really crap/dirty connection somewhere.

 

So "borrow" a good battery inna car and put some jumpleads to your battery then try starting,   if yours then wangs over and starts it 98% a crap battery with no enough working capacity (billions of available electrons) left in it.

 

For further analysis please post the following.

Measure your battery with no engine running (should be 13.6v+)

your battery with no engine running but headlight on full beam (or other electrics running).

your battery with the other car + jumpleads

your car with your engine running and no jump leads

 

 

Agreed, these were the exact systems I experienced with a bollocksed battery.

 

It took a while but now I've fixed it I thought it would be nice to report back on what it was. This is possibly the down side of all car questions being put into the SQA thread rather than allowing separate threads, as the knowledge gets lost and for beginners like me it's harder to keep track of all  suggestions and answers... it took me a while to find where I'd asked the questions to post this.

 

Anyway, after charging the battery, going over the block to body and body to battery earth leads which were all clean and tight, checking the wiring loom down to the starter and alternator looking for bad connections or flakey insulation which might be shorting out I gave up. Someone elsewhere suggested to try a jump lead from the block to the -ve battery terminal and it started first turn of the key. So I knew the problem was between the block and the -ve terminal, but I'd checked the earth straps and they were fine. Then it started ok without the jump lead, then it did the clicking again. Much confusion.

 

Anyway, to cut a long drawn out afternoon of frustration and ignorance short, it dawned on me that the only thing it could possibly be was the battery isolator knob I had fitted to the -ve terminal. I hadn't even thought that it could be the problem but I unwound the knob and it was really tarnished and there were scorch marks all over it. 

 

 

Cleaned up and lubed and the car now starts! Glad not a bollocksed battery. Thanks all for the help and suggestions, you've made an enthusiastic but out of his depth mechanical fool very happy.

[jonny69]

I'm thinking of changing the seals in the calipers on my Anglia. I last changed them in 2000/2001 or something, but it was a long time ago and I'm getting nervous and want to err on the safe side. Bear in mind the calipers are 40 years old and have their original pistons. Does one normally change the pistons as well, or just clean them up and re-use, with a quick lap with very fine wet and dry if they need it? Or am I worrying about nothing?

[dozeydustman]

I'm thinking of changing the seals in the calipers on my Anglia. I last changed them in 2000/2001 or something, but it was a long time ago and I'm getting nervous and want to err on the safe side. Bear in mind the calipers are 40 years old and have their original pistons. Does one normally change the pistons as well, or just clean them up and re-use, with a quick lap with very fine wet and dry if they need it? Or am I worrying about nothing?

 

Unless they've started leaking or sticking I think you'll be ok for a few more years. I think you should be ok to wipe the pistons down with a lint-free cloth and some brake cleaner spray, if there is any light rusting or marks from sticking some v. fine emery or wire wool will be fine. If really pitted or corroded then change them.

[jonny69]

Right on cue on the way home, the passenger side caliper stuck on and I had to pull over. I called the recovery because it was properly stuck on, but luckily it seemed to free off when it cooled down. I managed to limp it home the last 20 miles but it looks like it’ll need attention before I drive it again.

 

Quite annoying since I did some routine rear brake maintenance in the work car park at lunch time.

[dozeydustman]

17+ years is a good life for a caliper! Hopefully it'll just be a build up of crud round the piston and not corrosion.

[MorrisItalSLX]

How hard would it be to locate/purchase/transport a Citroen XM headlight and grille to Australia from the UK or Europe?