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Posted

What's the best stuff to bond a rubber spoiler to bodywork?

Posted
What's the best stuff to bond a rubber spoiler to bodywork?

 

Have you tried sperm?

Posted

Before I just bin them, does anyone want a box of about 100 2BAx7/8" countersunk galvanised slotted screws? They have been in my cupboard far too long and deserve a change of scenery.

Posted
What's the best stuff to bond a rubber spoiler to bodywork?

 

Have you tried weetabix?

 

EFA

Posted
What's the best stuff to bond a rubber spoiler to bodywork?

 

by DSdriver » Sat Mar 17, 2012 3:49 pm

 

Before I just bin them, does anyone want a box of about 100 2BAx7/8" countersunk galvanised slotted screws? They have been in my cupboard far too long and deserve a change of scenery.

 

 

You two need to swap details.

Posted
What's the best stuff to bond a rubber spoiler to bodywork?

 

by DSdriver » Sat Mar 17, 2012 3:49 pm

 

Before I just bin them, does anyone want a box of about 100 2BAx7/8" countersunk galvanised slotted screws? They have been in my cupboard far too long and deserve a change of scenery.

 

 

You two need to swap details.

:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

Posted

OK, help and advice time please.

 

In previous years I have run my T2 as a daily all year round & its been doing IRO 10,000 miles pa

This winter, in deference to having spent a colossal amount of money on it (again), I SORN'd it from the end of October.

It's been fired up & driven about the Cul de Sac every couple of weeks & there's a comedy solar trickle charger connected to the leisure battery.

In the next couple of weeks I get to MOT it, sort a couple of minor irritations out, change the oil ready for our first holiday of the year in May.

 

My question is; As it's only done 2,000 miles in the last year, should I carry out a full service before a long drive

or just change the oil & service it when I get back?

Posted

Do it before you go. You're going to service it anyhow and you're going to be a bit pissed off if something goes wrong you'd have spotted on a service.

Posted

It's a VW T2, no matter what you do on the service, something completely random will go wrong at some point in the journey.

Posted

Did anyone buy the Ultimate Speed battery charger from Lidl?

 

I have a problem charging a 12 volt battery which is currently at 6.5v as it just tries to keep switiching to the 6v setting and then saying it is fully charged. If I do manage to get it to start trickle pulse charging it shuts off after 5 mins because it is below 7.5v.

 

I have contacted the company today and they say that a battery has to be above 7.5v to be charged, even though in the blurb at the beginning they state it can recharge fully disharged batteries.

 

What an absolute load of old tosh! Has anyone heard of battery chargers like this before?

Posted

Yeah, the "intelligent" chargers are often a fuppin nightmare when operating outside "normal" situations - The "intelligent" functions usually aren't that smart.

 

If you're stuck, connect the battery with some jump leads to a running car and it'll be up above 7.5v in a couple of minutes, or put a fully charged 12v battery in parallel with it while it's on the charger for half an hour, so the charger will output 13.xV for long enough to bring the battery above 8 or 9v.

Posted

Cheers, yeah I will try summat like that. I am still astounded though that I have bought a battery charger which wont charge flat batteries. Honestly you couldn't make it up!

Posted
What's the best stuff to bond a rubber spoiler to bodywork?

 

by DSdriver » Sat Mar 17, 2012 3:49 pm

 

Before I just bin them, does anyone want a box of about 100 2BAx7/8" countersunk galvanised slotted screws? They have been in my cupboard far too long and deserve a change of scenery.

 

 

You two need to swap details.

:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

 

100 screws might be overdoing it.......

 

 

Anyway, I'm trying to P38 the rust out of my driver's door. Although it's hard to see in the pictures, can anyone explain why I keep getting this pitting effect?

 

IMAG0774.jpg

 

IMAG0773.jpg

Posted

Obv. answer is it needs plenty more work (filling and rubbing) but when done get some clean thinners on a rag and wipe it down before you spray it again.

Posted

Whats the difference between a MimiMoke and this; a Scamp?

$(KGrHqNHJCME9BoirMIQBPUTYo6CWw~~60_12.JPG

Was it a kit-car copy?

Posted

Here's a question, I've just bought a set of VW alloys wheels for the wifes Golf to replace the steel originals (plus the tires needed replacing).

 

Will i have to buy different wheel bolts or can i use the ones from the steel wheels? I know you change them on a Ford, I've guessing it's the same for a VW?.

Posted

Very much depends on the car. The Maverick has slightly different nuts for alloy/steel wheels.

Posted

Mk3 Golf if it makes any differents, I imagine the collars will be different on the bolts? Sounds like i'm going to have to give the scrappy a call in the morning.

Posted

Best to check if the alloys have countersinks like the steel wheels.

Posted
Probably the easiest way to do it...

 

Thanks for the link Pete, I've just ordered a set of them instead, Saves pissing around at the scrappy and saving about £5.

 

The Golf needed 3 new rubber boots which are 185/60/14, I suspect I'd end up paying at least £100 for 3 new tires so I've just bought a set of proper Golf Cabriolet alloys from a bloke around the corner on ebay with 4 good tyres for £100, Can't go wrong for that.

Posted
Probably the easiest way to do it...

 

Thanks for the link Pete, I've just ordered a set of them instead, Saves pissing around at the scrappy and saving about £5.

 

Just check they're the correct ones for a Mk3 Flog. I'm sure they'll be able to sort 'em for ya.

Posted
Just check they're the correct ones for a Mk3 Flog. I'm sure they'll be able to sort 'em for ya.

 

You know what, I'm a right nobber at times, Those are for a Mk5 , The Mk3 are different, and cheaper else where on ebay :roll:

 

Serves me right for not paying attention, I've had to email the seller to see if they will swap them...

Posted

What's the best way to prevent drive-on car ramps from sliding forwards when an attempt is made to drive a car onto them?

Posted
What's the best way to prevent drive-on car ramps from sliding forwards when an attempt is made to drive a car onto them?

 

Piece of old carpet looped around the bottom two "rungs" .. if that makes sence

Always found that the above trick has worked.

 

edit:

Found a more human way of explaining it ...

 

Two bits of carpet or rubber mat, that the car wheels and the ramps are on, so the wheels lock the carpet in place until you get on the ramp, then the weight of the car pushes the ramp down into the mat and stop them sliding.

Posted

^

I had an idea that was the best method - many thanks for confirming :)

 

Now, to find some manky old carpet that I can chop into strips ;)

Posted

Guerilla polishing.

 

Does anyone else get the urge when they see a car with flat and faded paint to t-cut and polish just one patch. Just to give the owner a benchmark?

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