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Posted

So at the risk of sounding gossipy....

 

What happened to chompy snake? Did I miss something while I was away?

 

paging vulgalour, vulgalour to the beige gossip phone...

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Posted

What's the story with Duracell car batteries? Are they actually made by Duracell or are they something else rebranded?  They seem quite expensive, are they any good?

 

In general I assume that something branded with a name that's known for something else will be rubbish and I couldn't bring myself to put a giant PP3 in the car, so I didn't buy one.

 

Also- AA batteries, are they rebranded Yuasa?

Posted

What's the story with Duracell car batteries? Are they actually made by Duracell or are they something else rebranded? They seem quite expensive, are they any good?

 

In general I assume that something branded with a name that's known for something else will be rubbish and I couldn't bring myself to put a giant PP3 in the car, so I didn't buy one.

 

Also- AA batteries, are they rebranded Yuasa?

They're made by Banner who are a decent manufacturer. 5 year warranty too

Posted

I bought a Lion battery other week. £27 for Focus with a 3 year guarantee!

Insane cheap - I always fit Lion batteries but you might need that warranty.

Posted

Whoever came up with Lion brand lead-acid batteries deserves an award for confusing people.

Posted

Because you are describing a remotely actuated intake valve?

Posted

I insured my shite transit yesterday at 8pm, hoping to use it today. Askmid says it's still uninsured. The policy says it start time was yesterday at 8, so am I insured or not?

Is askmid some kind of independent check for punters or is it the same database police and dvla use? I haven't tried taxing it yet as the v5 is in the van in the shed.

Posted

if youve got the polciy saying insured then carry it with you until the database updates , ours autorenewd the other week with same company yet dropped off the database for about 3 days 

 

if theyre going to run these things i wish theyd do it right

Posted

Because you are describing a remotely actuated intake valve?

 

I suppose I am. I worded that badly.

 

What meant was why isn't this used of valves mechanically run off a camshaft? Surely it pinches less power off the engine and allows infinite adjustment, ergo better economy, power and that? 

Posted

When I switch on the ignition (Saab 900 TURBO) there's a quiet buzz/humm/whirr from the rear of the car.

 

What is this?  Is it the fuel pump priming or something?

 

I think I may have stumbled across the cause of a non-starting issue I've been having, as sometimes I don't hear the noise.

 

What would cause this?  Fuel pump relay, the pump itself, or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Posted

Yes.

 

Thanks.  

 

The headlight relay also plays up intermittently.  And the hrw doesn't work (could be the relay...)

 

Would multiple relay shenanigans point to a more deep seated issue or do I just need to go out and purchase all teh relayz>?

Posted

have you gone round the basics cleaning battery terminals and all earth points etc?

Posted

I think it's common for the headlamp relays to bugger up, especially if somebody has used 100W bulbs in the past.

Posted

I suppose I am. I worded that badly.

 

What meant was why isn't this used of valves mechanically run off a camshaft? Surely it pinches less power off the engine and allows infinite adjustment, ergo better economy, power and that? 

 

Cost. Longevity related to cost.

Posted

Lights!

I've bought a set of probably genuine-ish Hella Comet foglights from India via eBay, a set of 4 because it was only marginally more expensive than a set of two. As far as I can make out from the lighting regs you can only have one pair of fogs, is that right? And it's also correct that any lamp that isn't connected/is covered doesn't count as a light?

Given they'd mostly be for show anyway (to have HELLA written as many times as possible on the front of the car) would it suffice to have each pair switched independently and only use the outer ones and keep the inner ones off and covered as show/off road? If not or if it'll look pants I'll likely offer the second pair for sale on here.

 

Similarly, a pair or two of rally Spotlights infront of the grille would be alright if in normal use they're either off or only come on with the main beam? I'm probably less likely to do this than the fogs, but maybe...

Posted

I have a Plug 305 van, and I'm modifying things like suspension, brakes and stuff. My ( possibly ) stupid question is, will vented discs  fit with the calipers that are standard ones ? The 305 gtx had vented discs. Is the caliper the same ?

Posted

I have a Plug 305 van, and I'm modifying things like suspension, brakes and stuff. My ( possibly ) stupid question is, will vented discs  fit with the calipers that are standard ones ? The 305 gtx had vented discs. Is the caliper the same ?

 

AFAIK 'single' Non Vented discs have about Approx 20MM diff in thickness to Vented... and so, Calipers are not cross compatible.

 

TS

Posted

I have a Plug 305 van, and I'm modifying things like suspension, brakes and stuff. My ( possibly ) stupid question is, will vented discs  fit with the calipers that are standard ones ? The 305 gtx had vented discs. Is the caliper the same ?

What calipers do the 305's use? The Bendix calipers used on 205/309's etc are the same I believe for vented and non-vented disks, it's just the pad carrier that differs, whereas the Girling calipers are a completely different design for vented and non-vented applications.

Posted

2004 Fiat Idea belonging to a colleague has lost its power steering and it is now easier to steer a supertanker down a B-road than the Fiat. The Internet suggests it is based on a Mk2 Punto and shares the punto electric power steering rather than hydraulic. It also suggests that the cause of the woe is highly likely to be due to excessive use of the 'city' button overloading and burning out the EPS motor.

 

What is less clear is whather I can buy just the motor, or if it needs the ECU that goes with it too. Does anyone know? replacement of the motor looks relatively straightforward, and I suspect that the ECU wouldn't be too hard to do at the same time, but if I can get away with just the motor then I'll just do that.

 

He has been quoted £1200 for a complete replacement of the motor, column, ECU and labour which seems overly salty to me. He has had the fault code scanned and cleared which made it go away for an hour or so but its back. I have asked him to get me the code so I can check I am indeed replacing the right bit - it could also be either the torque sensor or speedo sensor having failed which is a bit more involved, but it seems motors burning out is the second most common cause of this problem, after weak batteries. The battery was replaced about 6 months ago so provisionally ruled out. I have a spare, known good, battery which I can swap in to check.

Posted

I suppose I am. I worded that badly.

 

What meant was why isn't this used of valves mechanically run off a camshaft? Surely it pinches less power off the engine and allows infinite adjustment, ergo better economy, power and that? 

 

Electrical injection for the air would use power from the engine too, just via the alternator.

Besides, when you compress air it gets hot & the best thing to feed an engine is cold air because it's denser.

Posted

2004 Fiat Idea belonging to a colleague has lost its power steering and it is now easier to steer a supertanker down a B-road than the Fiat. The Internet suggests it is based on a Mk2 Punto and shares the punto electric power steering rather than hydraulic. It also suggests that the cause of the woe is highly likely to be due to excessive use of the 'city' button overloading and burning out the EPS motor.

 

What is less clear is whather I can buy just the motor, or if it needs the ECU that goes with it too. Does anyone know? replacement of the motor looks relatively straightforward, and I suspect that the ECU wouldn't be too hard to do at the same time, but if I can get away with just the motor then I'll just do that.

 

He has been quoted £1200 for a complete replacement of the motor, column, ECU and labour which seems overly salty to me. He has had the fault code scanned and cleared which made it go away for an hour or so but its back. I have asked him to get me the code so I can check I am indeed replacing the right bit - it could also be either the torque sensor or speedo sensor having failed which is a bit more involved, but it seems motors burning out is the second most common cause of this problem, after weak batteries. The battery was replaced about 6 months ago so provisionally ruled out. I have a spare, known good, battery which I can swap in to check.

Idea (350) shares the EPAS from a 192 Stilo, not a Mk2 Punto. It is possible to rebuild the system with another motor, but you will need to unscrew the tin lid off the ECU and de-solder (and re-solder with the new motor) the 3x large power connections and 8x small signal connections.

 

If you use a secondhand Stilo system, check the height of the legs connecting the 'tortoise-shell' large bracket to the EPAS Gearbox housing. If they are different use the Idea's original bracket on the Stilo powerhead - the legs came in 2 heights for Stilos, 3dr and 5dr (the 3dr having a more rakish angle to the handwheel) - can't remember which one was used in the Idea but it's probably the 5dr.

 

I'm not even sure that the software and tune in a different system will be the same as the one in the Idea - this is where changing the motor only would be a winner as you keep the original ECU (which is a single large flat PCB under the tin lid on these units).

Posted

 

He has been quoted £1200 for a complete replacement of the motor, column, ECU and labour

 

There are shonky outfits offering conversions with shitty Corsa electric columns for a third of that figure, and on a vehicle which was built with EPS might not be quite the usual dodgy cut and shut deathtrap. 

Posted

Idea (350) shares the EPAS from a 192 Stilo, not a Mk2 Punto. It is possible to rebuild the system with another motor, but you will need to unscrew the tin lid off the ECU and de-solder (and re-solder with the new motor) the 3x large power connections and 8x small signal connections.

 

If you use a secondhand Stilo system, check the height of the legs connecting the 'tortoise-shell' large bracket to the EPAS Gearbox housing. If they are different use the Idea's original bracket on the Stilo powerhead - the legs came in 2 heights for Stilos, 3dr and 5dr (the 3dr having a more rakish angle to the handwheel) - can't remember which one was used in the Idea but it's probably the 5dr.

 

I'm not even sure that the software and tune in a different system will be the same as the one in the Idea - this is where changing the motor only would be a winner as you keep the original ECU (which is a single large flat PCB under the tin lid on these units).

 

Ok, so just to make sure I understand correctly, replacing JUST the motor is viable, provided I fit a compatible replacement? So if I pull the fusebox cover off I should be able to see the end of the motor, grab the part number, get a secondhand one and swap it over, winning at life?

Posted

Any recommendations for window sealant that won't shrink? The Scimitar's rear window is in an aluminium frame and is leaking rain where the silicone I put in 3 months ago has shrunk away.

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