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Posted

Have I asked about ACF50 on here before? If not I will. If I have already I won't obviously....

Posted

on the topic of car batteries, what simple tests can I do to check the condition of mine ? the aldi went flat over a few days when I was away last week. I jump started it and it hasn't let me down since but cranking is sometimes slow.

 

voltage is around 12v with engine off, around 14v when running.

Posted

Predictably, Clarkson doesn't like them.

 

 

If there was ever any doubt that Cockson is a knacker... proof right there.

Posted

In his review of the very early Mira, he loved it (the car is identical).

Does he not know it's a budget car?

Posted

Pretty sure this is a stupid question:

 

I need to change my oil filter, but not the oil. Do I have to drain the oil first or can I change the filter with oil still in the engine? (Sorry)

Posted

Drain the oil first ... but seriously, change the oil at the same time.

Posted

Yeah, I know on here we're the champions of frugal motoring but..... why just the filter? 

 

If you really want to, it depends on what type of filter surely? If it's a drop-it-in-a-housing-near-the-top-of-the-engine type (sorry, I bet they have a proper name and everything) then it's above sump level, and it'll be fine. If it's a spin-on one lower down, expect Exxon Valdez all over your driveway.

Posted

I changed the oil 200 miles ago after well documented HGF episode but left the old filter in to catch any shite, with the aim of changing it shortly after. So the oil is 200 miles fresh, but I still need to put the new filter in.

 

I kind of assumed I'd have to drain the oil, but wanted to check that's the case.

Posted

I've only ever removed the filter after draining the oil, that's certainly what I did on the 924.

 

Another vote for putting new oil in, it makes you feel like a real man.

Posted

It won't make any difference whether you drain the oil or not, exactly the same amount will spill out of the filter either way.

Posted

whatever side of the motor the filter is on, roll the car onto the opposite side. This way, the filter will be uppermost and oil loss will be minimal.

 

see my website for sales of isopon, wet'n;dry paper, masking tape & Porsche Ice white rattle cans

  • Like 4
Posted

Next job of the day is helping a mate change the discs and pads on his 2010 octavia.

 

Will it have any special steps being a modern and a vag?

 

Can we bleed each caliper in turn and only have one wheel off at a time, or do we need to go round the whole car at the end and bleed them all? Only ever done 2 wheels at a time with brake stuff...

Posted

You shouldn't have to bleed anything if you are only doing disks and pads. Take the master cylinder top off and push the caliper pistons back with grips/g-clamp or whatever you have. You don't need to disconnect them to do this.

Posted

Next job of the day is helping a mate change the discs and pads on his 2010 octavia.

 

Will it have any special steps being a modern and a vag?

 

Can we bleed each caliper in turn and only have one wheel off at a time, or do we need to go round the whole car at the end and bleed them all? Only ever done 2 wheels at a time with brake stuff...

If you're changing the pads you don't need to bleed the brakes. You'll need a set of Allen keys though. If it's the front wheels it's easier if the wheel you're doing is on full lock, as the callipers will be easier to work on. So...

1/ Put wheels on full lock to the side you're starting with.

2/ Loosen wheel nuts.

3/ Jack up car & secure with axle stands.

4/ Remove wheel.

5/ Open bonnet & remove brake fluid reservoir top.

6/ Using an old screwdriver of a big set of pliers g-e-n-t-l-y pull the old pads apart to the maximum.

7/ Remove the rubber plug from the lower calliper bolt & undo the bolt.

8/ Loosen but don't completely undo the top bolt in the same way. 

9/ Swing the calliper up out of the way.

10/Remove old pads, put new ones in & cover the backs with Copperslip.

11/Swing the calliper back (you may have to squeeze the calliper piston a bit more to open it up)

12/Do up the bolts top & bottom & replace the rubber plugs.

13/Put the wheel back on, lower the car & gently push the brake pedal to locate the pads.

14/Repeat for the other side in exactly the same way except for putting the top on the brake fluid reservoir at the end of everything.

 

Hope it helps! I've done loads of them!

  • Like 2
Posted

And keep an eye on the master cylinder fluid level if the pads and discs are thin and the fluid has been topped up you may well have to use a new clean cloth or sponge to remove some of the fluid to avoid it pissing out everywhere when you wind the calipers back....... nothing worse than brake fluid for stripping the paint off everything it touches....

Posted

Ace, thanks chaps. Seems fairly straightforward then!

 

When the flange finally gets lunch made we can crack on!

 

Mate just had a good idea re the brake fluid issue, use one of evas old neurofen syringes!

Posted

And keep an eye on the master cylinder fluid level if the pads and discs are thin and the fluid has been topped up you may well have to use a new clean cloth or sponge to remove some of the fluid to avoid it pissing out everywhere when you wind the calipers back....... nothing worse than brake fluid for stripping the paint off everything it touches....

/\/\/\ As he says! That's why I do one side & pressurise the brakes, so that the level is lowered before the second side is done. Agreed, brake fluid's nasty stuff on paint!

Posted

I've been helping a friend sort out his new house & tried to clean some UPVC window frames & in particular a blanked off door. Nothing seems to get the plastic clean, including Cif, it stays looking greyish & horrible. My house has all original sash windows in wood so I have no experience of this, can anyone tell me what will work?

Posted

With regard to the pad change I always open the bleed nipple then push the pads back closing the nipple with pressure still on the piston. Master cylinders aren't what they used to be and it is very easy to flip the seals pushing caliper pistons back and buggering the cylinder.

  • Like 1
Posted

I've been helping a friend sort out his new house & tried to clean some UPVC window frames & in particular a blanked off door. Nothing seems to get the plastic clean, including Cif, it stays looking greyish & horrible. My house has all original sash windows in wood so I have no experience of this, can anyone tell me what will work?

 

Traffic Film Remover works a treat.

Posted

One for the bus drivers mainly, but everyone feel free to jump in.

 

Was at an event today, and 1 group turned up in a Premiere. Coach turned round, and I noticed that the reverse lights weren't on when it was clearly going backwards.

 

So being the thoughtful person that I am about an hour or so later whilst the drive was heating some water up for a tea on his portable stove (probably a fatal mistake!) I let him know about the lights not being on and he told me that it wasn't a legal requirement to have them working? That doesn't sound right, surely?

Posted

Ford focus knowledge please. Came to a corner tonight,slowed down and went round corner. Soon as I exited the bend the abs and traction control light came on. Pulled up and turned car off and restarted. Lights went out but as soon as I pressed brake pedal the abs kicked in. Then lights came back on again and won't go out. Just been under with torch and can't see no loose connections etc. Thanks

Posted

Check the rings the sensor picks up from on the driveshaft - they sometimes crack and cause wierd traction/ABS issues.

Posted

Ok thanks. Confusing how it went all of a sudden with no previous issues.

Posted

I've been helping a friend sort out his new house & tried to clean some UPVC window frames & in particular a blanked off door. Nothing seems to get the plastic clean, including Cif, it stays looking greyish & horrible. My house has all original sash windows in wood so I have no experience of this, can anyone tell me what will work?

 

Several companies do upvc cleaners I think the one I have is made by HG cost about a £5 a bottle iirc. works a treat....

  • Like 1
Posted

Doing some battery maintenance on the P6B yesterday, and found amongst other little things, that I needed to tighten up the fan belt.

 

This made me wonder - on modern cars, where you supposedly don't need to perform any underbonnet maintenance, how do they manage this? Do modern fan belts have an automatic tensioner, like a cam belt?

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