The Moog Posted April 30, 2014 Posted April 30, 2014 How do i remove the handbrake cable from the caliper on the xsara? It seems to have a plastic insert stopping it being pulled straight out Caliper is borked and getting remanufactured one for £58 quid. Edit: fixed, it is push fit but was tighter than a really tight thing.
DeeJay Posted April 30, 2014 Posted April 30, 2014 Just wondering if Coalnotdole has done anything else on his boat?One of the best threads.(Don't want to bump the thread as it gets everybody excited thinking it's an update) mat_the_cat 1
tooSavvy Posted May 3, 2014 Posted May 3, 2014 Directional rotation tyres - asymetric tread pattern. If the tyres on drivers side have a block pattern we call: xxowAnd thus the pattern is mirrored on the passengers side as: woxx Do dealers need to keep 'directional' tyres in pairs, L & R fitting? Is this a stock balance issue, say we got 5 f/nearside scrapped? TS
Asimo Posted May 3, 2014 Posted May 3, 2014 What, like those Vredestein sessanta jobbies?http://www.vredestein.com/car-tyres/summer/ultrac-sessanta/info/ Although they are assymetric in appearance they are directional only. So they look wrong!
gordonbennet Posted May 4, 2014 Posted May 4, 2014 I had some Nokian NRV something or others, now discontinued, basically 2 thick treads lines one side and 1 the other, plus angled siping, directional too. Weirdest thing though that they were assymetric but not sided, so you had 2 thick treads on the LH side of the tyre, but on all wheels, to the naked eye it looked like 2 of the tyres were fitted the wrong way round, thats how they were designed to run. Fortunately Nokian had an explanatory page on their website, which i printed off and kept in the car in case a plod or the MOT man noticed them. tooSavvy 1
dollywobbler Posted May 4, 2014 Posted May 4, 2014 Sorry Willswitchengage but you're just not right about Bosch pumps. Evidence suggests that they're more than happy on veg.As an aside, my opinion was that veg actually lubricates better, which is why engines can sound quieter when eating it. I thought it was the viscocity that was the issue - veg is thicker and the Lucas pump can't handle that.
mat_the_cat Posted May 4, 2014 Posted May 4, 2014 The quietness on veg isn't down to the lubricity, but the fact that the injection timing (when set up for diesel) is actually sightly retarded from optimum when running on veg. I believe you are right about the viscosity being the problem with Lucas pumps though, but there is still the issue of seal compatibility. This would suggest that even the Bosch pump isn't immune to problems. Obviously, a shorter life may not be an issue if you're nowhere near the pump's expected lifespan anyway. My experiences are limited to a few tanks of SVO in the van. Coincidence or not, but I did have to replace a few seals on the pump shortly after using it. With hindsight their failure may have been hastened by the viscosity (I was using a high ratio, in winter - not knowing any better!) rather than the veg oil itself harming the seals. There seems to be plenty of anecdotal evidence that you'll get away with it on the Bosch pump, certainly for a reasonable time. But a better option is obviously one of the older Merc pumps which are lubricated by the engine oil rather than the fuel.
willswitchengage Posted May 4, 2014 Posted May 4, 2014 I'm not saying there're as bad as the Lucas, but running on veg will be detrimental to its lifespan if it's lubricated by its working fluid, which it is. Mat is correct though in saying that this difference is often irrelevant in that the expected lifespan of a the pump still exceeds that of the vehicle itself, so any differences are unlikely to be noticed. Remember also that all of the evidence here is anecdotal, with a fairly poor sample size. If we believed everything the internet told us then UKIP would win the election in a few weeks time... mat_the_cat 1
chaseracer Posted May 4, 2014 Posted May 4, 2014 Anyone know whether Peugeot 306 front seats can be persuaded to fit a 205?
jonathan_dyane Posted May 4, 2014 Posted May 4, 2014 The 306 seats (and more importantly the runners) are I'm afraid quite different.
chaseracer Posted May 4, 2014 Posted May 4, 2014 Cheers, Jon. The search for decent 205 seats continues! EDIT: Will 206 seats fit?
TimothyClaypole Posted May 5, 2014 Posted May 5, 2014 I've never done any "brazing" so what can you do with it? I've a project involving aluminium tubing that's 10mm. I need to put a thread inside to accept a bolt M5. I have some taps/dies but if they idea works that would be a pain the arse to do in quantity. I've looked at some threaded inserts in steel or brass which are knock in type but if they won't grip in the tubing could you knock them in part way then braze around the lip so steel to ali or brass?
Inspector Morose Posted May 5, 2014 Posted May 5, 2014 Yes, but It'd possibly look a bit crap and probably need a fair amount of filing down to make it look presentable. Why not use the knock in inserts then drill and dowel the far end to stop it turning in the tube?
Honey Badger Posted May 5, 2014 Posted May 5, 2014 Good quality adhesive might be another option, especially if it's a thin consistent bond line, even superglue might be enough if it's notgoing to see too much of a load.
DSdriver Posted May 9, 2014 Posted May 9, 2014 Which word in this phrase is correct? Halfords zinc etch primer
Lacquer Peel Posted May 10, 2014 Posted May 10, 2014 I'm not saying there're as bad as the Lucas, but running on veg will be detrimental to its lifespan if it's lubricated by its working fluid, which it is. Mat is correct though in saying that this difference is often irrelevant in that the expected lifespan of a the pump still exceeds that of the vehicle itself, so any differences are unlikely to be noticed. Remember also that all of the evidence here is anecdotal, with a fairly poor sample size. If we believed everything the internet told us then UKIP would win the election in a few weeks time... Yeah, running on veg is definitely not going to improve the life of a fuel pump, but a 20 year untouched injection pump in a high mileage car is going to be marginal anyway.Bosch pumps can be killed if there are fuel starvation issues, when it's 'running' on and being lubricated by air essentially. Problems running on veg are very rarely the injection pump itself though, it's usually anything else in the fuel system, crappy leaky fuel filter housings, perished pipes or a clogged gauze in the fuel tank, made worse when people get the notion they can pour unfiltered lard into the fuel tank. DSdriver 1
explosive-cabbage Posted May 10, 2014 Posted May 10, 2014 Yes. Oh bumsticks. Just another job before Tuesday!
The Moog Posted May 10, 2014 Posted May 10, 2014 The 900 convertible is a bit scrapey going down our farm track to our house. It is currently shod in 205/50/16. Would moving to 195/60/15 improve that? If not how can I raise it slightly ?
KruJoe Posted May 10, 2014 Posted May 10, 2014 Moog: take a walk down the track with a pick-axe, and knock the high bits into the low bits. M'coli 1
KruJoe Posted May 10, 2014 Posted May 10, 2014 Is anyone else feeling fed up of the zany misspelling of thread titles?Enough already. Lacquer Peel, Mr Lobster, tooSavvy and 5 others 8
phil_lihp Posted May 11, 2014 Posted May 11, 2014 I've (perhaps foolishly) offered to service my sister's 2008 Hyundai i10 1.1 in the next couple of months. Apparently it needs new front brake pads and possibly discs, no problem doing that but as it's a newer car than I'm used to working on and it's someone else's car I'm being a little more selective than normal with my parts choices. There seem to be a huge number of different manufacturers available with huge price variances, anyone got any feedback on Mintex, Eicher, APEC, Bosch, Brembo or Pagid? The latter are the only ones I know to be 'premium' brands but no idea what, if any, difference it makes. I just want it to be safe and brake as well as it can. It has ABS if that makes any difference at all.
gordonbennet Posted May 11, 2014 Posted May 11, 2014 Any of the above except Eicher. You won't go wrong with Pagid, usually well priced from Eurocarparts/carparts4less.....E-Parts (Cheltenham) on evilbay supply MIntex at pretty well unbeatable prices.
panhard65 Posted May 11, 2014 Posted May 11, 2014 I used to use mintex all the time but the quality went down the pan. The metal part of the pad was badly made and we had a lot of trouble getting them to fit. I just use unipart now probably as I have an account and it is easier. Euro is cheaper though and seem good quality.
phil_lihp Posted May 11, 2014 Posted May 11, 2014 Thanks chaps, she visited today and I checked the discs, they're pretty much worn out so will definitely need changing. I've been looking on Euro Car Parts for the bits - assuming they supply the right bits first time they should do nicely. Quite shocked how expensive the service parts are on a modern car!
Spiny Norman Posted May 11, 2014 Posted May 11, 2014 What might be the cause of a regular knocking noise from the rear end (of a RWD car) when cornering? Over the last couple of days the Volvo has started to make a noise similar to that made by a FWD car's CV joint when it wears. It's maybe not quite as loud or 'metallic' sounding but it's quite noticeable, especially when cornering with any enthusiasm.It does it equally on both right and left hand bends, and slightly under heavy braking, but not heavy acceleration or steady speed driving.Could it be the beginnings of rear axle failure?
gordonbennet Posted May 11, 2014 Posted May 11, 2014 Obviously you'll check the oil level first, plus the usual bushes shockers prop shaft. etc. Live axle or CV joints at rear? i can't bloody remember, if CV you could repack the joints with CV grease and see if it shuts 'em up, i've got years more out of slightly noisy ones by regreasing. Brakes...loose or knackered pad, sticking or loose caliper, handbrake shoe broken up and floating about. Spiny Norman 1
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