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Posted

Anyone clued up on common rail 2.0 VAG TDIs? Mrs Dick has a 140bhp A3 and it’s started playing up.

First party trick was EML on or couple of weeks with no other symptoms.

Next was limp mode, but only after around 45 minutes of driving, and on a long, steady hill, under load. It takes a real effort to get it into limp mode, put it that way.

 

I’ve plugged it into VeeCeeDeeEss and the codes vaguely point towards turbo vanes, turbo actuator, or boost leak. I don’t get how it takes ages, and hard work to get it into limp mode.

Anyone had similar?

 

Scan results:

“Address 01: Engine (CBA) Labels: 03L-906-022-CBA.clb

Part No SW: 03L 906 022 BQ HW: 03L 906 022 BQ

Component: R4 2,0L EDC G000SG 3066

Revision: 13H01--- Serial number: AUX7Z0H7FN60Y9

Coding: 0000072

Shop #: WSC 00046 412 00000

VCID: 75E679FB1CD291967E-8020

2 Faults Found:

009571 - Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor Circuit

P2563 - 000 - Implausible Signal - MIL ON

Freeze Frame:

Fault Status: 11100000

Fault Priority: 2

Fault Frequency: 16

Reset counter: 255

Mileage: 205316 km

Time Indication: 0

Date: 2018.08.30

Time: 17:43:51

Freeze Frame:

RPM: 897 /min

Speed: 56.0 km/h

Voltage: 14.14 V

Lambda: 74.2 %

Lambda: -11.0 %

Bin. Bits: 00001110

Voltage: 1.900 V

000665 - Boost Pressure Regulation

P0299 - 000 - Control Range Not Reached - Intermittent

Freeze Frame:

Fault Status: 00100000

Fault Priority: 2

Fault Frequency: 2

Reset counter: 255

Mileage: 205933 km

Time Indication: 0

Date: 2018.09.11

Time: 17:50:31

Freeze Frame:

RPM: 2415 /min

Speed: 103.0 km/h

Load: 62.7 %

Absolute Pres.: 2182.8 mbar

Absolute Pres.: 1723.8 mbar

Lambda: 98.6 %

Lambda: 75.8 %

Readiness: 1 1 0 0 0

Posted

On a Volvo HU803 4 disc in dash changer (same as fitted to the roffle S60) is there an easy way to get a 3.5mm input?

Posted

Easy but not particularly cheap way is to use one of the Yatour/Grom boxes in the CD changer socket. Slightly easier and cheaper is to use an FM transmitter, they are much more acceptable than they used to be.

  • Like 1
Posted

My 1992 Rover 820 has a Lucas A127I alternator (Thats A, One, Two, Seven. with an (i) on the end, which I am told stands for intelligent. It refuses to charge my Calcium Battery, as it only puts out exactly 14 volts and I am told that a Calcium Battery needs 14.65 volts in order to charge. Is this correct? If so, is my best option to find an alternator that charges at 14.65 volts or should I get a Lead Acid battery instead?

Yes.

 

Imho it was fine on the 90s so what is wrong with the technology 20 years l8r

Posted

The problem seems to be that battery technology has changed. Lead Acid was very common in the early 90's but very few batteries today are lead acid. My alternator should have no problem charging a Calcium Battery, as it should sense the battery state of charge and adjust accordingly.  It appears not to do that..

Posted

Are you absolutely sure that all the connections to the alternator are 100% clean and all the earths are too, I can't imagine your battery simply won't charge if being supplied with 14v and sufficient amps not 14.5v it sounds more like a wiring issue.

 

Have you tried another battery?

Posted

New Mrs. Bunglebus has arrived with a Pug 307, has what appears to be quite a common problem with the nearside rear light cluster not working at all. Wired in a new earth, and gained some different faults instead;

 

No tail light, and no power at the wire either. Front sidelights, OSR tail and no.plate lights all working.

 

Indicator intermittently flashes through the tail bulbs instead, fiddling with the connector solves this. 

 

Any ideas on the lack of voltage at the tail light? 

 

(As an aside, my meter shows 8.5 volts on all the other connectors, same on the working side. Google suggests this is an anomaly caused by the meter itself)  

Posted

Just getting the Honda Accord ready for the MOT. Needed two tyres on the front as part of the readiness.

Being skint at the moment the local friendly garage have offered to supply and fit two new Gallopro YH18 tyres for £75 plus vat.

Chinese obv. Never heard of them before. Am no stranger to budget tyres and have never had a problem with any of them in the past. I don't drive fast or need anything special.

Anyone any experience with these tyres? If positive then I need some tyres on the other cars.

Posted

Quick question, how do you use one of those snow foam wash thingies. I have the attachment for the jetwash, and a bottle of fluid but no idea how you make it all work. Is it another snake oil thing?

Posted

Quick question, how do you use one of those snow foam wash thingies. I have the attachment for the jetwash, and a bottle of fluid but no idea how you make it all work. Is it another snake oil thing?

On mine you just plug it in then turn the selector on the side for how much foam you want.
Posted

Does anyone know of an early V70 in a scrapyard? I want a few small bits and every one I contact on ebay either doesn’t want to know or wants the pretty much the new price for them.

Posted

DodgeRover, thanks for your post. Yes, I have two good batteries, one only 9 months old, both Calcium technology.  I have spent the last two days researching how alternators work, and sometimes why they dont. You may well be correct that I have a wiring issue. I have so far only tested the charging rate with a fully charged battery. I also meed to check that the frame of the alternator is making a good earth.

 

I really need to see what things are like with a half discharged battery. 14 volts should be enough to start charging the battery. With lights on, the voltage only drops to 13.91 at idle so the alternator is putting out some charge. I plan to fit an on board volt meter to keep an eye on things and  I have also looked into fitting an external regulator. My alternator is a non serviceable unit and contains the regulator which controls the voltage so I would need to remove it or disable it somehow. The ECU also senses voltage and may be the reason I have been plagued with high idle problems. It raises the revs because it senses a low battery state and is trying to put more charge into the battery. The alternator does not appear to have a its own battery sensing wire.

Posted

The alternator appears to be working fine, if the battery is showing 13+v under load at idle.

What other symptoms are you having.

Posted

Wouldn't shenanigans from the rear lights be a moody PCB? Did you measure voltage at the plug or the lamp sockets?

Posted

Has anyone got or have access to a Mercedes Star (or clone) diagnostic thing I could get the use of briefly?

 

I've tried to get the fault read using the snap-on code reader at my local garage but it just gives a generic a/c fault. Apparently only Merc ones can tell me which bit is actually faulty, probably a stepper motor.

Posted

The symptoms I am having are a battery that will barely start the car, after being put on the car 3 weeks ago, fully charged.  I tested it and it showed 12.18 volts. This battery is only 9 months old. I swapped it for another fully charged spare battery. It is always possible that my newest battery has  a fault. This battery came with a 4 year guarantee so I may look into getting it changed.

Posted

Explain to me why a cracked head makes a car run like poo, please.

 

I have a headache and should be able to work this out. PLS U HLEP?

Posted

Explain to me why a cracked head makes a car run like poo, please.

 

I have a headache and should be able to work this out. PLS U HLEP?

It depends on where and how it's cracked, I would suspect combustion gases, compression going where it shouldn't ie into the oil/ water jacket or neighbouring cylinder causing a lack of decent compression/ explosive action on the suspect cylinder.

They can however run absolutely fine with visible cracks just with a thirst for water if pushing along...

Posted

I would say, first and foremost, because pressure that should be exerted on the piston crown to be converted to torque at the crank during the power stroke, is instead leaking away through the crack to the rocker cover or the atmosphere. But also, similar to a vacuum leak in the inlet pipes, on the intake stroke not all of the vacuum is working to suck in fuel/air mixture via the valve, but being able to suck in air through the crack as well. This will be less marked than leaking positive pressure on the power stroke, but even small vacuum leaks can really mess up an engine's ability to run smoothly at idle, or under load, or both.

 

Eta. Add to that modernz' all-controlling ECUs and various sensors - MAP, MAF etc - trying to second guess what changes it should make to fuel mix and ignition timing to run at peak efficiency, the wild card of a vacuum leak will really fuck it up.

 

/pub bore with little or no real world experience

Posted

My V70 D5 is pissing diesel from what appears to be high on the tank (haven't had it on a ramp yet) it's a 2002 with the metal canister type filter.

 

I'm figuring I'm going to have to drop the tank for a looksee; the filter and housing seem dry

 

I know its not been grounded; is there a weak spot on these for leaks?

 

Thats Saturday morning decided

 

I know there's only 5-10 litres left in it but it still appears to be leaking high up

Posted

Looks like a tyre failure on the GSA tonight. Low speed, passenger rear.

 

Spare has now been fitted by my brother (he loved the lack of requirement for a jack).

 

He was not keen on trying this

 

I'm awaiting info when light, and will need to source tyres.

 

I believe they are 145r14, originally Michelins. Can still get the xzx for £120 a corner, but appear to be old stock..

 

Anyone any suggestions for reasonably priced alternatives that may have been made this century?

Posted

I should check the dates on mine c.2012 I bought 3 Michelins from Longstone.

 

Wouldn't have thought tyres at full retail would be out of code.

Posted

Looks like a tyre failure on the GSA tonight. Low speed, passenger rear.

 

Spare has now been fitted by my brother (he loved the lack of requirement for a jack).

 

He was not keen on trying this

https://youtu.be/4HK2nTRvm_s

 

I'm awaiting info when light, and will need to source tyres.

 

I believe they are 145r14, originally Michelins. Can still get the xzx for £120 a corner, but appear to be old stock..

 

Anyone any suggestions for reasonably priced alternatives that may have been made this century?

145 r14 is the size that the Minor should have and it is usually replaced by a 155. The Minor specialists supply the 155 £40ish per corner.

Posted

145 r14 is the size that the Minor should have and it is usually replaced by a 155. The Minor specialists supply the 155 £40ish per corner.

Aye, but the GS has 15" rims ;)

Posted

145 r14 is the size that the Minor should have and it is usually replaced by a 155. The Minor specialists supply the 155 £40ish per corner.

As Eddie Honda says, I may haz dun a typo and need 145r15..

 

Confirmation expected today if my bro can get a picture..

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