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34,717 · September 11, 2018

And another question.

The Toyota has 3 keys - 2 black and one pale grey. Is the grey one a "master" key of some description?

As far as I can remember yes it is. Same as a red key on a Ford I think.

Keep it safe.

14,449 · September 11, 2018

As far as I can remember yes it is. Same as a red key on a Ford I think.

Keep it safe.

Looks like Madam will have my key to it then. The wife & stepdaughter misplace their keys more so often...

4,906 · September 11, 2018

Youll probably know but check to see if you can use that key to start the car.

4,906 · September 11, 2018

If I couldn't get the lowest side packed out by either slotting a small screw driver up behind it or some thing similar then I'd be considering taking it off to drop it down for better access to the terminal. Make sure the battery is disconnected!

24,442 · September 11, 2018

Ref the polo . Obd readers only read engine related stuff not pas . Check the battery , charge rate and the strip fuses / leads near the battery ( strip fuse for epas can crack . Otherwise it’s a proper plug in job . Usually the epas unit under the lh headlamp all corroded and wet tho

14,449 · September 11, 2018

Youll probably know but check to see if you can use that key to start the car.

Yeah it starts the car. Probably need it if there's any major work done to the engine in the future. I don't think it has an immobiliser, but it might do.

If I couldn't get the lowest side packed out by either slotting a small screw driver up behind it or some thing similar then I'd be considering taking it off to drop it down for better access to the terminal. Make sure the battery is disconnected!

Looks like that's the only way I can do it then. I didn't want to go down that route as it means removing half the bleeding crap in the engine bay (Air filter, MAF sensor, some pipework) then I'll have to borrow some star drive sockets from a bloke at work or my nephew to get the thing off.

Unless ultra-thin nut splitters are available? I don't think I can get the back cover off the alternator while it's in situ, which would make getting to things a hell of a lot easier, possibly give me the room to get a normal size nut splitter on the terminal.

September 11, 2018

Lack of space around the terminal and fat hands prevent decent space. Not helped with various wiring looms and pipes getting in the way. The nut does start catching then it slips.

As you can probably see in the pic the internal thread of the nut is completely collapsed.

IMG_6398.JPG

Dremel & try to slice the side off the nut?

I'd probably just take it off to be safe though.

27,997 · September 11, 2018

Is this possible with the use of a wire from my phone to the tv? And if so which wire?

So I have an iphone 5. I also have two standard lcd tele’s. Neither of these are smart tv’s. How would I go about getting youtube from my phone to play on the tv?

Chromecast, which will turn your TV into a Smart TV, and then just stream wirelessly. They're about £30 and they work far, far better than any rubbish "Android TV" box (which are never actually Android TV, but just Android running on a shit old little computer rammed with malware)

2,718 · September 12, 2018

Thanks for the above responses...

Another wuestion not relating to the above.....what would be the correct grade of oil for my 2007 Fiesta 1.6 TDCi (which I am lead to believe is the 1.6 HDi engine).... I know these engines are quite fussy when it comes to oil and throw turbos for a pastime so just wondering what the correct grade is....

From memory I seem to think it is 0w30 or 0w40....could someone please confirm?

Thanks,

James

14,449 · September 12, 2018

Wingz - some DVD and Bluray players have an Apple compatible screen mirroring mode (AirPlay) if they’re connected to your wifi.

6,824 · September 12, 2018

Nut splitter?

I did that the other week, stood on the garden rake.

1,022 · September 12, 2018

I have a starter relay. I think it is kaput. Its for a bike

With 12v on one terminal, other terminal to a 12v motor, other motor terminal to ground. if I apply 12v to the trigger wire I am expecting it to click and current to flow to the motor and it to turn. alas, it does not. it does turn if I bridge the two solenoid terminals.

Is this indicative of it being broken?

1,701 · September 12, 2018

I have a starter relay. I think it is kaput. Its for a bike

With 12v on one terminal, other terminal to a 12v motor, other motor terminal to ground. if I apply 12v to the trigger wire I am expecting it to click and current to flow to the motor and it to turn. alas, it does not. it does turn if I bridge the two solenoid terminals.

Is this indicative of it being broken?

sounds about right....could use a length of wire with a spade crimped on each end to bridge the wiring to see if it works.

24,442 · September 12, 2018

You can power the exciter terminals of most relays with a 9v pp3 battery if it helps

September 12, 2018

I have a starter relay. I think it is kaput. Its for a bike

With 12v on one terminal, other terminal to a 12v motor, other motor terminal to ground. if I apply 12v to the trigger wire I am expecting it to click and current to flow to the motor and it to turn. alas, it does not. it does turn if I bridge the two solenoid terminals.

Is this indicative of it being broken?

Aye, provided the fourth terminal is earthed so the trigger circuit can complete.

1,022 · September 12, 2018

I don't think there is a forth terminal - the housing sits in a rubber shell and there is just battery to terminal 1, terminal 2 to starter and starter switch (via safety relay) to trigger. I'd assumed the trigger earths through the starter connection?

Even with the casing earthed it doesn't fire so i'm going to say its deaded and get a replacement.

cheers for confirming logic though!

September 12, 2018

Oh three terminal relays, voodoo!

(I'd forgot about them)

23,318 · September 12, 2018

Lack of space around the terminal and fat hands prevent decent space. Not helped with various wiring looms and pipes getting in the way. The nut does start catching then it slips.

As you can probably see in the pic the internal thread of the nut is completely collapsed.

IMG_6398.JPG

Are you trying to remove the lead or to tighten up on the terminal?

If the latter, another nut should do, the stripped nut isn't going to stop new nut clamping the terminal.

Anyway, it should be a brass nut so quite weak, mole grips may crush it enough to wind it off, or even split it.

12,650 · September 13, 2018

Thanks for the above responses...

Another wuestion not relating to the above.....what would be the correct grade of oil for my 2007 Fiesta 1.6 TDCi (which I am lead to believe is the 1.6 HDi engine).... I know these engines are quite fussy when it comes to oil and throw turbos for a pastime so just wondering what the correct grade is....

From memory I seem to think it is 0w30 or 0w40....could someone please confirm?

Thanks,

James

It's a 5w30.The best oil for this engine is Total Ineo ECS.That's the one Total developed with PSA for this engine.

2,718 · September 13, 2018

^^^ Excellent - thank you artdjones

14,449 · September 13, 2018

Are you trying to remove the lead or to tighten up on the terminal?

If the latter, another nut should do, the stripped nut isn't going to stop new nut clamping the terminal.

Anyway, it should be a brass nut so quite weak, mole grips may crush it enough to wind it off, or even split it.

Trying to wind it off as the internal thread has collapsed. It has jammed on the terminal leaving the lead terminal loose. Got a feeling this was the initial poor charging problem in the first place, after I put the alternator on in December last year the car went to a garage to have other jobs done which involved removing the alternator from the car. Just wondering if garage has overtightened it, as I only did it up finger tight then about 1/8turn with the ratchet.

1,978 · September 13, 2018

Would anyone here like to fix and put back on the road an old Fiat/Seat I've hidden away?

Obviously I would transport it to your location and pay for your time, parts and all.

2,718 · September 13, 2018

Would anyone here like to fix and put back on the road an old Fiat/Seat I've hidden away?

Obviously I would transport it to your location and pay for your time, parts and all.

What is required to get it back on the road?

1,978 · September 13, 2018

What is required to get it back on the road?

http://autoshite.com/topic/28095-project-codename-f133-tiny-car-tiny-updates

5,552 · September 13, 2018

Trying to wind it off as the internal thread has collapsed. It has jammed on the terminal leaving the lead terminal loose. Got a feeling this was the initial poor charging problem in the first place, after I put the alternator on in December last year the car went to a garage to have other jobs done which involved removing the alternator from the car. Just wondering if garage has overtightened it, as I only did it up finger tight then about 1/8turn with the ratchet.

I've had success with similar nuts on starter motors by drilling through the nut parallel with the bolt using a 2 or 3mm drill then splitting with a cold chisel so it stretches the nut enough to wind off.

Couple of thick washers before the nut when you put it back together will make sure it has some thread to tighten up on.

Dave

14,449 · September 13, 2018

I've had success with similar nuts on starter motors by drilling through the nut parallel with the bolt using a 2 or 3mm drill then splitting with a cold chisel so it stretches the nut enough to wind off.

Couple of thick washers before the nut when you put it back together will make sure it has some thread to tighten up on.

Dave

To do that Dave I have to remove the Alternator, which is a ball-ache I could do without. Need to purloin a Torx socket for that, and remove most of the contents of the engine bay.

What's made things worse (see grumpy thread) is the terminal thread is gubbed as well, so in the long run that would need to come off and be replaced as well. As I don't have long term plans for the Saab now I just want it to see me through the winter, so going to do a quality* repair to tide it over.

September 13, 2018

To do that Dave I have to remove the Alternator, which is a ball-ache I could do without. Need to purloin a Torx socket for that, and remove most of the contents of the engine bay.

What's made things worse (see grumpy thread) is the terminal thread is gubbed as well, so in the long run that would need to come off and be replaced as well. As I don't have long term plans for the Saab now I just want it to see me through the winter, so going to do a quality* repair to tide it over.

As Asimo says above, just leave the stripped nut on there and put another nut on.

14,449 · September 13, 2018

As Asimo says above, just leave the stripped nut on there and put another nut on.

Tried, won't clamp up tight enough.

7,585 · September 13, 2018

Tried, won't clamp up tight enough.

Weld the nut on

6,586 · September 13, 2018

I agree. That should give you a very very good chance of unsticking it.

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