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30 minutes ago, Fumbler said:

Bought a Lucas 'reconditioned' replacement alternator for the BX along with other goodies. Is this a good idea? YES.... nope, probably not. The good news is that it was the cheapest I could find so I'm expecting it to blow the regulator upas soon as the field energises.

This is the alternator I had to have replaced on the A8 on Friday. It's a lucas and looks very new.

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So the MX-5 is mine. I checked the sill edges behind the plastic (not removing) and all seems nice, could still be hiding things. Went to check the XJ6 and take new pics, realised I could park in a place to make swapping the washer pump easier.

Shame the undertrays are so spendy secondhand. It’s the biggest letdown on the whole car 😕

More pics in the FS thread - MX-5 to join the collective when I’ve got more light…

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1 hour ago, vulgalour said:

The Giffer Approved Repair method on the Jag is some mishappen wood screws and since it's plastic, it's quite easy to do.  Nobody* would blame you for doing that, tens of pensioners can't be wrong!

I would rather shit in my hands and clap than put wood screws into a perfectly good bumper. Unfortunately there are chunks of undertray and inner arch missing, replacing the actual fixings or even plastic welding cracks would be okay.

Cable ties would help if there was anything to cable tie to!

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On 12/11/2021 at 6:29 PM, reb said:

I got a timely reminder not to drive like a twat this evening. Was showing off the 850 and lost traction in the wet on a long sweeping bend. I caught* it at least.

*I don't think I had any input really, I think the car just rescued itself. Either that or I'm better at regaining control than I thought.

😭

Careful young man 🙉😝

Edit:- Get x4 Michelin tyres on her, and it'll become even better 👍

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I took advantage of the unusually clement weather this weekend to get a few bits done on the fleet.

First up was the rear wheel bearing on the 121.  This actually turned out to be a far easier job than I'd expected - there are two bearings, inner and outer, and it was the outer (the easiest one to replace) that had gone - I thought I'd try just changing the outer first before attacking the inner, took the car for a drive round the block and the whining was gone.  The only problem is that Wilco have sold me a RH bearing kit labelled as LH - the bearings themselves are the same but the RH dollywobbler hub nut has a reverse thread so doesn't fit.  I've refitted the old hub nut for now but that's not a long term solution as the bit that is staked in to hold the nut in place on the shaft is pretty knackered, and the nut probably won't hold on its own long term as the outer bearing is a taper bearing so the nut can't be done up very tight.

I also changed the thermostat - the bottom bolt was a bit awkward to get to and I had to unbolt a couple of clips and pull another pipe out of the way, but nothing too drastic.  The new 'stat was rather bigger than the one that was in there, which was odd.  Put everything back together and the engine is definitely running warmer - it's still only 1/4 of the way up the temp gauge but that may be partly because it's an 82° stat where the old one was 88°.  The heater was blowing out hotter to start with too - that gave up after a while but I think the system probably needs bleeding now.

Next job was to have a crack at the wipers on the Scénic.  I got the wiper arms off OK although the passenger side was a bit of a faff.  The scuttle panels came out with no bother and the multiplugs pulled off both motors easily.  The driver's side had a bit of corrosion and mank in a couple of the terminals, so I scraped the female terminals on the plug with a needle and ran a bit of sandpaper over the male terminals on the motor, and so far it seems to have done the trick.  I noticed that the driver's side motor has already been replaced (with a secondhand unit) so that may still need doing in the long term - there's a chap in Poland selling new motors for only about £50 more than unknown scrapyard motors are going for, so that might be the way to go if I keep the car that long.

I also bought this:

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It's a 2-litre dCI automatic, and it's quite a posh one - climate, sat nav, electric seats etc.  I got it cheap because it's a bit scruffy in places and it's also in limp mode due to a pipe having come off the DPF pressure sensor.  A new sensor is not a lot of money but a bit of a faff to get to - it'll need doing though as at the moment the car is painfully slow and drinking diesel like it's going out of fashion.

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After a week or two of scarcely a dribble of water getting in the Volvo, even after power washing  the passenger side footwell has gotten all soggy again. Knew straight away as when I got in the car everything felt damp and the screen was steamed up.

Only difference is the car has been parked facing downhill the last few days, looks to be coming in down the A pillar.

While leaning over from the driver's seat I rested my bodyweight on the floor and went through it. Smashing.

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9 hours ago, captain_70s said:

After a week or two of scarcely a dribble of water getting in the Volvo, even after power washing  the passenger side footwell has gotten all soggy again. Knew straight away as when I got in the car everything felt damp and the screen was steamed up.

Only difference is the car has been parked facing downhill the last few days, looks to be coming in down the A pillar.

While leaning over from the driver's seat I rested my bodyweight on the floor and went through it. Smashing.

Parking it uphill from now on may fix some of those issues 🤔

I remember sheltering in my xm during a monsoon downpour and realising where the water leak was coming in (blocked sunroof drains) as a flood ran out the back of the corner of the dashboard 😂 I then cleared those and the water chose to run towards and through the sunroof motor and out the front roof lights and all over the shifter and keypad which was alot more of a pain than just wetvaccing the floors every week or so 😡 I just tigersealed the bastard in the end

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Shatis passed its MoT.  Had the rear brakes done before the test as the NS pads were very low.  Treated it to new pads, discs and calipers.  Front discs were an advisory, but I'll wait a few months for those.  Glad that's sorted before Christmas.

Reno heritage fleet.

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I shan't tempt fate by saying too much, but I think the Espace is fairly sorted now and able to share duties with the VS.  Since I tuned it to pass the MoT it has a tendency to cut out until fully warm, so that needs a further tweak.

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20 minutes ago, Leyland Worldmaster said:

A couple of years ago, I advised my friend to change the Control Arms on his 9N Polo.

These are hollow steel components that like to rust for fun. 

Today I got a message confirming that one had failed. 

Please do check if you have one or know anyone who does. 

 

I have a new 9N polo / 6L Ibiza control arm and subframe console with bushes sitting in my shed if anyone finds themselves in need of a quick repair.

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12 hours ago, captain_70s said:

Fucking Volvo's speedo has died.

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If you haven't already bridged it, worth checking the Speedo drive plug on the back of the diff. The plugs are really brittle now and basically fall off with a snide look. Also, it's a prime location for the pins to be bright green with corrosion.

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Off on a collection mission tonight, vehicle choice isn't much of a secret.  Its only 15 miles or so away so there will be no poo count (unless I'm incredibly unlucky).

The biggest issue will be to not let the Mrs nick it off me. 

Something will be for sale in the New Year if/once it has bedded into the fleet, 5 cars is too many.

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1 minute ago, Split_Pin said:

Off on a collection mission tonight, vehicle choice isn't much of a secret.  Its only 15 miles or so away so there will be no poo count (unless I'm incredibly unlucky).

The biggest issue will be to not let the Mrs nick it off me. 

Something will be for sale in the New Year if/once it has bedded into the fleet, 5 cars is too many.

I was going to ask if you needed a lift! Seems you're sorted though. Chodspeed.

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