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Posted

Just tap them round with a small chisel or old screwdriver?

Fair point...might work with one, the other one some muppet (not me) has replaced with a countersunk head.

Posted

Yes, I think I’ll have to do the cutting down. Maybe even weld on a handle. I tried with a regular bit and spanner and got nowhere - plus they’re some stupid spanner size like 6.5mm which I don’t have. You can get ‘confined space’ ratchet drivers but this makes their idea of confined space look like the Etosha plain.

 

Nothing like having to fabricate your own bloody tools to do a pissy little job, is there? Grump.

Are these any use?

post-20071-0-62517400-1517783861_thumb.jpg

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bahco-2058S26-Ratchet-Socket-26-Piece/dp/B000Y8TIMY

 

I have a cheapy Titan set I got from Screwfix. Its been a useful get out of jail free card a couple of times. Appears they no longer do it.

Posted

plus they’re some stupid spanner size like 6.5mm which I don’t have.

 

6.35mm = 1/4"

Posted

I've been stripping down and cleaning the carbs of the old GS650.

 

Mucky

post-5582-0-84318300-1517786669_thumb.jpg

 

Less mucky and reassembled

 

post-5582-0-36595300-1517786750_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

I finally got around to doing the front disc and pad replacement I’d promised to do on daughter’s Astra. Was a bloody horrible job from start to finish. This is the first time I’ve had to work on this pile of shite and it fought me every inch of the way starting with the totally dry wheel bolts that had been air-hammered up solid. My big impact wrench had no effect and I managed to bend one of my bar wrenches and extension getting them out. The nasty little 17mm head bolts wedged solid in my impact socket so I had to drift each one out. Each one only let go with a massive ‘BANG’ as I practically lifted the car off the jack.

 

Everything was rusted solid. Getting the discs off the hub palms took extreme violence, had to drain gallons of fluid from the MC reservoir to accommodate the massive wind-back distance needed on these totally shagged brakes.

 

I used a bit of copper-slip on a cleaned-up hub and on on the wheel bolts so I could torque them up. Hateful bloody Astra....post-21508-0-02521400-1517786704_thumb.jpeg

post-21508-0-89081800-1517786747_thumb.jpeg

 

Squirrel2

Posted

Would a set of these work Mr Skizzer?

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/F-S-NEW-Anex-6102-T-Slim-Offset-Screwdriver-3-set-from-JAPAN-/112718536472

 

Pretty sure I've seen them for sale on Amazon a bit cheaper.

Oh yes, that’s the, er, badger. Perfect, thanks!

 

post-4091-0-44908100-1517809284_thumb.png

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anex-6102T-Profile-Driver-Handle/dp/B0016VAIBI

  • Like 4
Posted

Well I managed to complete in another bucket list enduro . The snowrun near Llandovery , Wales . 28 mile lap of the forest with gnarly ruts and roots everywhere . My class had to do 3 laps and I fecking did it ! Buzzing now .

Not so buzzing about unloading the van and washing the bike mind

Posted

The ex-HMC £160 Mondeo rolled past 200,000 miles on the way to work today.

 

100_5421.JPG

 

The trip meter is reset each time it needs oil, it does like a drink. Max of 300 miles between top ups to be on the safe side and normally takes around 0.75 pint. It's not particularly smoky but you do get the smell of burning oil after a run when you pull up at the lights.

 

The annoying kocking from the exhaust has stopped since I went over a speed bump in the car park at work and it is still surprisingly quiet. It did damage the plastic at the end of the rear bumper trim when it came off so I've had to cable tie the trim to stop it coming loose all the time.

 

100_5422.JPG

 

Spent £12 on it so far, new aerial and rear wiper blade and coming up to 2500 miles since I bought it, bargain.

Mine used to knock on the bumps, it was the exhaust knocking against the subframe. Tied an old pair of pants round the subframe where it banged against. Problem solved!

Posted

And it continues! Clio 172 troubles continue..

 

Defrosting the car today, all ok.

 

Start driving, heater blower stops working, dash lights all flash and clock resets.

 

Car drives ok. Blowers still fucked.

 

Burd has just got it home, now it won't start.

 

Anyone any idea?

 

So far I have

 

Earths

battery failing

Alternator failing

Posted

Loose battery connections on a car from 320T?

 

Never. :D

  • Like 3
Posted

Think the starter motor pin has shat itself on the Octavia.

 

Got in an hour ago to go to work, churned over once, missed, horrible graunch, now it's just turning over and not catching.

 

RAC awaited to recover to my local garage, however this might be the end for the Octy if it's a miserable bastard of a job to do.

Posted

Well I managed to complete in another bucket list enduro . The snowrun near Llandovery , Wales . 28 mile lap of the forest with gnarly ruts and roots everywhere . My class had to do 3 laps and I fecking did it ! Buzzing now .

Not so buzzing about unloading the van and washing the bike mind

 

Not sure if you're lucky or unlucky, but tomorrow sounds like it will actually be pretty snowy...

 

I'm meant to be driving to Bridgnorth, but I may abort that plan if the white stuff is down, after my last experience of trying to drive through Shropshire in snow (an hour stuck in Shrewsbury because people cannot drive).

  • Like 1
Posted

Battery connection fallen off or loose?

The battery connections were checked a week ago - both tight.

Posted

Think the starter motor pin has shat itself on the Octavia.

 

Got in an hour ago to go to work, churned over once, missed, horrible graunch, now it's just turning over and not catching.

 

RAC awaited to recover to my local garage, however this might be the end for the Octy if it's a miserable bastard of a job to do.

 

Keep trying, it will eventually engage... TADTS !

Posted

Battery dying, jump pack dying. RAC included with my bank, so time for a callout.

Posted

Battery dying, jump pack dying. RAC included with my bank, so time for a callout.

 

I had that with the 2CV yesterday, but I just got the starting handle out. Battery is very suspicious on the Honda at the moment, but alas it doesn't have a starting handle.

Posted

Stuck RAC chaps decent jump pack on it, got a big clunk from the starter, churned a bit, lots of petrol, and eventually staggered into life.

 

New battery time!

Posted

I'm going to have to invest in a couple of batteries I think.  I have a spare battery which I've been using to jump the 205, but it's slightly too big to fit in the battery tray so I have to carry it and a set of jump leads in the boot, which is a pain. 

 

The Audi's battery is shite but hasn't let me down yet, but the Rover 45 definitely needs a new one - if left overnight it then doesn't have enough charge to start the car from cold.  Admittedly it's a twat to start from cold due to the glow plugs being shagged, but it's not cranking the engine over fast enough to start it anyway.  The spare battery I've been using in the Pug isn't man enough to start the Rover either.  I should have kept the battery off the Mondeo when I weighed it in.

Posted

I think the clutch did a little slip last night on the gooner...

 

Granted I was heavily laden, and had to get from a standstill to 60+ onto the 2 lane section of the a1 on 400 yards of sliproad to avoid being wiped out by an arctic but it defiantly slipped in 3rd...

 

Will keep an eye on that

Posted

Bastarding - flat-fucking-sodding-tyre-locking-wheelnut-no-bloody-key-for-it

shenanigans......... when I get back tonight. I may work* late

Posted

Temporary ARB link pin has been cobbled together out of threaded rod, bushes, washers, nuts and bolts.

ECP cancelled my order for them - fortunately I’ve ordered some on Rock Auto as that temporary fix would end up being permanent and replicated on the drive side otherwise.

post-17391-0-35255900-1517840208_thumb.jpeg

Posted

Temporary ARB link pin has been cobbled together out of threaded rod, bushes, washers, nuts and bolts.

ECP cancelled my order for them - fortunately I’ve ordered some on Rock Auto as that temporary fix would end up being permanent and replicated on the drive side otherwise.

 

Ingenious.

Posted

I've driven with no ARB link fitted at all on the driver's side. It didn't make much difference.

Posted

It does on some cars, I'm desperately trying to remember which one of mine had a distressing habit of cocking a wheel up when the roll bar was disconnected. Chevette or Mk2 cav maybe?

Posted

More likely to lift a wheel with the anti-roll bar fitted surely?

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